Posts by BKL

Unfortunately, I seem to have developed the habit of not going to bed until 3 or 4 a.m. and then not waking up until after Noon. Last night I planned on trying to get my Slingshot's belt realigned for what seems like the Billionth time, but I had trouble falling until around 6.30 a.m. and didn't wake up until almost 4 p.m. i can't seem to break this habit and it doesn't leave me much time during the day to get anything done.

When I was a kid, my siblings would drop off to sleep almost immediately, but I always took an hour or 2 to get to sleep. I still have the same issues today. Even before I retired, I rarely went to bed before 11 p.m., even thought I had to be at work NLT 9 a.m. Fortunately, I had a relatively short commute going the opposite of traffic.

K&N has a kit for cleaning and re-oiling their air filters. You should be able to find it at an auto parts store, Amazon or Wlamart. Here's a link to the K&N product - https://www.knfilters.com/99-5…-care-service-kit-aerosol. K&N shows an MSRP or $20, but I've seen it for as low as $14 +/-.

Before I added my Hahn turbo kit, I had a Hahn CAI. Personally, I think the difference in sound from the CAI plays a psychological role in making the CAI feel like it's making a difference. Just my opinion, since I never dyno'd it.

Got this in an SF author email I receive -

Here is a general wiring schematic for the late 2016 and presumably 2017 Slingshots. Polaris has a penchant for splicing/bunching wire connections. Most, if not all of the relays receive power from the splices shown here in the shaded area. Unfortunately, the screen capture doesn't really portray the clarity that can be obtained from the PDF versions. Hope this helps.

A couple years ago, my engine would sometimes stumble under acceleration if I shifted gears around 4K. My first fear was the fuel pump going bad. Not wanting to pull the rear apart when I didn't know exactly what the problem was (along with how much Polaris charges for a fuel pump assembly).

I initially found a simple, much less expensive replacement for the fuel pump that fits in place of the fuel pump in the fuel pump assembly. See this post - https://www.fuelpumpfactory.co…2015-2020-replaces-252124.

I then tried running a can of Heet fuel line additive. and refilled the fuel tank before trying a can of Sea Foam in the tank. I used a full can and again went thru 2 tanks. After these 2 doses, the stumbling cleared up. I now try to remember to add a can of Sea Foam (or Walmart's cheaper clone) every other month or so.

Obviously, in a TB system, any additive in the gasoline is not going to have any effect as far as keeping the TB clean, so the approac in the linked article above may help in cases of dirty TB valves/sensors.

Quote from Trooper

my buddy bought the 2022 model and they do not like the sound of there stereo, they say they can not hear it well. so they ordered the roll hoops pods and speakers from slingmods. can they be plugged into the factory system??

he may need to match the connectors. When I wired my 2015 Base Slingshot, I used some 2-wire waterproof connectors similar to used on some headlights just in case I never need to pull them.

I remember that the nut could be easily turned by hand once loosened, but at some point, I believe I must have cross-threaded it on the shaft. The thread chaser made it almost as easy to turn as before. I suspect there may still be a small disruption inside the nut since while I can now turn it by hand, it feels like something is still dragging when I turn it. I can only assume I messed it up at some point because before thread-chasing the shaft, the nut was still difficult to turn even with a long-handled bar or torque wrench.

I studied engineering my first year at college so I wouldn't have to take a foreign language. Got tired of school and joined the Army to be sent to foreign language school! Still, it seems to me that matching threads should turn relatively smoothly, with the torque applied appropriately to secure the nut in place. Not saying freely spinning, but not so tight the threads don't properly interact.

Before thread-chasing, trying to turn the nut on the shaft really felt like it was cross-threaded. I didn't see any really distorted threads, just some small burrs that looked like they might be causing some resistance.

Quote from openair

I have come to the conclusion that the latch lever was not coming clear up after closing the hood. After numerous opening and closings in the garage, I noticed that after closing the hood, I could reach down and pull the release lever UP just a bit, leaving the latches prone to open under the air pressure of meeting a semi in a strong cross wind.

Haven't had a chance to "road test" it, but I have high hopes of having solved it. Of course, should the hood go sailing over my head someday, I'll be stuck with the thought that, "Well, I guess that theory is shot to hell."

I, too, have noticed that the rear hood latches sometimes aren't fully open after lifting the hood. My solution was to install some hood springs (I think I bought them at a local auto parts store, but don't remember any specifics) to cause the hood to pop up enough that it can't push back down on the latch once I've released the latches. IIRC, I also shortened the springs so they wouldn't lift as high, just enough to make sure the posts on the hood wouldn't touch the latches once the latches were released.

Here's a pic -

I, too, thought the front-hinged hood design would result in air pressure keeping the hood down if the latches released, but I can state from personal experience that my hood started lifting up after the hood popped while I was doing around 60 mph. Definitely an Oh Crap moment!

My "mod" today was using my newly delivered M20x1.5 thread chaser on my pivot shaft threads. I can now use my fingers to tighten the pivot shaft nut until it touches the swing-arm's outer bearing. I had noticed how tight is was, needing a ratchets and socket to turn the nut even when it was not touching the bearing. Removed the nut and realized I must have had some grit or something that made the nut difficult to turn that also seemed to have left some rough spots on the shaft threads. Chose the tread chaser since it's not designed to cut threads, juts improve them. I know that some people use dies to clean threads, but I was afraid I might get a die stated crooked and end up really screwing up the pivot shaft threads even worse.

