I sent an email this afternoon to PRP and just got a response back from the sales mgr a few minutes ago that they were NOT developing a SS harness bar for the hoops.
Posts by Flybuddy
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And if you want to raise the connect point at the top you can buy the bar that Bert's sells. I will stick with mine and be happy with it.
Does Berts still sell this (not on their site), if so, anyone know the price? Been waiting on PRP to come out with their seatbelt hoop brackets but that doesn't seem to be forthcoming.
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Flybuddy
I am by no means an expert but I think we need to take weight into consideration. The tires are made for much heavier
cars. We have very little weight at the back wheel so it may be a big factor. I also treat the SS like a bike if it is raining I avoid riding.Agree with you, it's a matter of figuring out the right pressure as we're running only about half of max pressure. Lower pressure generally makes sense when center wear is excessive. I'm concerned that it might be high speed egging on a soft tire. It might be that if we stiffen it up with more pressure it may be less prone to flexing. I'm surely no expert either. We DO know that running 32 is not good. I'm rolling the dice with you on 28 (4, 7s!) and may increase for known wet conditions. If the wear doesn't improve we can always try higher on the next tire.
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Flybuddy - you will love those tires I have been running for a while. Great on the track and te street. Bit of warning watch the pressure in the rear you will have to drop lower than recommended. I was running at 30lbs cold and hot they stayed around 32 (recommended) But the tire wore in the center only not evenly. My guess was over inflation. Just ordered a new rear and plan to drop down to 28lbs.
Be SafeI went ahead and lowered the pressure today. While doing so I checked the sidewall for info. It's a 50 psi tire that we're already running underinflated. The sidewalls are simply 2 plys of polyester and the tire is relatively soft. On the Can Am Spyders we all had an issue with the stock Kendas having excess wear in the middle of the rear tire regardless of high or low tire pressure. Video showed that the center of the tire tended to egg out at higher speeds.
Another consideration is how tire pressure affects hydroplaning. The quote below is from the NHTSA.gov website:"Skidding and/or loss of control from hydroplaning
The conditions that influence hydroplaning include speed, tire design,tread depth, water depth on the road, load on the tires, and inflation pressure. At low speeds (less than about 50 mph), if your tires are under-inflated, youactually have more tire touching the road. However, hydroplaning does notoccur very often at speeds below 50 mph, unless there is deep water (usuallystanding water) on the road. As you get to about 55 mph and the water pressuregoing under the tire increases, an under-inflated tire has less pressure init pushing down on the road and you have less tire-to-road contact than aproperly inflated tire as the center portion of the tread gets lifted outof contact with the road. As speed increases to 70 mph and above and waterdepth increases due to a severe local storm with poor drainage, the under-inflatedtire could lose 40 percent of the tire-to-road contact area compared to aproperly inflated tire. The higher the speed (above 50 mph) and the moreunder-inflated the tire is, then the lower the tire-to-road contact and thehigher is the chance of hydroplaning.
Tread depth has a substantial impact on the probability of hydroplaning. Ifyou make a simplifying assumption that the water depth exceeds the capabilityof the tread design to remove water (which most likely would occur with veryworn tires), then an approximation of the speed at which hydroplaning canoccur can be estimated by the following formula:
Hydroplaning speed� = 10.35 x inflation pressure [25]
Under this assumption of water depth exceeding the capability of the treaddesign to remove water:
This is presented to show the relative effect of inflation pressure onthe possibility of hydroplaning." -
Thx guys for the benefit of your experience...I will lower the pressure
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Just put these on today...BFG Sport Comp 2slingshotinfo.com/wcf/index.php?attachment/3073/slingshotinfo.com/wcf/index.php?attachment/3074/
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I remember reading a lot of very positive reviews on the short shifter and a couple of SS buddies swore by it. After I got mine installed I felt like Rab and didn't like it. Might have been that I had high expectations. Anyway, I left it in there and either it got smoother or I got used to it but now I would never go back to stock--I like it.
As far as OP question...
Alpha CAI
Alpha Variable Exhaust
1320 Header
This is quality stuff for about $1600. You'll feel the difference in power, run smoother, idle better. -
Thx for the info
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Is it feasible to just drill the hole and tap it without disassembling (have to vacuum out the shavings)?
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Greased mine again today (can blame this thread for reminding me:) ). Anyhow, for anyone that hasn't done it, here's a pic looking down from cup holder hole and another with my ground down connector attached.
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They are good! I bought one of the first adjustable screens from them and the acrylic had some minor distortions (unfortunately right in the driver view). I called and they immediately sent a new one to me and I didn't even have to ship the old one back.
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I swapped the stock tires for Goodyear eagle f1s. Better in the wet. Not perfect, but better. If you get fluttering at speed, it is the suspension, not tires - probably.
Ponding water, I park.
Agree with your assessment..I just ordered BFG Sport Comp 2s (summer compound not the A/S). Better in wet than stock.
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Don't mean to "needle" you about this. You're a better man than I, as I could never get the needle to work without shooting 90% of the grease all over the place. I just ground the crap out my grease gun regular nozzle end until I could get it to fit on there and greased from the top down via the cup holes.
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Kenny--nice looking tire!
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I can honestly say I have never had the back end kick out on me - not even on the track, I wonder if the wing and spliter I am using are adding some needed downforce? Or is I am I just lucky - If so this is the only time I have ever been lucky at anything
I'll take all the luck I can get (as long as it's not bad luck)
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Deepest sympathies, will keep them in our thoughts and prayers
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I always trust my ass. No other ass matters!
I dunno, I've got a friend that's a real ass but I don't trust him.
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Check out the reviews below on our OEM tires. Chart is based on 50 reviews and 400,000+ miles. Only 47% given for wet conditions. If our Kendas stink on normal cars they can't be good (wet) on our compromised design. The reviews I see on good tires are in the low 90s for wet.
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Any suggestions as to what we can do to the Slingshot to improve resistance to hydroplaning? Different tires, different sized tires, weighing the 3 wheels and balancing the weight better? Granted, the rear is light BUT there's only one wheel back there carrying the load instead of two. I'm actually a bit heavier back there due to Corbin Bags, stuff in them and a tow bar. The SS is driven in the rain all the time (think of all the owners driving to Maggie Valley next month), why do some depart and others don't? Yup, driving technique, slowing down or not driving are obvious answers. I'm driving to Maggie Valley again this year and I've got a feeling I'm going to be sweating in that rainsuit even if it's cold.