Posts by Dave@DDMWorks

    Can we give you an engine at time of pick up to replace the block for what you are building or do we need to drop an engine off in advance to be built.


    If so what is an acceptable engine. I ask because I have 2 lined up I am going to look at I think they are LE 9's
    I will be out of town for a week so I hope at least one of them is there when I get back


    What is you core charge if we do not bring an engine to swap?

    We can build up your engine or a core that we get here. If we are building up a core, we charge $600 for the core and when you pickup the engine and drop off a good core, we just refund that $600 back.


    Any 2.4L Ecotec is acceptable, LE5, LE9 or even the LAT. The LAF and LEA are not compatible. Mileage is not important since basically everyone gets replaced in the engine. Some of the earlier Malibu engines have a weird EGT valve on the side so the cylinder head is a little different, but it will still work also. If you have any questions, just shoot a link over to us and we can let you know if it is compatible or not.


    Core charge is $600.


    Hope everyone has a great weekend and be safe out there!

    We are all looking forward to working with Rabtech on this build and it worked out well with an engine that we have coming through machine work now to fit into his timeframe. We do have some pictures of the engine that we disassembled for the build that we will be passing along and also some more pictures as the engine comes back together that I am sure will get shared with everyone.


    If you have any questions along the way, feel free to ask!
    Thanks again!
    Dave

    I have the Stop Tech rotors from Noel with Hawk pads from DDM.
    As far as stopping power I have never had an issue they are a great combo. If I could just get a more solid pedal with less travel I would be ecstatic.
    I have beat them up on the street and on the track. I would consider a big brake kit but I love my stock size base wheels and the only option that will fit inside those rims are the Alpha set up. Beautiful as they are, cost is the only inhibiting factor. I think front only kits would be a nice option since 90% of the work is done up front and that would bring the cost down a bit.


    Just my 2 cents

    Hmm, if only someone made a front kit only... ;)


    Slingshot Front Big Brake Kit by DDMWorks

    I have not changed over from my stock brakes yet and I really should with all the aggressive driving I do. I was looking at the HAWK HB-275-S.62 compound. Is this the best compound to get?


    That part number is for Hawk HT-10 pads, which are going to be a track only setup and take some work to get up to operating temperature (see graph above), probably not something you would want to run on the street.


    The Hawk Brake pad part numbers work like this -


    We will use the part number HB275S.620 as an example. The first 2 letters stand "HB" stand for Hawk Brakes. The next 3 numbers "275" correspond to the shape of the brake pad. The next letter "S" is the pad material/compound. The last 3 numbers after the "." are the thickness of the pads in inches. So a ".620" is .620" thick.


    As for the pad material letters from Hawk, here is the breakdown -
    F - HPS
    B - HPS 5.0
    Z - Ceramic
    N - HP Plus
    G - DTC60
    V - DTC50
    S - HT10
    E - Blue
    EE - Blue42
    W - DTC30
    M - Black


    Hope that helps.
    Dave

    @Dave@DDMWorks any info on your sway bar?

    The sway bar is the same outside diameter as stock, which means that it can be installed in the stock sway bar mounts with the stock end links. What we did though is made the wall thicker, which increases the rate of the bar about 30%. On vehicles with stickier tires, the sway bar makes a nice improvement to the handling, since they will induce more roll in the Slingshot. This batch is all red, although they will be available in black in about a month also.

    @Dave@DDMWorks thanks for the technical explanation. Really helps.


    On another note I see you are offering a sway bar with spherical end links and poly mounts. Can you explain the difference between diff over the stock bar? The look to be the same diameter. I thought the thicker the bar the stiffer it is thus better. Can you provide further education?


    I run the 5.0 Hawk pads with the stock rotors and do not have a heat problem. But in the twisties I use my brakes very little, just ask those that followed me in Maggie Valley. Now as far as having to grind the pad to install on the rear, that was me. Nothing I tried worked until I took a file to the rear pads to get a little more clearance where I could slip over the rotor. This is not my first rodeo, I have done my own work on all my cars and motor cycles since I was 14 years old. There is only 2 things that I have not done and that is the transmission and the rear end, I always let someone else do those. DO NOT TAKE A GRINDER TO YOUR BRAKE PADS the surface needs to be flat and smooth. Matter of fact I have got to put rear pads on the wife's Equinox tomorrow.

    Did you use the backing plates maybe?

    @Dave@DDMWorks with the Hawk pads I understand you have to grind the face down to get them to fit. I was going to do just that and my harbor freight grinder took a dump on me on start up. I haven't had time to go up North to get it replaced. I know stupid excuse

    I keep hearing that about the Hawk pads and I have no idea where that is coming from. I am sure some of you saw us installing brake pads up at Maggie Valley and all of those were just straight out of the box, no grinding at all. I will say that the rear brake caliper can be a pain to reset by turning and pressing it in at the same time, maybe someone just didn't spend enough time to turn and compress the rear caliper to fit the pads? I would love to know, since we have never ground down any of the Hawk pads before installing them. If someone knows, please share :)

    @Dave@DDMWorks


    Can I purchase the oil filter adapter from you?


    The actual cooler I will setup different because the way my intercooler and radiator are setup, I will have more space to put a bigger one in front than a normal SS or one with a FMIC like Alpha.

    Sure, I will have Ivy start working on the separate page for it and post it up. Let me know if you are going to mount it in the same location, I can get you the bracket that we are using also.

