Rab, don't swap the pan, just install a scavenge pump.
The spot where you return your oil is the best place, if I had to redo my setup, I would go back to block like you did and get a scavenge pump if it doesn't line up.
Or setup an seprate oil feed and return circuit, which is what we did on my friends SS, and it works really good. Rarely see turbo oil temps over 55deg celc even after beating on it.
I can get you part numbers.
He thinks he lives up North....how cute
well, Quebec is more north than these guys in California or anywhere in the US besides Alaska for sure lol
Hopefully I will have the space at the track next weekend to test this out.
Here in Quebec, highway speed limits at 100 km/h (62mph), they tolerate up to 118.
Anything above 160, your licence is suspended and vehicule is inpounded. Its not a good idea to test top speeds on our roads lol.
Plus, to get any type of grip to use this power, its needs to be done on heated tires on a track, else like you mention, 1-2-3 is a write-off and only in low 4th your not spinning the rear. On my street tires (AD08r) passed 3000 rpm in fourth gear wot is out of the question. It just wants to turn around.
The only place I was able to put my foot down since I forged the engine and put a 10 psi spring in plus opened up my manual boost controler was at Mont Tremblant after 2 or 3 laps on my R888. And even then, I had to be carefull that the SS was going straight. And I ended up cracking my plastic manifold.
AEM logs showed peaks of 18 psi at 13 afr.
The next run, I couldn't boost higher than 10psi and it was lagging. I thought I had damaged the engine, but taking off the intake I could see it had formed a crack at the runners seam facing the back of the intake.
Since I replaced the intake, I closed my boost controler and peak at 12-13. Thus my reason to get the aluminum manifold.
Power is always fun in more than one way. But in my eyes our dyno is a tool to test and tune. If we make big power cool, but its main purpose is to dial a machine in.
Remember last year at the Firm. Richard with our kit at only 4 psi making allot less power than others took first place.
Do you think I would go to the effort of removing and reinstalling if it had to come back off. This isn't a H3 headlight bulb. This is some serious stuff I'm playing with. I may even cut my finger installing all this. Or even worse I may have to drive to Canada and find @iNewton and a damn long runway just to show him how we make our power on the bottom side of the RPM band!
@Turbosling would love to put my SS on a track against other Slings. Here in Montreal I haven't seen a faster SS yet, my main goal was to keep up with a Trex on a track.
Now Trex is too easy, I have too much power in a straight line, and cornering is about the same. Braking, trex kills me, well I don't have a BBk on my sling yet, but you love to review your kit (wink wink) lol I can give you my address if you ever feel the need to give stuff away for reviewing again haha! Right now looking more towards Sling Street, they have a nice kit for the 3 wheels too for less money.
@rabtech I have raced an alpha kit, both in original forms (non forged engine with 8 psi springs in both setups) and I can say that Jonv kit is faster and spools quicker. In Alpha's defense, the guy didn't have the headers which would help a lot with spool time. Also, he is running a super silent side exhaust, while my kit is a 12 inch resonator straight exit.
Btw, I have to say I was super impressed by the Alpha exhaust being so silent. His kit makes less noise than the stock exhaust. Very impressive feat. Too soft for me, but def a selling point for guys who want more power without the racket. I was impressed test driving his machine. Very impressed.
Exhaust gets my two thumbs up!
On the minus side, both Alpha kits I have seen have idle smoking issue even after the intake manifold mod Henry told me about. It helped but not fixed it yet. One kit I installed, one kit (the one I raced) was installed by a Alpha dealer in NJ, so I know its not me or something I did.
Also had issues with bolts holding the exhaust to the turbo coming loose on the kit installed in NJ. Same guy I had to replace the grommet that holds the tube going to the intake from the valve cover because it had cut itself up from vibration and tube was unsealed and loose, and had to bend heatshield a bit because it was hitting on the intake tube and damaging the tube.
On the plus side, which you don't get to see because you have a clear finish, the coating on the parts look topnotch. Really nice stuff and doesn't scratch easy. I like it.
We have really nice tracks here in Montreal if you ever come to our part of the world, Mecaglisse (where I will be racing 4 other slings and 30 trex on sept 17th), Mont Tremblant, Sanair, Circuit St-Eustache (where they held North American drift championship) all 1h drive from one another.
If you like open roads, we have Charlevoix where they host north american Rally races, lots of turns, hills and straights.
All in good fun
PS Henry, I will give you my address just in case hahah 
Also, another point to be made, stock crank and stock sleaves are pretty close to max tolerance at 600hp. The pistons and rods I am pretty sure would handle close to 700-800 but the block and crank would probably fail before.
