Posts by SaltyClownNY

Attention Vendors. Please email robert@rabtech.com any instruction manuals you may have for your products. They will be added to the FILEBASE tab for members to access.

    Now the question is, are they making any adjustments and if so, to the piggyback? Are you in stage 2x for that? I would think not. I believe Bill claimed 250 HP at the wheel. DDM was saying they were getting on average 12.5 HP for each PSI of boost. Bills was pushing peak of 8 for the stage 1, so that "should" give you between 80-100 HP added to the machine. I believe stock is 176... I think... So it should be a peak of 256-276HP at the wheel. My take is that Bill may have been on the "safe" side and probably didn't put that much time into the tune... don't know that, but a hunch. If you put stage 2, it will push it to just under 10, so should add another 20-25HP. I was hoping that someone could verify Bills tune.

    I can't see the entire graph, but looks like the stock is coming in at just under 150HP at the wheel? Is that the case? If that is true, then the system is pushing an added 90HP, so 11.25/PSI. Almost what DDM was claiming. This is all assuming you are at stage 1 though.


    Thanks for the info!

    So...turbos better? LoL , I love individuality. I am in process of installing a set of BOW gauges from Autometer. I am making a custom gauge pod... that is taking forever...sadly. There again...the individuality we have, making our rides... OURS!!! I leave you with this thought... I like steak and you like hotdogs... LoL

    LOL... yes, a hot dog is more aerodynamic and sleek. Faster food... :00008356:

    I think @Lui is correct, BUT, I don't think I'd give up my Turbo. It's a different beast and you do need to learn how to drive differently with it, but once you learn that, it's just second nature and I LOVE putting my foot on the gas and having the thing jump. I also like having the thing drive like stock and not be using all my gas until I want it to. It becomes very second nature. I do think there is some risk to it as a bit more can go wrong maybe, but that's what gauges are for. Maybe you don't need the gauges with a SC, but it would drive me nuts not having them as I like to know what the machine is doing. So I'd say it's a highly personal thing... and everyone knows Turbos are better anyway :POKESS:

    My 110v 7000 looks like this one

    Did you get yours from Costco @Bigdog? Don't think I like one over the other. @ericastar76 look like it's got a metal tank on it where this one is plastic, but this one comes with a metal trey wrapped around it that the cary handle is mounted to. Interesting. Motor looks a little more industrial on Erica's. Wonder if it's just the new model... or older one... or I'd have to agree with @KayTwo which is part of the reason I posted this as to let people know what they are selling.

    @SaltyClownNY I bought the SidePipes Dual Exhaust from Hahn. The tune you sent me from Bill yesterday was used and currently no smoking is taking place. Although they started it with the factory tune and their place filled with smoke!


    You mentioned something about fast shifting, is this a concern because of traction issues or something else?


    The initial theory was that the Welter rear pipe was changing the pressure in the engine a bit as it's longer than stock. Installing a PCV valve fixed it in two slings. There were some installs with the Hahn pipe that this did not happen too... so it was thought to be an issue just with the folks using the Welter pipes. But then all bets were off when a Hahn pipe started doing it. Personally, I would install the PCV valve either way just to have it in place. The smoking happened initially just as you stated as things are burning off. The second round for some were after running it for a while then shutting it down and letting it sit for 10 or so minutes and then starting it up while the oil pooled. So to my knowledge, there was no clear cause for the issue, only that the fix seemed to work for all. Quite frankly, by taking the stock one out, I think it best to have one put back anyway. Easy and cheep fix. I say Easy, but I had a huge issue as the dam threads to the adapter wouldn't start threading correctly and I ended up getting pissed and removed the entire cold air intake side. I'm on meds now, so better :whistling:

    Thanks @rabtech. Yeah, I need to figure out the tire thing. I read a post of yours about watching orders and making sure you know what you are driving over. I've noticed in update NY and the cold weather we have, hard to keep the tire stuck to the ground no matter what you do. Need to figure out the clutch issue and it not grabbing as fast as I need it too as well. Others have spoken about the Hahn Turbo having issues with shifting quickly and sounds like it's an issue.


    My comment above was more so about the design being of 1 wheel in the back and it's ability to push a light vehicle. Did you all note the 1/4 mile times or speeds when you were doing the 1/2 miles?

    I did look at the blowoff valve adjustments. Mine was fine out of the box. Most things I didn't have to mess with. Very excited for you. What kind of exhaust did they put on? Hahn's? Be interesting to see if you get any smoke. To my knowledge, we've had a hit or miss on smoke. Seems like it's due to engine pressure. VERY interested in how much they tweak bills tune file if at all. I'm running mine in 2X and have hit upwards of 9.5 PSI for short distances. Have been doing a bunch of 1/4 mile timings to see if it makes a difference, although 40-120 may be more accurate. Don't want to run the 9+ PSI for too long with a stock engine. Haven't had an issue as of yet, but maybe I've just gotten lucky. Definitely shaved some seconds off the 1/4 mile though.


