Posts by Dave@DDMWorks

Quote from SLLE Canada

If it's not to private how much HP do you expect from this build, and what is the ball park price on this build.
I understand it you don't want to disclose either.

Hopefully the pricing is not too secret, here is a link to the items he is using on our website

DDMWorks 2.4L Built engine for Slingshot - Built Slingshot 2.4L Engine by DDMWorks

DDMWorks 2.4L Fuel Rail for Slingshot - 2.4L Slingshot Center feed Fuel Rail by DDMWorks

DDMWorks 2.4L Clutch and Flywheel for Slingshot - 2.4L Performance Clutch by DDMWorks

As for the final power that he makes with the built engine, that is up to how much boost he runs and tuning.

Hope that helps,
Dave

Quote from TCB

So thats an RX7 rotor?? Any 80 year in particular??

I believe someone was trying a FD rear rotor - 93-95 RX-7 and the dimensions are similar, but I believe the overall diameter is off a little bit and the center bore is different. We looked for weeks trying to find if they are from another application, had our brake pad supplier look and a company that makes our rotors and no one could find an exact match. There are some Acura models that were close also, but from what we can tell Polaris is having the rotors made specific for the Slingshot. Good luck with the search though, if you need any dimensions off of the stock rotors, we have a bunch of them here.

This is one of the questions that come up a lot, the old turbo vs. supercharger debate.

Technically, anything that forces more air into the engine then it would have ingested naturally aspirated is a supercharger. Superchargers that are driven off of exhaust gas through a turbine are technically called turbine superchargers, but more commonly just called turbos.

All of the forced induction systems have the primary goal of forcing a higher mass of air into the cylinder, which when fueled correctly, generates higher cylinder pressures and more torque on the crank, which makes tires go up in smoke faster

First lets look at the turbo. Turbos are bolted to the exhaust and use exhaust heat energy to drive a turbine wheel. The shaft of that turbine is connected to a compressor on the other side, which then compresses the air and sends it back to the engine (usually through an intercooler) to produce more power. Typically turbos have enjoyed having the higher adiabatic efficiency over superchargers, especially at higher boost pressures. When you compress air it gets heated up no matter what type of supercharger, the more adiabatic efficient the supercharger is, the less it heats the air. Typically most turbos will be in the low to mid 70% efficient adiabatically. Turbos are also typically easier to design as a kit or a one off, since no belt drive has to be created.

Turbo Pros -
- Since they are using exhaust energy to drive the turbo, you can typically make more horsepower for a given injector size (I will explain this more on the belt driven supercharger)
- They make the blow off noise that a lot of people like
- Typically when sized correctly, newer turbos will provide a really nice midrange pull.
- Because of the restriction in the exhaust created by the turbine wheel, a natural EGR effect takes place which helps with gas mileage.
- Good at altitude compensation. Since they are not tied to engine RPM, they can spin a little faster to make up for a higher altitude to deliver the same pressure.
- Since the turbine is a restriction in the exhaust, it acts like a natural muffler a little bit also making things quieter.

Turbo Cons -
- The exhaust turbine blocks the free flow of exhaust gases out of the engine, typically causing the pressure in the exhaust manifold to be roughly at least 1.5-2 times the intake manifold pressure (unless you are running a really big turbine housing). So if you are running 10 psi in the intake, the exhaust manifold is at 15-20 psi. This backs heat up into the cylinder head and combustion chambers and makes it more prone to detonation.
- There is always a disconnect between gas pedal position and power. For the turbo to make power, the throttle blade has to open, intake air has to go into the cylinder, be ignited, exit out the exhaust and turn the turbine wheel. That process takes time and is the reason that turbos have a delayed response. Newer turbos like the EFR's do a really good job a reducing the mass of the turine wheel and compressor to help speed up that transition, but it is always there. Some of the OEM manufacturers are working on electric turbos which do completely elimate any lag since they can be spooled almost instantly are something to watch in the future.
- Since the turbo retains a lot of heat, things around the exhaust manifold should be protected from the heat to make sure they do not fail prematurely. Right now on the Solstice/Sky's we are having about a 10:1 failure rate of the waterpumps on the factory turbo cars vs. the stock 2.4L cars. The exhaust manifold for the turbo engine sits really close to the water pump and appears to be getting them hot and causing the seal in the waterpump to fail.

