Posts by Kyle D

    Thank you so much for taking the time to respond in such detail, I really appreciate it. I will report back, planning to drain the angle drive, open it up and reseal it with the adhesive you linked, Im hoping that will fix it, thanks again I will report back within two weeks when I get some time and the heat cools off, its been a hot summer here in so-cal.

    No problem. Happy to help.

    The side covers are known to leak/seep. In my opinion, it is unlikely your case is cracked but it doesn't hurt to check. You can also check the yoke seal. Those also leak sometimes. If it were me, I would check the top of the case and seal but I really think your side cover is leaking. I would drain the angle drive, remove the side cover, remove any of the factory gasket material by scraping it with a plastic razor blade, then go over it with a scotch brite pad, wipe the surface down with brake clean or alcohol, put a new thin layer of RTV on there like this https://zzperformance.com/coll…ives/products/gm-adhesive which you can find at any local napa, autozone, advance auto parts, etc, put the cover back on and tighten all the bolts down to 19ft lbs. That's not a lot so you don't have to run it home with an impact. You should easily be able to get 19ft lbs with hand tools. Hope this helps. If you have any additional questions, feel free to reach out here with a DM or for a faster response (I'm only on here a couple times a day), shoot me an email at kyle@zzperformance.com


    Below is a pic of my original angle drive before we released the brace. We just use it for mock up and development at this point. But as you can see, mine split in 2 spots right on the top of the case. If you look at the angle drive where the drive shaft connects to, and picture it like a clock face, we generally see the failures between 9 and 12 o clock.



    The brown seal that I have an arrow pointing at is the seal that I mentioned that can leak. Replacing that is a pretty straight forward process that is outlined in the service manual and takes about 30-45min

    You can use the PCM from any 1st gen Slingshot in another 1st gen (2015-2019). If they have ride command, the display will show the info from the Slingshot it was pulled from like color and VIN but it will run just fine.

    It really all depends on what you’re looking for. My personal favorite street tire right now is the Falken Azenis RT660. It’s sticky and affordable and wears pretty good. It’s the go to tire right now for auto x and road course but I run them on my sling and daily driver car. They can be hard to find since it’s a popular tire so another option would be the Falken Azenis RT615K+. A nearly identical tire but it wears better. The Michelin Pilot Sport 4 is another great option. The Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 Is also a great tire. It has solid grip and also does great in wet conditions.


    If you’re looking for tons of grip the Toyo R888R is a great choice but has bad wet traction. Another one you may want to check out is the Bridgestone RE-71R. They’re not as sticky as the R888R but it’s close and lasts a lot longer. Some other sticky options would be the M&H Racemaster, Micky Thompson ET Street SS, ET Street R, or the Nitto NT05. The Nitto is really sticky but you have to get it hot. When it is cold its pretty terrible. The Micky Thompson does not require a lot of heat to get sticky. The racemasters are my current favorite but M&H said they are out of stock until Nov of this year and you have to buy 2 at a time. The M&H, MT, and Nitto I mentioned are drag radials and do wear pretty fast and are not good in wet weather.

    [quote='Edward Neal','https://slingshotinfo.com/index.php?thread/8916-what-was-today-s-sling-project-mods-goodies/&postID=373870#post373870']

    I have thought about making exhaust system changes, but the lack of performance improvements combined with my being in California always stop me. California is an interesting State when it comes to these things. technically we are not allowed to make any changes to intake or exhaust that are not C.A.R.B. (California Air Resources Board) approved and stamped, But In California the Slingshot is still legally classified an a motorcycle and as such there are no smog checks or inspections so as things currently stand unless you got a ticked for excessive noise there is no way anyone would even know I made any changes.


    But, and its a big but - this is California, and just because motorcycles are not subject to inspection today does not mean they wont change the rules tomorrow - - To me this means I must weigh the potential risk against the potential gain and as I see it the very small gain of getting rid of the CAT just doesn't make it across the line.

    [/quote]

    We actually used to offer some of our down pipes for other platforms with CA legal cats. The down side is the cost of a CA legal cat is so much more. The down pipes were $350+ because of the CA cat. But we still sold a TON of them. I remember getting multiple pallets of CA compliant cats for a while. At some point something changed. Maybe the needed CARB cert? Because sales fell off so we sold through inventory and stopped. I’m sure we could probably still get one but I don’t know that it would pass CA smog because of no CARB sticker/stamp. On a slingshot it probably wouldn’t be an issue but who knows. If you got caught you’d likely just get a report and repair where you’d be cited and have 30 days to fix it and get it inspected to pass again. And if you did that it would be a no harm no foul sort of deal. At least that’s how it was when I lived there. If you kept all of the stock parts it wouldn’t be too bad.



    ZZPerformance, Go Fast Not Broke
    EST 2000

    So I’m still looking for a cat delete pipe….. one on eBay sold by zzperformance. Then on their website says sold out????? Someone trying to make $10

    Your sale will get canceled if you order it off eBay. I will contact our eBay team to suspend the auction. Part of eBay having a higher price is due to the higher fees we are charged to sell on their platform. It is always cheaper to buy from us directly. It has absolutely nothing to do with "Someone trying to make $10". We have them but can no longer sell them.


