Posts by BKL

Attention Vendors. Please email any instruction manuals you may have for your products. They will be added to the FILEBASE tab for members to access.

    I'd think that paving material might be OK for a PARKING LOT, but here's NO WAY I'd expect it to hold up when used as a road surface, especially with heavy traffic. I assume its "sheet" failure was related to subsurface water freezing and disrupting the paving.

    Being aware of the light vehicle weight and wide tire combo, I reduce my speed when I get caught in rain. The only time I felt like my rear end was experiencing anything worrisome was on dry pavement when my rear wheel suddenly reacted as if it was hydroplaning with the rear wheel feeling totally disconnected from the road surface and sliding a little sideways. I immediately pulled over thinking maybe I had blown a tire but everything seemed OK and I was able to continue on. Still don't now what happened.

    I researched this several months ago, but forgot what I found. New search results agree with JT's comment. A good quality White Lithium Grease is safe for metal-to-metal and metal-to-plastic contact. If you're really paranoid about it, get some marine white lithium grease, but any white lithium grease should work. Spray white lithium grease, while convenient and easy to spray down into the shifter, may not perform quite as well simply because it's thinned for spraying, so it might need more grease or repeated application.

    I have a thread about this at the other site, but wanted folks to be aware of the political maneuvering about this topic. Basically, the Ethanol interest are trying to get the EPA to force widespread adoption of E15 fuel so they can sell more ethanol. Never mind the fact that E15 can damage engines not designed to handle it (most motorcycle engines, among others).
    Here's a link to the AMA Federal Action Center - Federal Look for the article starting "Hosed again..." The article has a link that makes it easy to contact your US Senators and Representative.

    If you all didn't already know, my wife and I were chosen (BLESSED) by @Painter to be his next project. He and I exchanged a few Conversations, and found out we have a few things in common. Among all things, both he and I first met our wives in a hospital!!! ...

    @Painter definitely does the best job of producing works of art when it comes to painting Slingshots. His disassembly knowledge has proven invaluable to me and I'm sure many others.

    As far as people having things in common, the Best Boss I ever had and I shared the same birthday (different years), our Wives shared the same birthday (again, different years) and we both shared the same wedding anniversary (once again, different years).
    Sadly, after he retired, he suffered from cancer that spread to his brain and spent a little over 1 year bedridden. When I visited he would talk about how much he enjoyed trips he and I had never taken, but it nevertheless made me feel good that he had positive memories during his final time.

    I realized that I'm not going to have the time to get the Blade windshield out of the garage attic, remove my MadStad windshield, reinstall the Blade for the measurements and then reinstalling the MadStad.
    I'm between 6" and 6" 1" and can say that when @cyclecog allowed me to test drive his Slingshot, I found his F4+3 windshield placed the top edge of the windshield pretty much inline with my line-of-sight and I found myself constantly shifting my head to place the top of the F4+3 in a comfortable position. EDIT - I should also add that I keep my seat one notch forward of its rear-most position so I can tilt the seat back and with my Blade windshield, I normally look above the windshield, but can slide down in my seat just enough to hide from any rain coming over the top of the windshield.
    My MadStad 13" windshield has me looking thru the windshield and I can look over it, if necessary, by lifting my head and stretching my neck. I redrilled it to mount about 1" lower during cold weather to minimize airflow under the windshield. It's actually so ow that it will hit the hood if I am not careful. I probably would have been OK if I had redrilled it so the new holes were about 3/4" higher than the original holes instead of the 1" I used.
    MadStad Windshield Sizing Info can be found here - MadStad Adjustable Windshields.
    I couldn't find similar Sizing Info for F4 Windshields, but they did show the F4+3 windshield being 3" taller and 2.5" wider than the Polaris Blade while the F4+5 is 5" taller and the same 2.5" wider. F4 also states on their site that they offer a special version of the F4+5 to fit the Bullet or Twist Dynamics tops.
    I'm sure the OP could email F4Customs for their recommended windshield for his height.

    I, too, have the DDM Works shifter. Initially, I wasn't sure if I really liked it as it seemed harder to shift and occasionally seemed reluctant to downshift from 2nd to 1st. Now, with 10K+ miles on the shifter, I've gotten much more used to it and rarely encounter a problem downshifting into 1st. I'm not sure I'd really like going back to the original long-throw shifting pattern.
    As far as differences between the two brands, I would have to agree with Flybuddy . The physics of the shift operation shouldn't really differ unless one manufacturer is using some amazing, new, reduced-friction material.

