Posts by Garrett Taguchi

Quote from Orangeman

Garrett,

As I understand it you are now aware if they told you this, it is in fact a lie .......

.........

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So first off, I'd like to publicly apologize to Bob (I already have a couple times over the phone). And second, apologize to the forum for posting unconfirmed info. Bob literally text me as I was pulling in to cbm to tell me that the info I had was bad. I immediately called him, and after about a 20 min discussion, I started my slingshot and drove off....... Straight to Bob's lol... I'm here now, he's Goin to update me with the latest tune.

Quote from STYLN

Keep us posted on how the tune works out!! I may be interested in driving down to have the SC dyno'd

On my way now... Will be ready tomorrow morning.. I'll keep you guys posted.

Quote from jluna317

@Garrett Taguchi they can dyno it but they won't be tuning it unless they can crack it like bob did but good luck with the dyno pulls

They cracked it a while back.. They wrote the mefi software that Bob uses... This will be a custom tune.

Install is complete.... Thank you everyone who helped me on this thread... Taking it to cbm motorsports on Tuesday to have it dyno tuned... @Bill from Hahn RaceCraft I would like to order the flat metal o ring that goes over the throttle body under the intake plenum and the hanger bolt / washers for the exhaust.

I recall reading something about bibs tune not being able to communicate with a fail safe... But I see people buying fail safe gauges... Just wondering I'd that was true...

Quote from BKL

I'd consider Hahn's Stage 2/2X system as a Stage 2 with around 8 lbs boost and the Stage 2X label meaning the system can be forced to produce more boost by changing springs i the wastegate, with the understanding that going beyond the as-delivered Stage 2 settings really needs a built motor.

I think 2x doesn't require different springs... But I get your point.. I'm gonna stick with stage 2... I've done a lot of searches regarding the 2x setup... Didn't find much, so I'm assuming everyone is having a blast on their stage 2... Should be good enough for me... For now hehe

So if the difference between 91 and 92 is scant, (I live in so Cal, no 93 here), 91 should be fine? Maybe add 9ctane booster? (does that stuff really work lol)

Quote from Bill from Hahn RaceCraft

The difference between 91 and 92 is scant, for what it's worth.
Our SpeedBoostGPS is one method of switching back and forth between 2 and 2X, but other boost controller systems can achieve the same thing...be careful if you use some other method however, and closely follow the boost level recommendations in the manual.

2 is more reliable than 2x. If reliability is a primary concern, use Stage 2. If the prospect of going to an upgraded engine (something we are about to offer, incidentally!) in the future does not deter you, Stage 2X is more fun!

Thank u.. This puts it in perspective for me.. I am in no way ready for a new engine... I'm sure 2x is lots of fun, however I hear 2 is plenty fun as well

Quote from BKL

Going beyond the vendor setup to get more HP is RISKY! You may get more power from a stock engine (for a short period of time, maybe a long period if you're lucky), but pushing more than the vendor-built boost on a STOCK engine is ASKING for trouble.

I understand what you're saying.. That's is what I'm asking.. 2x (correct me if I'm wrong) is a vendor setup, right? So I would assume that Hahn is confident in the 2x setup.. However, I'm just looking for confirmation.

Quote from Bill from Hahn RaceCraft

Ideally, no. For best durability, Stage 2 and 2X are best served by 92-94 octane. Lower octane(s) can be used in a pinch, but only at light loads (no hard boost).

Quote from Bill from Hahn RaceCraft

As promised above, here is our SpeedBoostGPS power management system. Have a click and a look!

SpeedBoostGPS

OK.. So I was browsing through the installation manual.. I saw that stage 2 required a minimum of 91 (my friend runs 91 on his stage 2). Is The 92-94 that u recommend for either 2 or 2x something that you realized after the manual was printed? Also, is what my friend mentioned about installing a valve on the hose for stage 2x something that will work to turn 2x on and off? And last question, i know boost in general is risky, but with that being said, 2 vs 2x, a huge increase in reliability?

So 91 octane is sufficient for both 2 and 2x?

Oh ok... Didn't know it was possible to run stage 2 Hahn turbo without a tune

I thought stage 2 could not be ran without a 2 bar sensor... I'm kinda confused... So stage 2 cam be ran with 1 bar, but stage 2x needs 2bar? And both need their own tune?

I have the 2 bar map sensor. But I'll wait for @Bill from Hahn RaceCraft to respond

So I'm almost done with the installation. Gonna go with the 2x setup.. Other than higher octane gas, do I need to be concerned with anything else? My friend thinks we can install some type of valve so that I can easily switch from 2 to 2x... Has anyone done anything like this? I did a search on both forums and haven't seem much info regarding the 2x setup... Is it risky?

Quote from rabtech

all you have to do is reverse two wires on the pigtail. Not sure what that one from amazon is going to help you do. Here is what you need.

Also do you have that thin oring that goes under the intake hat and connects to the throttle body?

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If you're talking about the metal oring, it was crushed during shipping

So I ordered the pig tail from Amazon, my friend gave me the part number... I'm gonna use his ecu for now, ship mine next week to Bob... The oil return line was kinked, so gonna have one made tomorrow, the metal on ring that goes inside the plenum (I think that's what it's called) of the intake was crushed, so my friend is gonna give me his... Exhaust doesn't have the hanger bolt... Other than that, I think we're good. @Bill from Hahn RaceCraft, do u sell that metal o ring by itself? And is the exhaust hanger bolt something I can pick up from home depot or ace hardware?

I'll have to wait til I get home... I took a close up of the injectors... U can make out the numbers.. If it's not clear enough, I'll take another one tonight.

Also my friend said that the injectors looked stock... Are they the right injectors? He said he thought his were siemens, but he was gonna double check his setup tonight

Quote from Bill from Hahn RaceCraft

These days, we use a direct-fit adaptor harness that makes installing the 2-bar sensor plug-n-play. On our older kits, when we first pioneered the 2-bar conversion with Bob at OBD, we included a new 3-pin plug/wiring pigtail that required cutting off the stock MAP plug and connecting the new one. That was apparently when some folks (who were in more of a hurry than they should be) didn't study the wiring instructions closely, and instead just mimicked the stock pin arrangement. Of course, this didn't work worth a damn, as the new plug had a different arrangement, with two wires transposed as compared to stock. Ran like crap, set CEL. It was hard to get these folks to find the apparent problem...and in some cases, it was even harder to get them to admit they'd done it to themselves, even after they'd finally discovered they had! Ah, the joys of tech support across the miles...
@Garrett Taguchi: do you know what type MAP connection you have? If you need an adapter harness, we could still ship one today. I'll also get those install and parts lists docs to you presently.

The injector clip you need will be on your stock injectors, you can just re-use one of those.

Thank you @rabtech for the helping hand!

I have no clue what type of map sensor I have.. I have 2016 if that helps