Yeah, but do you know how much ammo you can buy for $1300?
Just got a new g19 gen 5, tru glo tritium sights and half case of practice ammo for little more than half that.
Posts by Roy658
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I have a 15 and added a relay/fuse in the open blower position to control the added headlights. Don't know if later models have that blank relay position.
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You are correct to a certain extend but remember you are comparing apples and oranges when comparing the life of an AC switch to a DC switch.
Just an example, @KayTwo has limited electrical experience. DC switches are rated per same criteria but in terms of dc volts, current and cycles.
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@Gadgeteer They changed that to individual relays with the recall. Circuit was overheating with everything on one. Still has the same control i
line but it easy to break into the second relay. -
I read a couple of reviews from guys that had the other and changed to Alpha...said it was smoooother
@TCB I have a lot of ddm mods that I really like, so I bought the short shifter. From the start it was kind of a rough shift and 2-3 was hard. At SSITS this year I drove one with the alpha and really felt a difference, much smoother. Had a friend, @Dogs, drive it and he bought one. I tended to miss shifts with the ddm which I attributed to muscle memory but do not with the alpha. Still have the ddm in box, cheap if you're interested ! Sorry tapped the wrong quote. Also just read dave's post on pin position and that could easily have been my problem with the ddm. Never looked at pin position!
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You're probably going to need Mosfet's with low milli ohm on-resistance. If you get low on-resistance say 10 milli ohm, you will still have to dissapate 9 watts at a full load of 30 amps. Not sure that the heatsinks won't be less esthetic than the relays.
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Congratulations @Locapacow. This time next year the purchase price will seem like lunch money compared to the mods cost. But you"re really gonna have fun!
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@KayTwo, switches are rated for load and cycles, meaning as long as you stay within the load rating the switch will last for the rated number of cycles. Think home. You have at least one switch in every room that last for decades. Been in my home for over 20 years and haven"t replaced a switch. The switches I"m sending to you are rated at 3 amps load for 100,000 cycles. As long as the load connected to the switch doesn"t exceed 3 amps, you will not need a relay. For loads greater than 3 amps you will. I have relays rated at 30 amps with an integral fuse contained in the relay case. The switch only has to provide a few hundred milliamps to activate the relay and less to hold. 80mm Angel eye led"s are rated at about 270ma or about 1.6 amps for 6, and would not require a relay. I"ve had my 6 on a switch like I'm sending for almost 2 years with no problem. We will have to evaluate each load to determine if a relay is required. Remember a relay is only a magnetically controlled switch with its own amp and cycle rating. Polaris already has relay circuits for headlights. I just put a switch into the circuit to control heads through the oem fuse and relays.
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Or just wire the switches into the oem circuit. Easy to break into the polaris circuit and use existing fuse and relay.
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Short answer - yes. Long answer: I have a 30 amp fused circuit run from the battery to the engine compartment to a 40 amp relay. This relay is triggered by the OEM ignition line in the dash. This allows me to put all my added loads on a separate circuit that is disabled when I turn off the key. (I had a few instances where I forgot to turn off the LEDs resulting in a mandatory jump (not the good kind). So now when the bike is off so are all of my lights, radio, back up cam, rear view cam, rear view monitor etc. The headlights are also on a switch but all I did there was interrupt the oem circuit at the input to the HL relay at the oem fuse panel and put the switch in the circuit. I did this when the bike was still under warranty so Polaris couldn't blame a failure on the added wiring. No idea if it would have done any good as I didn't need any electrical work beyond the recall for lights. As I have all HID's the switch allows me to start the bike before energizing the HID lamps. I had an on-delay relay at first to hold HID ignition for 30 seconds after start but it proved too flaky. Also had a light sensor on the WS center post to activate the lights at dusk till the law pointed out that I would be far ahead financially to run heads all the time.
The dash switches control oem relay for both the headlights and the outside driving lights. The inside driving lights are on a separate switch and the halos are on a third switch. I wired this way after talking to a LEO who was fascinated with the bike but recommended that I keep the oem lighting, just in case someone actually became familiar with the bike as built. I run all six halos on one switch only because I like the look. Accent led's around the light nacelles are on the halo circuit.
After you plan your switch location, I can spend some time up there to help. (Did I mention I'm retired!!!) And yes there will be some disassembly required but it not difficult, just time consuming.
I'll send you a link to the chinese site from which I got most of the switches. They have a wide variety of styles with illuminated power symbols, light symbols, e flasher etc. The ones I am sending are simple chrome push button with an illuminated ring around the button. Only one has a power symbol and one has a lamp symbol. -
correct. can be wired to light with ignition on or circuit on. If you want them send me your address by email from profile.
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Check state requirement for headlights. Ticket if caught running without heads in GA and NC.
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Y'all remember -I'm retired "Wake up with nothing to do and get only half finished by bedtime"
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@ericastar76, @Roy658.....Whaaaaa?
Roy, got your first comment loud and clear. Issue is, I would need three toggle for the heads and 3 for the halos, to do what I really want. Not sure I want to use up that real estate.
Then again, "it ain't always what you want you get the most of."
you can mount beside driver in a line on center trans hump
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@'KayTwo have a few xtras left from bulk order that your welcome to no cost. No further use for the switches. Pix shows what I have. Black toggle is not waterproof. All other take a 16mm mount hole (5/8").
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BTW the 16mm pushbuttons cost about $7 rach from amazon or as little aa 2.50 direct from china. Just make sure you get latching or maintained contact.
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@KayTwo a barrel switch with that many combos and waterproof is going to cost. A more effective solution would be to add a simple on off switch to each circuit that you want to control. Then you decide whats illuminated by pushing that button or throwing that toggle.
I rebuilt my dash to incorporate a marine radio and 14 pushbutton switches. Each item that I want to control has its own switch. If I want halo's and heads - 2 buttons. Halos only 1 button. -
You know I never exceed the posted speed limit.
Those are route markers. Cherohola skyway NC 165
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@Bugeater homedepot sells an abs adhesive that I have used to build panels. Its nothing but abs in compatible solvent and when dried becomes one piece. I've glued abs stock together with it but have never tested tear strength. Once dried, you might try adding extra adhesive to both side of the joint for extra strength.
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@kev The Corbin bags measure 18 inches on the left and 18-3/4 on the right. Looks like I will have to remove the bags to tow.