There are a couple different main types of belt driven/geared superchargers out there, positive displacement and centrifugal.

-The positive displacement superchargers are what most people are familiar with and what you see on top of top fuel dragsters. The positive displacement supercharger moves a fixed volume of air per revolution (techinically they do not, since there is some volumetric efficiency differences with the speed that you spin them, but for this conversation we will just stick with a fixed volume). Because they are a fixed volume these are the superchargers that make your engine just seem like a bigger engine when you drive it, typically also the torque curve on this type of engine looks just like the stock torque curve, just elevated. Some positive displacement superchargers have internal compression (Whipples) most do not have internal compression and just move more air than the engine can ingest and produce boost that way. This is why positive displacement superchargers typically do not do well with higher boost pressures (more than 10psi) since it causes air to leak back through the rotors, generate heat and less efficiency.

- The centrifigal supercharger is more like a belt driven turbo. It has a centrifgal compressor that spins and is powered off of the engine directly instead of the exhaust gas. Because of the similarity to turbos, these superchargers will have internal compression and are more efficient at higher pressures than their positive displacement brothers. They typically also have a higher adiabatic efficiency than the positive displacement superchargers, typically on par with turbos. Since they do not move a fixed volume of air per revolution though, when they are spinning slowly they do not produce much boost and typically produce peak boost pressures at the engine redline. There are also several different types of centrifigal superchargers. The unit that we are using in our kit is made by Rotrex and is a small compact unit since it is capable of spinning upwards of 125,000RPMS, which helps make this supercharger more efficient in the midrange also. There are also the older styler centrifigals like Vortech, Paxton, Procharer, etc that will typically max out at 35-50,000 RPM's and make most of their power only in the upper RPM range.

Supercharger Pros -

- Instant power, no waiting for spool, no transieant response time, just immediate power. Works great with traction control since the ECM can cut throttle and add it back in and there is no delay with any of that happening.
- No restriction in the exhaust, this allows heat to get out of the cylinder head and not build up in the cylinder head and combustion chamber. Typically you can run much more static timing with a supercharger than a turbo at the same pressures.
- No connection to the engine oil or coolant system. Since the supercharger has its own oil system, there is no extra heat put into the engine oil or coolant.
- Exhaust modifications done when naturally aspirated can typically be used with the supercharger kits.

Supercharger cons -
- No altitude compensation. As you go higher up in altitude, the supercharger will produce less boost since the air becomes thinner.
- Since the supercharger is belt driven, power has to be made by the engine to power the supercharger, this means that for the same size injector a supercharger can not make as much power at the wheels since some of that power is needed for the supercharger.

As to which is best for the Slingshot -

No choice is perfect for everyone, it is kinda like blondes, brunettes or redheads, everyone has a preference though

The turbos are good for those that want to sit in 5th gear, floor it and have some boost pressure to pull them at 2000RPM. Once turbos are spun up, they can be very fun and fast on response, but still a little disconnected. The centrifigal supercharger we are using really wakes up around 3500 RPM and pulls like a train all the way to redline. It does make power below that RPM also, but the turbo will beat it below that RPM, to get the most out the centrifigal you need to downshift and run the car hard. The centrigal kit works better for the customer that has no problem shifting at redline to make peak power, drives the car hard, the instant power and response makes it a lot of fun on a track or up in the mountains coming out of turns.

If you have a chance drive them both, you will gravitate towards one or the other. If you can not drive them both, just honestly pay attention to how you drive the Slingshot and what RPM's you are at, that will point you in a direction of which to choose.

As to why we think we have not had the issues that some of the turbo engines have had -

There have been a lot of blown engines out there that we know about, and talking with a lot of those customers there have been a lot of reasons why they have blown up. Some of the early turbo kits made by some manufacturers had several design issues, which as far as we have seen have been corrected now, but some customers were beta testers unknowingly for some companies. Some customers have done stupid things installing their kits also and some engine failures really made no sense and we honestly have no idea why they failed with the information given to us. There have definitely been issues though with boost spikes and creep that have caused issues also though.