    My dealer didn't require a lift to change out my rear pinion seal. They used a jack and jack stand in the rear. It took them close to 4 hours or so since mine was only the second one they have done. They said polaris warranty only pays them close to 2 hours of work time.

    It seems I have more mileage than most of my dealer's other Slingshot owners as most of the warranty work I've had done has typically been the first time they've had to deal with the problem. Guess I'm just lucky!

    Also, @Otter,from the old site, posted the following - "FWIW, I found that the SS rear wheel bearing with the speed sensor magnet ring is the same bearing as used in most model years of the Mazda Miata (front wheel bearing). Can be had for as low as $20.00 online.

    Don't know what the other bearing is though." Be nice if folks can figure out the identifying part number(s).

    At 20K miles. dealer replaced my rear rotor saying the noise was from a warped rear rotor. Noise started back up a short time later. During my 25K mile service, the mechanic thinks new one is warped, too. Asked me if I had driven thru a puddle with a hot brake rotor, and I responded I don't ride if it's raining unless it starts raining when I'm already out and don't usually ride if rain is likely.
    At least they replaced the faulty brake sensors and I was able to drive the 100+ miles home without losing the Cruise Control. My angle drive is still leaking, but they claim they need a lift to work on it and are trying to convince the dealer to buy one.

    If you have any concerns a relay (or fuse) is not properly seated, you can try lightly flaring out (bending) the relay/fuse connectors in hopes of getting it to reseat more securely. If you try this, remember to only slightly bend the contacts.

    I felt the same, but for another reason @BKL!

    I'm in education! So I'll be looking into this... Will be asking if any HISD schools do such a thing. Hope it's not a conflict of interest or anything... We will see...

    I wouldn't expect HISD to have any internal rules against HISD employees take advantage of the Auto Shop students. After all, you're providing project material to help the students learn. If there is a policy concern, you should probably be able to use a different ISD.

    I forgot to mention that my neighbor teaches Auto Shop at a local High School, but I can't remember which one! I was talking to him a couple months ago and thinking he'd been our neighbor for about 1 years and was shocked to learn he moved in 3 yrs ago! My Wife and I stay up late every night and sleep late, so we don;t see the neighbors real often. :D

    Have you tried contacting local schools/colleges that have Auto Body programs?

    Sometimes they will do jobs for very cheap as your vehicle would be canvas for the students to learn on.

    Usually the instructors make sure you get a quality product back.[/b]

    I am ashamed to admit that I had forgotten all about using a local high school or college auto shop program. I say ashamed because my family has a history in the teaching profession and I should've remembered that. My Dad and relatives used such programs when I was growing up. The only drawback to such a route is they usually need the vehicle for an extended period of time.

    @MiM, I got a cheap paint job! I'd rate my paint job about a 3, meaning from 3 ft or more it looks OK. Closer than 3 ft and you can see the flaws. As long as people look at it from a distance or at least no too closely, people seem to think it looks nice. I've only had a few people comment on the paint. I asked around the Spring area at several different places and got estimates ranging between $1500 up to $3K. PM me if you want more info or pics of my paint job.

    If you have OCD, you're NOT going to be happy with anything less than immaculate! Save your money and get the best paint job you can afford. The Maaco $299 paint job might include a light sanding, Check here for their various paint services - Auto Painting & Collision Repair | Auto Painting Services by
    Also, you may find some painters who want to just paint the panels in place on the vehicle. This might work using a flexible coating like DIP, but I wouldn't recommend it for hard paints since the body pieces aren't permanently fastened to each other like a typical car and the vibrations of the pieces against each other may well cause problems.
    If you're doing it locally and are willing to take the body apart yourself, you should hopefully save significantly as most painters have never done a Slingshot disassembly. You should be able to save even more if you pre-sand the pieces. There are several threads on body disassembly on the old site (haven't looked here). If you have access to a pickup or large SUV, you should be able to easily carry all the parts. I went to Goodwill and bought a few used bedspreads to protect the various pieces.

    The New Thread button is right in front of the Reply button. I've hit it several times when I meant to select Reply.