Posts by BKL

  • Seat Belts

    I can get the buckle to engage w/o problem, but when I want to get out, the buckle sometimes seems to stick and not release as smoothly/quickly as I'd like. I end up needing to depress the release button while pulling on the belt to get it to release.

  • Big Purchases... like , dislike?

    Initially, I use the bed for some reading, but hen I'm ready to try to sleep, I use the floor with a blanket half under me and covering me and with a 20" windows fan blowing over me from my head towards my feet. After an hour or more, I usually transition back to the bed for the rest of whatever sleep I get.

  • Steering wheel off-center -- UPDATE

    Although Polaris lists some info on Camber and Caster, IIRC, the ONLY alignment adjustment Polaris designed to be adjusted was toe-in. Camber and Caster are NOT considered adjustable.
    Based on my local Laser Alignment dealer experience, he used 2 folding 4 ft rulers that he positioned dead center on my rear tire and then used equidistant measurements out from that point to set the front alignment.

  • Questions for first time buyer

    Advice for anyone concerned about purchasing anything found on Craigslist - Our local police dept has started offering a location at a local police station just for Craigslist transactions. They have an officer there from 6 - 8 pm, Tuesdays & Thursdays. If your local PD doesn't offer something like this, make a suggestion for your PD to do so or simply arrange to meet the seller at the PD, preferably inside.

  • Aligning the hood after screwing it up! :(

    Quote from RevDynamics

    Major bummer the hood got stars in it. Didn't have that problem with the air box myself but it definitely didn't fit like a glove for us either. Maybe time for some racing stripes or some creativity.

    After a little research, I think I may have found a couple of decals that should cover up the stars. I just need to check size and placement to make sure everything looks good. Of course, I still need to get the hood properly aligned first!

  • New store is online and has everything that has been asked for. Please check it out.

    Quote from rabtech

    @BKL I have already opened a replacement ticket and you should be receiving a new Stein. Glad you posted a picture....

    ??? The main reason I posted a picture at all was your previous comment about wanting to see how the beach towel embroidery turned out. I didn't mean my post as complaining about anything! I'm happy with what I ordered. That's why I added the Big Grin emoji! :D I just included the lint ball since my Wife had pulled it from the dryer filter. I guess she felt it was a lot for a first wash, but I have no complaints with the towel, the coffee cup or the stein. I ordered the green stein because, of the colors offered, it was the closest color to yellow. Please cancel your do-over order as I am perfectly happy with what I received.
    Thanks for your concerns, but I'm a happy customer.

  • Aligning the hood after screwing it up! :(

    Quote from RevDynamics

    Major bummer the hood got stars in it. Didn't have that problem with the air box myself but it definitely didn't fit like a glove for us either. Maybe time for some racing stripes or some creativity.

    I took off my old Hahn CAI airbox last June getting ready to install my Hahn turbo kit and tried to rely on my memory when I went to install the turbo version. If I had simply read the instructions, I would have avoided both the damage to the hood AND the need to realign the hood and the front latches. (I need a head-banging against a brick wall emoji here)

  • Aligning the hood after screwing it up! :(

    Copied from another thread -
    Since I removed my hood to install extended range hood hinges, I decided to install my Hahn CoolRam Airbox designed for my Hahn turbo. I previously had the Hahn CAI which uses the same box with the opening for the air tube on the driver side instead of the turbo's passenger side. While installing the new airbox, I realized the support brackets had not been made properly because the holes to connect the brackets to the airbox were not drilled properly. I drilled new holes so the airbox would mount lower with the front end of the airbox resting on the bracket behind the center headlights.[s][/s] When I went to test close the hood with the new hinges, I went to gently push down on the same locations I have always used to make sure the latches were securely closed and I was EXTREMELY unhappy when I saw I now have 2 star-shaped cracks in my hood paint from the edges of the airbox pushing up against the hood. Since I had my Slingshot painted yellow a couple years ago, the repair is not going to be easy or cheap and I am very displeased. I will be going out to try and trim some of the upper front corners off the airbox for additional clearance. Hahn supplies some heavy rubber molding that fits over the edges of the airbox and seals against the hood, but I hadn't installed that since I wanted to check clearances. My earlier Hahn CAI used the same rubber molding and it pushed up against the hood making it harder to latch, so I had used some foam molding designed to seal window AC units in place, but I hadn't yet installed the foam molding.


    UPDATE - After looking at my installation some more, it looks like I may have screwed up in that I secured the rear of the airbox first. Had I mounted the brackets to the airbox and then tried the install, I probably would have realized that the front edge of the airbox needs to be below and not resting on the edge of the frame behind the center headlights. That would have placed the CoolRam airbox low enough to not contact the hood! Looks like the cracks are indeed my fault for failing to think thru what I was doing and not taking the time to find the instructions I have for my turbo install. Of course, it being my fault just makes my day suck even more! At least I have an excuse to try repainting my Slingshot at some point (although I definitely lack @Painter's skills)!
    I now think the improper location of the airbox was also why my hood didn't seem to closing and latching properly. I had thought the hood had somehow gotten repositioned during the hood hinge install, but now it seems the problem was me having installed the airbox too high and basically causing the hood to get propped up!


