Posts by mniron

    This is a fix for condensation in the signal lights in lieu of replacement. Once you are out of warranty you most likely will not replace the signal lights unless needed to function. I had both of my signal lights replaced under warranty for this very reason only for the replacements to do the same thing a year or so later. While at Rallies I have seen many with the same problem. My OCD cannot allow moisture to collect behind the lens without doing something about it. My signal lights would get so much moisture in them the water would collect in the front corner forming a puddle. I decided I had nothing to lose by trying to fix it myself by drilling holes where the water was collected in the front corner to drain and then one hole at the rear of the light to ventilate. This was done well over a year ago and the result is clear, dry lenses with no side effects of them being functional.


    The first picture is two 5/32” drill bits inserted in the front corner of the signal light showing the location where I drilled to drain the water out. The next two pictures are the location of the 5/32” hole drilled at the rear of the signal light to ventilate. This has kept my signal lights dry and clear since.

    I haven't been goofing off. I lost internet here at the house for a while yesterday and I could not even get into Adobe Illustrator because it was trying to reach out to the server and verify I was the owner. Im not sure I like not actually owning my software. I pay 20 dollars a month for the Adobe Illustrator product but I am only renting it I guess .


    Here is the correct font..



    I believe it is best that the artwork is kept exclusive to slingshotinfo.com and then it stands out on its own. This one is my favorite and represents this site well.

    @mniron is that logo one that you made? If so may I have permission to use it? And if you don't mind me using it can you send the vector file of it to info@slingshotinfo.com


    One last thing.... have you ever had to reduce it down to a pocket size logo? I have 4" of width and 2.4" of height. And our of that I have to put the website name. So your logo is going to be 1.8" tall by 4" wide. The rest will be text.

    This is the image that I use on the shirt pocket, I have not done that size in embroidery. I think the image of the hood is to square for the pocket.



    I am not sure who’s logo is in the post that @MiM referenced.

    @rabtech


    Embroidery looks okay but...
    If you don't know the slingshot front end, you won't recognize it. Because of the little real estate the logo owns, don't know if something better could be done. I did like the flowing line outlines that @mniron offered/displays but don't know if that is available or would look better in a stitched embroidery.



    Here is an example that a customer embroidered

    only way I would do this would be to have them installed - I can do many things, but making holes in my Sling - - - =O


    I'm with ya, hate to have a oops moment with hole saw. :cursing:

    Can’t go wrong with hood buttons. I must say the DIY guy can do the install. The instructions that PHIL has put together is super. You have pics and written instructions. To quote a phrase YOU CAN DO IT YOURSELF. Is so true with his instructions and even call him he will walk you through it.
    Just get them you will not regret this mod.


    JUST SAYIN

    The V3 DIY Fender Button Kits are the easiest installs to date!

    I wanted them installed at Eureka Springs last year but the dude that installs could not make it. Hoping he comes this year. My SS tries to fly with my heavy foot and Oklahoma winds I swear the damn fenders and going to break off.

    Sorry I didn’t make it last year, I am planning the trip this year!

    IMO both the Madstad and the DDMWorks hinge extension work very well. I currently have the Madstad hinges and have never had any issues with them, I however love the looks of the DDMWorks hinges. Compare the two side by side to make your choice.


    When I install the Fender Buttons I now make a number of hood latch adjustments as part of the my installs. There is some that need parts replaced but most are a few simple adjustments.


    The latest version of the Fender Buttons allows full adjustments to allow for hinges to be installed afterwards.

    Looks like the JR-I will not give you as soft a ride as the QA-1's. So if you want a real soft ride you will have to get the QA-1 shock, I have not seen that being said before

    This does not surprise me after you said your settings were 45/40! To me that is really soft and I never had anything to compare it to like yourself. But I did see how they compared on the shock dyno at Maggie 2 years ago.

    A firmer Sway Bar does not negatively affect ride comfort of your shocks but gives you the firmness so you have less body roll.

    Installing the JR-I shocks tomorrow. I do not see where anyone has posted the clicker settings they have been using. I am looking for a starting point on the double adjustable or some info. Thanks

    Start at full firmness(+) then click softer(-) 30 clicks for front and 35 for rear. This will give you a start setting. Then you can adjust for your driving style. I used to run firmer than that until I installed DDM Sway Bar with an added hole for firmness, since I have set my shocks as stated in the first line.


    This is the way I set my shocks but I think I remember that the initial setting should be done from the full softness on the JRi shocks. Maybe someone else could weigh in. @xd675x ?

    Looking to upgrade brakes on Slingshot and wonder if any one is using their Kit??
    How is braking with just larger brakes in front ?


    My thoughts are not enough weight on rear for using bigger brakes for street use.


    Would like to hear what others have to say on issues??

    I have run Stoptech BBK on the front only for 2+ years with no issues, love the stopping power. Installed Hawk 5.0 pads on the rear and feel that is very adequate.

    Oh, keep me in mind for your used stuff please... Still eager to get better rotors... @mniron, did you get a source for any SLR rotors? @Dave@DDMWorks? No rush, but would like to plan ahead... :thumbsup:

    I currently have 5 slightly used SLR rotors drilled, one full set of three and one set of just fronts. One set of three OEM pads and one set of two Hawk 5.0 pads. Drilled SLR rotors are $100 each or SLR exchange $50 each. Shipping not included.