    Just wondering why you went with the 5.0 pads up front and left the stock pad in the back? The rear brake setup actually does a fair amount of work on the Slingshot and can definitely use the same upgrade in the back.

    @Switchblade, the Alpha's kit does look great, but I just couldn't justify spending $2,000 more than the StopTech Kit. BTW, almost any pad/rotor combination can lock up the wheels. It's what happens after repeated steps (hence the fade and warped rotors). Enlarged, Slotted, Drilled, Vented, etc. are all done to remove heat and get the temperature of the rotors down. What a lot of people are really looking for is pad "bite", or how aggressively the brakes slow the vehicle down with minimal effort. There's also a "force" curve as well, just like how an engine horsepower comes on. Some grab great at first, then taper off. Most race pads are very linear and consistent. Back to temperature. On the street, this can work against you since if there isn't enough temperature in the pads/rotors, it won't stop as well as when they're in optimal temperature range. So far, the kit I have seems to do great in both scenarios. I don't have experience with this setup on the track, though, but @Noel Hughes has run them at the FIRM track and said they're great, so they're probably good there as well. Make sense?



    BTW, where are you located?

    Just a couple quick notes -


    Here is a good example of the force vs. temperature for Hawk Pads -



    It is very important though that when picking brake pads that you work in the heat range that you are driving the vehicle. On the Slingshot, there is not a lot of mass to stop since the vehicle is relatively light and the rotors are actually rather large for the weight of the vehicle and its weight distribution. If you go with a pad that is overly aggressive you may never get the brakepad into its ideal operating range, which a lot of the times means lower coefficient of friction, more dust and non-linear braking force.


    As for the big brake kits, the 4 piston or 6 piston setups if sized correctly will not apply more force to the pads, they do provide that force more evenly across the pad surface though to prevent tapering of the pad. All of the big brake kits I have seen use larger pads, our DDMWorks kit, Alpha's or Stoptech's all have larger pads than stock. The larger pad volume has the benefit of higher thermal mass. This higher thermal mass of the pad helps with temperature spikes under hard braking, takes more energy to raise the temperature of the pad and also the larger pad volume helps with longevity. The big brake kits also have larger rotors (14" on our DDMWorks kit, 13" on Alpha's, etc.) which also have more thermal mass also. Larger thermal mass of the rotors allows them to absorb the initial thermal load under heavy braking and since all of the aftermarket kits have better vanes internally, typically directional, they are able to disapate the heat faster than the stock rotors also. One note with the big brakes we found during testing of our kit, with the bigger pads and rotors it is actually difficult to get some of the more aggressive pads up to operating temperature at all, unless you are doing hard braking repetitively with sticky tires.


    The other big factor to consider with braking is your tires. No matter how good your brakes are, the tires are what contact the ground and actually stop you. So if you have some really sticky tires, you can go with more aggresive pads because you can develop the higher friction with the road to stop faster. If you are on stock tires you really do not want to go with something too aggressive, otherwise you will just engage the ABS and never really get the pads to their operating range.


    The slingshot setup stock is not that bad, mainly just a pad replacement takes care of most people. The 2 piece rotors are nice and offer better cooling and less rotational weight and with a pad upgrade definitely takes care of almost everyone. The big brake kits are typically not needed unless you are doing some hard track days with sticky tires, although they do look great :)


    Hope that helps,
    Dave

    Sounds like you will be in good hands over there, but if you have any questions during the build, just let us know. It is fun to start seeing these built engines going in the Slingshots now, we are doing 3 more right now and with yours and Inewtons out there, some serious power is going to be made soon and many rear tires will die a smoky death :)

    I looked at this when you were in Springdale but didn't get a chance to discuss it with you. My question is how do you change the filter without getting oil on everything? That was my only concern. Looked like a very good setup otherwise.


    Most oil filters have a little valve that prevents most of the oil from draining out of them, so most of the oil stays in the filter. For the oil that is in the center of the filter that does come out when you remove the filter, the oil fitler adapter we made has a little lip that will hold most of it. We did also put just a couple paper towels under the filter when we changed it to catch any remaining that came out, which was not that much.

    We have the full kit running on our Slingshot right now. We had it on up at Maggie Valley and have been doing some longer term testing on it. Just put another 1900 miles on it last week to make sure everything is working well with it. We just returned from a week long event in Arkansas, so I can get you some more details later, but attached are a couple quick pictures of the setup. It will include the oil filter adapter and bracket, cooler and bracket and all of the -10 lines. For people that have bought the oil filter adapter that fits in the engine, the rest of the parts will be available seperately also. I do not have final pricing on it yet though and will post that up once it is available also.
    .


    That's about the coolest thing I've heard today! My new job will be over by the Donaldson Center Airport, so close by you guys. I will definitely get over there to see you guys...much to the chagrin of my better half, I am sure. Glad to hear there is a local Sling group, even if they're not necessarily on this page. Thanks for the info!

    Over near Donaldson center was where our old shop was located, I know that area really well, there are a lot of fun "test roads" in that area. There is an abandoned runway that we also used to use for testing, but they shut off access to it now, unless you have some good friends at Michelin ;)

    We are in Greenville! It's a great little town, if you have not been downtown yet, definitely stop down and check it out. There are a couple local dealers, we typically work with Cherokee Trikes over off of HWY 14 in Greer. That seems to be where most of the local Slingshot owners are meeting up for rides, etc. Feel free to stop by our place anytime though also. Let us know if there is anything else we can answer for you!


    Dave