With that said, I think that there are a couple reasons why our kits have been so reliable. The first kit we installed last year ran a full year on a piggyback controller, stock exhaust manifold, stock catalytic coverter and stock exhaust at 12psi of boost without blowing an engine, anyone want to try that with a turbo? Since the supercharger is tied to the engine RPM, there is no way to cause a boost spike or creep (unless you are running the stock catalytic converter and it becomes clogs/fails). There is also no way for customers to simply change a spring on their own and overboost their setup beyond what it was tuned for and blow an engine. Unless they want to make a custom pulley to spin the supercharger faster, the boost pressure is fixed by us. Like I mentioned earlier,we keep the cylinder head, combustion chamber and pistons cooler since we allow the exhaust to exit freely from the engine. Also, since the centrifigal only makes a couple PSI around 2-2500 RPM, we do not create high cylinder pressures in those RPM's. In the lower RPM's things are happening relatively slow and if there is a little too much timing or boost you can get into trouble really quick.

So, since we allow the engine to breathe out the exhaust easier, keep a fixed peak boost pressure and are a little softer on the lower RPM range, I think that is why the supercharger kits have been happier on the stock engines without any internal upgrades. Typically we are running around 280hp at the wheels on our setups (figure 330hp at the crank) with a 1320 header and any open 2.5" exhaust which makes for a fun drive for most people

Anyway, I know that is a lot of information, hope it helps, let me know if there is anything else I can answer for you.
Dave

Quote from MACAWS

Hey Dave

any info on my quote?
once you are done with rabtech I don't want you just sitting around> you have another power hungry SS owner waiting.

Thanks

Hey there, Just checked the message I sent on the 9th and resent it to you this time

Quote from rabtech

It could be a sticky in the Tech section. I have no problem with that.... I need Dave to OK me copying the post to that area.

Works for me, it would save me typing it all out again

Also, if I can still edit it, I can add a bunch more information and get a little more technical with some details.

Really, unless there is some big grooves in the rotors you should be fine without turning them. Just make sure you bed the pads well and you should be good to go.

Superchargers - There are a couple different main types of belt driven/geared superchargers out there, positive displacement and centrifugal.

-The positive displacement superchargers are what most people are familiar with and what you see on top of top fuel dragsters. The positive displacement supercharger moves a fixed volume of air per revolution (techinically they do not, since there is some volumetric efficiency differences with the speed that you spin them, but for this conversation we will just stick with a fixed volume). Because they are a fixed volume these are the superchargers that make your engine just seem like a bigger engine when you drive it, typically also the torque curve on this type of engine looks just like the stock torque curve, just elevated. Some positive displacement superchargers have internal compression (Whipples) most do not have internal compression and just move more air than the engine can ingest and produce boost that way. This is why positive displacement superchargers typically do not do well with higher boost pressures (more than 10psi) since it causes air to leak back through the rotors, generate heat and less efficiency.

- The centrifigal supercharger is more like a belt driven turbo. It has a centrifgal compressor that spins and is powered off of the engine directly instead of the exhaust gas. Because of the similarity to turbos, these superchargers will have internal compression and are more efficient at higher pressures than their positive displacement brothers. They typically also have a higher adiabatic efficiency than the positive displacement superchargers, typically on par with turbos. Since they do not move a fixed volume of air per revolution though, when they are spinning slowly they do not produce much boost and typically produce peak boost pressures at the engine redline. There are also several different types of centrifigal superchargers. The unit that we are using in our kit is made by Rotrex and is a small compact unit since it is capable of spinning upwards of 125,000RPMS, which helps make this supercharger more efficient in the midrange also. There are also the older styler centrifigals like Vortech, Paxton, Procharer, etc that will typically max out at 35-50,000 RPM's and make most of their power only in the upper RPM range.

Supercharger Pros -

- Instant power, no waiting for spool, no transieant response time, just immediate power. Works great with traction control since the ECM can cut throttle and add it back in and there is no delay with any of that happening.
- No restriction in the exhaust, this allows heat to get out of the cylinder head and not build up in the cylinder head and combustion chamber. Typically you can run much more static timing with a supercharger than a turbo at the same pressures.
- No connection to the engine oil or coolant system. Since the supercharger has its own oil system, there is no extra heat put into the engine oil or coolant.
- Exhaust modifications done when naturally aspirated can typically be used with the supercharger kits.

