Posts by Mateo

    When the system is empty or you do not know how low the coolant level is, you would need to pull the top radiator hose at the engine and fill from there. If you are filling at the overflow tank you will need to check the tank level each time the engine is cool and refill the tank each time the fluid level is low. You will have to keep doing this until there is very little difference in the hot and cold levels. When the level stays consistant every time you check the level when cold the system is full. I have friends that have done mechanic work all their lives that still think you are supposed to pull the radiator cap to fill the system. The so called overflow tank is there to remove all of the air from the cooling system. Sure it is an overflow tank but that is not it's true purpose. In the old systems before we used the pressurized tank the cooling system always had air in it and the system did not cool as good. That is why in today's cooling systems we can run smaller radiators and there is very little air in the system. I hope that I have explained this good enough for everyone to understand. If ANYONE can explain this better please do. THIS SHOULD BE IN THE DIY SECTION if anyone can move this please do.

    Thank you FunCycle

    Could you possibly provide a picture of where/ location i need to start the fill process?

    Do i fill the overflow tank as well?

    while driving the SS a few weeks back on a really hot day, i started to hear an off sound, pulled over and realized the coolant was leaking and the tank was empty.

    Obviously i need to replace the tank/hose, but when filling the tank up on the passenger side, can you put any coolant in the tank?


    I work in Transportation and Logistics, you're going to want to look for a hotshot driver to haul it.

    If you want, give me the zipcode for pick up and zip code for delivery and I'll look into getting you an option to consider

    Thanks all for the feedback, so far after pushing the hood towards the windshield (didn't seem to budge though...) the squeaking has stopped and has not returned since last Saturday. I do keep an ear open to listen to see if it is going to come back, but so far we are good to go.

    I will say... It seems that my belt is rubbing in a certain spot. First off... The belt noise is very loud... Much louder than my 2016.5 SL...

    When I am slow rolling (stop and go traffic) or slowing down to turn, you can hear and feel a certain section of the belt rub(?) and then it will go around the cycle and then rub again.

    Any types on that would be greatly appreciated as that's the only "cringe worthy" thing getting to me at the moment.

    Did V-SHOT s not work out?

    It did, in a sense... he said he was out of town and would get with me when he got back to send it, but haven't heard back from him yet.

    That was back on the 9th when we spoke. I suppose it is possible that he hasn't returned yet...?

    It's been 2 weeks MiM ! I have no patience lol. The speakers are the last thing I need

    Cycle the start sequence about 4-5 times. Or you could just start it and drive a bit. Will probably go away. You can also disconnect the battery for about 10 min. That usually clears codes too but starting it and driving usually clears them and is a lot easier.

    Also, welcome to the forum. Sorry you are having difficulties so early.

    What dangerdarrell said

    Had the same issue after adding engine mods and toying with the ignition back and forth

    Took off driving and it just randomly kicked off and didn't have issues since.


    Are you having to use a digital gear box for shifting gears? Forgive the ignorance... I was literally JUST talking to a co-worker 2 weeks ago about wondering if it was possible of adding a paddle shifter... Then I see you doing this...! Amazing and want to know how to get it done.

    It is 99.99% most likely out of my price range to do this, but we both were curious as to how to get it done.

    I didn't like what I felt was a too-steep approach angle on some of the ramps I saw, so I made my own using 2x4s & 2x10s. See attached PDF. I don't use the ramps as much anymore and use a floor-jack to lift the Slingshot to place jack-stands if working on the wheels. The tire blocks give a little more clearance underneath since they're under the wheels instead of the frame and are less likely to tip than jack-stands due to their wide bases. Additional 2x4 layers can be added to the wheel blocks for additional clearance, assuming you can lift the Slingshot high enough to get the blocks under the wheels. Commercial products can be cheaper when you consider your labor and materials costs, but I enjoyed thinking about and making the ramps and blocks.


    That is great work BKL