- Somebody on TDS had some really jazzy flower patterned seat covers. I just cannot bring myself to mention his name.
I remember those, I would have to go to TDS to look the name up. I'm really good at forgetting people that don't matter. I'm also good at forgetting all names in general.
Same username here, too!
You know that ol saying "never do today what you can put off til tomorrow"? Well it rained last night. Now I get to clean up wet fiber from 6 critters.
I sure hope that hair is not as oily as sheepskins are. Worst childhood memory is holding sheep while they're being clipped. Nasty!
Display MoreYes, I purchased the Forgestar F14. There is a grey option for this wheel, but it isn't a good/perfect match to the stock base wheels. Because this is primarily my track setup, I simple rattle canned the wheel to a close color and called it good. If I was doing it for my primary wheels, I would have the wheel company or local person powder coat it the matching stock base wheel color. The base wheels have 8 split spokes, whereas the F14 (thus the 14) has 7 split spokes. Most people don't really notice the difference...
There are no real performance advantages specific to each concave type. To go wide 11inch or larger, you need to choose deep concave or super deep concave. It is more about how wide you want to go with the wheel and how you want it to look. Mine is a deep concave.
http://www.forgestar.com/wheel…ged-monoblock-series/f14/I apologize if the post was somewhat confusing. It depends what type of spacer/adapter you use. It would be nuts to use the below type of spacer and space your wheel out any considerable distance. You are taking away too many threads on the studs and are just opening up a can of potential issues. To run this type, you would want to press in new longer studs to counter the spacing distance.
The below option is fine and doesn't require new studs, as they are the adapter type.
That Forgestar F14 wheel looks looks pretty much like the Mustang wheel I'm now running to accommodate my Nitto 555 G2 315/35R17 tire, although since the F14 doesn't have the shiny rim edge the AM wheel has, it may be an even better match to the Base Slingshot wheel. Here's a pic of the 17 x 10.5" American Muscle 10th Anniversary Cobra Style Wheel (on right) next to a stock Slingshot wheel (on left).
Thanks for tipping me off to the F14 since it maintains the proper offset w/o needing any adapters.
I'm just gonna say. for the 1 to 4 times a year you need to remove one plug, and given the simplicity of said removal, this does not seem necessary to me. Anyone changing the oil monthly would/could benefit. I'd rather drain it to the bottom of the pan...
Hey, this is America where convenience and instant gratification tops all! I find the valve very convenient and my mechanic thought it was pretty cool, too.
Found a few more -
How to Drive a Turbocharged Car – Five Things to Never Do in a Turbo Car
I Need Some Turbo Driving Tips (Posts to a forum, so you may need to filter thru some of the posts) 
I haven't checked these, but here's all of the links I've collected on alignment -
http://itistheride.boards.net/thread/178
http://www.slingshotforums.com…alignment-procedure.5661/
http://spydercomfort.com/slingshotdealers.htm
https://www.google.com/webhp?e…chool+alignment+procedure
https://www.google.com/search?q=old-style+wheel+alignment
http://www.mc-95reversetrikegr…lignment-and-tracking.php
Display MoreHave fun with widening a wheel. I thought this would be the ticket too, until I really understood what needed to happen for it to work correctly. I just ended up buying a Forgestar 18X12 rear rim that somewhat matches the fronts and it was less hassle and money. Here is why widening a wheel is not a good solution for a rear wheel of a reverse trike...
1. Stock wheels are not that great of quality to be widening
2. When they widen the wheel, they can only widen the inside portion/barrel, which means that your offset gets all out of wack
3. If you widen a wheel by one inch, now you have added 25mm of offset to the wheel, giving you a 70mm offset rim
4. This means you now have to use spacers to push it back left (drivers side) close to the 45mm stock offset
5. Spacing it back that far requires longer wheels studs or wheel adapters
6. $400 later, you could have just bought a quality wheel in 18x12 or 20x12 in a 45 offset
If anyone really wants to run a 305 setup on the stock base model setup, it is possible. There are tires like the Nitto NT05R drag radial that come in 305/45/18 and are recommended on a 9.5 inch rear wheel. When you do this rear setup, you need to make sure your fronts are taller too so that the rolling diameter difference stays similar to stock. You would want to run 235/50/17 fronts. This is a good setup for someone looking for good performance and higher sidewalls for comfort. Nitto Neo Gen for the fronts and a Nitto NT555R for the rear. Just don't expect good cold or wet traction from the rear drag radial. I am sure dry traction would be really good though!
