Posts by FFShawn

    As i said I would much rather have yours since it is dead gorgeous but Hahn offers a Port Fueler EMS that can be attached to his intake which has caught my eye for when i boost my sling and since you are unfortunately getting out of the slingshot business the same won't be available from you.
    A more knowledgeable person than me could probably modify your intake to work with a port fueler but due to my lack of knowledge I need an almost turn key solution.

    I don't have any more intake manifolds to sell right now so I'm surely not trying to sell you anything. Mitch took the last complete manifold I had. I have 4 runner sections machined and fabbed but no plenums at the moment. There's absolutely zero need for a second bank of injectors unless you're trying to make 4 digit power. ID1300X's in the standard injector location can support 600-700whp on E85 or 1,000whp on race gas C16/Q16. Your standard turbo sling is making 400whp on 630cc injectors. Maybe, and that's a MAYBE, there's one or two people with 1,000cc injectors and I'm 99% sure no one with anything bigger than that. The twin turbo Sling I posted a picture of on the previous page is probably the most capable turbo setup on a Slingshot that's still on the 4cyl engine. It's good for 800whp with a single set of 1300X's on E85, my billet fuel rail and intake manifold.

    On a direct injection engine port fuel is something. On a engine that already has traditional fuel injection, a stupid offering unless you're making serious power. A 1200-1500whp inline 6, IE Supra/Skyline. Ok, they'll use a 12 injector setup. On a Slingshot, I can guarantee that will 100% never be needed. An intake manifold for that matter isn't needed either unless you're over 500whp, or just want the bling.


    Shows the quality of your work. Only you would be ashamed of something as awesome looking as that. I would be proud to have that on my sling.

    I spend countless amounts of time and effort in programming blending finishing tool paths, add some expensive mills from tool companies on peak of their game as well, to achieve the surface finish I accept. I'm always pushing, I can never be good enough. I've scrapped $500 billets before because finishing wasn't to an acceptable standard to me, and I refuse to have any post process finishing/polishing where you can tell it was altered because machining wasn't on par. If it isn't perfect, it doesn't leave my door. For some reason powder on the plenum top and bottom flats doesn't flatten properly if it isn't roughed up with an orbital. Untouched, raw machine finish is where it's at =D

    Glad it arrived safely, I'm ashamed the plenum looks as terrible as it does after cleaning it up for powder! Can't wait to see it's final form and what it allows with your setup

    Oh man decisions........ I like the looks of the FFactory but the Hahns one can be used to improve fueling if i ever go booted in the future............

    What do you think the Hahn manifold offers in regards to fueling that this one does not? Not another intake manifold on the market that will touch gains/flow of mine

    It's not on the forums so it must not be true! I've built 4 single turbo Slings and the one Twin setup, each had an intake manifold. Outside of those I have built 20 intake manifolds, have 4 still here at the shop, the rest are all sold and out and about somewhere on Slingshots. I am no longer building any production Slingshot products except our roof system. Still do custom installs/setups as I care to take on in house only, and those mainly colabs with Bullet/Bob on his quad kits at his request. Slingshot parts have always been less than 10% of my business. Only because good old Unified Performace/Richard Kwan ripped me off of $50,000 worth of product did I even get in the market in the first place. I've recouped my loss, and market is no longer worth my time honestly, so I'm back to my core business, 1000whp+ BMW's and parts to support them as I've been doing for over 10 years now.


    That's a little deeper than I wanted to go but I like this reply =) To keep it simple, just don't take boost pressure for boost pressure is all I was really trying to get at when comparing the different setups. Happy boosting for all, fireworks and all!!

    I really like your expertise in these matters. You make a great product that I would have liked to purchase if your price point wasn't so far over the top. We are now 2 years into the development of Slingshot power and you are just starting to let us know how we are so wrong in our thinking. I look forward to your release of a reliable power option that would be affordable to most of us on the forum to back up your words.I was not being sarcastic when I said you have a very good product line.
    I also would not have posted this if I thought you would not understand.

    My Sling kit is as cheap as I will make it, there's no money in it honestly, I just like supplying quality stuff for those that want it. My typical turbo setups I build are 12-20k, hardware alone, outside of the Sling kit,12k is the least I've ever charged for a full setup and it includes fueling and tuning. I've cut it down as much as I can. The turbo Alpha and Hahn use retail is around $850.00, the Borg Warner EFR I use is $2800 retail. As I mentioned above, turbo tech, this is why the EFR I use which is over 20% bigger out spools the Alpha setup by over 500rpm. There's a reason my kit costs what it costs, it's all in materials. There's less than $500 profit in the kit in itself after all the pieces are brought together. The only place I make money on the kit is in the installation, extra's/add-ons, and the customization of each setup that I'm known for. If you haven't seen my setup in person next to any of the others, look closely at everything when you do come across one, even short of all the billet pieces I use for it. My motto has always been "It's all in the details," it truly is. I'm a perfectionist to the 100th degree, you get more than you pay for with my setup and I refuse to dumb it down or use cheaper components just to hit a price point. I don't expect to compete with any of the other FI suppliers, for those that want and can afford the best in a turbo setup, I'm here =)


    Shawn, Please educate us!! Where can we get CFM gauges to monitor how much air is being shoved down the throats of our shitty motors!

