The best thing would get a new short shifter kit from DDM. And replace all that garbage and have a nice tight shifter with less throw. You can then get a screw on knob that work so much better. I’ve replaced may of these for guys. It’s very easy to do. Pm if you have any questions.
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That's what I'm trying to do. Install the DDMworks short throw shifter. The issue is that I can't get the stock knob off because I can't break the 5mm hex set screw free.
I would use a little heat on it . Just don't melt the rubber boot. Also might help to use a straight Allen socket ( not ball end) . Hope this helps
I can't get a straight end in there. Even with the shifter pushed all the way to the right, the angle is not great enough to allow any long allen to clear the console. Any solution has too be short enough to fit inside the well around the shifter. Going to pickup a set of metric hex sockets and give that a try. Will try heating it too. I have a small heat gun designed for pin-point heating (for electronics work).
Anyone have issues getting the allen screw out of the factory shift knob? I couldn't get it to budge, so applied a pry bar to the wrench which resulted in the first pic below. In the second pick it looks like there is something on the threads. Green Loctite? I guess I could try some penetrating oil. I would try a ball-end allen on a ratchet but if it sheared a regular wrench I'm sure it would shear a ball- end off. (And yes, I'm turning it counter-clockwise 
)
This is interesting, I never knew that some years had more or less bars in the gas gauge than others - my Slingshot is a 2016 and the gauge has 8 bars. always seemed very reasonable to me with every bar equaling 1/8th of a tank - I just assumed they were all this way
It looks like they shortened the fuel gauge to make room for MPH/km/h icons. Mine says MPH to the left of the pump icon. See image from the 2019 owners manual below.
On the 2015 the fuel gauge had 9 bars which was one gallon per bar, I have not looked at the 2016 to see how many bars it has. I know that some of the later models did not have 9 bars
Mine only has 6 bars.
Not sure if anyone is touched on this and if I am being redundant in this thread sorry. Has anyone approached having a larger better easier to read gas gauge either analog or digital? Surely there is some kind of sensor coming off the gas tank to the front instruments. Has anyone thought of or actually set up and extra more readable fuel gauge? I for one would love to have one!
Yeah, that bar graph gauge is pretty bad. Needs to be bigger/longer and more segments. I do like samowens44 and use the range indicator.
I wasn't sure if you meant the front section where the hinges are or where the front or back latches were located. I've shown in green two areas that are sub frames and not part of the core frame structure. The section you have shown "should" suffice as long as you have good metal to metal contact and you have tested it out.
The ground connection. Measures zero Ohms to any other exposed frame metal I check it against.
I'm not aware of a sub frame. AFAIK (but I could be wrong) all parts of the tubular frame are welded together.
I think I just realized what the issue is. I never put a gremlin bell on the sling 
If you say so
I was an electronics tech in the Navy for 10 years, and a two-way radio tech for the DOT for 3 years, and I'm a general class HAM radio operator, so I like to think I'm not completely full of s**t 
OK! I am just asking why. All that you need is one of those cheap volt meters.
I have a couple of cheap volt meters. But you have to put them in series to check current and most are limited to 10 amps or so. Plus, most of them have a separate set of jacks for milliamps and amps. The millimap jack is usually fused at around 300-400 mA. If you put that inline in a circuit that only draws 200mA your fine, unless that circuit pulls more than that when it first energizes (charging capacitors, etc.) Then it blows the fuse in the meter. An inductive amp clamp can measure 0 to 100 or more amps with no physical connection to the wire. The reason I bought the battery tester is because it can do various specialized health tests on the battery that a regular DMM can't.
Last night I reconnected the sling to the battery. This morning it's showing 12.9. So now it seems to be fine. Not a warm fuzzy feeling. Will definitely be carrying a jump starter from now on...... I also order a battery tester and a clamp on ammeter so I can check the current draw with the battery connected, while starting, with the engine running, etc..
How is the fuse block grounded?
To one of the bolts one of the the hood latches, which is welded to the frame.
is the 13ma with everything hooked back up? The one thing I would wonder about is the Digital Guard Dawg - I would assume that to do its job it must have power at all times.
