Posts by bdye

Saw someone selling a Ride Command unit. I’ve always preferred that over aftermarket mainly because of the integration and info it can display plus being fully waterproof.

I have a 2019 “S” model with a Pioneer, amps and speakers everywhere. I’m wondering if I can install ride command? What harness would I need (if any) to make it “plug in” to my Sling, and I assume i’d get A SlingMods harness to get RCA outputs to my amps.

Sorry if this has been answered, I searched around but didn’t find anything specific besides retrofitting them into the 15-17’s.

I, too am interested in a set of the OP covers. I’ve always wanted to delete my fenders but don’t like the holes underneath. I can’t cut to save my life, so trying to make my own would just be a massive waste of time and materials.

If anyone is selling something like the OP, let me know ASAP!

Quote from Slingrazor

Look at my photo album and you will see plenty of pictures, the white one shows it best.

Would you care to share some details on what you did to finish it?

Looks like you used a multi tool to almost literally "shave" it off versus just cutting it off with a Dremel or something? Then attach a plate under the plastic and I assume bondo or fiberglass the void and sand, sand, sand, sand, sand until it's smooth and flat?

Im keeping the pods, as I have the speaker pods there. Just looking to ditch the fin.

My god it looks so much better!

And...finectomy!? Thats great lol

So after a recent meet in Indiana, a fellow Sling owner was telling me how he is going to shave his fin off, and get rid of the "pods" under the roll hoops. I was realllllly interested in how this would look. I've seen a couple crappy pictures online and loved it.

Have you done it? Care to share some pics? Im currently dipped Concord Grape but already itching to peel it off and do something else, but i'm really interested in shaving the fin off. Im not much of a bodywork guy, but I know the basics, and i'm sure I could do it with some pointers.

After cutting it off, what are you using to fill the gap in the panel, adhere it and make it smooth?

Thanks for the suggestions guys, i've looked, yanked, wiggled, shaken and jerked the thing around. It is not making contact with ANYTHING unless it's moving over an inch+ which I would find extremely hard to believe.

I emailed 1320 the day I last responded on here, haven't heard a word.

I've been into car audio since middle school, but this Slingshot throws me for a big loop.

I have a few questions! Your thread is very helpful.

So the thin wire coming from the alt isn't going to the battery, but to the starter? I was (today..) actually heading out to the garage to do a "Big Three" upgrade, and making a (fused) 4 AWG run from the Alt to the battery. Is that not necessary? Just alt to starter?

Also - is there any way to boost the alternator output from 13.5/6 to the normal 14+ volts? That 1 volt can make a huge difference in efficiency of the amps. Right now, with headlights and the radiator fan on, it'll drop from 13.5 to 13.2/3 which is ridiculously low to me. Thats not even when i'm cranking the music. I have two 4 channel amps and a monoblock for a sub behind the seat. Probably 2800w RMS total, but never actually cranking it like that, i'd guess 1000-1500w more realistically while playing.

*Edit:

I was just out there buttoning my rear deck back on and popped the hood to check out that wire. Where the hell does it even go!? I can't find it after about 6" it disappears into a void of wires. Mines a 2019 if that makes a difference. Still can't get over how thin that wire is.

So the rattle is internal. All springs are installed as instructions show, baffle or no baffle it rattles under any acceleration sometimes even at idle.

Huge bummer...it sounds so good minus the rattle.

(It’s a catless setup by the way)

I’ll try it without the baffle. I really cranked those screws but it definitely could be that.

I have checked clearance all around it, and can’t get it to hit anything. I removed the heat shield bracket that it originally rattled on but this seemed to develop after a day or so of riding.

I’m gonna have it up on stands today doing wheel lights so I’ll give it a look over. I’d really hate to get rid of it, I absolutely love the exhaust note.

Installed a “new” 1320 V2 pipe and muffler on my 2019 just a few days ago. It was bought by an older couple who literally had it on for one drive and immediately didn’t want it because it was too loud. Still had that nasty “new exhaust” burning pipe smell.