Supercharger cons -
- No altitude compensation. As you go higher up in altitude, the supercharger will produce less boost since the air becomes thinner.
- Since the supercharger is belt driven, power has to be made by the engine to power the supercharger, this means that for the same size injector a supercharger can not make as much power at the wheels since some of that power is needed for the supercharger.

As to which is best for the Slingshot -

No choice is perfect for everyone, it is kinda like blondes, brunettes or redheads, everyone has a preference though

The turbos are good for those that want to sit in 5th gear, floor it and have some boost pressure to pull them at 2000RPM. Once turbos are spun up, they can be very fun and fast on response, but still a little disconnected. The centrifigal supercharger we are using really wakes up around 3500 RPM and pulls like a train all the way to redline. It does make power below that RPM also, but the turbo will beat it below that RPM, to get the most out the centrifigal you need to downshift and run the car hard. The centrigal kit works better for the customer that has no problem shifting at redline to make peak power, drives the car hard, the instant power and response makes it a lot of fun on a track or up in the mountains coming out of turns.

If you have a chance drive them both, you will gravitate towards one or the other. If you can not drive them both, just honestly pay attention to how you drive the Slingshot and what RPM's you are at, that will point you in a direction of which to choose.

As to why we think we have not had the issues that some of the turbo engines have had -

There have been a lot of blown engines out there that we know about, and talking with a lot of those customers there have been a lot of reasons why they have blown up. Some of the early turbo kits made by some manufacturers had several design issues, which as far as we have seen have been corrected now, but some customers were beta testers unknowingly for some companies. Some customers have done stupid things installing their kits also and some engine failures really made no sense and we honestly have no idea why they failed with the information given to us. There have definitely been issues though with boost spikes and creep that have caused issues also though.

With that said, I think that there are a couple reasons why our kits have been so reliable. The first kit we installed last year ran a full year on a piggyback controller, stock exhaust manifold, stock catalytic coverter and stock exhaust at 12psi of boost without blowing an engine, anyone want to try that with a turbo? Since the supercharger is tied to the engine RPM, there is no way to cause a boost spike or creep (unless you are running the stock catalytic converter and it becomes clogs/fails). There is also no way for customers to simply change a spring on their own and overboost their setup beyond what it was tuned for and blow an engine. Unless they want to make a custom pulley to spin the supercharger faster, the boost pressure is fixed by us. Like I mentioned earlier,we keep the cylinder head, combustion chamber and pistons cooler since we allow the exhaust to exit freely from the engine. Also, since the centrifigal only makes a couple PSI around 2-2500 RPM, we do not create high cylinder pressures in those RPM's. In the lower RPM's things are happening relatively slow and if there is a little too much timing or boost you can get into trouble really quick.

So, since we allow the engine to breathe out the exhaust easier, keep a fixed peak boost pressure and are a little softer on the lower RPM range, I think that is why the supercharger kits have been happier on the stock engines without any internal upgrades. Typically we are running around 280hp at the wheels on our setups (figure 330hp at the crank) with a 1320 header and any open 2.5" exhaust which makes for a fun drive for most people

Anyway, I know that is a lot of information, hope it helps, let me know if there is anything else I can answer for you.
Dave

Quote from Joker256

@Dave@DDMWorks, I was hoping to get your thought on Supercharger vs turbo since your kit is supercharged.
specifically on a stock engine.
Pro and cons?
I will definitely be doing one or the other down the road. Just wanted your thoughts.
Thanks

This is one of the questions that come up a lot, the old turbo vs. supercharger debate.

Technically, anything that forces more air into the engine then it would have ingested naturally aspirated is a supercharger. Superchargers that are driven off of exhaust gas through a turbine are technically called turbine superchargers, but more commonly just called turbos.