As a side note the last time my battery needed replacement I decided to buy one of these - Car battery tester - figured it would be nice to be able to know when a battery was shot without having to take it to be tested
Actually, that was minus the curb alert. Hooked it back up. Now pulling 21mA with curb alert, pedal commander and digital dawg all hooked up. Still not enough to explain it discharging that much in a week. Very strange. Thanks for the tip on the battery tester. Might pick one up.
Well, the tender was able to resurrect the battery. Showing 13 volts at the battery right after I unplugged the tender. I put an ammeter inline at the battery. Only 13 milliamps. Some quick googling and it looks like the OEM sling battery is rated at about 30ah. That would last more than 2 months supplying 13 mA. In this situation it went from a full charge to under 6 volts in a week. Something else is going on. Going to leave the battery disconnected for a couple of days and see if the charge falls off with no load. Maybe it's just defective.
SZurlo I would start by having the battery tested after charging. You didn't mention the battery's age but if it tests good then you can proceed to eliminate other possible culprits. Normally the pedal commander is only on when the key is on but unsure how that plays with digital guard dawg. Depending on how your second fuse block is wired it could be a problem and lastly from what I've read 100 milliamperes drain over 7 to 10 days will kill this battery!
Hope this helps
This is a 2019 Slingshot. Bought it new in August, so battery age shouldn’t be a factor. My second fuse box is on a dedicated line that runs straight to the positive battery terminal. The ignition sense is taken off the back of the lighter socket in the glove box. Currently the only thing connected to it is the curb alert. I just checked it and the tender has it up to almost 10v now so maybe it can be saved. Then I just have to figure out what’s draining it..
So, during the summer I rode the sling several days a week, so didn't bother with the tender. Toward the end of the summer I added a Neutrino Aurora to power my curb alert and heated gear. Recently, I added a Pedal Commander, a Digital Guard Dawg and a USB charger with a built in voltmeter. So that is the sum total of electrically interfacing accessories on my sling. The first time I powered up the USB charger with the voltmeter I noticed it was only showing 11 and some change. I started the sling and it went up to nearly 14v, so I knew the charging system was working. I figured since the weather had cooled off and I wasn't riding as much, it just need to be on the tender more often. Since then it's been on the tender pretty much whenever I'm not riding it. BTW, the tender is the BatteryMinder 2012-AGM. The one the sling owners manual recommends. So fast forward to last weekend. I've had an ongoing issue with the Bluetooth in the Neutrino. Half the time my phone won't connect to it. I've been working with their tech support for some time on it. Last weekend they asked me to ship it back to them. I took the sling off the tender and removed the Neutrino. I reinstalled the FZ1 fuseblock I had been using before. The only thing I connected to it was the curb alert. I left the heated gear plugs and USB charger disconnected. This evening I realized I never put it back on the tender. So it's been off the tender and has not been started or ridden for a week. I plug in the tender. The "Weak Battery" light on the tender comes on and the led under the completely empty battery icon is lit. I unplug the tender, take the battery cover off and put a meter on it. 5.6V. Yikes! So now I'm waiting for the tender to (hopefully) get it back to 12.x volts. My next step is going to be to put an ammeter inline at the battery and see what the key-off current draw is. Anyone know whats "normal"? I assume less than a couple hundred milliamps, max. Anyone ever heard of a curb alert or digital guard dawg killing a battery in a week? I can't imagine how the pedal commander could be the issue, but I guess it's possible if the pedal position sensor has power all the time. Those are the only accessories installed right now. If it's not one of then, then I guess it's off to the dealer..
Since the factory mount is little more than stamped steel and is now compromised, I will be upgrading the lower mount during the off season. Will also add shims.
Just need to shop for a new mount.
Earlier in this thread Dave@DDMWorks said they would provide the correct sized spacers to anyone that needed them. Then you wont need shims.
I checked mine.
Never really noticed when I installed the shocks but, I was focused on finishing so I could get out for a ride.
With the factory shock mount, they just bend in to make contact.
I can see this as a problem if you have a more rigid aftermarket mount.
I just wasn't comfortable with the amount of bending that would have to happen to make it fit. And if one side bent more than the other then the shock bottom would be slightly off center and suspension loads would not be applied in a straight line from top to bottom.
