Coming in very late on this thread, but I too have been thinking about a forward swept wing design. I'm not going to go back and read the previous 11 pages of banter, but if you're taking a poll you can add me to the "like it" side. Also, I really like the idea of it melding with the side wing panels, as shown in @mniron's teaser image (post #2). 
Posts by Gadgeteer
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White Pearl (or any other pearl paint) has tiny specks of mica (or something like it) that catches the light to give it that distinctive sparkle. The White Pearl may also have a slight color tint added for a warmer tone. The White Lightning on the Blue Fire LE is just a basic gloss, not a pearl, and more of a pure white. I haven't seen the Monument White but if I had to guess, it's probably tinted with a little gray or tan/brown to give it a warmer, earthier tone.
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One issue that has not yet been addressed is the need for relays/transistors to handle the high amp switching. While LEDs are not high amp devices, the headlights are on high amp circuits. If you or another owner (if you sold/traded your SS at some point) were to switch back to Halogens or HIDs, the switch would get fried (or worse). The safest option is to run the switches to an array of relays or transistors (solid-state relays) and let them handle the high amp switching. Since both draw very little power, you could power them all off a single ignition/acc-switched circuit (I tapped the headlight circuit for my relays), so there would be less concern of forgetting to manually turn off your lights.
Standard automotive relays are bulky, but easier to find locally and easier to replace when they fail. PCB-mount micro replays are pretty small, but for all that, you might as well go the distance and use transistors for their size (the head of a pencil eraser) and reliability (no moving parts). HIgh amp transistors are a bit bigger, but still smaller than PCB-mount relays and more reliable. Of course, either of those will require a PCB (printed circuit board) with an enclosure.
As for assembly of the circuit board, if someone with better soldering skills doesn't volunteer, I can help you out. I've done a little work with PCBs but the results are not very pretty. In fact, that describes most of my electrical work. Fugly, but functional.
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I have the LEDs on all 6 headlights, no switches or additional controls, and the 6 halos are wired through the aux fuse box, with a remote, no switches.
The fog light circuit is already in use, with its own independent switch, and will not be part of this equation.
My goal, if possible, is to have preset combos of lights/halos illuminated together.
Now that I look at this, I wonder if @Roy658 's idea isn't just better....just put each of the 6 pairs (A, B, C, 1, 2, 3) from the diagram above on their own single throw switch, so I can literally do what I want in a given OCD mood.
The thing I like about the rotary switch idea is that it takes up way less real estate. What do you guys think?
Agreed, using independent switches is probably the way to go. The illuminated push buttons would look the best (IMHO) and I've noted the ideal locations (also IMHO) in the attached pic. If you moved the black function switch up or down a bit, fitting 2 horizontal rows of three buttons should fit nicely, like this...
[ A B C ]
[ 1 2 3 ]
[ F ]If you're really concerned about space, you could use smaller diameter buttons or mini/micro toggle or rocker switches. They may be harder to find, but I've had a lot of luck with Mouser Electronics and their prices are reasonable. The best part; usually no minimum quantities, so you can get exactly what you need, and they have quantity discounts for larger buys.
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I have to speed up to make you smaller in my mirror!
You might have to speed up a lot. If memory serves, @FunCycle is not easily shaken once he's on your tail.
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@Gadgeteer I cannot see how a battery can be considered a mod that voids warranty.
I agree, changing the battery should not be an issue, but a larger battery can introduce potential problems. Here's an article I found that backs that up. While the actual failure may not be caused by the battery, having a larger battery can make a problem worse.Also, as @Orangeman noted, extended warranties are not the same as original warranties. They are more like insurance policies and are subject to the rights reserved by the underwriter which is the factory, in this case. If you have your extended warranty through a 3rd party (my first SS extended warranty was through RPMOne, not Polaris) then they hold the cards. Either way, your dealer is your best advocate for justifying the validity of a warranty claim. The underwriter can only make assumptions based on what information is provided to them by your dealer. If your dealer fails to provide enough proof to validate your claim, the factory isn't likely to take your word over the word of their certified dealer technician.
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It's probably worth repeating - the spiking is only an issue with HIDs because of the excess ignition triggering will wear things out faster. No real harm, just shorter life span and only if you're switching frequently.
I can think of plenty of strategies that will minimize wear on HIDs (assuming you have them - many of us do) but I don't want to confuse with options until we know what you're working with. Please let us know what you have installed and how you'd like them to function and I'm sure we can work it out.