    @rabtech, @'StickerDick', others... - Just out of curiosity... in your opinion, what is the design of the machine capable of? It's not a drag race machine and definitely limitations on weight to rear tire gripping instead of spinning. Robert spoke about tire spin in another post. I had a MT drag tire on mine... think Robert put the same one on his for a bit... probably already melted it, but I had several instances where it gripped so much I ended up smoking my clutch. Maybe user error, don't know (know I don't like the stock clutch now). Point is, I'm not trying to get the fastest 1/4 mile time as it's not designed for that... just using it as a gauge for how far I can push the machine in it's current state and what else I can tweak to do more. I'd shoot for fastest 40-120 time, but I seem to always run out of road... I mean track :evil: . What are you getting for the 1/4 and 1/2 mile times? Alpha posted some time ago an 11.65 @ 114 MPH with a stock block. Don't know if that is wishful thinking or not, but fastest I've had is low 14's which I'm a bit disappointed with. I'd be much happier with 12's and very happy with 11's. You guys are pushing so much more PSI than I am and not sure what you have been seeing.


    Need to make a track day with you all someday!


    Anyone recommend the model and best head bolts to use on the stock engine? ... new clutch LOL...

    They have it for sale from the manufacturer for $1100 delivered right now as a "show special"... just an FYI.


    UPDATE... so the "show special" is ONLY at the SEMA show in Las Vegas. Sorry for the alarm... but those in that area can stop by from October 30th to Nov. 2nd.

    All,


    Sorry, this is my busy time of year and haven't been not he boards in possibly months. Didn't know if anyone else saw it or not, but Quick Jack was offering 20% (more or less) off of their products. Didn't know if folks saw that.


    UPDATE... so the "show special" is ONLY at the SEMA show in Las Vegas. Sorry for the alarm... but those in that area can stop by from October 30th to Nov. 2nd.

    I'm a noob when it comes to TC and SC, and maybe there was something about a 1/4, 1/2 or whatever, but in order to get more power or less power from either of them, there are things you can do and or change to do so. To my knowledge, there is no 1/4 or 1/2, it's just as @BKL describes. In order to turn either up, you need to adjust the boost pressure and both can be adjusted, just by different means. An engine can only handle so much though. I know many who are running the stock engine with 10 PSI on a supper charger. I did decide to roll the dice and put my TC at 10 PSI, but I also normally drive with my RPMs at 3K too and if needing to punch the gas, I'll downshift first in order to ride the RPMs higher. Now... what I do like about TC is the fact that no boost pressure = stock engine. SC is always blowing, no? I like the ability to control when I want the boost, but when it comes on, it comes on strong... or that is how I would describe it. I've never driven a SC, so only speaking to what I've been told.


    PS... sorry this post may be way late as I refreshed the page and there's a whole other page of comments. Haven't been on here in a week and thought it odd. Now back to reading.

    Has anyone seen a wind tunnel test done ?
    Has anyone seen kits to fill in the big open areas in the front or kits to redirect any airflow ?


    Is there any prove that those rear wings even generate any down force that Benefits it at a speed

    Wind tunnel test DONE... sure. Was doing work with Boeing with their digital photograph department and they have a tunnel. Done with a Slingshot... nope. Most add ons I would think would increase weight and drag. I do know @WrongWheelDrive cracked his wing on his slingshot by doing over 120 MPH with it. Not sure how much down pressure you need to crack it, but was enough to crack.


    Problem I see with the wings is sure, there is probably down pressure the faster you go, but I see the issue being that you need more down pressure at slower speeds... or that is my totally uneducated theory.


    Thanks @rabtech for the info. I guess I have to go back to my MT rear wheel for a bit. I can say that they just repaved my road in front of my house and the soft asphalt really works well for sticking your wheel LOL. That and if I blow the engine I can turn into my driveway real quick smile-squared

    another radio install question
    Im getting ready to install a diffrent radio in my 2017 SL. It has the small radio im putting in a 7 inch touch screen. I bought the harness from slingmods their telling me there is a 3 prong plug behind radio to plug into is this correct?

    If I said "it depends", would that be OK LOL...


    So different years had different plugs. The thing is, what year is your wiring harness as it may not be 2017? Now, if you have a 2017 slingshot that has a 2016 wiring harness... you have 3 prong plug and what they told you is correct. If you have a 2017 with a 2017 wiring harness, you have 4 prong plug. My 2017 slingshot has a 2016 wiring harness with 3 prong plug. According to Polaris's wiring diagram, the 2017 is supposed to have a 4 prong plug for the stereo. Who figured.


    2018 they started with a 5 prong plug to support ride command.


    PS... just in case... I do have these plugs in stock if you need an adapter.

    Hey all. Sorry, been away with family matters with extended family and business. ... @frehleycomet. If you still need help, send me a personal message up top and I'll give you my cell phone. Can take it out in no less than 2 minutes. ... 10 seconds if you have some battery operated tools and know how LOL.


    PS... need to know what "support" and what windshield you are installing though as you may need do do more than just remove stereo head. Ride Command has a different support bracket than the standard radio.