Its primary competitor is the KTX XBow. I would take either one of them

At face value, that would not be legal. His tax would be due on 25K. Personally, I understand the logic and HATE tax on tax on tax in your case, but I would be cautious. That said, your risk as seller is more minimal than his or hers. If I knew someone well, I might sell a slinshot without tires/rims for 12.5K. Then sell each tire, rim, and lugnut. I note, this is the reason that Biden is now requiring every electronic transactian (eg paypal or venmo) to be reported above 600.

Quote from SoCal

I know! It is sold on the slingmods site and is "For the slingshot" But I have not found a way to rearrange the picture - Kinda looking a gift horse in the mouth thought don't think??

Turn my phone upside down...??

Go to the link https://my-fobo.com/uploads/fo…rGuidever2_4_04032016.pdf at foo, page 14. You have a choice of normal trike and reversed trike (can Am type picture, but two wheels on the front). The downside, you have to start from adding a new bike to choose reverse trike. That means you will also have to release the sensors from the current bike/configuration and reinstall. Maybe aa 10 min job.

Quote from Shatneyman

Thank you for your help, I'm really simple and got lost after "see". I might have to go to the local radio guy with the recommended stuff and see what he says. The set up I have right now keeps cutting out, and after a few minutes it comes back on. Not sure if I have something hooked up wrong or if my amp is damaged or both. , When the music cuts out, you can still hear the bass, it's just not as pronounced. It will work fine if I don't turn it up. Maybe too much power going though the amp? That's why I was going buy new.

Normally cutting out is 1) Power cable issue 2) Speaker wire(s) shorted together or ground, or 3) too much load on amp overheating it. 1 is unlikely since it sounds sub works. 2 is unlikely, since would cut out more often. 3 is likely issue, meaning you could be exceeding max amp power or the impedance (kind of resistance) of the speakers presented to the amp is too low and draw too much current.

I did not see what amp you have now, but above comment about seeing an audio shop before buying is probably good. Sounds like you are running 4 subs and 4 full range speakers....that is ALLOT for most amps, and designing how the speakers are wired could easily be too low impedance for the current amp. Even with a JL Audio if you end up there will need to make sure speakers are wired properly to avoid issue you have now. A shop will cut into budget, but more likely to get it right the first time. That said, if you have someone who has done a few installs nearby adding an amp is pretty easy....just will need to think through speaker wiring to get it right

Good luck.

Quote from Shatneyman

This is the amp I found,.. is it good? Cost about $850-$900

JL Audio M800/8v2 800W RMS 8-channel Marine Amplifier

JL Audio builds excellent amps. I've had their 500W for several years and works perfectly. They are not cheap, but high quality and sound great.

Quote from FunCycle

You are not telling me much that I have not tried. I am 73 years young and have worked on cars and motorcycles since my first motorcycle rebuild around 1965. I have the plastic ramps, the metal ramps and the wood ramps that I built years ago to get the 67 Corvette off of the ground. In the play room I have found it easier to just use the floor jack and the jack stands. Jack stands, I think I have 8 each 6 ton and maybe six 3 ton

Sorry for describing what worked for me......Maybe will help others. I have a slick floor and works like a charm for me..

Quote from FunCycle

Yes, I do not use the ramps anymore because of the problems

If the ramps are on a slick floor, like most garage floors, they often slide. If the are on something rougher, like normal surface cement, they work great. I use mine in the garage, and place them on a large carpeted mat with rubber backing. Completely solved my issue with sliding.

Quote from studiopeg

I've bookmarked that in case this doesn't work. But how can I go wrong with a bag of MiracleGrow on it!

As a note, the old part number shows for 2015s and 2016s, with a switch over in 2016......my guess is the switch came with the 2016.5s. Yours is a 2017, so the correct part number per the Polaris tool is 5453137. I would NOT buy the old part, no ideas what changed but yours certainly came with the new dash. the new parts could be simply improved manufacturing, or could be fitment.

If your approach with just sun does not work, a heat gun on low would likely be best. Just be careful not to melt. To be safer, could try it first with a hair dryer to brig temps up from ambient.

