Have a Happy Birthday! May the Force be with You!!
Posts by samowens44
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Yeah, there were rubber seals around the wires going into the plug, and then from the male plug to the female connector. Everything looks brand new inside the plug so no water/dirt there.
I did get the light to come on 1 more time. Of course, I maaaaayyyyyyy have been sliding it around a corner at that time. It just flashed a few times then went right back off.
That is find, it is just letting you know Traction Control played a part in your driving control. This is sounding good.
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Most all of the plugs that are on the Slingshot have a sealing material that closes the connection to moisture and dirt. It would give extra protection if the proper grease was used. It is a special grease that conducts electricity.
Most conditions of fault that are temporary can be cleared by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting.
Let's all wait for chavey2 to report his finding of if the light comes back. We still have one more Wheel Speed Sensor on the rear.
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Good Job. right decision to not do more until you evaluate what you have done. Looks like you found a way of releasing the lock on the plug. Just drive and see if it comes back it, you may have corrected the problem by re-seating the plugs at the front. Isolating a problem requires steps like this and then check the results. It is best to do one item at a time to really find out exactly what is causing the problem. Too many things at once leaves you with uncertainty as to what element was bad. "Just saying". Sometimes, it may take longer, depends on the problem. You did right for this trouble.
We are only re-seating and we don't care which one was causing the issue if it works. Just a bad connection.
Hope it never comes back!!
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chavey2 Looking at your photo, it look like the red tab will pull down and there will be a tab you will be able to push to release the plug. Look at it carefully, it may slide down, not sure. It should move away from the canal that it is covering, that will be where the tab is located. Leave it along until someone can tell us exactly how it releases. That assembly on the plug is the release and the red cap is locking the tab from being pushed. I am sure this is to keep people from accidentally unplugging this as it is part of your safety programs. Folks, don't mess with this if you don't feel like it is something you can figure out, just wait until someone with experience can help. I did not realize there was a lock on the plug,
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I believe the red tab is a locking tab and it must be pushed, pulled or slide to allow the release tab to be pushed to allow the plug to be removed. Look at it carefully and this should not be something you need to use tools to pry on. You fingers should do the job. Be careful, you do not want to damage the plug. Hope someone will come to the rescue and tell us for sure. Until then, here is my Jeep ECU plug that has a red locking tab. Take a look at the photo and see if this will help with your plug.
As I show, this red tab slides and that allows the tab to be pushed down without the red cover over the end. I push down on that tab and it pulls up on the lock that holds the plug locked in position. When you see a red tab that means it is a lock.
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Thanks Sam, I'll give it a try & let you know how it works!
Doc, we are isolating our problem, your results will help direct the next step. It is important to do each wheel. Any one can cause the problem.
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Thanks for the info. I'll try it tonight. I can say turning off/on the ESP switch does nothing for the light.
Thanks for the input!
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One more thing to isolate this problem would be to push the ESP switch on the center console to turn off Traction Control. ESP is still in effect, but let's see if the Traction Control light comes on and stays on, this is normal. Now after a short ride, push the Switch again to turn Traction Control back on. Does the light go out. Does it stay out. The switch could be a source of trouble also. We are trying to eliminate possible troubles by doing this test. Keep us informed. Others may have knowledge that will help.
ESP (Electronic Stability Program) is deactivated by pressing the ESP switch for more than 5 sec. When you do this, all safety controls are off and you are riding on your own with not interactive control.
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samowens44 by any chance is the Traction control System connected to the ambient temperature sensor? I do not know if this is the case with the slingshot, but I do believe that some systems incorporate the temperature sensors into TC so that the system can better respond to situations when ice is likely - - - if this is the case with the TC on the slingshot that might help understand why it does not happen in warm weather
That is a good point, but do not have knowledge of the details of the Traction control system for the Slingshot. I just have a basic understanding of the system. Coming and going problems in most cases is caused by added resistance to the system in the electrical circuit. The best place for that to happen is the connectors. Working for the telephone company for 28 years has show me bad connections are the the best place to look for intermittent problems in an electrical circuit. Most times we can reset a circuit pack and correct a problem. With relays dirty contacts will lead to a lot of intermittent troubles. In this case, we only have the Speed Sensor pickup head and a connector that goes to the ECU. the connectors are exposed to water, dirt and cold, to me I would eliminate it as a source of problems by re-plugging the connections. If the problem still exist, we may need more help as the ECU or if there is a temp sensor, it could be causing an issue into the equations. Good Luck Doc, and thanks Edward Neal for adding another element of possibilities to this unique problem.
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Doc&Ruby The main component for Traction Contorl System is the Wheel Speed Sensors. You have one on each wheel and they feed wheel speed information to the ECM to determine if traction control is needed. Find where they plug in and unplug them and plug back in again. Do this for each one. Most times when TC light comes on, there is a problem with the Wheel Sensors. It is worth a try. Usually when they are bad, it just stays in. Since yours is intermittant, you could just have a connection that has resistance in it. Re plugging it may correct the problem.
In cold weather metal connection points contract and this could be just enough to cause more resistance in the connection. This is the most logical thing for a problem like you are describing.
Good Luck, I know how come and go problems can drive you up a wall.
