Posts by 3GunSteve

    ZZ performance rear exit exhaust, loved the quality and the looks could not live with the sound and fumes much too loud for my taste went back to the factory exhaust.


    I noticed the fumes as well and while I like the sound the wife isn't happy when it comes under boost and screams... Looking at ways to quiet it down w/out just putting the dual tips on as I like where it exits now.

    Roadhawg - just an update with the LC7. It does sound slightly better, but not $179 or whatever that LC7 cost me better. Speakers sound good but did before, just more clarity now. Subs under dash hit harder and distort less, but still suck compared to what I think they should sound like. Has to be a storage box sub that doesn't fully commit the whole box? I dunno I do want more bumps then I have now...

    Took the wife to lunch at Pino's as it was her grandfathers bday. Fun times, but not a fan of 20+ folks in the group means service always sucks and not really the servers fault! That said riding the sling was a blast and still figuring out if wife can handle the exhaust... it's loud over 5k rpm... The 14yr old wants me to promise him I won't change it.... hmmm... Did stop for a few pics with the snow capped mountains, Pikes Peak there in the backdrop.


    Today, I removed the "UAS Under-the-Dash" subwoofer box and added it to my list of "mods & goodies" I wouldn't do again. It was tuned and performed the way it was designed to, but only sounded good inside my garage. In fact, that's the only place I could hear it. It's just not all it's cracked up to be while you're out driving around and certainly NOT the solution if you desire earth-shattering base tones in your tunes. So, I'll find another use for the speakers and probably put the enclosure up for grabs in the marketplace. It's only my opinion, but I hope this helps anyone that was contemplating buying one of these things.

    Might be right there with you... Same boat though sounds fine in garage and then out on road when it's cranked up not as good at all. I'm using ride command head unit so pretty sure splitting the one signal 3 ways is degrading it. I'm 90% done adding this LC7 will finish this morning. I know it's not exactly in the best spot but if it works I'll find a more water friendly spot to mount. I'm assuming/hoping it's signal related and might help but this is it, next option is to mount something under passenger seat or just say screw it and give up a storage box.....


    Almost to the high for today temp wise, tomorrow warmer they say so thinking about taking it out to at least get gas this afternoon! I did get my vent mesh installed this morning and knocked out the sway bar upgrades. Can say the OEM rods were bent on both sides, must be those mountain switchbacks!


    Scorpio Alarm out, Slingshot Alarm installed. From what I can tell it's an Excalibur alarm setup to work on the slingshot. 5x the price of the Scorpio I got on clearance and after the first year will cost me $29/year for the cell service. I don't have to deal with charging those scorpio remotes weekly though and this one has GPS tracking and will alert me if it's set off no matter where I am as long as I have cell service.


    Install was as easy as pulling out the head unit. Alarm goes in behind there, GPS antenna mounts up in there along with tapping into power and then ignition interrupt. From there it's a pair of wires to 12v plug in glovebox this is used to show when you have ignition on power/resets the alert counter, also to activate valet mode. Remote RF receiver and shock sensor go in glovebox and then you have two wires running to horn/parking lights. Super easy! I'll pull the battery tender and let it go a few weeks to watch the draw on the main battery as that was the other thing I didn't like about the scorpio (power hog). The plus side with the app you can set an alert to let you know when battery voltage does drop and can check anytime via the app itself. Quick video below showing it working.


    "I just wanted to go over there and buy them all a beer, and that's what I did."

    - John "Chickie" Donohue


    Found this today, cool story and speaks to friendship and what you do for your true friends!

    Well AZ was amazing! Superstition Mountain Mystery 3 Gun is the big match in AZ in March every year, shot it last year and was glad to get back this year. I didn't see any, but the wife said she saw two slingshots while there. One 18/19 like ours with a temp tag and a newer one she thought, but dang I'd ride everyday living down there and if I had more time would of brought mine for our downtime!


    Match wise, finished 31 of 104 open shooters 92 of 371 overall. Jerry Miculek also shoots my division and finished 7th - he's on my list of folks I want to beat before they retire one day! Fun match though, only shot two videos but can check them out here if interested - https://www.facebook.com/steve…video_processed&ref=notif


    Had some fun stage props, shooting out of helicopters and off platforms out to 500 yards, they even had a mover target at 300 yards that rotated you had to time your shot travel time, fun stuff! Next up is Texas at the end of April for their Championship match. Shooting a major match during an ammo shortage may not be the smartest move, but it sure is fun as hell! Picked up a AR15 lower by KE Arms and a POF USA drop in ar15 trigger so despite the shortages companies are still supporting the matches which is awesome to see!


    Are you talking about the console by the emerg. brake? If so go to DDM and they have what you want. A thick pad that fills in the cut out around the brake lever.

    That was one of my black Friday purchases from them last year, and was really impressed with it! Haven't had a long ride yet but my arm is on that area all the time so should be nice and looks nice too!

    Thanks for that. I suspect, after looking at Slingmods website, that there is a harness that connects the Ride Command to the amp that I hadn't seen before, didn't come with the amp, and costs 69.00 if I want it.

    That's pretty much what mine is, just comes from a guy on FB. Unplug the plug from factory amp, ride command signal goes to one plug on his cable, other plug of his cable back into amp, then you have two sets of RCA outputs and pre-amp wire that will turn amp on with radio. Instead of using RCA and party based on my confusion thinking there was more than one signal coming out of the ride command, I had him make me this version that I then soldered up to the amps hi-input plugs on my amp.


    Question for you - on your under sub box, did you get all the movement out of it? I could of went tighter but dang thought I was going to break that bracket that holds it so maybe went two ugga uggas and could of went 3-4 so has a tiny amount of movement but still way secure I think! lol

    BD - 9 consecutive posts in a row - gotta be a forum record - you have just about worn dissent completely out - I applaud your persistence


    I try to stay out of this thread... left a few political groups on FB too as one day I'm going to say something that gets me in trouble. It's nice to see at least BD is consistent and still waiting for 2.0 I guess. I'm still figuring out how to thrive under this administration, but I'll get it. Won't be as good as the past 4 years, but figured it out in the prior 8 and bet I can suffer through 4 more!

    Roadhawg Your on the right track with that line converter. As I understand it the ride command has one signal that comes out of it, so you can use that line converter to take that signal and split it off then Y for subs etc... That is probably the cheapest way and should work the same as the $100 cable I got that goes between ride command and the factory amp. The guy normally makes that cable with two RCA outputs (still one signal from ride command) - I had him wire me one with three sets of hi-ouput wires for the amp I went with. Mine all works, only issue I have is a little static when no audio is playing (might be there when playing but I don't hear it!) and think some ferite rings might solve that next time i have seat out. The only benefit to using this cable was keeping the factory tweeters when I added the 6.5" speaker to the rest of that pod - waste of money as those tweeters suck.


    I can't find the link to the Amazon converter I had found, but doing it again I would totally go that route. Eventually one day someone is going to make a head unit that works with ride command data and have a corner on the slingshot audio market - I hope!


    *edit* - this is the one I was looking at that would of saved me $100, could of just split off this RCA output etc... https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI…-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/