Here is the latest update that will be going out, there may be some spelling, grammatical changes, etc.
Posts by Dave@DDMWorks
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Dave - maybe I missed it but can you provide a link to sign up to this mailing list please?
I would like to join it as well.
Apologies if it's in the thread, but I am not finding it...
Ignore - I found it myself =)
Here is the link to the website and the sign up for the updates -
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If you are on the mailing list, there will be an update going out later today. If not, I will post the update here once I finish editing it a little bit
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Polaris Slingshot Owners...
Here is the post... The Posters name is Tyler Garrett
Yesterday I finally installed these 2 way Monotube Coilovers by DDMWorks after getting on a Black Friday. Can I drop it 1 inch in height all the way around without putting too much tension on belt or would I need an adjustment after? I’m also curious on the dampening adjustment to get a ride that will be best on curvy roads. I am new to adjusting shocks so I have emailed DDM with some more questions but haven’t got a reply back yet.
Yeap, we saw his email the following morning, it came in around 10pm the previous night, got him taken care of first thing in the morning and talked to him on the phone, he is all good to go
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There was a question today on FB that made me think about this...
If one uses the adjustable shocks and lowers or raises the Slingshot does the belt need to be adjusted because it would be too loose or too tight?
Thanks
It may or may not need adjustment, really depends on how tight or loose the belt was previously. Since the belt tension on the 3 wheel Slingshots can be kinda all over the place from dealers, it really is something that should be checked and when doing the coilovers and changing ride height, that is a pretty good time to check, just to make sure.
Another thing to check is the alignment, once again, typically when installing coilovers and changing the ride height slightly, alignment changes probably are not needed, but it is a good time to check that also. Once again, from the dealers we see the stock alignments all over the place also, so a good idea to look at it.
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Well are you going to give the name of this foof?
That is Buddy, pretty sure he mainly just comes to work for the food
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Our Faithful guard dog protecting a project we are working on
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Has anyone purchased the Powdercoated intake and valve covers from Rev Dynamics? Need to know if I need to order a gasket kit or if they include it.
On the 2020+ engines there is a gasket that can be swapped over to the new intake and valve cover. On the ones we powdercoat we do not supply a new gasket, not sure if Mitch is supplying one or not though. They are very pretty though powdercoated - https://www.ddmworks.com/2020-…take-Manifold_p_3038.html
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.......so my rear speed bleeder came in and now it's time to get some bleeding on......and again thanks to Dave@DDMWorks for the heads up on the different calipers on these slingshots , my front weren't the same as the rear and this site came to the rescue once again......
I am just glad this came up, I had no idea that there were 2 different calipers depending on the year, but now we know
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It felt like it was engaging and was hesitant to push any harder will take another look when I get home from the "job".
Sounds good, if you have any questions while looking at it, we have the techline with us after hours 864-907-6004.
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bump stops are not even touching.
Not sure if you figured it out by now, but in the one picture showing the silver latch on the Slingshot frame, the hood looks like it is still not latched in the pic. You can give us a call also at 864-907-6004 for tech support or email direct to - Dave@ddmworks.com
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How much exactly does one have to remove to get to the upper bolt from the back...
Technically, you do not have to remove anything to get to the upper bolt for the rear shock in the back. There is a hole in the passenger side storage compartment behind the seat that allows you to get to the head of the bolt. That said, it can be tough to hold the shock up in place, align the bolt just right and get the threads to start. If you do it on a regular basis, you can do it, but otherwise, sometimes removing the rear plastic makes it actually easier and quicker than trying to fight the installation.
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I love this forum, so many helpful people
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Welcome to the forum! Like 3GunSteve said, that top is definitely something I have never seen before either. Never really thought about airbrushing on the canvas like that, hopefully you will make it out to some events and show that off, I am sure a lot of people would love to see it. If you have any questions about your Slingshot, let us know, happy to answer them for you, otherwise have a great time with the new toy!
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Thanks dave@ddmworks are the rubber orings generic that I can pick up at any auto parts store?
You can use any rubber O-ring that is roughly the same dimension. They are there to keep the shock from moving around only, so they kinda act like a little damper for side to side movement.
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I got the front shocks on and new air filter. Took all of 20 minutes. Put the wheels back on and will torque after I take off lift. The rear shock was a failure. I kept trying to get the upper mount done first. I couldn't get the bushings to fit in the bracket and I lost the rubber ring on one. Looked for an hour but could not find it. So I finally switched bushings and the upper would slide right in the bracket. When I sent the shocks to jri to be rebuilt I had the bushings zip tied in place. Wonder if they switched them by mistake after rebuild? I'll head to the auto parts store in hunt for a new rubber ring tomorrow. Also enlist a friend to help with rear shock. Too much snow to risk going today.
When doing the back shock, it is a lot easier if you remove the plastic panel under the deck and loosen the bolts holding the plastic panel that the shock goes through. Then you can reach right in and put that upper bolt in without much work at all. It takes a little more time to do, but sounds like you have plenty of time up there right now with the weather. As for the spacers, you want the wider ones on the bottom and the narrow ones up top.
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Is this an issue on later Slings that you are aware of?
Nope, there is a lot more clearance between the engine and hood on the 2020+ models
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...which screw are you talking about....I used caliper paint and did my oem cover but wanted one powder coated , didn't have any issues with a screw .......
The front screw that holds the plastic center vent on the hood. On some Slingshots it sits closer to the engine than others. We have some Slingshot's that come in and the screw will leave a little dent on the top of the valve cover, on other Slingshots it never gets close to it, just depends on your particular Slingshot.
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E J, You've met Dave before. He's the guy with the donuts covered with SPRINKLES
mmm, Krispy Kreme, my favorites
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Smooth Slingshots are IN ....LOL ,,,,,I have a Smoothie and removed the wing for less drag....
Now lets put some Lead in the alumium swing arm casting and get some traction...Hmmmm ???
And thinking of going to Maggie Valley ..Hope Dave at DDM can work with me there....
Going to call for room tomorrow.
I saw your message, give a call tomorrow and we can see what we can do to help you at Maggie