Posts by TravAZ

Here was the record at some point, and may actually still be because not many people are taking them to the drag strip and many tracks wont allow them to run.

Stock Motor
Alpha Turbo Kit
Flex Fuel
Boost probably around 12-14lbs (don't remember honestly)
Auto Swap
MT Drag Radial

Too bad that beautiful Subaru noise drowned out the Slingshot bad. He went 11.2 in the video with big front wheels and fenders.

Not sure if anybody has gone into the 10s, but a close to 400hp auto Slingshot with a drag radial should...

Both autos? If not, this is a sad day for you and your Slingshot. ha

Can you tell exactly where? Maybe some of the hotside turbo bolts are really loose and/or missing. That happens on some peoples machine. ha

Your assumption is very good with cable driven throttle applications. When you go to a fly by wire throttle setup and loop everything through the ECM, the problems could be much more complex. Pedal position and throttle body position don't run 1-1 through the ECM. Bob's software shows you all of this. It is pretty interesting.

Luckily checking fuel pressure is super easy, so it may not hurt to check even though it have been VERY rare for someone to have a fuel pump or filter issue. The stock fuel rail has a schrader valve and loaner fuel pressure tools are at most auto parts stores. Screw the tool into the valve and see what you get. It should be around 45-50psi. When the problem arises and fuel pressure is consistent, you know that isn't the issue.

Quote from Br4hm4

Since I switched to the turbo, the cat has been removed. Header seems good...Looks like I am going to need a turbo rebuild in due time as well. But the odd thing is...I can't figure out what in the muffler itself would be disintegrating.

I highly doubt you need to rebuild the turbo. It is incredibly rare to have to do so with our type of mileage and abuse. Turbos get blames a lot, but they are usually not the issue. If you are really concerned, take off the cold side charge pipe and wiggle away at the blade/shaft. It needs to feel like there is a lot of play before you need to rebuild. It should almost feel like the blades will hit the housing because of play if it is bad.

I have seen other side exhausts internally fail. They take A LOT of heat up there in a turbo setup. Depending on the muffler, the internal baffles and or packing could have failed.

Quote from ericastar76

I’m trying to love my new Nitto rear wheel... there’s just not enough grip for the HP when I needed it most. Sure it’s quite... but I ran it really hard up in Maggie and found myself fishtailing quite a bit (even some of my vids captured it). For local riding (non aggressive), it’s a great performer (even handled really well in the rain). But for the twists, I may just have to buy another Proxes 888 315/30/20 and mount it before riding. Not worth loosing it to save a few bucks.

*I get about 2.5K miles out of one (at $550 a tire)!

Better order a couple now if you can find them. The R888 is disco and they are moving to the R888r. I bought 2 of the 305/35/18 a few months ago because I knew they were going away and wanted a spare track tire.

Don't trust the websites either. I ordered a R888 in 335/30/18 and they just shipped me an R888r even though it was supposed to be a R888. It was a mess....

Very awesome tires though! For dry/warm driving, it is hard to find anything better for the Slingshot. Only other nice tires, they actually have good sizing for the Slingshot. I should say did....

Highly doubt the injectors are already having issues. Luckily for you, a ton of people like myself have extra stock ones that you can easily swap out.

Most of these odd issues are vacuum leaks and/or electrical issues. I would lean towards something electrical. Maybe something in the fly by wire system...? Dealer or someone with Bob's software can plug in and see if the pedal position sensor and throttle body are still working in harmony.

First step, put some gas in it and make sure your fuel indicator is actually correct.

Quote from BKL

I was still figuring out how the widening would affect the wheel. I had been thinking they cut the wheel in the middle, but the offset will be affected no matter which side they attach the new material to. The set of Base wheels I bought are in a color my Wife likes and had a decent amount of tread left on them.I'll check out ForgeStar. Looks like the F14 is the closest match to the Base wheels. Is that what you picked?
While I've got your attention, are there any significant advantages to the Semi-, Deep- or Super Deep-Concave wheels? The Semi-Concave would be limited to 18x10.5 for the correct offset, but the Deep and SuperDeep-Concave come in a variety of offset and width choices.
Finally, based on your experience, do you feel a particular finish is closest to the color of the Base wheels?

Yes, I purchased the Forgestar F14. There is a grey option for this wheel, but it isn't a good/perfect match to the stock base wheels. Because this is primarily my track setup, I simple rattle canned the wheel to a close color and called it good. If I was doing it for my primary wheels, I would have the wheel company or local person powder coat it the matching stock base wheel color. The base wheels have 8 split spokes, whereas the F14 (thus the 14) has 7 split spokes. Most people don't really notice the difference...


There are no real performance advantages specific to each concave type. To go wide 11inch or larger, you need to choose deep concave or super deep concave. It is more about how wide you want to go with the wheel and how you want it to look. Mine is a deep concave.
http://www.forgestar.com/wheel…ged-monoblock-series/f14/

Quote from Andy Hatch

Just to make one correction to what TravAZ said about widening the wheel, when I did just what he listed using the same size spacer on TSW wheels it was not necessary to use longer studs. I am glad that he has such vast knowledge of our slings and is always willing to share it. Besides, we couldn't stand him if he was perfect.

I apologize if the post was somewhat confusing. It depends what type of spacer/adapter you use. It would be nuts to use the below type of spacer and space your wheel out any considerable distance. You are taking away too many threads on the studs and are just opening up a can of potential issues. To run this type, you would want to press in new longer studs to counter the spacing distance.

The below option is fine and doesn't require new studs, as they are the adapter type.