All of the forced induction systems have the primary goal of forcing a higher mass of air into the cylinder, which when fueled correctly, generates higher cylinder pressures and more torque on the crank, which makes tires go up in smoke faster

First lets look at the turbo. Turbos are bolted to the exhaust and use exhaust heat energy to drive a turbine wheel. The shaft of that turbine is connected to a compressor on the other side, which then compresses the air and sends it back to the engine (usually through an intercooler) to produce more power. Typically turbos have enjoyed having the higher adiabatic efficiency over superchargers, especially at higher boost pressures. When you compress air it gets heated up no matter what type of supercharger, the more adiabatic efficient the supercharger is, the less it heats the air. Typically most turbos will be in the low to mid 70% efficient adiabatically. Turbos are also typically easier to design as a kit or a one off, since no belt drive has to be created.

Turbo Pros -
- Since they are using exhaust energy to drive the turbo, you can typically make more horsepower for a given injector size (I will explain this more on the belt driven supercharger)
- They make the blow off noise that a lot of people like
- Typically when sized correctly, newer turbos will provide a really nice midrange pull.
- Because of the restriction in the exhaust created by the turbine wheel, a natural EGR effect takes place which helps with gas mileage.
- Good at altitude compensation. Since they are not tied to engine RPM, they can spin a little faster to make up for a higher altitude to deliver the same pressure.
- Since the turbine is a restriction in the exhaust, it acts like a natural muffler a little bit also making things quieter.

Turbo Cons -
- The exhaust turbine blocks the free flow of exhaust gases out of the engine, typically causing the pressure in the exhaust manifold to be roughly at least 1.5-2 times the intake manifold pressure (unless you are running a really big turbine housing). So if you are running 10 psi in the intake, the exhaust manifold is at 15-20 psi. This backs heat up into the cylinder head and combustion chambers and makes it more prone to detonation.
- There is always a disconnect between gas pedal position and power. For the turbo to make power, the throttle blade has to open, intake air has to go into the cylinder, be ignited, exit out the exhaust and turn the turbine wheel. That process takes time and is the reason that turbos have a delayed response. Newer turbos like the EFR's do a really good job a reducing the mass of the turine wheel and compressor to help speed up that transition, but it is always there. Some of the OEM manufacturers are working on electric turbos which do completely elimate any lag since they can be spooled almost instantly are something to watch in the future.
- Since the turbo retains a lot of heat, things around the exhaust manifold should be protected from the heat to make sure they do not fail prematurely. Right now on the Solstice/Sky's we are having about a 10:1 failure rate of the waterpumps on the factory turbo cars vs. the stock 2.4L cars. The exhaust manifold for the turbo engine sits really close to the water pump and appears to be getting them hot and causing the seal in the waterpump to fail.

Quote from Ruptured Duck

sorry. Rear brake will be a little later. Doing the fronts first. Next month more than likely.
Have to source one more good used rotor to drill for he rear first.

We have a bunch of stock rotors here if you need some, just let me know.

Also, let me know if you find someone that can turn drilled rotors. Most places can't do it since the drilled holes catch the bit on the lathe and cause it to break or get damaged. There are some places that use a grinding wheel on a lathe to do it and they can turn crossdrilled rotors, but those are the only places we have seen in the past that can do a good job of it.

Quote from Switchblade

I noticed that gauge has the ability to cut boost? How?

They gauge is a boost controller also. When you set up the gauge you can tell it above X psi, Air fuel ratio must be below 12.5 or whatever you want and if it goes above that value, the boost controller opens and reduces boost to spring pressure. Also, the gauge will cut boost if boost spikes above a set value also.

As far as I know all the major forced induction kits are including upgraded fuel injectors, most everyone is using the same 60# Siemens injectors. I think everyone has also switched over to the 2 Bar MAP sensors also and include the upgraded injectors and MAP sensors with the kits.

The Slingshot Fuel pump is internal to the tank and has an integrated fuel pressure regulator and is a non-return style setup like most new cars.

Quote from Switchblade

Quote from Switchblade

can you enlighten us if the blown engines were from any of the known turbo makers? I have heard that none of the Alpha Turbos have led to blown engines.

Also if going with a turbo from say Hahn or Alpha and not going through a major new engine, while the turbo is going in, is it worth while to say replace the head bolts with Arp? Are there other things that could be done without an engine tear down?

