Posts by studiopeg

    Since you're not connecting a light, just connect the Pink and Yellow wires to the center and one of the outer posts. See my Post # 13. Here's the starter switch page from my 2015-17 Slingshot Service manual -


    Knowing that shorting the Pink and Yellow wires in the connector that normally plugs into the connector to the starter button starts the engine, I assume the OEM switch uses the Pink wire to supply power to the switch where the power is split to power the light with the ground wire completing the circuit for the light and the switch itself connects the incoming power to the Yellow wire that triggers the starter motor.

    To test for yourself, just turn the ignition key to the Run position and then short the Pink and Yellow wires in the dash and the engine should start.

    THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I found a double momentary rocker switch in my basement. I don't see any reason why I can't use it for the start button, since there won't be anything assigned to one of the positions.


    I think what I should do is cut the start button wires near the start button to leave the length and the quick connect. Then either use blade connectors to slip on the blades, or solder the wires to the blades.


    There are 3 blades on the back - top, middle, bottom. I just need to figure out where each of the three starter wires need to go on the switch. i.e., I want it to start when I press the bottom.

    Not sure what you mean by "blade". I'm presuming the electrical connection on the back of the switch? In a non-lighted momentary, you will have at least 2 blades - + & -. In a lighted, depending Dependent or Independent, you will have a 3rd or 4th to run the light. This portion of their data sheet shows what you will have.


    Thanks yeah electrical connectors on the back = blades (in my head) LOL

    Kewl, make sure you change both the LED and the lens color (otherwise you'll get an amber led under a red lens). You could also try a clear lens if you can't find amber.


    Also, you may not need the light unless you just really really want it. IMO, your thumb is going to be over the light when you press the button anyways, so unless you just like seeing a light shine through your thumb, it isn't going to do much. You could also change the 9th position in the code for orientation to have the light on at all time a by changing from B (for dependent) to D (for independent)

    yep I did change it to the amber code in both places. And I also saw a note on their page that says “no dependent illumination with momentary” so it would have to be independent. So I will have to change that code too.


    ONE MORE QUESTION PLEASE: since there will be momentary action in one position, no action in the middle, and OFF in the third position, doesn’t that only leave me two only useable blades? Or would this configuration come with a fourth blade?

    chavey2: how can I thank you and your wonderful brain? I'm just gonna change that configuration to amber and off we go. THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Peg, I have a Digital Dog with two remote "fobs" that I'm not going to use. I took it off my Slingshot before selling last fall. It has a rocker switch that fits in the normal slots. It is either "On", or "Off". It looks for the fob, but if the fob is asleep, you just press the button in the center of the fob. It worked great for me, although I did need to press the button quite often on the fob. The other fob (I put it somewhere I'd never forget.... and now need to look for it) is new and never used. I'd make you a great deal on it if you are interested. PM me here or Facebook, my link is on the avatar/profile pic info. It is plug and play, just plugs into the wiring for the original ignition switch.

    Thanks I'm mulling this over. I don't like to carry things in pockets so am not sure. I will keep it in mind as I'm not sure I am going to find a rocker that will do the trick.

    Y'all checked my thread "The DEFINITIVE thread on Slingshot Electrical Switches"?


    I'll keep it simple: The link you have for the Otto K1 Momentary switch should work for an ignition switch. You can also find ones with lights on them if you want. Check out Mouser.com too.

    Bear with me.... I looked at that and tried to figure out a momentary switch (most of them have A-B-C positions - just as long as ONE position is momentary I don't care about the other positions.... would like one position to be momentary ILLUMINATED (independent as there are no dependent ones offered).


    I can't figure it out. I sent it off to my electronics friends who programmed all my routers and does such stuff for a living, and he can't figure it out. It just doesn't seem clear how to configure and order a momentary switch with a light...............


    https://peerlesselectronics.com//files/K1ABCAAAAA.pdf

    The Polaris Start switch does indeed use 3 wires, Pink, Black/White and Yellow or Yellow/White. I'd assume* one wire is ground (probably black) and the other two wires probably power the light in the Polaris Switch and complete the starter circuit when momentarily depressed. Operating under this assumption, I switched the ignition key to the Run position, depressed the clutch and tried shorting out the Pink and Black wires and the engine did not start, but my headlights turned off (they came back on once I recycled the ignition key from Off to Run). I then tried shorting the Yellow and Black wires with the same result. When I shorted the Pink and Yellow wires together, the engine started! This means using a non-illuminated 2-wire Momentarily ON switch should work and start the engine if you connect the Pink and Yellow wires from the connector to the 2 connectors on the switch............

    SO HELPFUL THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Lots of great help here!


    So how'd the dash get damaged?

    My local dealership had a guy who quit. He went out on his own (for a while...). I hired him to put a double din in and I did not know it required complete removal of the dash. He cut my Tufskinz and the metal decorative covering underneath and ripped some of it off which left damage. In trying to get the rest of it off since it looked like *&$, more damage was done. One reason why I ask a lot of questions in here, to learn to do it myself.

    Someone makes a garage door opener with a momentary rocker switch that fits our dash panel. Maybe you can contact them and just by the switch....

    thanks appreciate that. I have that switch already it is only two pins. The ignition needs three. I sure wish my dash had never gotten damaged!

    PEG not sure exactly what you're looking for but found a few on Amazon. Might try napa also, they handle a lot of switches. also delcity.net is a source

    thank you. Yes there are quite a few out there but most, like this one, are too wide for our slingshot switch holes.

    I had dash damage so a double din was donated to cover it (thank you!) and it required severely cutting my dash. I have the option of drilling a new hole to relocate the ignition switch, but would rather put in a switch that will fit in our standard switch slots.


    This is the only switch I can find that might work. Would prefer something else but if this is all, then I’ll have to get this.


    https://peerlesselectronics.com/k1abcaaaaa-switch

    I am done. I have had Phil's hood pins for a year now, and have been through at least 7 people saying they will look and then saying nope they will not install!


    Gonna sell them!