Quote from BKL

I currently have a Nitto 555 G2 315/35R17 on a Mustang wheel on the rear of my Slingshot and it seems to be lasting OK so far. I bought an Achilles Sport 275/35R18 as a backup spare. After reading about and pricing the Achilles Sport 2 305/30R18, I bought a set of Base wheels with the intent of having the rear wheel widened about 1-1.5", but now, the 305 seems to be in short supply, so I haven't widened the rear wheel. I'm sure more tires will be coming at some point, so I'll probably proceed with my plan at some point.

Have fun with widening a wheel. I thought this would be the ticket too, until I really understood what needed to happen for it to work correctly. I just ended up buying a Forgestar 18X12 rear rim that somewhat matches the fronts and it was less hassle and money. Here is why widening a wheel is not a good solution for a rear wheel of a reverse trike...

1. Stock wheels are not that great of quality to be widening
2. When they widen the wheel, they can only widen the inside portion/barrel, which means that your offset gets all out of wack
3. If you widen a wheel by one inch, now you have added 25mm of offset to the wheel, giving you a 70mm offset rim
4. This means you now have to use spacers to push it back left (drivers side) close to the 45mm stock offset
5. Spacing it back that far requires longer wheels studs or wheel adapters
6. $400 later, you could have just bought a quality wheel in 18x12 or 20x12 in a 45 offset

If anyone really wants to run a 305 setup on the stock base model setup, it is possible. There are tires like the Nitto NT05R drag radial that come in 305/45/18 and are recommended on a 9.5 inch rear wheel. When you do this rear setup, you need to make sure your fronts are taller too so that the rolling diameter difference stays similar to stock. You would want to run 235/50/17 fronts. This is a good setup for someone looking for good performance and higher sidewalls for comfort. Nitto Neo Gen for the fronts and a Nitto NT555R for the rear. Just don't expect good cold or wet traction from the rear drag radial. I am sure dry traction would be really good though!

One thing to always check if your Slingshot is acting weird is the vacuum cap underneath the throttle body on the intake manifold. There is a nipple that has a cap on it and it sometimes will work its way loose. Usually on boosted setups, but I have seen this happen on a NA setup too.

If you see a nipple with no cap, you have a problem. On the below picture, the left side of my far bottom right blue hose is going to where that nipple is on the stock Slingshot. It is capped when stock.

Doubt this is the issue, but it is a quick thing to check and to zip tie so it doesn't fall off at a later time.

Is it the first time it has ever done this? Is it running good during all other conditions?


Sounds like the typical rev drop you get during certain driving conditions to me...

Every Slingshot will do 130mph. You just need to rev it out in 4th gear.

This is as bad as a "what brand/weight oil is the best?" thread.... ha.

Some food for thought...

- Kendas are most diffeniently a cheap entry level tire that are placed on the Slingshot because they were willing to private label and won the contract.

- It isn't very helpful to talk about how much better your name brand tire is than the Kenda. Your Nitto, BFG, Toyo, etc. will all be better. It doesn't necessarily mean it is better because of the tread pattern. There are a lot more variables.

- You have a 1% chance of getting a tire warranty claim to go through on a Slingshot. Reasons already posted above.

- Don't get caught up too much about the tire "charts/rankings" that manufactures post on their site. Focus more on customer reviews that can be found at TireRack, DiscountTire, Amazon, TireCrawler, etc.

- Slingshots always steer to one side when the rear tires spins. It isn't from the tire tread pattern, it is likely from being a belt drive on one side.

- Not one tire is going to be the best for everyone. People have very different goals with tires and this is why I have a dedicated track setup. My street setup and track setup are picked out to do different things. You can expect a really sticky tire to last long, or a all season tire to have the best dry grip, etc., etc.

With all that has been said, I still see 0 benefits putting an asymmetrical tire on the rear of the Slingshot over a directional tire if all things are the same.

The replacement for displacement trend is gaining momentum. Not sure how to feel about this...

BUT, if you can have decent power in a gas full size truck and get 25mpg, I am all for it!

Quote from dangerdarrell

Our vehicle is plastic, not the radiator. I have NEVER had an issue with a stainless worm clamp in 50 years of doing my own engine building and repairs.

You apparently haven't owned a Prius. Worm clamps are killing those little turds daily apparently. ha

I believe the biggest difference in recent years is how much publicity these tragic event are getting.

1. We as normal citizens hear about them more frequently, as every instance is covered and nothing that pertains to this issue falls through the cracks by the media. So, they seem much more common, bt how much are they? Somebody hit me with the facts.

2. These troubled people desire attention. Sadly, nothing in today's standard gets you more attention then this type of terrible act.


A lot of people point to violence in movies, shows and video games as part of the issue. From my perspective, this has changed very little over the last 20 years. I don't agree that these factors are leading to more of these events. There has been violence in movies, comics, books for a long time!


There is likely no simple fix (IE: no guns, arm all teachers, ban violent video games, etc., etc.) and whoever pushes for just one agenda isn't thinking about this clear enough.

This is not very good advice because the Prius radiator he is referring to isn't constructed like the Slingshot one.

He states...

Installing the wrong aftermarket hose clamp can cost you the price of a new radiator.

For years, I've replaced the OEM radiator hose clamps on all of my cars with worm drive stainless steel ones.

No more! With plastic radiator necks, I only use the OEM or OER spring tensioned "Constant Tension Clamps."

The Slingshot radiator does't use plastic end tanks or necks. So, the advice doesn't apply.

Worm clamps are much better than the factory tension clamps. They are also pretty affordable compared to other options. The only downside is that they can cut into hoses slightly when they are over-tightened. Even when they look a little cut up, I have never had one leak on me.

Worm clamp away people!

Did you really just link info to a Prius forum!?! I am dying.... ha

You are probably wanting to invest into a good turbo blanket if it is a V-band setup.

Looking good!