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@KayTwo, yes, a rotary switch would work, as long as it was weather-proof. Any switch will work as long as it has same number of positions as the different combinations you wanted. For example, my switch is wired for "off - halos (full power) - headlights & halos (half power)" so the halos will dim when the headlights are on. I could also wire fog lights to the "off" position but then I would always have something turned on because it would now be wired as "fog lights - halos (full power) - headlights & halos (half power)" Since the power to the halos runs on two different circuits, I could just as easily wire the half power halo circuit in with the fogs so the halos would always be on, just dimmer when the headlights or fogs were on.
The downside to a rotary switch is that you have to go through each position between the current position and the desired position and power is interrupted with each click of the knob. If you have HIDs installed, each time you interrupt the power to the HIDs it will trigger the HID ignitor which could shorten the life of the bulbs and possibly the ballasts. Just something to consider.
If you already know the combinations you want, post them here and we can work out the best order of progression and a rough schematic for you.
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With our front fender flapping issues and the air flow up under the hood...is putting a rear air foil on adding down pressure to the rear end....lifting the front end ...Which would be counter productive..
I understand the down pressure helps the back end....traction and such...but I just wonder if it's enough down force to make the front end want to lift...which would not help with steering traction.
@Bigdog, for all the reasons noted by @Live-a-Little! and more, you don't really need to worry about the front end lifting - with or without a wing. Keep in mind that the hood is just molded plastic and flexes much easier than either steel or fiberglass (fiber reinforced plastic resin). The visible wobble is really just an aesthetic issue. The wing does not pose a significant front traction problem because it does not raise the front in any way nor does it reduce the weight sitting on the front wheels. It changes the overall vehicle angle of attack by compressing the rear suspension but only by approximately 1 or 2 degrees which is not enough to cause concern. -
I have a second question Jason. Why don't you live here in Florida?
Because it's too damn hot and steamy. When the air temperature hits 75, I break a sweat sitting in a chair. If the humidity is high... forget it. Living in FL I would be showering and changing my briefs 3 times a day. -
Damn Jason!! I didn't realize you were so talented and skilled!!! Truly awesome stuff there Brother! I do have a question though... why haven't I been to your garage!!!
@TheRock, there's one big reason you've never been to my garage... I haven't invoted you because it's a fickin mess. Don't take it personally; I don't invite anyone over to hang out in my garage because there's barely room to stand let alone sit and have a beer.
Here's a digital render of my original dream garage that I modeled in Sketchup (of course) and rendered with a plugin for Kerkythea. 5 yrs. ago (2012) we had a toilet leak run unchecked for about 10 hrs in the bathroom directly above the garage. Everything had to come out and the walls and ceiling had to be repaired, so I was starting with a clean slate and wanted to do it up right. And we did. We had the contractor paint the walls and ceiling white, then we hired a pro to do the epoxy floor. That didn't go as well as I hoped (wrong color, had to pay to have it changed) and the logo proved too difficult to for them but I got the orange/gray with the black stripe, so I let it go at that. I painted the stripes on the wall and started on the cabinets. And I still haven't finished the cabinets.
That was the dream when I created it 5 yrs ago (2012). This is the reality, as of this writitng...
Obviously, the plan evolved (or devolved) a bit, plus I get sidetracked easily, thanks to my ADHD, so a lot of stuff gets delayed indefinitely. As you can see, there's not a lot of room for company.
However, folks do stop by occasionally when they need something tweaked or they need to borrow a (fill in the blank), and it's rare that I don't have one or can't tweak whatever needs it.So, I don't really do invites but I do take appointments if you have a need that can't be resolved with a house call. Yeah, I do those too.
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Damn man! You've been holding out!! I didn't know you had all those skills!! Wish I had known!! I definitely would have been reaching out to you! Very interested to see this fender design you come up with. The buck and 3D Model look AMAZING!!! Skillz, Sir! You have skillz!!
Damn - now there is some untapped talent!
how did you keep that a secret so long...............
Not intentionally holding out, it just doesn't come up in conversation very often.