My guess.
personnaly I don't expect a clear winner.
The entire thing is fun, but I think that with the stock plastic intake manif and stock fuel system, what Rab did with the Hans setup is the end of the line no mather what turbo he's running.
Pretty sure the his SS would not survive an entire track day being pushed like this on stock fuel pump, not because the engine is weak, but fuel system is not made to push 500hp all day.
With an upgraded fuel setup and aluminum intake manifold able to handle 20psi or more of boost, things could get interesting.
Still curious to see the results.
Next weeks delivery for Rab will be a DDM Super Charger...then a John V....then....
JonV is RIP, but I am still well alive with his kit in my Sling
Engine wise mine and DDM are pretty matched except for redline potential.
Once I get the Haltech Elite installed, it will go on the dyno and get some numbers.
Only issue I have with dynos is that they are so subjective. I like to fight my fights on a track, let the clock do the talking, but because I live so far away up north in Canada, I don't see a battle of king kongs on a race track between me and Rab anytime soon
For now, I will just enjoy passing Trex on the track like they are driving with the brakes dragging...
And to say this thread was about fuel pump and regulators lol
Right, although when I had the engine in pieces I cleaned up all the oil passages in and out of the pump and head passages which where pretty blocked by flare. Should help with oil pressure.
So just received the remote filter and bracket from DDM, looks great, going to get some fittings tomorow and start working on installing this kit:
Forging an engine in itself doesn't produce more power. The anount of air and fuel you cram into it does. So no, by itself the engine would be about the same as the oem engine.
Being forged lets you push more boost into it and that's where its "more powerful" without ending up in pieces.
This is going to be fun to see
Let me know when we need to get the dyno warmed back up to do the comparison on this.
As for valve springs - heavier valve springs are used if you are planning on revving the engine higher than around 7400RPM, then the valves will start to float and the heavier springs become useful. The stock valve springs in the 2.4L are the exact same part number as the 2.0L turbo and those valve springs easily handle 30psi at RPM ranges below 7400RPM. The downside of using heavier valve springs is that they put more stress on the timing chain and the rest of the valvetrain though.
good explanation, thanks!
While on the subject, would heavier springs impact the Variable valve timing if it puts extra resistance on the cams?
It's about to go down. Only @rabtech can get 500+ ponies out of the two most popular turbos on the market.
Side note: I sense a raffle for whichever turbo comes in second. It may be time for an official charity of slingshotinfo.com.
And @Slunglow you're not getting a gently used turbo out of this one.
No, not only Rabtech lol
But only Rabtech posted a dyno run so it will be interesting.
My main issue is that without fuel delivery modifications, his engine is already at max and not because of the turbo kit.
I hope Rab will have the patience to swap fuel pumps on his current kit and re running a dyno pull before swapping the kits.
The engine we have can deal with approx 600hp, but he is still on stock valve springs and I would worry about possible valve floating if he gets to 20 psi or more.
I swapped my valve springs for zzp springs to make sure it could handle more than 20 psi.
Also the plastic manifold (on mine) cracked at 18 psi, so in order to isolate the power to the actual kits, the manifold needs to be swapped for aluminum to handle the boost.
It would yes, nice find!!
Gonna look into the product, looks interesting for sure.
Wonder where they put the map sensor and vacuum hoses on this unit.
Lets see first how the stock ecu handles this. Running just the pump and stock regulator didn't work so well, which I expected, I assume with the proper fpr it should be good, we shall soon see I guess
Still have to tie the return hose in some places to the frame before driving it, and check for leaks, but I am confident its ready.
Will be back with update soon.
I have already been running at 18 psi but it cracked the plastic manifold and wouldn't get more than 10 psi.
Got a used one from a scrap yard and dropped it to 15 psi for now until I get an alum intake made and Haltech installed with the electronic boost controller along with it.
For now, curious to see if the stock ecu with bob's tune will be able to manage with using the Aeromotive fuel pump so that I can have a bit of fun before cold sets in.
Waiting on the harness for the Haltech, maybe I will not be patient enough to wait and install it lol
Damn I need to post some dyno numbers and get people drooling over my machine too haha!
JonV might be MIA, but still made one hell of an amazing kit.
I will only post once I get Rabtech's dyno numbers, on a loaded dyno mouhahahah!!!
Just got done replacing the oem fuel pump with a Aeromotive Stealth unit, along with an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator.
Here are the pics of the instalation.
Mfor the curious, the external regulator needs to return fuel to the tank and thats the tube you see going back into the tank.
You will need to get your exhaust to a shop and get the metal bung that came with it soldered to the top of the exhaust exit right after the turbo.
