On my 2015 Base, I'm running a Nitto 555 G2 315/35R17 on an American Muscle 10th Anniversary Cobra Style 17 x 10.5 wheel. That's the narrowest wheel Nitto recommends for a 315 tire. 11 is best. The drawback is the 28 mm offset causes the tire to center over 1" to the left. I haven't noticed any handling problems. I'm considering getting a stock rear wheel widened by 1-1.5" and mounting a 305/30R18.
Somebody else is running a 295/45R?18? tire. Don't remember what size wheel, but he claims the extra sidewall gives more flex for better traction. He had his ECU reflashed to the SL wheel info so his speedo/odometer work properly.
Posts by BKL
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Way back when (1960s-70s, maybe earlier), people started installing threaded studs that stuck up thru the hood so a cotter pin (typically secured via a cable) could be stuck thru the stud to keep the hood from popping open unexpectedly. These were usually referred to as hood pins. Later, more complex locking mechanisms came along. Some folks like hood pins that have a plate installed on the hood that hold a sliding pin that goes thru the stud to secure the hood and do not use a lanyard that might scratch the paint. Other folks came up with push-buttons or locking push-buttons that clamped over the ball-end of the stud to secure the hood (Quick Latch). Another popular design is the AeroCatch that has a large plate secured to the hood that both locks thru the stud and also provides a visual affirmation that the hood is properly secured.
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Here's a YouTube video that addresses all 3 styles - -
I also rented the steering puller from autozone and figured out that I needed to get the 10-32 bolts from my local Ace hardware store for it to work. I ended up snapping the 10-32 bolts. Resorted to manhandling it off with the aid of a hard plastic mallet.
I was concerned the 10-32 screws would break, but after spraying the steering shaft with PB Blaster and leaving it overnight, the AutoZone puller and 10-32 screws pulled the steering wheel w/o problem.
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Congrats definitely due. It takes special people to serve as guardians or foster parents and to provide a child a loving, permanent home.
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Just be cautious not to reduce the resolution to much on your jpg files because the forum reduces the quality when you upload them also. The only exception is the gallery. It doesn't strip that much detail and resolution.
I always check my pics after posting to make sure they look OK and can be easily read an d haven't run into any problems using the default conversion settings. Update - Now if I can just get my figners to type properly!
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I like using Open Office since it's FREE and allows me to easily annotate my pics for emphasis, but it does do things in a slightly different manner compared to MS Office and can take a little getting used to.
This online software makes it pretty easy to create animated GIFs from individual pics or video files and also supports editing features to reduce file size. Update - Forgot to include the URL - Animated GIF editor and GIF maker.
I also like this Site since it allows you to convert and download web videos such as those found on YouTube - [OFFICIAL] KeepVid Video Download Tips: Download YouTube Videos, Facebook, Vimeo, Twitch.Tv, Dailymotion, Youku, Tudou, Metacafe and more!
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They must be installing them differently that the originals. All I had to do was loosen the nut and pull, rocking side to side.
In my case, the steering wheel was installed 39000 miles and 3 years ago., so that might have given it time to be set in its ways.
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Folks who use their mobile devices for access often face bandwidth limitations. Reducing your pic sizes can also reduce the cost and time of picture transmission.
Microsoft Office or free software such as Open Office allows you to import your pics into the Presentation feature where you can crop or otherwise resize your pics, even place multiple pics on the same slide. You can also easily annotate your pics for emphasis. You can then use Save As or Export to convert your edited pics into a reduced size JPEG file which will load faster while reducing bad width costs to the forum and/or users on mobile devices.
Using an online conversion site to convert short videos to animated GIFs can also save bandwidth costs. -
Just went thru the experience of pulling my steering wheel, so it's time to rant!
Hey, Polaris, remember you used Metric threads just about everywhere else on the Slingshot, IIRC, so why were 10-32 threaded holes used on the steering wheel meaning none of the normally available steering wheel pullers can work? RANT over.
You'll need two 3" - 10-32 screws. 2/5" might work, but 3" gives some leeway.
I first went to Oreilly and rented their steering wheel puller because it looked like it could accommodate a wide variety of steering wheel bolt sizes. Unfortunately, it didn't include 10-32 screws ( I won't dignify Polaris' choice as a bolt). Also, the "H"-shaped pulling piece was too wide for the 10-32 crews to be inserted, so I had to return it unfinished.
