WARNING! DO NOT WORK ON A HOT COOLANT SYSTEM!
If you attempt the following with a stock coolant overflow tank, you risk breaking the connection nipple from the tank!
Plausible deniability: Just because I did it doesn't imply that you should. (I like jumping off bridges)
Level of difficulty: Zippy ties, Scissors. (and maybe chewing gum)
Total cost: Zippy ties. (you can borrow the scissors)
When I was installing my DDMWORKS coolant tank, I took a serious look at the coolant hoses and was contemplating the steam hose replacement kit. That was when I noticed where the coolant overflow hose dumps. If you haven't looked, if it spews, the coolant will dump directly into the belts at the front of the engine. If your engine is running at that time, that will make an even bigger mess of the engine compartment.
The first pic shows the original routing. It is the large hose that connects below the coolant tank cap. This is a no pressure, no coolant, open line..
The second pic shows the total re-route... (simplistic line drawings)
Third pic... I ran the hose underneath and following the inner most steel tube. Zippy tying as needed and allowing for slack in the wiring of the O2 sensor.
Fourth pic... I then ran the hose down the front of the inside of the pressed steel frame where the upper and lower rear 'A' frames mount. In the pic where my finger points are two pre-drilled holes... I used these to secure the end of the hose.
Fifth pic... Final termination point... the shiny block to the right is the motor mount... this now dumps a blow off forward of the motor mount cross frame and at the ground.
Tried to keep it simple and there probably is a better way to route this hose... feel free to experiment.
Most important thing to carry away from this... point that loaded hose some place safe. Something as simple as a cracked coolant tank cap seal is gonna mess up your bay. 
Remember when you wished you were older? How's that working out for you now??? 