Turn signal question

    Quote from Trinilover

    Good Evening everyone, I'm new to the forum but I also had blinker issues. I bought spoiler leds with the fog light harness, upper brow and lower brow from Slingmods hooked everything up and the drivers side would blink fast. If I turned off the fog light switch the blinkers would only blink once then stop. I tore my SS apart 4 times trying different ways of connecting these leds. I noticed that when I would connect and disconnect the factory harness from the drivers side port I would have to really push the connection in to get the marker lights to work. So I removed the drivers side light and plugged it into the passenger side port and the same thing happened. So I got into my vehicle and drove to the Polaris dealer they ran a test on the drivers side light and it was defective lucky for me I'm still under warranty if not that would've been a $216 purchase. So if your having issues on one side I would have the dealer test the lights. Part is on order once I get the new light I'll do an update post.

    Good to know and welcome to the forum

    Quote from Trinilover

    Good Evening everyone, I'm new to the forum but I also had blinker issues. I bought spoiler leds with the fog light harness, upper brow and lower brow from Slingmods hooked everything up and the drivers side would blink fast. If I turned off the fog light switch the blinkers would only blink once then stop. I tore my SS apart 4 times trying different ways of connecting these leds. I noticed that when I would connect and disconnect the factory harness from the drivers side port I would have to really push the connection in to get the marker lights to work. So I removed the drivers side light and plugged it into the passenger side port and the same thing happened. So I got into my vehicle and drove to the Polaris dealer they ran a test on the drivers side light and it was defective lucky for me I'm still under warranty if not that would've been a $216 purchase. So if your having issues on one side I would have the dealer test the lights. Part is on order once I get the new light I'll do an update post.

    You did some good trouble shooting by moving the lights to see if trouble moved. That will help others with similar troubles. Thanks for sharing. Welcome to the Slingshotinfo forum.

    Quote from Trinilover

    Good Evening everyone, I'm new to the forum but I also had blinker issues. I bought spoiler leds with the fog light harness, upper brow and lower brow from Slingmods hooked everything up and the drivers side would blink fast. If I turned off the fog light switch the blinkers would only blink once then stop. I tore my SS apart 4 times trying different ways of connecting these leds. I noticed that when I would connect and disconnect the factory harness from the drivers side port I would have to really push the connection in to get the marker lights to work. So I removed the drivers side light and plugged it into the passenger side port and the same thing happened. So I got into my vehicle and drove to the Polaris dealer they ran a test on the drivers side light and it was defective lucky for me I'm still under warranty if not that would've been a $216 purchase. So if your having issues on one side I would have the dealer test the lights. Part is on order once I get the new light I'll do an update post.

    Welcome to the "World of Slingshot Insanity" A great place to hang out and learn a little .. As you think warrantee...I generally don't do the extended warrantee thing, but with the Slingshot I did --- extended to a 5 yr. The dealers have a good deal of flex in what they charge for there warrantee. For the 'odd ball' stuff it's been a life saver for me. ---- That being said I do put lots of miles on my Slingshot.

    Quote from Trinilover

    Good Evening everyone, I'm new to the forum but I also had blinker issues. I bought spoiler leds with the fog light harness, upper brow and lower brow from Slingmods hooked everything up and the drivers side would blink fast. If I turned off the fog light switch the blinkers would only blink once then stop. I tore my SS apart 4 times trying different ways of connecting these leds. I noticed that when I would connect and disconnect the factory harness from the drivers side port I would have to really push the connection in to get the marker lights to work. So I removed the drivers side light and plugged it into the passenger side port and the same thing happened. So I got into my vehicle and drove to the Polaris dealer they ran a test on the drivers side light and it was defective lucky for me I'm still under warranty if not that would've been a $216 purchase. So if your having issues on one side I would have the dealer test the lights. Part is on order once I get the new light I'll do an update post.

    welcome, so there was something wrong with the plug connection on the turn signal unit itself?


    if you still have the bad light take a picture of the problem...

    I installed 6 resisters today one on each of the two string lights (turn signals) and one on the sequential light(s). There are 6 sequential bulbs 3 on each side. One resister for 3 lights. Not individually. One resister for all 3.


    my emergency flashers work but not with the key off....


    now what?

    Quote from Bigdog

    I installed 6 resisters today one on each of the two string lights (turn signals) and one on the sequential light(s). There are 6 sequential bulbs 3 on each side. One resister for 3 lights. Not individually. One resister for all 3.


    my emergency flashers work but not with the key off....


    now what?

    The problem is you have exceeded the current limits of the Flasher module for the true Emergency flasher retirements. Look at my explanation of the two power sources of the flasher. There is no way to fix it, too many lights. I suggest don’t worry about it. If you need to use the emergency flashers for a safety requirement remember to leave your key on. Now if you must leave the flashers on for a longer period, run the motor. One other way would be to add a relay with a switch to disconnect all the extra leds. Extreme but it would solve the problem.

    I ran out of daylight today but tomorrow I will unplug my sequential lights and see if that makes the emergency flashers work without the key...if it does work then I could wire a switch into that circuit to turn them off if the emergency flashers need to used without the key.

