Posts by Astrolite

Attention Vendors. Please email robert@rabtech.com any instruction manuals you may have for your products. They will be added to the FILEBASE tab for members to access.

    This thread has been an interesting read. I'm currently in the market for a lightweight camper and thought it would be nice if I could also use it behind the SS as well as my regular tow vehicle. @RichArlt I know that this trailer slightly exceeds your recommendations but I also assume from your above post that the numbers you are quoting must have some sort of built in safety factor. I also know that from a liability standpoint you may not want to go this far out on a limb, but do you think it's doable?


    Trailer Dry Weight 1262 lbs.
    Tongue Weight 128 lbs.
    Electric Brakes are an option on this trailer.


    I'm trying to find someone who's taken an SS on the ferry. I'm worried about ground clearance getting up and down the loading ramp.

    The first SS I ever saw was at the Millersburg Ferry on the Susquehanna River here in PA. We were on a motorcycle ride with friends and waiting to cross the river. The SS went with us across the river and his front splitter did scrape as they loaded it. He got it on and off without any apparent damage. Don't think I would try it with mine, at least on that ferry. I would think it would depend on the ferry operation some probably have a more level set up, Millersburg does not.

    These are the ones from SlingMods. Not cheap, for sure, but a heck of a lot less than going the Big Brake kit route! You can do a google search for MGP Brake Caliper Covers, they make them for a lot of vehicles, priced about the same as these for most makes.

    For those of you who aren't happy with the embossed and painted on bolt heads of the MGP Brake Caliper Covers or have shied away from them because of it, here is a simple mod that improves their looks dramatically.


    Stock Cover


    I simply center punched the embossed area and drilled it out with a 1/4" drill bit, dressed up the backside with a file and then used JB Weld to epoxy some Stainless Cap Head screws in place. I specifically used M6 x 8mm Low Profile cap head screws, but I'm sure you could use an imperial size as well. There is plenty of clearance front and back. I like the low profile heads on the cap screws because, (1) it allows additional clearance between the screw head and the wheel and (2) it gives the illusion that the bolt is countersunk into the caliper. The 8mm length was the shortest I could find, you just want to make sure there are enough threads protruding through the backside to allow the JB Weld to key into the threads for a better grip. When applying the JB Weld I first put a small bead under the head of the bolt and let that set up. I did this to get the bolt positioned correctly and to hold it in place when I flipped them over to epoxy the backside. I then applied a generous fillet of JB Weld on the back making sure to work it into the threads and against the metal backing.



    I think the finished product looks much better than the stock version. Only time will tell how well the JB Weld holds up in this environment, but even if I have to replace a bolt every now and then I think it was well worth the effort.



    I'm installing a set of the drilled rotors from Cycle Springs. Don't see any torque specs for the brake calipers on the Master Torque List that was published some time ago on the forum. Tried a search with no luck. Does anyone know what they are supposed to be torqued to? I'm surprised that's not included on the torque list as it's something that gets removed and replaced quite often.


    Second question, I read, somewhere on the forum, that the rear caliper pistons rotate into and out of the caliper rather than just pushing in and out. How do I do that, if I need more pad clearance, when I go to put the rear caliper back on?


    Thanks in advance!

    @Astrolite Where are you measuring it ? From what I have read a "block tap" will produce a significantly higher reading than a "head tap." And it's not uncommomn to see a cold block tap reading of 80 psi. with the pressure dropping as it comes up to normal operating temperature. According to Bill at Hahn Racecraft a good rule of thumb is 10psi for every 1,000 rpm's. Hope this helps. :thumbup:

    This picture probably shows it the best. It's the braided line coming out from under the "1320" emblem, tapped into the block behind there.


    Looking to add some gauges to my SS. For the oil pressure I have a choice between 0-80 psi and 0-100 psi. Can anyone, with a gauge, tell me if the 0-80 psi would be adequate?


    Thanks and Merry Christmas/Happy Holidays

    Got my recall notice in the mail today. What's weird is that the recalls on the mailed notice and the recalls listed at On-Road Product Safety Recalls - Search by VIN don't seem to match.


    The mailed notice says:

    • Recall T-16-03 Engine Fuel Line. Replace the engine fuel line, and inspect retention clips to reduce the risk of interference,
    • Recall T-16-06 Swingarm. Inspect, repair or replace the swingarm to reduce the risk of structural damage.

    The website says:

    • Recall T-16-03-A. Fuel line replace clip inspect (seems to be the same description as above, just different number),
    • Recall T-16-06-EB. Swingarm replacement w/nuts.

    I think someone on this thread said the nut replacement was only for the 2015 models, but mine is a 2016. Anyone know what the letters, at the end of the recall number, verses no letters signify?

    Correct, the red material on the sides is a smooth panel, but I do not recall what the SLR seats from the factory is in that area. It could be a different material, but it does dress it up having the red on the sides vs the black on the factory SLR seat. And you're also correct that these do not have the colored piping that the SLR seats do

    This is the picture of @Ice9812 black Velocity seats. If you look closely it appears that in that area, that is red on your seats, they have used a textured material like on the SLR seats. Maybe @Ice9812 can confirm that. I prefer the textured material over the smooth and would probably go with a set of black if I could confirm the textured material.


    One other question, do the velocity seats come with new seat mounts or do you use the original stock mounts?

    @funinthesun great review on the new Velocity seats! I sat in a new SLR at my local dealer and thought the seats looked better and felt better than the original stock seats. It also seemed to me that it was easier to get in and out of the SS with the new seats. Maybe you and @Port Saint Sling can answer a question for me. It appears that, with the Velocity seats, the red portion is a different material than what is used in the SLR seats. The SLR seats have a textured material in that area and the Velocity seats have a smooth, glossy, material. It also looks like the Velocity seats don't have the colored piping of the SLR seats. Are these assumptions of mine correct?

    Was at the dealer Thursday and they had a 2017 SLR in the showroom. The new seats look to be a nice improvement. I think they look nicer than the original seats. Sat in them, seemed very comfortable, easy to get in and out of and bigger side wings to hold you in place while cornering. Then I noticed they are selling, a very similar version, as an accessory for $699 a pair and I believe that even includes new mounting hardware. Called Velocity seats.


    That's a $600 savings over the PRP seats! Just wondering if anyone has any feedback on the new seats.

    Got an e-mail notice that Slingmods has the Hawk HT-10 brake pads available for pre-order. These appear to have been produced as a direct fit on the the SS, no more cutting and fitting to make the Hawk fit.


    I know everyone wanted a more aggressive brake pad for the SS. My question is this, why did Hawk select a "race only" compound for the SS? Everything I read on the internet about this compound says it is not suitable for the street. Some even suggest that if you are going to drive your vehicle to the track, wait util you get to the track to put these on. One person said it was OK to use them to drive to the track, just don't use your brakes while driving there, downshift to slow down instead! Wouldn't it have been better to use a compound that was a little less track oriented?

    Recently completed a seven day, 2250 mile south-eastern US trip with my wife and some biker friends. Traveled through eight states, did the full length of Skyline Drive and the Blue Ridge Parkway. Road the Tail of the Dragon, Diamondback, Moonshiner 28 and countless miles of other beautiful and challenging roads. It was an experience of a lifetime. Got to say the SS handled excellently, I was able to push those Honda Goldwings well beyond their capabilities. Here are a few of the Slingshot related pictures we took.