I was still figuring out how the widening would affect the wheel. I had been thinking they cut the wheel in the middle, but the offset will be affected no matter which side they attach the new material to. The set of Base wheels I bought are in a color my Wife likes and had a decent amount of tread left on them.
I'll check out ForgeStar. Looks like the F14 is the closest match to the Base wheels. Is that what you picked?
While I've got your attention, are there any significant advantages to the Semi-, Deep- or Super Deep-Concave wheels? The Semi-Concave would be limited to 18x10.5 for the correct offset, but the Deep and SuperDeep-Concave come in a variety of offset and width choices.
Finally, based on your experience, do you feel a particular finish is closest to the color of the Base wheels?
How many miles you got on that Nitto now?
Counting the miles I put on it when I first tested the tire/wheel combo before I installed the turbo, I'd estimate I have just under 6000 miles on it -
At this rate, I may make it to around 10K miles or another 3-4 months or so before I need to replace it. I already have an Achilles Sport 275/35R18 tire on my original rear wheel and I just bought a second set of wheels so I can widen the second rear wheel from 9.5" to 10.5-11" wide to accommodate an Achilles Sport 2 305/30R18 as an economical rear tire replacement. Unfortunately, most places are out of stock for that tire and I haven't sent the wheel off for widening, but I just located a company that has the tire for $101 + $25 shipping. The Achilles Sport 2 is rated at 400 for tread-life so it should last as long as the Kendas or a little more. My other option will be a Nitto Motivo AS UHP tire in the same size as my 555 G2 (315/35R17) at a little over $200 delivered w/o mounting fees.
@FunCycle as we discussed at MV I dig the Achilles. Since i have 16/18 setup for track and the 18\20 for summer Im getting the 275/40/20 rear tire . IMO the price of the Achilles and how ive seen it perform so far...I'm sold 2c
I currently have a Nitto 555 G2 315/35R17 on a Mustang wheel on the rear of my Slingshot and it seems to be lasting OK so far. I bought an Achilles Sport 275/35R18 as a backup spare. After reading about and pricing the Achilles Sport 2 305/30R18, I bought a set of Base wheels with the intent of having the rear wheel widened about 1-1.5", but now, the 305 seems to be in short supply, so I haven't widened the rear wheel. I'm sure more tires will be coming at some point, so I'll probably proceed with my plan at some point.
jes somthin bout that number!
BTW he said it would be an even number
Oh that's right,,,,,,,,,,,it takes 2 2 69 and that's an even number,,,,,,,,,,,I see what you did there!
Totally unintentional, maybe. I was originally thinking 2270, but dropped it down because I subconsciously must have liked the 69 aspect more than a round even 2270...
Obviously, I also can't read or remember S..t!
Display MoreToday I'm running on a busted rear wheel and tire.
Going thru a highway construction area, minding my own business, when low and behold, spinning out into my lane is a damn rock about the size of a large softball.
I swerved hard left missed it with the front, but caught it on the rear.
Bent the rim and tire went flat.
After a long workout my son and I got it sealed enough to get me home.
The hwy. Safety superintendent showed up took a report and pictures of the rim and the rock, and told me to get it fixed and they would pay for it. He said it cant be more than two or three hundred. Ha.ha.ha.!
Got the rim to the dealership where I bought my sling. Bill......$998.78 for both tire and rim. I about fainted.
I have the 20" rim on the rear of mine.
Cant wait until tomorrow morning when I hand this guy the bill. He's gonna s*it himself.
Well they pay for the damage, or they pay for court costs and damage.
At least they initially acknowledged responsibility... Not always the case depending on where something like that happens.
Back in the beginning 2015 there was a problem with the clutch wiring getting cut or something like that.