    Quote from Bigdog

    I ran out of daylight today but tomorrow I will unplug my sequential lights and see if that makes the emergency flashers work without the key...if it does work then I could wire a switch into that circuit to turn them off if the emergency flashers need to used without the key.

    Yes, unplugging would be the best option. If there is an inspection just unplug before going thru the test. I think you now have the best option, let's face it, you will probably not be in a need of leaving your Slingshot with the Flashers on anyway.

    Quote from Bigdog

    Thanks Sam, do you think the resisters I’ve added have corrected the frozen turn signal issue?


    I can live with the emergency flashers only working with the key on......I hope it passes the safety inspection that way....

    The resistors put your extra LEDs within the limits, and using a resistor in each leg was the right thing to do. You are all set for the road. Get out there and show off those turn signal LEDS.

    How many strips of sequential lights? Your previous post looked like 3.


    I think I had mentioned before, as you add circuits in parallel, the overall impedance drops. Basically, each leg cuts overall resistance. So, 3 parallel 100ohm resistors makes a total of 33 ohms of resistance.

    You may need to try a higher resistance on each strip. Perhaps a 220 ohm or 470 ohm on each.

    Or, place a single resistor as in your "left" drawing on post 146.


    It would be a trial/error to find the resistance that works.

    Bigdog You can purchase a varable resistor, they have a knob and can change the resistance by turning the knob. Pick a larger one, not the tiny mini variable resistors. Pick on with a range of zero to 1k. Get one for each side to connect to the Turn Sign lead and your three legs LEDs. This will allow you to turn the Variable Rheostat to obtain a resistance that will allow the Flasher Module to work. This all trial and error as mpj220 stated. Before you install you can use a ohm meter to check the starting resistance 220 resistance to start your test to find the proper resistance. Slowly test until you find a setting that allows all to work properly. As mpj220 stated, the problem you are having is because of the parallel connections for three legs each side. This does increase the current more than just one leg.

    You could then get resistors of the value on the Rheostat to order and install instead of leaving the Variable Rheostat in.

    You could just order one, up to you. You may find that when it works in one feature you loose all the LEDS installed due to not enough current. If they work all but the Emergency feature with key off, then just unplug LEDS if you need the feature. You are headed down a rough road with rewards unknown. Good Luck, and thanks to mpj220 for add the info about parallel circuits.

    Unplugging the 6 sequential lights, 3 on each side had no effect on the emergency flasher. Works with key on, not with key off.


    Some of The resisters I put in are before the black boxes and some are after.


    maybe it’s the flasher unit

    Quote from Bigdog

    Unplugging the 6 sequential lights, 3 on each side had no effect on the emergency flasher. Works with key on, not with key off.


    Some of The resisters I put in are before the black boxes and some are after.


    maybe it’s the flasher unit

    I think the flasher circuit is susceptible to damage from rain/water. Mine quit working in a nasty squall and I haven't bothered to troubleshoot it yet.

    Remember folks - this isn't a rehearsal, this is The Show!8)

    There is one option that will work for your issue. Wire a hot all the time fused power lead to pin 2 of the Flasher Module. This will make the Flasher Module think the Key is on and all will perform perfectly. This means your Turn Signals will work without the key being on. I have a video that shows how to get to the Flasher Module, look at this thread and you will find it. Don't know the color, sold my Service Manual to FunCycle

    That is the way to solve the problem, but make sure you don't leave the turn signals on when you leave the vehicle, dead battery possible when you get back. 15 amp fuse should be fine to supply this. Make sure to put the fuse near the power source lead. Hook it up temporarily to test, then nail down permanent after testing.

    Here is the reasoning behind this. Pin 2 the the Ignition power to the Flasher Module. When the ignition is turned on you get full battery power to the Flasher Module, that is why the flashers all work when the Key is on. We will make that happen when the key is off by placing battery Power on the Flasher module on the Ignition lead. I am sure all will work fine. The Alternator is a good power source for a test point for hot all the time power. MAKE sure to use fuse in the lead for the test. Test it first as stated above. Let us know the results.


    Quote from samowens44

    There is one option that will work for your issue. Wire a hot all the time fused power lead to pin 2 of the Flasher Module. This will make the Flasher Module think the Key is on and all will perform perfectly. This means your Turn Signals will work without the key being on. I have a video that shows how to get to the Flasher Module, look at this thread and you will find it. Don't know the color, sold my Service Manual to FunCycle

    That is the way to solve the problem, but make sure you don't leave the turn signals on when you leave the vehicle, dead battery possible when you get back. 15 amp fuse should be fine to supply this. Make sure to put the fuse near the power source lead. Hook it up temporarily to test, then nail down permanent after testing.

    Here is the reasoning behind this. Pin 2 the the Ignition power to the Flasher Module. When the ignition is turned on you get full battery power to the Flasher Module, that is why the flashers all work when the Key is on. We will make that happen when the key is off by placing battery Power on the Flasher module on the Ignition lead. I am sure all will work fine. The Alternator is a good power source for a test point for hot all the time power. MAKE sure to use fuse in the lead for the test. Test it first as stated above. Let us know the results.


    Looks like DG/PK without the magnifying glass