Posts by BKL

    Since I felt the Boss Audio BT amp lacked enough power to hear my speaker setup (2 Boss Audio 4" 4-way speakers in Select Increments Versa Pods mounted above my dash and 2 RF 6.5" 3-way speakers mounted in SSVWorks Hoop Pods) at Interstate speeds, I went ahead and installed the Lanzar Marine round AM/FM/BT radio w/a 3" color display. I mounted it in a 1/8" aluminum plate I had cut with a water-jet. I also mounted a Clarion 2410 4-channel amp, but haven't yet wired it up.
    Unfortunately, the Lanzar unit had several issues I didn't like. While it seemed to have a little more power than the BA BT amp, it still lacked enough volume at Insterstate speeds. It's a PITA to switch it into Display mode, so I never set that feature up. Occasionally, the MP3 playback feature seems to go into double-speed playback and requires turning off and restarting the unit to get regular playback working again. To top everything off, the unit requires a remote to activate many features such as Random MP3 playback, Loudness, Balance/fade, etc. The remote itself is not illuminated, so it's a PITA to use at night.
    Due to the various problems I had with the Lanzar unit, I bought a Planet Audio PGR35B Gauge MECH-LESS Multimedia Player (no CD or DVD), Receiver, with Audio Streaming. It supports MP3 playback from a USB stick and has a little more power output than the Lanzar unit as well as RCA outputs for an amp. Unfortunately, it uses a 3" hole instead of the 3.5" hole the Lanzar needed, so I created a new panel using 1/4" Black PVC foam board. The PA radio does NOT have a remote I would probably lose and allows everything to be set using nested menus and the radio panel. It also seems to have a more sensitive radio receiver and picks up more stations than the Lanzr did. I placed a marine radio antenna inside the radio cubby. I also cut the panel to hold a small digital Voltmeter, my Innovate SCG-1 Boost/AFR gauge/controller (still waiting to install the turbo until my rear axle gets fixed) and a small storage space made from a short piece of 2" PVC pipe capped off with a cut-off piece of the foam PVC board. I still plan on wiring the Clarion amp soon. Here's a pic of the new setup -

    My dealer's Service Manager wants me to come in next week and they will try to diagnose the problem. Told me I may need to leave it for a few days if they have to order parts. Since I'm pretty sure what the noise is, I expect I'll have to leave it.
    Dealer is over 100 miles away. I thought about trying closer, local dealers, but they lost my trust before the Slingshot ever came out by asking for too large a deposit or saying it was non-refundable. After it was supposedly available here in Texas, the closest dealer told me on the phone they had a couple. When I drove over there, they said they were still boxed up. Haven't trusted them since.

    That "probably" won't work in this case...
    I mean, if IP address hops are taking place every 60 seconds throughout a VPN tunnel... The bot-net sitting within the US, would ultimatly get everyone's IP banned. Thus, anyone who's registered (and the site itself), would ultimately become inaccessible.


    Again, just a guessing here... but me thinks, the Chinese wording, is misdirection. :whistling:

    That was just the first thing that came to mind. I was assuming that at some point it would become apparent where the spammers were operating from.

    After having my swing-arm and other recalls fixed at the end of March, my rear axle has started clicking. I had the Slingshot up on jack-stands so I could easily get to the right-angle unit to change to Redline Shockproof Heavy Duty gear lube and while I had the engine running to warm up the right-angle unit, the clicking was really noticeable! http://vid795.photobucket.com/albums/yy239/berlinkl/Polaris%20Slingshot%20Stuff/RearAxleNoise.mp4 I emailed a copy of the video to the Slingshot Sales Manager at my dealer and asked him to forward it to the Service Dept. I was planning on installing my Hahn turbo kit late this week once school gets out and my Auto-Shop-teacher neighbor is available in case I run into any problems, but now it looks like I need to get the axle fixed. FWIW, the Redline seemed to reduce the noise from the rear-angle drive.

    @BKL - I was definitely measuring their trailer and not the dolly.


    @Publius - your experience is reflecting what I am experiencing. Kinda of a PITA at this point. Don't have the space to store a trailer either.

