Traction Control light stays on

  • Most all of the plugs that are on the Slingshot have a sealing material that closes the connection to moisture and dirt. It would give extra protection if the proper grease was used. It is a special grease that conducts electricity.

    Most conditions of fault that are temporary can be cleared by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting.

    Let's all wait for chavey2 to report his finding of if the light comes back. We still have one more Wheel Speed Sensor on the rear.

  • Yeah, there were rubber seals around the wires going into the plug, and then from the male plug to the female connector. Everything looks brand new inside the plug so no water/dirt there.


    I did get the light to come on 1 more time. Of course, I maaaaayyyyyyy have been sliding it around a corner at that time. It just flashed a few times then went right back off. :evil:

  • Yeah, there were rubber seals around the wires going into the plug, and then from the male plug to the female connector. Everything looks brand new inside the plug so no water/dirt there.


    I did get the light to come on 1 more time. Of course, I maaaaayyyyyyy have been sliding it around a corner at that time. It just flashed a few times then went right back off. :evil:

    That is find, it is just letting you know Traction Control played a part in your driving control. This is sounding good.

  • My light has reset itself again, temps in the low 50's, rode for about an hour, no problems.

    I'm stuck at my desk grading papers for the rest of the day. I'll try to reset & grease the plugs, but I probably won't get to it until the semester is over.

    The smarter you get, the funnier I am.

  • Well, no luck. TC light came on again yesterday - 80+ degrees, bright, sunny, on freeway doing 65-70mph. Dunno if I hit a bump or not, but flipping the switch did nothing.


    To be clear, I only unplugged/replugged the 2 front sensors. I did not do the rear due it being underneath and inside the frame rails..

  • I am not totally sure on this, but I believe the Traction Control Program is more directed to the rear tire. It is the wheel with power directed to it, so needs help with control under bad conditions. Electronic Stability Program is more directed to the front wheels. I know the ESP Switch has two functions. The action of pushing it with just a click of the switch turns off traction control. With Traction Control on, normal driving conditions, you can not do a tire burnout. You can squeal the tire, but traction control keeps it under control. Turn off Traction Control and you can do a full tire burnout. ESP is still active in this state, so you have stability control. To turn off ESP you have to push and hold the switch for more than 2 sec. This is why I think there are two systems to allow the Slingshot to be driven with a better degree of safety with only three wheels.

    People with more knowledge of the two system can correct me or add to a better understanding.

    With this thinking, it may be necessary to fully rule out a bad connection by seeing if it is safely possible to unplug the rear wheel sensor. It it looks unsafe or too hard to get to, maybe the dealer should be consulted and see if they could do it, or would do it. Once that is eliminated as to trouble, we have to rely on Polaris for a solution.

    Good luck.

  • Hi Everyone,


    I did some work on my slingshot and had to disconnect the battery for quite some time. After reconnecting the Traction Control and ABS lights have been illuminated. Any ideas on how to reset those systems?

  • Hi Everyone,


    I did some work on my slingshot and had to disconnect the battery for quite some time. After reconnecting the Traction Control and ABS lights have been illuminated. Any ideas on how to reset those systems?

    Have you driven it yet? When we disconnect the sensors here, we have to drive the Slingshot a short distance (less than 1/4 mile) and the light will go off if everything is plugged back in and working.

  • Mine seems to be temperature dependent. If I'm riding below 30 F, the slightest bump sets off the T/C light - I have to pull over, shut down & restart to clear it.

    Never happens above 40 F or so. Haven't fixed it, just learned to tolerate it. Not sure what state the T/C & stability control nannies are in when the light goes off - but I drive very modestly in low temps because I know that even all-weather rubber loses grip in cold temps.

    I switched from Cooper Zeon RS3-R (summer tire) and mounted Pirelli P-Zero all-weather all round last fall. Happy with the changes.

    Last fall/winter didn't have any cold & clear riding weather, mostly cold & wet and snowy, so little sling time since last October.

    The smarter you get, the funnier I am.

  • Would be happy to hear if your dealership finds a solution!

    One nice thing is I have a wide variety when it comes to choice of dealers. Malcolm Smith Motorsports is closest to me however they couldn’t get me in for a month or more and I would have to leave it. I will drive to Orange county to Delamo Motorsports. I have an appointment at 10 o’clock Friday and they know I’m a waiter so I’ll be in and out in an hour either with a fix or a diagnosis and parts being ordered. Worth the 30 minute drive!

    We’ll get there when we get there and not a minute before. 😎