Posts by wokka

What color scheme are you going with? They give you a decent trade-in on your other?

Per Polaris, they are part SCR-HXBH-M4X0.7X30 10.9 ZPB so looks like m4 x 30? https://www.polarispartsmonste…s-49slingshotsound14sling

From the pic, looks like they are a security hex or torx screw (has that small raised bit in the center), so you need a hex that has a hole in it. Looks like this if you don't have one : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Titan…-Pack-of-13-/332718327933

Of course, they make the same for torx.

If you knew all of this, sorry, trying to educate in case people don't know.

WHAATT?? Bikers mis-behaving? Say it ain't so!

With any crowd, there are rowdy folks. With a big crowd, just comes more of it.

I so want one of these, but it comes at the cost of an aftermarket ECU, not quite ready for that...

Happy bday Kyle, hope you were doing something fun and not installing stuff for work

I have always cranked my vehicles to move them into the shop, and then let them sit for 10+ minutes to let all of the oil drain back down into the oil pan. Never liked that the oil change places didn't let the vehicles sit and try to get as much of the oil out as possible, just a pet peeve of mine.

With full synthetic oils, I've always changed my vehicles at 10k. My truck asks for every 7500 per the manual. Our nissan cars say 10k anyway.

I plan to do my SS at 5k, per the manual, with the full synthetic. Mainly because of the planned turbo install, and I'm not exactly easy on the motor, lead foot and all in it.

I've always felt that the service stations pushing the 3k oil changes were at their best interest and not necessarily ours and it being a bit of a waste.

I may do that analysis on the oil. Our cars have 56k and 85k respectively and my truck has 55k miles on them. Would be curious how they are holding up.

Thoughts and best wishes are flowing!

I think the newer fobs have a much shorter range. I had the fob laying on a front tire while I was testing things with the stereo and it wouldn't energize from there.

While I think it could be smaller, it's not as big as my Nissan fob, my Ford truck key or the Polaris default key.

Agreed, but I put it on there in case they did use it.

I think I'm going to hide my key somewhere for the storage bins and glove box, just in case I don't have my keys on me that has the fob (along with the key for the storage/glove box)

Thanks!

I recently installed a Digital Guard Dawg Keyless Ignition Kit and love it. Short story, it has a bypass code and if you don't know about it, you need to change it.

Long story : In discussions about the old key and the cover for it, someone mentioned that you didn't need to keep the old key or use their optional harness to keep the key as well, since the Ignition kit has an Emergency Bypass Code to energize the unit and start the SS without having the fob.

I was told that it was on page 16 of my manual. Looking at my manual, and the one they have for download, I don't have a page 16, goes up to 9...

Looking at all of their manuals for download, none go up to 16.

So, I asked my fellow forum members to send me a copy and SlingLow sent me his, showing his default code along with how to use it and how to change it.

This turned out to be my default code as well, I was able to energize the car for starting, as well as change my code.

So, check your manual, change your code. I suspect that there are only a few default codes shipped (1 - 9 only, two digits, 81 combinations, and higher code numbers are probably not used for default, my guess on this)

One is square and the other is oblong I thought, had 4 connectors side by side. The picture I showed is square and looks similar to his in blue.

This is a horrible image, but didn't realize it was this blurry until I was done for the day and had the SS off of the jacks.

Jack it up and get under it, look on either side of the transmission

Now, if you find it there wedged, you'll have to take the transmission tunnel loose I bet, I didn't bother on mine since I had already wired my system.

I have friends that have a portable hot-tub for camping, it's big, holds about 20 people, they use firewood to heat the water. Takes a few hours to setup and take down.

Yeah, I have some odd friends, but they are serious about the tubbing.

Putting a heat shield in is on my to-do list, just been dreading taking it all apart.

I've been in my dash about 30 times working on my radio setup and adding stuff, it's probably the area of the SS that I'm most familiar with

In fact, I need to spend some time organizing and cleaning up my wiring behind the radio. I have two cameras, a video switcher, USB cables, bluetooth transmitter and radar detector that have cabling running through there.

This is the same one you were showing me I think, the other one I didn't get a good image of, it's blurry, but that is from taken from below when I was working on my exhaust.

Yeah, I think that's the harness for the camera, keep digging around, there is the wide harness for the power

look around your frame

Like a wire going down the side of the transmission tunnel between it and the frame

You don't have to take the entire dash apart, just take the cubby out. here is a break down of the parts : https://www.polarispartsmonste…body-dash-asm-all-options

1 and 2 are the visor centers, they snap in, so just pry those up with the hood open, that will show the two screws at the top of trim bezel. with that off, the liner-cubby can be pulled out, it may be snug, so just work it back and forth.

with that out, you can see the back of the motor and the top of the transmission, and your radio wiring will be down in there somewhere. Mine were wedged behind the frame and I couldn't see it from the top. They are still there, I couldn't find them and wired elsewhere, but I'm not using a stock radio.

Let me know if you have other questions