Posts by McClendons

    I used the one from Amazon ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . Fit was near perfect, you do have to take a round file to the housing and expand it slightly, but took my under a minute to do. It would probably fit without filing any, but would be very tight.


    Works well, only thing I do not like is it automatically displays backup lines, and you can't turn them off. OK for backing up, actually just a little to narrow for sling with mirrors, but looks funny when used as a rear view.

    I've had two of them, and both connected pretty easily to the door opener (Craftsman Opener,,,,). It's been over a year since I did mine,,,,,so could be off base on memory, but two things as thoughts. You mention that the you are pressing the small button 6X. Are you pressing it in quick sequence, or waiting a little in between until the LED is solid again? I might try waiting a little longer between pushes. The 2nd thing, and you probably did it but did not mention, but after you are done pushing the button 6 times, you are pressing the program button to store the settings?


    Final thought, I see Genie has two different versions listed for Intellicode. Have you tried pushing the button 5X as well as the 6X? I ran into that issue on a Genie a few years back, I am not sure why they are still producing two variants of Intellicode, but they were at the time.


    Hope above helps, best thoughts I have. Good luck

    We are not coming to the Ozarks unfortunately, we are all booked up for September and just can not make that event, sorry. If you want to send the ECM to us, we can flash it here though or you can send it straight to Bob.

    Dave< What is the cost to go from the original supercharger flash to the new one with less throttle hang? Besides the ECU,what do you need.....exhaust specs, pully size etc. Thanks

    Is the new tune "for sale" yet, or is it still in test? I have the rev hang with a supercharger and would love to calm it down. If available now, do you buy it through DDM (e.g. buy the shipping envelope etc like with the charger), or direct from Bob's tune?


    Thanks

    Question:


    The installer had to put 3 filters in to filter out the engine noise coming through the speakers. Could this be affecting the bass in any way?

    I've installed 3 J&M amps, my current 5 channel, a MX 300, and a 4 channel. Did not need a filter in any case to keep noise out......so something sounds fishy. The quality of the JL amp is one reason I love them, less noise than any others I've tried. Noise can come from a couple of places, primarily a "Ground loop" because of poor power/ground wiring and a Bad RCA cables (which tends to cause a hum). I know this is hard to swallow, but it does sound like a reinstall of you high end equipment might be best. At a minimum, checking the settings, wiring, and RCA should be done, but you will nearly need to rip the stuff out anyway. Good luck.

    I've had the JL MX 300/1 amp, and it is a very good amplifier. As Zorsmiles states though, it is HIGHLY dependent on the settings of the low pass filter, polarity (hope they have right), and gain (input sensitivity). It also has bass boost settings as well as an input voltage (which hopefully they have correct). The bad news. all settings are on the bottom behind a panel.


    The best setting is very install dependent, but typically the low pass would be set higher for a 6 inch than a 12......my gut, may be set too low and a 6 inch just can't produce in quantity (e.g 40 Hz). The settings really need to be checked. If you have it pulled, I strongly suggest you get the JL remote installed. It is about $45, but allows you to control the bass boost with a simple rotary knob. Available allot of locations, but here is what I am mentioning item_93402_JL-Audio-M-RBC-1-Water-Resistant-Bass-Knob.html.


    I can't see how the amp is mounted, but that is step 1.....pull it and look at the settings on bottom (behind panel held by screws to make waterproof).

    Speaking of hoses...I was thinking of making this upgrade but after doing my reasearch there is a set of hoses offered by DDMWORKS, its a 10 piece kit for 230.00. I also found a hose kit from slingshot only and its a 9 piece kit for 75.00.


    My question is...does anybody have any experience with both of these hose kit to be able to tell me the difference. I love DDM Works products but what makes their hoses so much better to be 160.00 more?


    SSREAPER

    The SSOnly hoses also are for 2016 or earlier, not 16.5s plus............I did not read the text on their site, so ended up with a set I could use for intended purpose. I thought the SSonly hoses were decent quality, but the DDM ones are definitely top notch.

    I also have the Madstad (Twist) Stinger, and am very happy with it. I do not notice allot of shake/vibration, but acknowledge there is some slight....of course I've only had it up to 90 or so. In truth, a pretty solid design.


    I like the Stinger as you can very easily take the two panels out in the winter, then only have the center section for almost top free cruising. Fairly well made as well. To me, the only downside is the brace bar in the cockpit, taking one of the cupholders. Got used to it pretty quickly.


    I saw the new Twist top, and it looks very nice as well. Not sure how easy to fully remove the panels, that was my only question. Don't think you'd go wrong with either. Neither looks at good as the SlingShade, but much more solid.

    Any details on what it took to build mounts. Great looks.


    If I am tracking, advise the 5 channel amp vice the 4 you mention. I have the jl audio 700/5 AND LOVE it. The 5th channel runs the amp, 2 channel for the fender speakers, and 2 channels for the inside pods


    Sent from my SM-T820 using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app

    Most mount the amps under the seats, just raise them some off the floor with spacers so that they do not sit in water. If you can raine then 1/4 inch or more you should be GTG,......make sure you keep the wiring a little elevated as well. Some mounted their amps in the storage compartment, and that worked well. Only issue is that the amps use space in the compartment, and the compartments are size constrained already (woofers like air volume). Probably the slickest install of the amps, but a little more complicated, was in the back area under the fin. That came out REALLY nice, and once you put the lower panel back on no even obvious it is there.


    For the woofer, the easiest is to get an SSV sub enclosure or similar. Highest cost, but then bolt in after a little panel removal etc. You can use the doors, but you need to stiffen them with something like MDF board. You also need to seal the enclosure (door) for best bass response. Ideally, you would need to coat the entire enclosure with dynamite or similar as well.