IIRC, the clutch wiring was routed such that it might get pinched and then cause a short.
@rabtech has already stated he weighs close to 400 lbs. The Slingshot weighs around 1740-50lbs and he's added some extra equipment, but it is highly unlikes the total weight has grown to much over 2275 or so.
Guess I'll go with 2269.
Has anyone tried the Riken Raptor ZR tire? I am thinking about putting them on the front and the rear. The summer tire, they also have in the A/S. The fronts 225-45-18 is $82.93 The rear is $95.12 at Tire Rack. Tread width is max and the tread looks good for dry and wet traction. Reviews look good except noise when they wear down. BYE/BYE BFG Comp 2 Summer
Those look interesting.
What size did you put on the rear? TireRack told me Riken didn't offer tires in the stock sizes for the Slingshot Base model and didn't make it easy to see what sizes were offered.
As far as Riken tires, they have been around since at least 2005 and are a Michelin brand according to this article - Michelin introduces Riken Raptor ZR ultra-high performance tire - Retail - Modern Tire Dealer
Here's a YouTube review of Riken tires on a Civic Si -
valve, adapter and plastic clip - all came packaged together...
As a side note I was talking to a friend who had one of these installed on his Triumph Tr4-A. His collector buddy advised him to remove it. He said that because it made the oil drain opening smaller it prevented all of the oil from draining from the pan. Just curious if anyone here thinks that this is really something to worry about?...
I initially wondered about that for two reasons -
1) The valve has to fit in the drain hole so you're automatically limited by the size of the smaller hole thru the valve. This primarily serves to reduce the flow rate as opposed to how much oil is drained out.
2) This is where some folks might be having some concern in that the increased height above the bottom of the oil pan for the hole thru the valve will mean that a little more oil is left in the pan. In practical terms, this probably means a layer of oil equivalent to a few ounces more remains in the pan after the oil drains as low as the height of the valve hole will allow. I doubt it would be more than 3 oz or so and since we're adding 160 oz of fresh oil, I doubt it's enough old oil to make a significant difference.* The extra oil left in the pan might allow a little more debris to build up, but hopefully the warm-up period for the oil before being drained will have moved most particles into suspension in the oil and will be removed during the drain [process.
If Someone is really concerned about the old oil or debris not getting removed, just remove the valve every 4th or 5th oil change. This means they'll need some replacement washers for the older F series valves, but the newer SX valves don't use washers.
Personally, I feel the convenience outweighs any potential liabilities.
* Something to keep in mind is that we are probably all using Full Synthetic oil in our Slingshots and many of the new synthetics are boasting they're good for much longer than the 5000 mile (or less) oil change intervals most of us follow.
Sorry BKL but I'm gonna disagree with that torque value, if I tightened up mine that much it would be very hard to steer. When I went in to have my clock spring replaced the mechanic probably put that kind of torque on it and it was hard as hell to steer on the way home. I ended up loosing the steering nut a quarter turn at a time and then used the steering wheel puller to pull the SW up to the nut till it was easy to steering.
I'm glad i qualified my guesstimate because I was WAY OFF,... SORRY!
Here's the 2015-17 Service Manual page -
Read the article to understand the emphasis on the deal cooling off! 
Finally Available: The Ford GT You Can Afford | ReinCarNation Magazine
Actually, @rabtech already did when he started this forum for us to self-publish. Adding paper just raises costs, IMO.
I cant give a hint. Some of you are within a few pounds now. So yall know what your doing. You cant fool me. I'm actually freaking in shock how close some of your are getting. That means yall know I am nearly 400 pounds with my shoes on.
I'm clearly out as I was going to go with about 300-350 lbs added weight as I didn't want to insult the bear!
Any Slingshot-focused magazine would have a pretty narrow audience group w/o factory sponsorship in some form or another. If Polaris chooses to NOT face that fact and accept the magazine's costs (partially or completely) as an advertising cost, I doubt any such magazine would survive at current sales totals. Maybe in a few more years, but I doubt the economics for a for-profit magazine will justify it for a while.