Fortunately, the OEM brand Steering wheel puller I got from Autozone, while it lacked the needed size screws, was narrow enough to allow both 10-32 screws to be attached to the steering wheel. I used fender washers so the 10-32 screw heads didn't fall thru the puller arms and had to bend a portion of each fender washer to clear the puller bolt.
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When the changed the bad sensors...did they change the brake fluid also?
I assume you were asking me. NO. Polaris wasn't paying for it as part of the recall and I hadn't yet hit 30K miles, so it wasn't due. I now have just over 39000 miles and plan om having the brake fluid and coolant flushed, as well as have the sensors replaced, assuming they are available.
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I have heard there might be link between dirt in the brake fluid and how the sensors operate (or don't operate). -
Legally no....what will you do if the brakes do fail and you disconnected the warning lights that could have saved you....just saying.
Not really worried about that after having been told by the dealer to go ahead and drive it when they didn't have the sensors when the problem first showed up in late 2016/early 2017. I put several thousand miles on it waiting for the replacement parts and have since put at least 3,000 miles on it since they started failing again.
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To cancel the cruise control when the brakes are applied ..... that is all that circuit does ...........
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Makes me wonder if I get the CC to disengage using a simple switch on the brake pedal? that would eliminate the problem with the sensors.
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Doesn't it disable the ABS? Normal break function continues but ABS is unavailable .... at least that's what I thought I knew
Per the o(2015) Owner's manual, pages 22 - 23, there are separate idiot lights to indicate malfunctions for the brakes, ABS, TC and ESP.
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The Service Advisory clearly states "There is no change in brake function as a result of this failure." The only impact most of us have ever noticed is loss of cruise control functionality, so what is the exact purpose of these sensors?
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Don't know how good they are, but Achilles offers that size in their ATR Sport tire (ATR SPORT UTQG 400-AA-A ) in 255/35R20, a relatively inexpensive tire for its specs. Unfortunately, they don't offer that size in their newer ATR Sport 2.
I just ordered an Achilles Sport tire in 275/35R18 (Amazon $77, but a little more expensive now), as a spare and am looking for a 10.5 - 11" wide 18" wheel to maybe try the ATR Sport 2 in a 305/30R18 (about $150 online). -
I've been thinking about using at least 4 hood pins to replace the factory latches. I originally liked the hood pins that have a plate bolted to the hood that has a track with a sliding locking pin that you can't loose, but after watching a video comparing AeroCatch latches to regular hood pins, I like the Aerocatches since you can easily tell if they are latched or not.
I'd like to mount my rear catches/pins so they are approximately in the middle of the hood accent strips. My first thoughts for mounting the rear latch pins were for a more complex mounting method, but I think the below approach should meet the need. I haven't fabbed any mockups yet, but I'm currently leaning towards using a flat piece of aluminum bar thick and wide enough to minimize deflection with slots near the outer edges that would allow one or more hose-clamps to hold each side in place. Since the frame tubes in both areas are angled away from each other, the bar should not slide around once clamped in place.
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Constructive feedback appreciated. Sarcastic criticism, not so much! -
Like I posted on TDS when I saw this Service Advisory - My sensors installed as the 2017 Sensor Recall solution are starting to trigger the BF light. It appears the sensors only seem to affect the Cruise Control. Anybody know if it's possible to just bypass the sensors w/o screwing up any of the safety nannies?
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I did it back in 2015, not sure if it helped or hurt anything. It did help bring the steering wheel back to center when turning so I left it.
As I recall, the lack of elf-centering of the steering was Otter's main complaint about the Slingshot.
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I was reading thru this thread just to see if someone else Posted about Otter's 2nd Mod, and saw that @BryanL beat me to it.
I haven't done that mod and have been happy with my steering/handling.
I seem to recall someone posting that some Slingshots might not have enough shims to allow this mod to be performed as it seems every Slingshot has some variation in the frame which evidently is at least partially corrected via the shims. I haven't really personally checked, so this might or might not be true.
Those who have done the mod seem to usually swear by it. -
Oh that explains it. Germans have no since of humor... LOL.
Just kidding @Zeeboo and glad we got that all cleared up.
Sure they do...
A German Coast Guard recruit was standing watch and heard a radio call for help, hearing the radio operator say in English, "Help! We're sinking." He immediately replied and wanted to know what they were 'sinking about!'