Those pictures help, does look like same part, as should be. Only guess was that it got stored under pressure, say stacked and the radio opening bent out. If the vendor will not take it back, I would use a heat gun to try and heat the top of the radio opening and see it I could pull it back towards correct angle, I would heat from the bottom of the dash, but right where the radio opening attached. If done slowly so you do not melt it, reasonable chance you could correct it. That said, if vendor would take it back that would be my first choice, Know you said you put a dash overlay on, so trying the heat approach may be best available approach. Good luck

Peggy.

May ask some dumb questions.....if so, just trying to help but hard to see from pictures. Please ignore.

In your side by side pictures, the new dash has a dressing (plastic panels creating a 2 layer dash) on the right and left sides. The old dash does not appear to have this dressing. Did you move those panels from the old to the new dash? If not, can those panels be removed with a couple of pins/screws? I ask because in your first pictures it appears that the dash may be catching on something up top, keeping it from dropping in like it should. If the two dressing pieces can be easily removed, I would do so and then see if the dash fits better.

I looked at the dash between model years. 2016s (early) used a different part number, then the part was rolled to 5453137 likely with 2016.5s. That should be the part number for both your two dashes, correct?

Finally, if you take your old dash and put in back in place, does it line up as it should? The first pictures to me really look like interference, you need to get the top/front of the dash to drop down some.

Just a couple of questions......the company you ordered from does sale Polaris stock parts, and if the numbers match, would be hesitant to order a new one. It is possible one got damaged if stacked etc, but.......

Hard to believe, but the Honda spray wax is best Ive used as a detailer

Can you please shoot me a copy (PM or post here) of the install directions for a 2016.5. I have your Gen 1 and the membrane tore. Thinking about your Gen II, but want to understand what cutting is involved. Thanks

Quote from wokka

Get mytoy new conversion kit to put his newer mount into the older rides. He will even customize it to how you want. Your kenwood will fit in it I'm sure, mine does and that's what he has in his.

Agree the mytoy approach is a good idea, but I believe it takes some cutting. You can order the metal trim piece for one of the internet Polaris parts vendors. Checked one and it was $19.03 they stick on with a light/med duty adhesive.

Not sure why the original trim had to be cut for the install, but it does depend on install kit. When I installed mine, before going mytoy approach, the install kit was very tight but went in, If you get a new trim plate and have to cut it, it needs to be cut with a Dremel or similar. If you use snips or...….you will cause it to become less than flat.

Good luck

Mytoy, I have one of your mounts in a 2016.5 with a Pioneer unit, After about two months, the membrane on it ripped down the middle while the Slingshot was sitting in the garage and I was on a cruise. Middle of summer in FL, so I chalked it up to heat, although the membrane was VERY tight on install.

You mention that "and yes the membrane can be replaced", what would I need to do to order a new one, and how ward are than to install?

Thanks

Not meant as an advertisement per say, but Kerbeck Chevrolet in Atlantic City is the number one dealer of Vettes, and is taking pre-orders. The 1K deposit is refundable up until you start order on specific options. This might give you a chance to get on a list early, and if you try one and it does not fit back out.

I bought a Vette through Kerbeck, and it was super easy....took museum delivery. Could not come CLOSE to their prices. Imagine the C8s will be MSRP from them for 1st year, but they get nations largest allocation. Just have to convince my wife to let me try that approach............

Very pretty car. Can only imagine it when Lingenfelter (or DDM) get hold of it. Now the sales process starts with the wife, how can I afford to not have one...….

Ordered mine...

I would go with shocks. Completely transformed mine when I made the switch. Rides MUCH better, and handles better. The original shocks are pogo sticks at best. You will notice the shocks every time you drive.

Guys, appreciate the feedback. I do have a DDM tank, and tightened the lower hose yesterday. I put on silicone hoses, and have had a coupkle of clamps leak until tightened more than I would normally for a rubber hose. Probably have one on loose end...but will recheck the tank.

Probably a strange question, but does anyone know what color/consistency is of the stock transmission fluid for the Slingshot? I am having some spots of an "orangish" fluid down below the coolant tank and about a foot to the rear.

I can't find any signs of a coolant leak, and the level is not dropping, although the coolant I have is orange. The drops seem to be a little thicker than coolant as well, but not by much. There are a couple of spots on the transmission bell housing, but no area that looks like a leak itself.

Any ideas appreciated. It's hard to get a great view as I do not have a lift. Thanks