    There are mandatory regulations that are being implemented by the EPA that are going to require all vehicles that come with cats to retain the cats when swapping out exhaust parts. If you live in a no emissions state, what you decide to do with the cat when it arrives is up to you. The EPA has not knocked on our door YET but it's coming. We are in a position where while we are not a massive company, we are large enough to be on their radar and have been in the past. So in an effort to keep the world and racing industry clean and be compliant with coming regulations, we are putting high flow cats in all of our exhausts. Now I know what you're thinking,"Boooo cats suck and restrict power!" I will respond with 2 answers. The first one being, the cat on your slingshot is not restrictive. We did A B testing and when we removed the cat we picked up .2whp. Not 2whp, point 2. The only thing that cat is doing is keeping the exhaust from reeking somewhat.


    The other part to my answer is this, we are using a similar very high flow cat on in our exhausts now which is why they are listed as sold out. We are testing and retro fitting the 200+ down pipes we have hanging in the pipe racks. We did more A B testing and there was zero difference in power production on our stage 2 turbo sling between the catted and non catted down pipe in our rear exit exhaust. The other upside to the cat? For those who cannot do a rear exit exhaust because of all the fumes coming back into the cabin associated with having a top and/or tall windshield with a rear exit exhaust, the stinky gas fumes are no longer an issue because of the cat doing its job.


    These regulations are coming down the pipe line and it will disrupt the entire aftermarket auto industry. If you're a company making exhausts without cats and the EPA finds out, you will be forced to either become compliant and add a cat or discontinue selling the exhausts.


    When you see a pricing discrepancy between sites we sell on and our main site, feel free to reach out to me directly here or at kyle@zzperformance.com. I'm happy to look into and answer the questions in an effort for you to not feel like we are being shady just trying to make an extra $10 on a different site.

    I am wanting to put a custom tune/rev limiter on my Slingshot AutoDrive to limit any aggressive driving that can not be changed or altered by the driver (my 18 year old son) when operating the vehicle. What would I need to do or need to purchase to do this? Any recommendations would be much appreciated.

    We are working on tuning for the 2020+ but do not have it available yet. I cannot speak for any other company and how they do their tuning or what software they use but here is my 2 cents. You can set a rev limiter but not a speed limiter. (Again, I cannot speak for all software. Maybe you can with another company) However, that being said, you would have to flash the tune to do that. That would require 1 of 2 things. You either have the software to flash the PCM back and forth any time your son drives it, which isn't available for sale, or you would have to buy a separate PCM and possibly TCM to swap out any time your son drives it which is a lot of messing around and not cheap. The TCM is $580 and the PCM is $700 from the dealer. Assuming you could get a shop to flash and set that up, you'd have the cost of the tuning on top of that. In theory, you could set the RPM limit to 4000RPM but he could still get to 4000RPM in 5th gear which would have him around the 120mph mark if I did the math right. However, it also may not produce enough power in 5th at that low of an RPM to push through the wind resistance to get him to that speed but you get the point. I'm not going to offer up any parenting advice or risk assessment. Those decisions are up to you.

    I know everybody says you should go here and you should go there and there’s truly an abundance of beauty in these incredible United States but here’s the big caveat - everyone should experience pacific coast highway going north to Oregon through California. I’m not sure how many times we’ve done it - lost track - but we never get tired of it.


    On the way home we came through Topanga Canyon to catch up to the 101 from Malibu. I remember as a kid reading in cycle world about this truly iconic Road. Looks like someone threw spaghetti at a map and said let’s put the roads there!

    Great pics!!! Brings back a lot of memories for me. I lived in LA for 8 years and I've gone up PCH countless times from LA to San Fran to visit my sister. Definitely one of my favorite roads in the US. I always liked going through San Luis Obispo and Monterey.


    I had some buddies with motorcycles and we would jump on PCH in Santa Monica and go up Topanga Canyon and catch the 101 to Kanan and come back down to the coast in Zuma. We'd head South and stop at Duke's for lunch/brunch before heading back home to Hermosa Beach.

    Welcome to the best forum for Slingshot info. There are a ton of knowledgeable people here always willing to help. The DIY section also has some really great stuff in it as well. If you ever have any questions feel free to reach out!

    I wanted to touch on some of @daves points.


    Brembo Advantages -


    Pedal feel will be better - The stock piston area of the stock caliper is 3.04 sq/in. The Brembo's have a total area of 4.37 sq/in and the Honda Wilwood has a total of 8.24 sq/in. Piston area determines the amount of force applied along with the amount of volume needed to move the pistons. The higher the piston area, the more volume needed to move them, but a higher force is applied. The Brembos are going to give a much more similar pedal travel to the stock setup compared to the ZZP. Both kits are fixed caliper setups that remove the slider pins and will give better pedal feel than stock anyway.