    After reinstalling my airbox using the holes hahn drilled for the support brackets, I believe I now have the airbox in the correct position.

    If you follow @'samowens44'' TD Hood Hinge Install video, everything should work properly once you reattach the hood to the hood brackets. Unfortunately, because I incorrectly positioned the Hahn turbo airbox and didn't realize that its incorrect positioning was the reason my hood wouldn't close properly, I proceeded to loosen the bolts holding the hinge mounts in place. Since the gas cylinder that assists with proper hinge operation was still installed, as soon as I loosened the hinge bolts on the passenger side, the gas cylinder forced the hinge mount forward and really threw off the hood's alignment. I strongly suggest that if anyone who has the MadStad/Twist Dynamics extended-range hood hinges ever needs to adjust the hood hinge mounts, REMOVE the gas cylinder before loosening the hinge mount bolts!

    Now that my hood alignment has shifted so much, it will take careful tweaking of the hinge mount positioning to ensure that the rear latch pins are properly oriented above the rear latches. It doesn't take much movement to make a big change in the latch pin locations. One I have the rear latch pins properly positioned, I think all I will then need to do is to adjust the front latch positioning so they are properly positioned under the latch bolts attached to the upper hood hinge bracket.
    I also plan on calling MadStad tomorrow about using 2 gas cylinders instead of the one used in the current design. I think having a gas cylinder on each side should balance the forces of the gas cylinders.
    I plan on posting an update later.

  • REAR TIRE

    Quote from LargeCar

    I put the 255 45 20 tire on the back, took a 150 mile ride and had absolutely no problems with the nanny controls so you can call it a successful up size. Wife and I both agree the ride is so much better, softer over the bumps and seam laps, and the normal old guy driving is not effected. Did find the speedometer is off but in a weird way. At an indicated 60 mph the GPS says 57, and it seems to hold true from about 30 up to 80, about 3 mph high on the speedometer than gps.


    LC


    BFGoodrich G-Force Comp 2 A/S Tires | Passenger Performance All-Season Tires | Discount Tire

    A 255/45R20 tire should have about a 1" taller sidewall than the stock 255/35R20 aspect tire and should be turning at almost 70 mph at an indicated 65.
    According to the Discount Tire tire size calculator (Tire Size Calculator | Check Tire Size Conversion | Discount Tire) the larger tire should be turning at 69.9 mph at an indicated 65, (This is where things get weird) yet WillTheyFit.com reports the larger tire should be turning 60.5 mph at an indicated 65 (6.92% slower). Something between these 2 sites doesn't make sense!

  • Max number of things hooked directly to battery?

    Quote from BryanL

    Instead of running a bunch of wires to the battery itself, you can hook them to the terminal post on the other end of the red wire. That way you don't have to mess with a bunch of wire terminals every time you disconnect the battery.

    Using the red terminal on the alternator has the advantage of supplying power only when the engine is on.

  • Hahn Turbo – Installation, support and general comments

    Quote from Ghost

    I liked the post not because of the issues that you are having but because you have determined what was causing the problems and know how to correct it. As for the paint? That might give you a good excuse to put one of those custom graphics on the hood. I'd love to have one myself but there's just two things stopping me. Talent and Money, you have to have one or the other and I have neither!

    Thanks. I still need to fix one of the mounting screws and locknut as I think something either got cross-threaded or the angle I installed it thru the bracket and airbox allowed it to scrape against the side of the hole. I think repositioning it will provide the hood clearance I need, but I may need to readjust the hood hinge mounting points to the frame since I already shifted things before I realized the problem with the airbox positioning.
    I've never painted an entire car. I had a 1976 Ford Granada 4-door with the 351 V8 as well as 4-wheel disc brakes that were supposedly not common on the Granada. After the vinyl roof started self-destructing, I pulled it all off and did most of the prep work to get it repainted. That was a lot of work! Despite that experience, I've always been tempted to try painting an entire car, so who knows...
    A vinyl graphic might meet my needs, if I can find something I really like.

    Quote from funinthesun

    Ouch. Not trying to minimize your pain, but any chance of finding someone locally that has air brush skills that can "cover up" that area with some fancy graphics or skulls or something? It would be a lot faster than having the entire s/s repainted and a better job than trying to color match a 2 year old paint job. Hope you're able to remedy this easily

    I definitely lack airbrush/fine detail painting skills, so I'd need to find someone expert enough to do something like that.
    As far as my current solid yellow paint job, the kid that did it used PPG auto paint, but left some spots that I felt weren't really done that well, but I guess it was worth close to the $800 he charged. I rate it a 3-5 paint job since it looks good as long as you're at least 3-5 ft away from the Slingshot!
    If I were to try repainting my Slingshot, I'd need to redo everything as I have always liked Eastwood's Electric Yellow (Eastwood Electric Yellow 3:1 Single Stage Paint).

  • Max number of things hooked directly to battery?

