Prayers forthcoming from all in the Ozarks
Posts by mniron
-
-
Seems odd that the torque would be correct with movement at the pivot point. If the bearing is the culprit then you should visibly see the swing arm move with the pivot bolt staying stationary. With 5-7mm movement it should be easy to see where the movement is. If it is in the pivot the swing arm will need to be removed for inspection regardless of the issue.
-
I am talking about swing arm pivot bearings.......
I am thinking the swing arm bushing on the pulley side is not locked into the frame, that would allow the swing arm to move. Start by checking the torque on the nut, torque is 195 ft#. If it is out of spec, remove the swing arm to check bushings, frame, and bearings. I would not continue to drive it until you know what the problem is, in this location damage to the frame could occur through continued movement. I doubt the bearings are the issue. If the bushing is not locked into the frame, just tightening the nut may not seat the bushing if something is already damaged.
-
@The Wizard, I made the cover out of two pieces of aluminum flat stock that I curve and fitted to the front nose. Then powder coated to match, simply bolted on with oxide coated stainless steel bolts to give a mechanical look. This was part of my de-badging of my Slingshot.
-
Some pictures of the vents
-
@Ruptured Duck, I am also working on some skirting to help with air flow. I have to many projects in the works to complete right now. Good winter project. I did get some front canards mounted, not nearly as large as yours. You might recognize the side vents when I post a picture.
FYI, I want your top also
-
Display MoreI can't speak for mniron because I don't know if they are the same flats @ fenders and center flat but the ones on mine were once upon a time part of my fund raising efforts for St.Jude
When the demand slowed down for them I stopped having them stamped.
I just wanted something functional
Yes these are the flats that I got from you! I was happy to contribute to a great cause. Good to hear from you, maybe this will spur some interest again. Glad to hear you are feeling human again.
The vents are functional!
-
Installing hood scoops would increase the pressure in the engine compartment forcing the air to move out though the front wheel wells, under the vehicle, down the transmission tunnel, and through the porous firewall into the cockpit. Yes it will help cool the engine compartment with negative implications, wheel wells already have high air pressure which contribute to flapping fenders, increasing pressure under the vehicle increases drag and floating, more heated air moving down the transmission tunnel increases drag and heats the cabin area, and more heat coming through the firewall just makes sweat!
The heat fix on the new Slingshots is reducing the air pressure in the engine compartment by forcing the air that passes through the radiator down underneath the vehicle with a negative effect of increasing the pressure under the vehicle. The positive is the heat moves under the passenger area and not through the firewall into the cockpit or down the transmission tunnel. On the comfort side of things this was effective, on performance side it is a negative.
Vents that create a lower-pressure will draw out the higher pressure air in the engine compartment, this air then flows out and around the passenger area. Most performance vehicles move the heat out over the hood and out behind the front wheel wells by drafting.
The picture below shows the venting in the works, I have completed the vents shown. The front vents on the hood drafts air from the radiator and air behind the center lights. The center vent is above the engine itself. The fender vents relieve pressure under the fenders which reduces the pressure in the engine compartment. This picture was taken while I was working on placement of the front vents, final location was more forward. This weekend I can post a couple more pictures. I also have vents behind the front wheel splash guards whis is a natural low pressure location. I will post pics of these vents also.
-
@Painter secret helper on #34
-
It certainly looks like a drastic improvement!
-
Thanks guys, 4 weeks but the dealership was awesome giving me weekly updates almost like clock work. - Tri County Honda is located in Petersburg, WV. Shop our large online inventory.Damn sorry you were down so long, knowing I could have helped you out!
-
Sorry I missed this thread earlier, mine had exactly the same symptoms! I will add that if you kept pushing through the corner with the abs light on, the ecu would then start to cut out the engine.
Had the dealer look for readings in the ecu over a month ago shortly after it happened. The readings showed intermentant speed sensor on the rear wheel. There is no codes for this but did have a intermentant time stamps. The sensor was fine so I replaced the rear bearing(wheel side only) myself with my backup that same day. Before I removed the bearing, I could see the seals were broken. Replacing with a new bearing immediately fixed all of the symptoms.
I then took the old bearing to my dealer to file a warranty claim for the bearing itself with documented ecu readings. Polaris came through with a new bearing within a week.
Glad you got it fixed now. Maybe others can avoid down time if they have similar symptoms, again you will not get any codes. These symptoms are actually early stages of the large bearing failure.
-
-
Oh....and just to make this all the more interesting.......I just received a frickin summons to appear for jury duty on 9/13!!!!!!!
Can you believe this.....I can't make this stuff up!!!! I am so excited on one hand, and also so upset on the other!!!! I'm attempting to get a postponement, but the judges in this area are not known for their humanity.....
I'm thinking worse case scenario.......I'll be standing in front of the judge at a later date, paying a hefty fine for failure to appear
Just tell them you can't go, your baby is due at the same time!
-
OK Dave, tried that it was right. Still the same notchy feel... Any other ideas?? If not I'm good with it, I really always thought it was normal until I heard about the other brand.
I had the same stiff feeling with mine, last spring I took the boot and seal off and poured some Lucas Oil Additive down over the ball and pins. Replaced the seal and boot, took it for a spin, vastly smoothed out the shifting. I believe the shifter just needs a little more lubricant. Only did this once about 8,000 miles ago, but liked the results
-
I want this, but no talent to do myself. Any videos? Road trips to the Northeast?
I have been trying to put together a DIY kit but my day job has been getting in the way! No plans for trips to the Northeast(Darn day job!). I want anyone who want these to have them and I believe most can install themselves with good directions and proper tools. I have been perfecting the install myself and trying to put a DIY kit that works.
-
We are staying at the host hotel. Although, probably the most interesting place in Eureka to stay is the crescent hotel:
Eureka Springs Vacation - Eureka Springs Hotels - Crescent Hotel
Our visit to the Crescent Hotel last year, didn't visit the morgue but rather had a great evening dinner. -
The thought of drilling into my paint MYSELF!!!!!!
image.gifIn a cold garage in Minnesota last winter, I drilled holes in my fenders, I think I was wearing a tee shirt and needed a shower afterwards. If I had a custom paint job, I would had slipped on the ice formations on the floor!
-
Count me in, what is your beverage of choice? You will need refreshments doing all the installs.
While doing installs, unsweetened ice tea(need to stay sharp). After installs, Long Island Ice Tea!
-
OR CHROME??????
I only have black now, but I was expecting this question from you. I can look into polished, it would be a special order and doubt I would have it for Eureka Springs.