I still need to make sure I remove all of the Silicone lube spray I used during the thread-chasing process since I don't want to risk any left-over lube causing the pivot shaft nut to lose tension once I finish trying to get the darned belt tension loosened and the belt alignment readjusted. I've lost count o how many times I've adjusted the belt to track near the inside of the pulley only to have it move all the way to the right during my test drive.

Just looking at the pics on SlingMods, they look like they fit the same as the 2020+ outer lights.

From my Funnies Pusher -

Quote from SlingLow

I need to get a set of those. I have the mniron hood pins and one fell off last fall. Now I've got an ugly hole showing in the hood so I'll have no problem making it a little bigger. The push-pins I've had do the job but can be a little finicky when opening the hood. I think I'll like the latch style better.

The nice part about the Aerocatch latch is a pin physically moves forward into the post that is mounted to the frame and can not move back out without the handle changing position and that is very visible.

Pick a tire you're interested in and then check the tire manufacturer's website to see if they specify minimum, recommended and maximum wheel widths. Here's a link to NItto's 555 2 - https://www.nittotire.com/car-…ra-high-performance-tire/. Once you find the widest size recommended for your wheel width, the next step is looking for the closest height tire to your stock tire height. http://www.willtheyfit.com provides a visual comparison between two different tires so you can see how different tire sizes, even different wheel sizes compare. The one drawback to WillTheyFit is its speedometer impact calculation isn't the best.

I use a 315/35ZR17 Nitto 555 G2 on my 2015 Base model Slingshot using an American Muscle 17"x10.5" 10th Anniversary Cobra style wheel. I used the Nitto website to verify the wheel width was acceptable for the Nitto 555 G2 tire in that size and then used http://www.willtheyfit.com to see how that wheel/tire combo would sit compared to the stock wheel/tire combo. In my case, the 28mm Offset the Am Mustang wheel has causes the entire wheel to sit roughly 1.5" to the left, but I have never encountered any handling irregularities attributable to the different Offset. That particular wheel cost me around $150 shipped and is similar enough to the base model wheel design that once painted to match the base wheels that it doesn't bother my OCD.

Quote from Luster49

New to the forum got to change out my clutch master cylinder how do I remove the hose with the pin or clamp in back of cylinder

The Service Manual doesn't mention anything special about removing the clamp, so I assume use pliers or clamp pliers that have a groove in each jaw to better engage the clamp fingers.

Those are Aerocatch hood pins. They require a recessed hole for mounting and are pretty much flush with the hood when closed. Available in locking or non-locking. Prices start around $70 for the non-locking version. Should be available on Amazon or just about any of the car parts stores online.

there should be a how-to post either here or over on http://www.slingshotforums.com. It was posted several years ago and I can't remember which forum.

OK. I have attached .jpg files showing the wiring schematic and a close-up of the relevant wiring schematics for the Accessory power ports from the late 2016 models from my 2015-17 Service Manual. I also tried to attach a Power Point Slide Show of the same things, but the forum wouldn't recognize the file extension. Double-clicking the images should allow you to see a bigger version for better clarity. If you PM me your email address, I can email the files, including the Slide Show.

From looking at the wiring schematics, if you have power to the glove-box power port,then the only thing I can think of that would cause the rear power port to not operate would be if it somehow got disconnected. Hopefully, you can search and identify the physical wires using the info I placed on the .jpg files. Hope this helps.

I, too, have experienced the hood popping up and I was surprised how high it lifted since I wastraveling around 60 mph. In my case, I was on a sweeping turn to the left, so I could still see the shoulder past the hood and was able to pull over and re-close the hood. Now, I always press with the palm of my hand at the outer rear edges of the hood above the latch mechanism. I then try lifting up the outer edge of the hood on each side to verify that the hood is securely latched. If I notice the hood moving much while driving, I pull over and check the latches. If the rear latches pop, it's usually obvious, but the front of the hood sometimes will appear to move even though it's properly latched, presumably from air flowing under the hood. I recently installed DDM Works' hood vents that are supposed to allow air pressure under the hood to exit from under the hood and I don't recall seeing the front edge of the hood move as much.

From looking at the 2016 (Late Build) Wiring Schematic, it looks like the the power flows thru the Accessory Fuse and then splits to the rear power port and to the Accessory Relay to switch on the Front Power port when the key is turned on. It's taking me forever to neatly color in the wring schematic to show this. I'm limited to using PowerPoint and each little line section involves several steps and is taking a while. I'll try to get some more info posted in the next day or so.

Sorry, I actually fell asleep last night. Will try to focus on the Wiring Schematics later (I hope).

Unfortunately, I didn't have any fun trying to follow the wiring diagrams from my 2015-17 Service Manual. I haven't located anything marked as the Glove-box power port, but I assume the Accessory relay controls power to the front and rear power ports. I noticed two circuits that branch off from the Accessory relay, but I haven't traced them to their end points. Once I have them identified, I'd like to color them in on the schematic before posting here. Hope I can identify the problem, but no guarantees.

Since you had power to the front power port after switching relays, try switching them back to see if you still have power to the front port. If you don't, replace the Accessory relay. Once you know you have a good relay providing power to the front port, you might want to remove the rear deck and check if the wiring is still connected to the rear port. It's a lot of crews to remove, but maybe that's why you could have. I am still trying to identify the power source for the rear port.I don't understand how the Accessory relay can trigger the front power port while still providing always on power to the rear port. I'll keep looking.

I hope to get something posted later tonight.