I have the biggest baffle in and absolutely love the exhaust note and noise level, but I have a rattle now. All 3 bolts are tight and all 3 springs are properly installed. It will not rattle if I shake it or hit it, it’s literally only while driving and accelerating lightly like if I have the cruise on around 45 and the road has an incline or something.

It’s progressively gotten louder over the last few trips. I’ve put probably 400 miles on it in the past week.

Am I screwed? Are there any fixes? Warranty for secondhand buyers?

Just picked up a barely used 1320 V2 setup (not the headers)

they had all the stuff but he mentioned where the “cat” bolts to the manifold that there’s a gasket and some sort of crush ring that you have to buy separately.

I can’t just reuse what’s on my stock exhaust? Does anyone know of any part info that local auto parts stores would carry? I really don’t wanna order online and wait two weeks

Awesome! Sounds super simple, thanks for the help!

I’ll post pics if my idea is possible. (Would be awesome if they were 3528 chips, as I have probably 300+ of every color on hand)

I have some ideas on modifying my cluster, but am curious as to how it’s removed.

I’m not near my sling right now but I’m hoping to have a game plan on popping it out when I get off work.

I am looking to modify the backlighting. I’m sure it’s LED chips on the board, I’m very familiar with customizing them in other clusters, even going with RGB lighting.

Just stumped on how to actually get the cluster out lol

LOL! I haven't been on here in a few days, I will most likely wait until this Winter when its parked to install the temp gauge. I really wanted the MaxTow gauge from Amazon, I loved the design, aesthetics and the fact that it has both an analog needle readout plus a digital readout on the gauge. However...reviews are VERY mixed. Lots of troubles with that GlowShift brand. $70 isn't a lot of money, but its also more than I care to throw around hoping I get a part that works as long as it should.

I have a dual relay setup to trigger my Pioneers backup camera trigger.

One relay didn't work, it would constantly have the radio triggered. Someone on this forum posted how to do it with 2 relays, and i've had it setup for about 2 years now. Used the wire feeding the left taillight.

Quote from OrangeSlingFL

i would just assume by common sense in an open cockpit vehicle everyone would be using marine grade amplifiers ( by common sense ). I am sure it can be done with regular amps but personally i wouldn’t do it. Would you put non marine grade stuff on your boat? No you wouldn’t.

Yeah, I actually would - and do. I have not used any "marine" grade equipment in my boat installs. Haven't had a single issue. Ever.

Marine grade doesn't mean waterproof FYI.

Quote from Dave@DDMWorks

The upper radiator hose is 1.25" or 32mm.

Are you positive its 32mm? In @wokka's thread, he said he used a 34mm adapter, so I had that in my cart to order, but want to be sure before buying.

Thanks for the info, by the way. Much appreciated! I guess it doesn't really matter until its up to operating temp anyways, I was just thinking it might only be accurate when the tstat is open so I would only have accurate readings while it was flowing and then inaccurate again until it opened back up.

What coolant do we run stock? Im sure ill spill some trying to drain it down,

Also - just placed an order on DDM Works' site (well, earlier today) for a short throw and ultimate shift knob! Can't wait to get those things installed!

Quote from wokka

I think most people just put it on the upper hose going to the radiator. It's not 100% accurate until the engine is warmed up, but good enough for me. I have details on my install, plus a few other goodies at Gauge install

Let me know if you have any questions

Thanks for the info. I suppose I can use that hose, just out of curiosity though, how does the gauge act until you hit operating temp? I assume it’s technically only accurate when the thermostat is open?

I believe I read somewhere that you can manually turn the fan on by using a ground trigger on its relay. Would make sense because the headlight relays also use a ground trigger.

I don’t know where the relay is or if it only works on certain years but i’d like to modify mine with a switch as well, when I’m sitting in traffic or a drive thru, the ambient temp gauge skyrockets because the engine bay gets so hot, and it’s way before the radiator fan will kick on.

I don’t know a single Sling running marine stuff in our local group of 30+.

Just be smart about where you mount them. Under the seat? Elevate them a little bit. Under the rear fin? Run a bead of silicone under the fin so no water can seep down.

Failsafe? Storage bins. I’d just Cut a small hole and possibly run a small 12v computer fan in there to keep some cool air moving around.