    Some links on selecting a proper fuse for a circuit -


    Fuse Sizing - Learning Center - Powerlet Products


    How to Determine the Fuse/Wire Size for YOUR Project | Top Forum Picks - Oznium Blog


    Generally speaking, a 10A fuse should handle an 11A load for a much longer time than it could handle a 13A load without blowing. The extra time to blow prevents people from blowing fuses by accident. For example, an 18ga wire can handle a load of 15A, but for safety reasons, its practical current load is only around 8A. An 8A heating vest could be fused for 10A and could be wired with an 18ga wire, but the vest will produce more heat if the circuit uses a 16 or 14ga wire since there will be less voltage drop due to the wire's resistance. Think of it as a larger diameter hose allows more water to flow through it than a smaller diameter hose. Even though the 16 or 14 ga wire can handle a higher current load, the circuit in this case should still be fused for 10A since that is the closest fuse size for that load. The heavier wire reduces the chance of the circuit overheating and the 10A fuse will do a better job of protecting the heating vest since it only needs 8A power. Even though the wire size might support a larger current load, running a 15A fuse might mean the heating vest could be exposed to higher power levels than it is designed for. This why a circuit should be fused for an expected load, but the wiring should be sized for the next higher load as a safety precaution.


    Circuit sizing is a subjective area, which might help explain why Polaris originally used a 20A relay "protected" by a 30A breaker to handle all 4 headlights ( 2 x 65W center headlights + 2 x 55W for the outer auxiliary headlights) which presented a cumulative load of 240W which is pretty much at the limit for a 20A circuit. Add in the extra power to keep the high beam shutter powered out of the way and the circuit is at the ragged edge of safety. If someone was running all 6 halogen headlights on the same circuit, they were definitely asking for trouble (LED bulbs have a much lower current draw and would have been within limits even with 6 normal strength LED bulbs).The bean-counters may have said everything was still within acceptable design constraints, but the real-world showed otherwise, so the circuit was redesigned. In my case, I switched to LED bulbs and rewired the outer auxiliary headlights to run off the Fog Light circuit, effectively giving me a separate circuit for each set of headlights, even when running the Canadian Headlights for a total of 6 headlights.


    For more info, try Googling for "automotive wire size vs current load"

  • Hahn Turbo – Installation, support and general comments

    Since I removed my hood to install extended range hood hinges, I decided to install my Hahn CoolRam
    Airbox designed for my Hahn turbo. I previously had the Hahn CAI which uses the same box with the opening for the air tube on the driver side instead of the turbo's passenger side. While installing the new airbox, I realized the support brackets had not been made properly because the holes to connect the brackets to the airbox were not drilled properly. I drilled new holes so the airbox would mount lower with the front end of the airbox resting on the bracket behind the center headlights. When I went to test close the hood with the new hinges, I went to gently push down on the same locations I have always used to make sure the latches were securely closed and I was EXTREMELY unhappy when I saw I now have 2 star-shaped cracks in my hood paint from the edges of the airbox pushing up against the hood. :(X( Since I had my Slingshot painted yellow a couple years ago, the repair is not going to be easy or cheap and I am very displeased. :( I will be going out to try and trim some of the upper front corners off the airbox for additional clearance. Hahn supplies some heavy rubber molding that fits over the edges of the airbox and seals against the hood, but I hadn't installed that since I wanted to check clearances. My earlier Hahn CAI used the same rubber molding and it pushed up against the hood making it harder to latch, so I had used some foam molding designed to seal window AC units in place, but I hadn't yet installed the foam molding.


    UPDATE - After looking at my installation some more, it looks like I may have screwed up in that I secured the rear of the airbox first. Had I mounted the brackets to the airbox and then tried the install, I probably would have realized that the front edge of the airbox needs to be below and not resting on the edge of the frame behind the center headlights. That would have placed the CoolRam airbox low enough to not contact the hood! Looks like the cracks are indeed my fault for failing to think thru what I was doing and not taking the time to find the instructions I have for my turbo install. Of course, it being my fault just makes my day suck even more! At least I have an excuse to try repainting my Slingshot at some point (although I definitely lack @Painter's skills)!
    I now think the improper location of the airbox was also why my hood didn't seem to closing and latching properly. I had thought the hood had somehow gotten repositioned during the hood hinge install, but now it seems the problem was me having installed the airbox too high and basically causing the hood to get propped up! X(


    UPDATE # 2- Starting a new thread to post what I end up doing to get the hood closing properly.

  • Low beam headlights part #

    The Center dual beam headlights and their mounts have two different versions, one used for the 2015 and some 2016 Slingshots and the newer non-Hella manufactured headlights that look more like the outer headlights. Selecting the + sign next to the parts description should let you compare your VIN to determine which model you need. If you have the Hella Center headlights, you can buy them from Amazon for a lot less. The Center headlights use H9 (halogen 60W bulbs or LED-equivalent).
    The outer Auxiliary headlights should be H3 (halogen 55W bulbs or LED-equivalent) and are always on (Low Beam). The outer headlight part numbers are different for left or right side usage.