    I'm not sure how he's justifying saying that the pedal feel will be better with brembo, while also saying it will feel similar to stock.... Stock pedal feel is absolute trash. Larger piston volume gives the driver much more leverage against the brakes, reducing the required pedal force for a given stopping force, while also making them easier to manipulate (more resolution). The pedal travel on our kit vs the stock brakes is nearly identical but it works a lot better. The stock master cylinder is more than capable of moving the larger pistons of the Wilwoods because the actual caliper volume is smaller than the Brembo or the Wilwood Aero 4 calipers. This is why we work directly with the manufacturer of the calipers to ensure you are getting the most bang for the buck and components that will greatly improve stopping power without having to break the bank.



    Larger diameter rotors and thicker. That gives the Brembo kit much higher thermal capability than the smaller than stock ZZP rotors.

    Technically correct, but this isn't very applicable in this context. Almost no one is running their slingshot on a road course with 20+ minute sessions. And IF someone was, the pad selection is the first factor in the heat handling capacity


    Larger pad volume - The larger pad volume of the Brembo kit will absorb more energy and prevent thermal shocking the pad much better than a smaller brake pad and have longer lifespan.

    Again, this is simply a matter of selecting the correct pads. SFWD (Sport Front Wheel Drive) Hondas that are going 200+mph use a lot of brake, it's not all in the chute. The chute is only helping for about the first 50mph and they have no issues with rotors/calipers that fit under 15" wheels.


    Caliper designed for rotor diameter - The ZZP kit is using a caliper designed for 10.3" rotors, but is using just under stock size rotors (11.6"ish), which keeps the rotor from fitting correctly into the caliper. Not a huge deal, it will work, but the Brembo kit is designed for that size rotor and has correct caliper and brake pad fitment.

    If it fits without hitting anything, it fits. When talking exclusively about calipers that have pistons on both sides and the pads ride on pins the caliper and rotor are both locked in position.


    Center of force - Because the diameter of the rotor is larger on the Brembo, the center of force for the brake pad is located further from the center of the axle. The further out, the more mechanical advantage the brake system has on braking force.

    Yes, being farther from center WITH ALL ELSE EQUAL will increase braking force. Using this as a talking point as a benefit while earlier acknowledging that honda wilwood caliper has nearly DOUBLE the contact. It is deliberately disingenuous to focus only on distance from center as a benefit.


    One of the things we do for all of the supported platforms at ZZP that is different from a lot of companies, we make parts and upgrades that are tuned specifically to that market and application and for what the masses are doing with that vehicle. Doing this allows us to come to the market with different kits that are generally at lower price points and more cost effective while still immensely improving the performance of that vehicle. We aren't out there trying to convince our customers to spend more than necessary for their given goal. If you think back to 2016, before ZZP entered the market, the cost of everything was a lot higher than it is now. Companies were charging $5k+ for a stage 1 turbo kit. We came out with a kit for $3k that had the same performance numbers. The other companies ended up following suit with pricing. We've done this with several products in the Slingshot platform and will continue to do so.

    https://leadersrpmshop.com/pol…ge-slingshot-2889635-891/


    Im wondering if anyone has installed the new brembo OEM brakes on an older slingshot. It says here it will fit 2020 and up but I have a feeling it is probably plug and play for older models as well. Can anyone chime in?

    The Brembos should bolt right up. The part number for the knuckle did not change which means center to center bolt measurement did not change. The Brembo calipers (all pricing from Polaris) are $300/e, the required rotors are $300/e, and the pads, pins, and clips (sold as a kit) you'll need are $75/e. However, the rear caliper has not changed since 2015 and is not a Brembo. They just painted it. You may want to save some money and just purchase the fronts and paint the rear to match. You'd have $1350 in the the Brembo setup or $1000 into our Wilwood setup.

    I know but does not include the expensive rear caliper.

    We do that intentionally since the front brakes are doing the majority of the braking and also offer the option for a matching rear rotor with a set of hawk ceramic pads in it. The ABS module has no bias control. There would be no situation where you would want the same size caliper on the rear as you have on the front. Now, it you just want it to match from a strictly matching looks stand point that is completely different.

    I know a lot of you do not do FaceBook so I thought I would share this over here. We recently released these and have sold over 20 sets so far. While he is waiting on install, 3GunSteve was one of the first purchasers. We worked with Wilwood directly and picked out a set of their 4 spiston calipers to go with our Slingshot slotted rotors. They come with a low dust set of there street/track pads that offer plenty of bite and there is also an option to get a matching rear slotted rotor with a ceramic set of hawk pads just for the rear so you can have a full upgrade from front to back. It's currently the most affordable brake upgrade on the market and you can find it here https://zzperformance.com/coll…t-wilwood-front-brake-kit If you have any questions feel free to reach out here, or my direct email is kyle@zzperfofrmance.com, and my direct office line is 616.421.4296.