The 3 major turbo kit manufacturers out there have all had kits they sold installed on vehicles that have blow engines, some people have even blown multiple engines with some of the turbo kits installed. The vehicle you are seeing being built in this thread had a turbo kit with the 4.5# spring setup in it from what we can tell, someone correct me if I am wrong on that (bare metal small spring and yellow medium spring).

As for what you can do to make sure that everything is running right, I highly suggest talking with the supplier of any kit before hand and see what they are suggesting. ARP head studs can be done without pulling the engine though and are a good safety measure. A good boost controller is something I would recommend highly with the turbo kits. The gauge that we have been testing here, monitors both boost and air/fuel ratio and if either one get out of a safe area under boost, it will automatically cut boost. That is something I would suggest on the turbo kits so that you do not have to worry about watching any gauges while driving.

Innovate Motorsports Boost Controller and Wideband Gauge

With our supercharger kits, we have not seen the need for any engine re-enforcement at all, just an exhaust and header is all that is needed. We typically do not suggest a boost gauge, since the boost is fixed based on the pulley ratio of engine to supercharger. We can even setup the supercharger to run with stock exhaust though if needed by the customer.

Rotrex Supercharger Kit for the Polaris Slingshot by DDMWorks

Hope that helps,
Dave

I was debating quite a bit on the different options for you, since there are just the clutch disc upgrades available. We have used the Exedy setups before, both the Stage 1 and Stage 2. Honestly though the Stage 1 exedy is just a little bit better than the stock clutch, the Stage 2 is better than stock, but the engagement is rather abrupt since it is a 3 puck clutch. That clutch upgrade by itself would be good if you wanted to stay with the stock flywheel, but since talking with you and deciding to go lightweight on the flywheel, it opened up the possibility of other options. There are the aluminum flywheels for the Exedy setups and there are also the SPEC clutches that are available, but with the clutch and flywheel they start being the same price as our clutch setup.

Our clutch/Flywheel kit we are going to be using in this setup we first started installing on Solstice/Sky's in 2008, so it has been around and tested for awhile now. The clutch setup has a flywheel that is recessed for the clutch disc to sit into, with a relatively flat pressure plate. All of the aftermarket clutch kits follow a similar setup, except for ours. We were able to go with a flat aluminum flywheel and a pressure plate that came down to meet the flywheel, almost a reverse of the factory setup. By doing so, we were able to come up with the lightest clutch/flywheel available for the 2.4L. We use a 6 puck sprung clutch disc, which does engage a little quicker than a complete full face clutch disc, but offers much higher holding power. The clutch is still sprung though to help smooth that engagement still like a factory setup though.

Looking forward to seeing how you like it

Stock Clutch/Flywheel combo - 36.1#

Our DDMWorks Clutch/Flywheel Setup - 22.8#

Comparison between the 2, you can see how the stock flywheel is taller to pocket the clutch disc inside of the flywheel compared to our setup -

Quote from rabtech

@Jeff@DDMWorks and @Dave@DDMWorks I forgot to mention I need a 3/8 NPT oil return drilled into the factory bung location. I sent Dave that email today. If yall don't have time to pull the pan I can do it. No worries.

Just shot you back an email, no problem, we will get it taken care of for you!

Quote from iNewton

Well, not to defend anyone, or brag, but rewind a couple of months ago, when he blew his LE9, and no one offered a built LE9. So that option wasn't there at that time.

I was the first to start posting on the other forum about taking that engine appart and getting pistons made etc. I had a really hard time finding any info on how to do this and no vendor (hans, ddm etc) answered any questions about forged internals.

I am not claming to be first to build a forged LE9, I am not that stupid, but 1 year ago someone looking to build the engine for turbo was near impossible to find info. Only 2-3 months after I started posting pics that some vendors started offering it (started with Slingstreet and the Slingshot X showing off a built LE9, then DDM offered a built longblock on their website, there is an other one too don't remember the name).

I always found strange that a vendor like Hans wouldn't offer a built engine with their kits.