    I was about to respond as I had just reread your post and realized my error.
    I could probably store a 14 ft trailer in my garage, but it would really cramp things up. Size is why I like the rear wheel tow dollies. I just wished a trailer manufacturer offered one for sale. The folks who've made their own had fabbing skills and equipment I don't.

    From reading your post, it sounds like you were measuring the U-Haul car dolly for the width between the front wheels. Polaris specifically says do NOT tow the Slingshot with the rear wheel on the ground, presumably to avoid wear and tear on the rear axle and angle drive. From what I've seen, the U-haul car dolly is too high to tow the Slingshot with the rear wheel on the dolly w/o problems with the lower front wing scraping the pavement, but I haven't measured one.
    Last year, I approached a local welder who advertised he built trailers about making me a rear wheel tow dolly for my Slingshot, but never heard anything back fro him and assume he forgot about the project. I like the rear wheel tow dollies a few folks have designed and built (IIRC, at least two efforts were described on the old forum), although technically, with the Slingshot's front wheel toe-in, towing backwards could theoretically result in the front of the Slingshot swerving back and forth when towed backwards and/or increased tire wear from towing. Other members, including at least one tow truck drier, say they have towed vehicles backwards with the rear wheel(s) on a dolly without problems. Just remember to secure the front wheels so they are pointed straight forward.

    Thanks everyone for chiming in... here is the balance which I think will work best for what I'm looking for (I was able to find and purchase this config last night after staying up to 3AM scouring the web)! LINK


    @Jeff@DDMWorks, I hope I didn't hose myself on HP... But, I HAVE TO HAVE THESE! Got them in 20in.

    That wheel/tire combo looks like a sensible choice that's been selected to avoid problems with the nanny controls. And priced nicely, too.

    I've noticed that no matter the brand, the darned cover never seems to fit (properly) back into the bag it came in! My Budge #2 completely fills the passenger side storage area.

    Personally, I'd avoid the 22" wheels simply because tires that size are very expensive and seem to be more about looks than performance. At least that's the impression I got from other tire/wheel threads. Tires for 22" wheels lack the relative abundance of choices that are available for smaller wheel sizes.
    Also, based on what I've read, if you change wheel and tire sizes, try to keep the ratio of changes for the front and rear tires as close as possible to the ratios of the stock fronts and rear. Also, try to keep the overall diameter of each wheel as close as possible to the diameter of the stock tire/wheels. The nanny systems seem to work fine as long as the diameters are within 2% of the original diameters. 2-4% difference may still work, but you're getting close to having problems. Over 4% diameter difference and the nanny controls will start giving problems.

    It's completely normal. It has them all over the place. What freaks me out is the Styrofoam designs all over the block. The liquid aluminum was poured into a Styrofoam mold and it leaves the surface that looks like a cooler.

    Normal or not, it disturbs me when my engine block looks like a poorly-made Styrofoam cooler!

    I removed my Polaris front speaker pods because of the intrusion into my legroom. Before I switched to the SSV Works hoop pods w/FR R165X3 6.5" speakers with VersaPods from Select Increments holding Boss Audio P45.4C 4" speakers mounted on top of the dash, I thought about trying to make some grills using some metal screen. Expanded aluminum mesh might be easier to shape.
    Least-desired option would be to change speakers. Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate R165X3 Prime 6.5-Inch Full-Range 3-Way Coaxial Speaker (Pair): Car Electronics have relatively smooth grills.

    Well, another cruise and it shows 1 or 2 mile to empty and 1 mpg....of course I went 100 miles...lol guess I'll use trip odometer until I figure it out


    mine has been doing that for 2 years,it goes from 1.1 to today 9.9 mpg,I don't like my dealer ,who is 3 hrs away,so I'll just live with it.It doesn't affect anything else.

    Just make sure to keep an eye on your trip odometer and get more gas before you get anywhere near close to empty. I suggest refilling no lower than 1/4 tank. As I posted earlier, don't run out of gas, especially with forced induction. To be safe, refill before you hit 175 miles on the odometer. This should provide a cushion even if you only get around 20 mpg.