Posts by Gnx1234

Yeah I even rode my busa in 30 degree weather at night ,while I’d have to stop every 30mins for coffee lol I didn’t make a habit of it but yeah cold weather is turbo weather for those of us who also use them on our daily drivers and toys..so I’d never put it away heck I’d get snow tires and drive it in the snow if I could lol..anyway to each their own and enjoy your winter guys

Thks ...
Would you guys use a GM rear end to keep the abs and stability control ?

If the SS HAS THE FACTORY upgraded shocks .are they useable for the rear shocks ? Then only needing one more..

Also being crippled I’ve thought of different ways to bring my wheelchair with me..

One would be a tow hitch ? And a trailer ..
The other would be a tow hitch and then just some sort of carrier it could just sit on and be strapped down ..
Sort of like a Bicycle carrier that connects to a tow hitch..
Is that a option you could build ,a hitch and maybe even design a chair holder as it folds flat..

Also would you be ok with making changes to the frame rails that run along the side of the seats ,so it is lower than the seat so I can transfer into it .then maybe have a safety bar that locks in place like a roll cage does ..
I was also thinking about finding away to make that piece of side body work that runs along the seat to be removed & redesigned to allow transferring.or to put it on a hinge so it swings out to allow me to get in ? ..
I figured if it’s being torn apart for a automatic and a turbo might as well do it all together..
Sorry i didn’t mean to jack the thread..

While I’m totally blown away with this and it’s even in my color and has just about everything I’d want .its a total work of art ,& man is live in that thing if it was mine lol.. congratulations of a wonderful machine...go blow away the dealers mind ..don’t for get to come to Texas to give me a ride lol..

,my only concern and something I just wouldn’t feel comfortable with ,and I have to ask why ? As I’ve had issues with other vehicles before..
Is why relocate the air filter to the lowest part of the vehicle ,& even more so close to the tire ? And the heat of the exhaust ?.
We all know it happens.rain flooding and sometimes water lines we just can’t help to go through ...
I know it can’t be measured on a DYNO,but that forced(ram air) induction you naturally get which helps cool the air more at speed ,and with the filter being so close to the headers in traffic and low speed it seems that the heat build will hurt its performance especially in the summer ,& I know yes it’s got a CAC...
Or am I just pointing out the obvious because the ram air hasn’t been reinstalled yet ?

Man that’s a sexy Machine ...great job..

thank you sir..but it’s those brothers & sisters we have all lost that gave the most who we owe the most and the reason I’m still able to look forward to hopefully being able to sling along with ya ..

Thanks ..:)

Well all I can say is my ripchair has been listed for sale at 38k ,so as soon as it sells it will give me some play cash to get that kit among many other things a SS project will need ..I have to have two organs removed next Thursday due to tumors and stones ,then two weeks later all the chest fat and 4 lumps in there removed & then two weeks later my spine has to be operated on ..so hopefully by the time my crippled ass has gotten healthy again and able to roll around in my wheelchair ,I will have the ripchair sold and a good candidate picked out ,and it will be well on it’s way to being finished or at least started ..
I just want something to increase my heart rate a ton in this Crippled army vets ass,before I also have heart surgery down the road ..I’ve put that off to last so just Incase my number is up ,& I’ve been healthy enough to sky dive a few more times and gotten to feel a like like the racer I once was rangers lead the way ..but I’m also old enough now to know once in awhile we have to follow as well...lol...
He biggest issue is just getting in and out ,& either doing a lift or modded the frame and installing a wheelchair holder

Quote from rabtech

As far as sticking the rear to the ground..... I have the ability to keep it pretty much stuck to the road.... You just have to bring the boost up a little slower by using your gas pedal. Once you get used to how your bike performs you can control it.. its not that big of a deal... I finally switched over to my boost controller early this morning.... I have been bumping it up and down all day just to see where the sweet spot is when on the highway... And I have found that anything over 12psi for daily driving and passing on two lane roads is just asking to have an accident.... You have to be so attentive to what your doing just to pass a car. If you give it the slightest gas before you are in the passing lane your ass will come loose and slide waaaaaaay out (because your steering that way). . I just get in the other lane and ease on the gas and she instantly goes from 55 to 80 and up.

I was on the interstate today and it was 96 degrees. I pulled under the underpass in the shade for a min and adjusted my duty cycle on my controller from 35% to 55% and you would have thought I installed a whole 2nd engine beside mine.... I come up the on ramp to the interstate and was right at 100 mph before i got to the interstate. The engine sounded even sounded different. I looked at the boost difference and it added 2 to 3 psi to the 12 psi i was running. That 2 to 3 psi is a huge amount when you add it to 12...

Im just saying with my Micky Thompson slick and the automatic transmission I can pretty much outrun most sports cars now from a dig to 90mph. Most fast cars will leave you after that. Or that is what I have found to be true.

I am going to experiment with the boost by gear next week and see how that works.... It should keep some of the wheel spin to a minimum.

I have seen in the ECU something about 165mph . But I can tell you for sure..... The limiter is going to be wind..... Wind is the evil of the slingshot.... And your correct.... You can get to 100mph in a hurry... But just like magic.... after 100mph the wind start holding you back.....

I believe we need a physics professor to really calculate the drag..... It just feels like it actually starts some sort of drag magnification effect.... Each mph over 100 to 110 it seems like the wind drag is doubled... Or it sure feels like it....