In my defense, I did note in my user profile that I tinker with all kinds of stuff. Here's some examples...- Built this rack for my floor jack, stands, and chocks (inspired by design I saw in the Family Handyman magazine... https://goo.gl/photos/LBSdoYWLQ58wfNXv6
- Designed an expansion for my brother's little 10x10 shed... https://youtu.be/A9w_j7pL6sA
- Developed a Sketchup plugin that generates mechanical gears for 3D models... https://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=46319
- Hand painted a big Harley logo across some cabinet doors I built for my garage ... https://goo.gl/photos/KwFZ8Txfvav1ebpT9
- Built some props for a Charlie Brown Christmas play at our old church. I'm especially proud of how well Schroeder's baby grand piano turned out... https://goo.gl/photos/73KTjXAwx17UXjfw5
- I built lift to get my mower & snow thrower off the garage floor... (video is very noisy - turn down volume) https://youtu.be/YwBxv0G9A08
- I made a similar lift for the little trailer I pull behind my SS. Everything goes into the clamshell carrier and I winch it up to the ceiling, above the garage door tracks... 4CDKtrG9XKfWZYPv5
- Wired my own halo lights (not a kit) with relays and a voltage regulator to a 3 position switch (off / halos only/ halos & headlights) so the halos will dim a bit when the headlights come on. The off position was supposed to energize the turn signals as parking lights, but I got stymied by the low-side switching that Polaris uses on the SS lights. Now that I have a service manual with schematics, I plan on trying to tackle it again some time in the future and will replace the bulky relays with a compact array of transistors once I get everything worked out.
- Built my own custom drop hitch and tag holder for my first Wycked Hitch... https://goo.gl/photos/3eSEcoQfE7ABBp4b6
- Converted my Trailer-in-a-Bag motorcycle hauler into the cargo trailer I drag behind my SS... https://goo.gl/photos/RYgeiU91RP6hJbag7
and the list goes on...
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This is my final fender design, exported from Sketchup. The buck doesn't have the same detail, but the next one will.
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@TheRock, I also have a 3D CAD/CAM drawing of the 2015 SS that I purchased from Humster3D (https://hum3d.com/3d-models/polaris-slingshot-2015/) that I've been using with Sketchup to design a few things, including my fender. I can't share the file, but I could help you draw up your scoop in 3D, if needed.
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@TheRock to answer your question about bucks, here's a pic of a buck I built for my rear fender. One if these days I'll lay fiberglass over it to create the mold, then lay fiberglass in to the mold to create the actual fender.
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That's aluminum square tubing and it's pretty strong and all the joints are welded.
True, the frame itself is strong, but it is anchored at the front while the wing would apply pressure at the unsupported rear. My concern would be the extra stress on the anchors, like a lever. But again, if @MACAWS hasn't had a problem in 16k miles, then I'm probably underestimating the strength of those welds.
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You can mount it to the sub frame below the deck - Mine has been mounted for 16K miles not an issue
But then again I don't drive fast enough to create downforceWell, if @MACAWS hasn't had an issue then either the subframe is stronger than it looks or my calculations are WAY off, or both (most likely). He might not drive as fast as @ericastar76 (lead-foot) but it is an endorsement that has merit.
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Currently looking to add the following 4 items to my sling:
> Rear wing (mounted to the frame ~> not roll bars)
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I would recommend caution when deck or frame mounting a wing. I know the plastic deck is too thin to support the wing so surface mounting is not really an option. The steel frame ends at the roll hoops and everything behind it is supported by an aluminum subframe that is not made to handle excessive loads. I don't know how much downforce the wing will actually develop but using some VERY rough calculations, here are some estimates: assuming a 48x8 wing with a 5 degree angle of attack will generate approx. 295 lbs. of downforce at 70 mph. At 80 mph, that jumps to approx. 380 lbs. and at 90 mph, it jumps to approx. 485 lbs. The roll hoops could handle that kind of load, but I'm not sure I would trust the aluminum subframe. If you're deadset on a frame mount, I would recommend you reach out to @RichArlt (creator of the Wycked Hitch) about a custom mount that attaches to the frame similar to his hitch design. I'm sure he'd be happy to try rigging something up for you. -
@SlingRider, if the connector pins are not melted in and can be slipped out, you might be able to get away with replacing just the connector (Metri-pack 150 series) without having to cut the wires.
The bigger question is why did it melt in the first place? I can understand why the factory/dealer would want to replace the entire harness because the wiring could be comprimised elsewhere. I'm assuming you've made some electrical mods (battery, lighting, etc.) so I can see how that would void any warranty claims for this problem. Blowing a high amp fuse and melting the connector is definitely cause for concern. Simply fixing the part that failed may not be the end of your woes.
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It is late but better late then never
"Birthdays are like boogers... the more you have, the harder it is to breathe."
(From my all-time favorite birthday card, probably Shoebox or Hallmark)
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