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was wondering what everyone uses for usb music devices
load your favorite music on a jump drive. Plug it in, select usb mode with mode switch. The older entertainment system required mp3 file type not sure about Ride Command.
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do you think the flasher module could be going bad?
Test it by disconnecting all aux lighting leads from the turn signal leads. Back to OEM. If you have a failure then, your Flasher Module is not performing under normal conditions. BAD! They are around $100 plus for new, may get one on ebay for less. It may be possible for the much excessive current could have damage the limit sensors of the Flasher Module. Putting too much current through an electronic device is harmful. If your only problem is no flash with key off, forget it and just enjoy your slingshot. You probably will never need that condition, if you do, leave the key on. I would not leave my slingshot with just the flashers running anyway!
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I am going to show you the Flasher Pin layout and more information about this system. Now my information is from the 2017 Service Manual. The 2015 may be a little different as to some elements. The main thing is the Flasher with your problem. Look at the diagram and you will see, when you turn the ignition on, power is sent to turn on the Flasher. Now nothing happens until you push the turn signal lever to left or right flash. Look back through the thread and find my video for installing my aux leds and that will show you how to get to the Flasher.
I want to add information about the power to the Flasher Module.
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I am going to show you the Flasher Pin layout and more information about this system. Now my information is from the 2017 Service Manual. The 2015 may be a little different as to some elements. The main thing is the Flasher with your problem. Look at the diagram and you will see, when you turn the ignition on, power is sent to turn on the Flasher. Now nothing happens until you push the turn signal lever to left or right flash. Look back through the thread and find my video for installing my aux leds and that will show you how to get to the Flasher.
This is my information about the Flasher Module.
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Looks like DG/PK without the magnifying glass
If my memory serves me, that sounds correct. I think the pin numbers are on the module plug, so when he pulls it off, it will be easy to find. Thanks Gerald!
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There is one option that will work for your issue. Wire a hot all the time fused power lead to pin 2 of the Flasher Module. This will make the Flasher Module think the Key is on and all will perform perfectly. This means your Turn Signals will work without the key being on. I have a video that shows how to get to the Flasher Module, look at this thread and you will find it. Don't know the color, sold my Service Manual to FunCycle
That is the way to solve the problem, but make sure you don't leave the turn signals on when you leave the vehicle, dead battery possible when you get back. 15 amp fuse should be fine to supply this. Make sure to put the fuse near the power source lead. Hook it up temporarily to test, then nail down permanent after testing.
Here is the reasoning behind this. Pin 2 the the Ignition power to the Flasher Module. When the ignition is turned on you get full battery power to the Flasher Module, that is why the flashers all work when the Key is on. We will make that happen when the key is off by placing battery Power on the Flasher module on the Ignition lead. I am sure all will work fine. The Alternator is a good power source for a test point for hot all the time power. MAKE sure to use fuse in the lead for the test. Test it first as stated above. Let us know the results.
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Display MoreHow many strips of sequential lights? Your previous post looked like 3.
I think I had mentioned before, as you add circuits in parallel, the overall impedance drops. Basically, each leg cuts overall resistance. So, 3 parallel 100ohm resistors makes a total of 33 ohms of resistance.
You may need to try a higher resistance on each strip. Perhaps a 220 ohm or 470 ohm on each.
Or, place a single resistor as in your "left" drawing on post 146.
It would be a trial/error to find the resistance that works.
Bigdog You can purchase a varable resistor, they have a knob and can change the resistance by turning the knob. Pick a larger one, not the tiny mini variable resistors. Pick on with a range of zero to 1k. Get one for each side to connect to the Turn Sign lead and your three legs LEDs. This will allow you to turn the Variable Rheostat to obtain a resistance that will allow the Flasher Module to work. This all trial and error as mpj220 stated. Before you install you can use a ohm meter to check the starting resistance 220 resistance to start your test to find the proper resistance. Slowly test until you find a setting that allows all to work properly. As mpj220 stated, the problem you are having is because of the parallel connections for three legs each side. This does increase the current more than just one leg.
You could then get resistors of the value on the Rheostat to order and install instead of leaving the Variable Rheostat in.
You could just order one, up to you. You may find that when it works in one feature you loose all the LEDS installed due to not enough current. If they work all but the Emergency feature with key off, then just unplug LEDS if you need the feature. You are headed down a rough road with rewards unknown. Good Luck, and thanks to mpj220 for add the info about parallel circuits.
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Thanks Sam, do you think the resisters I’ve added have corrected the frozen turn signal issue?
I can live with the emergency flashers only working with the key on......I hope it passes the safety inspection that way....The resistors put your extra LEDs within the limits, and using a resistor in each leg was the right thing to do. You are all set for the road. Get out there and show off those turn signal LEDS.
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I ran out of daylight today but tomorrow I will unplug my sequential lights and see if that makes the emergency flashers work without the key...if it does work then I could wire a switch into that circuit to turn them off if the emergency flashers need to used without the key.
Yes, unplugging would be the best option. If there is an inspection just unplug before going thru the test. I think you now have the best option, let's face it, you will probably not be in a need of leaving your Slingshot with the Flashers on anyway.