    It won't be on a gauge, it will be general info from the specific turbo or blower. Look up the model specifically and the manufacturer will list what CFM that unit flows. It's all based off the size of the compressor wheel. I'm just saying to not take 9psi as 9psi across the board for all setups available for the Slingshot. For example, 9psi on my EFR kit is flowing over 20% more volume than an Alpha kit at 9psi. Lots of things play a roll, mainly how strong the torque spike is that takes out most motors. The harder and sooner boost comes on will typically cause more harm to weak components as the engine and vehicle has less momentum. Once everything is moving in unison you can lay into the power and keep motors happy, even weak motors. Boost controller tech has added many user adjusted variables as years pass to help smooth out the onset of boost to make everything happy and smooth.

    Most people think lag is associated to a bigger turbo, yes true to an extent however flow efficiency plays an important role in this as well. A larger turbo can out spool a smaller more spikey variant just using proper flow dynamics. Modern turbo tech also helps with this by incorporating different ball bearing designs, lightweight materials IE billet comp wheels, Ti exhaust wheels, v-band inlets etc.

    It's a complicated process, just because you can bolt an FI setup together and everything connects doesn't mean you've covered essential pieces of the process.

    You guys talk about psi like that's what matters. Noobs, and I'm sorry to call you out particularly but it's said here way to often. PSI doesn't mean shit, turbo's and blowers flow CFM. 9psi on an Alpha or Hahn kit 9psi on a blower- Alpha or DDM, 9psi on my EFR kit, all very different volume in CFM. Boost is a terrible reference of what one should run max to not blow your motor. And we wonder why people have blown motors, lack of education!

    Again sorry to call you out on it but I know you can take it, some of you need forced induction 101 like whoa!!!!


    What I can tell you is this. Get you some type of device that will drop boost as soon as the AFR values go lean. And if you get an engine from DDM it will be as tough as LAVA soap. I have witnessed my engine make 2 full days of rev limiter hitting 17 to 18 PSI of boost dyno pulls over and over.

    A blower can't overboost as it's a mechanical drive (pulley size) that sets boost, on the flip side you also can't have any type of boost cut with a blower. Unless you were to add an electronic solenoid using a standalone ECU, controlling the BOV/DV would be the only way to do so. I hate blowers with a passion, if the car didn't come with a blower, it shouldn't have one. I've seen too many Vipers and Vette's through my shop days yanking off pinned dampeners and blasting front crank bearings because of belt tension. The Ecotec is junk to start and surely not a motor I would consider pulling on the crank to spin a blower. And a centrifugal blower at that. If you aren't hitting redline you aren't getting full boost from that blower, who does regular pulls to redline? Surely not something easily useable on the street @Dave@DDMWorks No idea how you guys have had luck with blowers on these engines and no dampener or crank issues, Props to you. I understand a turbo setup takes a little more to install but they are better in every aspect over a centrifugal blower, twin screw to be argued. Absolutely nothing to gain with this blower setup over a basic turbo setup that has low end torque and power where it's actually useable without reving to the moon just to find a few lbs of boost. Boost cut and all those things are easily applicable as well with a turbo setup. Anyways just my 2 cents, very shitty situation no doubt. Just as you start to have fun it comes halting to an end, welcome to tuning cars!


    Water/meth will gain nothing unless you tune for it, it only helps with detonation and cools IAT, on the negative you're putting water on a fire so all gains negate the positives again unless you tune for it, which is not wise as these systems are 100% unreliable. They are a great buffer when working properly. The methanol shrinks o-rings and fatigues the quick clip fittings that all of these systems use, also tears up the seals and impeller inside the pumps. Once you replace fittings by the month, and pumps by the year, you'll start to understand. Fitting issues can be remedied by changing out everything to brass, however the pumps will still have issues. A great idea, and widely used now, however a time bomb none the less. I worked with Snow back in 2004 on their first kit ever made that was fitted around the VW/Audi 1.8T. I used it for awhile on my 1.8T but ended up ditching it as I was starting to rely too much on it for high boost and knew it was going to lead to destruction.

    Proceed with caution!


    Bob - Bullet Speed - did a main part of those shown chain conversions, I modified/finished the one on Richards (UP) and the red one for Wayne's, different uprights than Bob's and I also incorporated the ebrake cylinder and reservoir into it. Contact Bob about it, I'm not sure if he'd want to make another one or not, I can supply any of the billet pieces I did. The main extension and modifying the belt drive hub would have to be Bob's.

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