Display More

iNewton - Sorry we missed your questions about the forged internals

Everyone else - The LE5 and the LE9 are essentially the same engine, if you change out the injectors and fuel rail you can make a LE5 a LE9 and vice versa. The LE9 is just the flex fuel version of the LE5 and is more equivalent to the 2008 and newer LE5's instead of the 06-07 version. If you are building the engine with pistons and rods the differences between those years do not matter though. So, for anyone building up an engine, the information for a LE5 will apply to the LE9 (atleast all the mechanical parts I can think of). All of the pistons out there and rods for an LE5 work on a LE9 because essentially they are the same engine except for the fuel system (fuel rail and injectors)

There is the also a great book out there - ECOTEC Build Book - on the internet, here is a copy from our website -

saab_ecotec_performance_guide.pdf

That book has a lot of information in it about building up Ecotec's, parts, tolerances, dimensions, etc. I have a copy I keep on my desk for reference. If you start getting into the book, there are 4 versions of the engine in that book, although they mostly build up the 2.0L LSJ. Most of the information still applies to the LE5, but there are some differences that you do need to be aware of. The 4 versions in the book are the 2.0L LSJ Supercharged, 2.2L L61 Naturally aspirated, 2.4L Naturally Aspirated (non-E85 version of the LE9) and the 2.0L LNF Turbo. The LSJ and the L61 are the first gen engines and the Le5 and LNF are the second gen engines.

We have been building the LE5's for years now, and I know we were not the first either. People have been building up the Ecotec 2.4L's since 2006 that we know of, so there are lots of parts out there and experience doing it. We never posted up built engines for sale specifically for the Slingshot until we learned how many of the turbo guys were blowing them up, and after we had a couple people call and get some built, figured maybe we should get them up on the site

Hope that clears some stuff up and gives some information for everyone to chew on, if you haven't seen it

Quote from nipper51

I believe to have heard the Malibu motor has a stock 259 or so HP. With that, would there be a need for a Turbo? Only being inquesative.

The 2.0L engines have 260hp, but that is with the factory turbo on it. There is the V6 Malibu's that had around 252hp, but not quite a plug and play replacement for the 2.4L LE9 engine in the Slingshot.

Quote from WOLF

@Ruptured Duck you don't need to do that "swerve brake " maneuver. Right in front of the Master cylinder is the ABS bleed valve. It is facing up and has a little black cap on it. My dealer did mine and my 2 pump days are behind me. He did suggest letting the Slingshot sit for a day so all the air can find its way to the top before bleeding.

Yeap, when we were bleeding brakes up at the Maggie Valley event, every slingshot we bled had air come out of that nipple on the ABS module. Most of them had air at the calipers also which was not helping either. A simple bleed of the system with a regular bleeder bottle and a 10mm wrench is all we have been using and if you get all 3 calipers and the ABS module, it seems to work.

Today only, ends at Midnight.

Ours never had the shims in it, but that was from years ago, so it might be something new.

We are actually using shims on ours also since the starting thread location on the LE5 and the LE9 are different. As a side note, from what we have seen every LE5 does start the threads at the same point, same with the LE9 blocks. Since ours was originally designed for the LE5 it clocks nicely everytime, but we had to do the shims to make it work consistantly with the LE9.

Hope that helps and thanks for the info!
Dave

Quote from gpcustoms

Took a spell but Im out and about Rab. Grill installed under the chin brings in additional air onto both the rad and cooler.
Im still a bit weak but the cooler sits in front of the rad at a 45 degree angle and below center so it does not block all in coming air. The aluminum grill helps keep rocks out of the soft targets. It should be noted that the cooler does not protrude down as far as the grill even though the grill has plenty of clearance as you can see from the photo of under the front shroud.
The placement of the filter adapter was important because I need access without creating additional problems and messes. At this location it is easily serviced and without twisting the body around and bending like a yoga instructor.


I used the CBM unit because its been around forever and can be clocked if the hoses do not line up and clear the intake.

Sorry about the grill in the photo but I am totally exhausted so I took the photo from the front of the grill

Happy thoughts

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Nicely done!

Just wondering about the CBM adapter you are using. We have used that one in the past before we made our own and it couldn't be clocked, just wondering how you are clocking it.

Thanks,
Dave

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Have a safe and Happy 4th!