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Has anyone seen a wind tunnel test done ?

Has anyone seen kits to fill in the big open areas in the front or kits to redirect any airflow ?

Is there any prove that those rear wings even generate any down force that Benefits it at a speed

I didn’t read anywhere about what happens with the ABS AND THE traction control with that quad set up..it didn’t look like there where any sensors plugged in for it..
I looked around and found another company who does a quad conversion called track hammer they claim to be the only one who retains all the factory Systems .. they use GM Corvette rear ends which have pretty darn good Limited slip set ups ,it also appears to be base on a VETT rear suspension to some degree .using the GM rear end is how they are able to keep the factory system working,probably due to having the same teeth on the reluctor wheels .. it’s also a mail order kit which supposedly installs in one day with simple hand tools...
While the one from bullet looks so much better with it’s F1 styling ..but with out traction control and ABS on the freeway it could get Hairly for myself ,lol...
But honestly the bullet design just looks so much better ..wonder if it could be built with a vett rear end to retain the systems...that’s going to be my first question when I’m ready..

If you read the website it states that installing it is included in the cost of the part..
It also is only sold at the shop not in a mail kit form..
Although it would be nice if they put the cost on the site ,I hate when they post —call for pricing
I’m guessing it’s not built complete on a jig then transferred to the Ss like other aftermarket parts are.. especially considering he said that his was he best fitting so far to date...

I just can’t wait to get started although I have to sell my tank first but I’m not willing to take a hit on it just to do this..
So while I save for parts and plan it out hopefully I will get it sold for what I’m asking which will give me enough to build most of the project .
...
There’s nothing better than starting a new project which you know your going to love and have as much fun building it as you do driving it...

From what I read the ProCharger kit comes with away to tune the ecm yourself with their can tune so it’s a plug and play tune.
Although if you want more power I’m sure it’s like any other system you have to have a shop custom tune it probably from scratch ...
Now when you say encrypted What do you mean ? It’s some how different from other GM OBD2 ecm’s which are also locked and require the purchase of a license to get the software to tune the ecm ?
if not using a canned programmer ...

From what I read is it’s a marine based ecm ...
It just limited to a few software platforms..
I read HP TUNERS may be releasing software or has already...
It just sucks that there isn’t any programmers like they sell for cars which allow multiple tunes and the ability to monitor the system..
I sure am enjoying having a completely new platform ive never worked on from a performance stand point to learn about ...as I have built and worked on many older gen1 motors in cars :.

the Procharger looks like a well built kit..although I think I’d like to see a way to direct the air in while keeping some of that heat from transferring into the air filter..that said at speed it may not make that much difference I’ve just always been a fan of a good intake system,it probably wouldn’t take much from one of the skilled guys on the forum..
It claims +55% increase at 8psi with its boxed tuning,and offers more with additional aftermarket tuning and boost..so about 270 hp@8psi..means the kits are all pretty close the main difference im guessing is just the curve and how it comes in..although I think DDM said 8psi should equal 80hp and this kit claims 96hp @8psi..

One thing I like about Procharger is that you can order a I-Charger which allows you to have the tune ability on the fly like a turbo gives you and more..they have a onscreen programmer which allows the boost to be tuned every 500rpm as well as having 4-5 set maps for just cruising along with good mpg up to all out racing and good up to 800-850hp..not saying it will make that much on the SS ..
I’ve also seen a kit they set up like a turbo using the smaller pulley and two blow off’s like a turbo to give Control over boost on the fly..

That’s my main like on turbos that your able to hammer it hard on low boost and not worry about wear and tear ,and then turn it up and really go nuts when your at the track..

Quote from Slingrazor

You would be surprised at what a stock 2.4 can handle with a blower. The numbers I have posted in the past are lower than I can post. Just to say, the dyno sheet makes everyone's assumptions of what a stock motor can take look weak.
One day I will post.
For those who dont know me, I am fact based and dont make assumptions from theories.

What are you running ?

has anyone seen anyone tried or seen the Procharger set up for the SS,? ..if I was going to use a blower In a SS I would feel more comfortable using a product from a brand I’ve used in the past with zero issues,and has the great track record on many types of vehicles ...

I’ve never had a blown 4cyl ,and normally it’s true a blower generates more torque at a lower Rpm and is able to carry it flat throughout the curve ...
While turbos are able to build more more total power due to less parasitic loss at the same psi..so to see the Hann turbo graph I think it was making more power sooner was eye opening and made me think..

I’m guessing that it might be because of the drag and that a 4cyl just doesn’t make enough power down low to over come it..? Anyone have any insight to any of this..I know some newer types of S/C’s have very little drag compared to those it takes both hands to turn ,lol..

Quote from SSREAPER

Let me help you with that image!!
DID SOMEBODY SAY MORE HORSEPOWER?!?!

Sorry man I only have vision in one eye,and that’s enough to pull the other out with a spoon! Lol...

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I’ve been planning out my SS and obviously like lots of us I get ahead and sometimes a yr or so down the road in planning out our dream toys...
While looking at engines and turbos ,as most know 275-maybe 300rwhp is the max a stock 2:4 can handle..the next step is the gen 3 instead of going back to the gen1 Ecotec ..
While reading threads on websites from Ecotec builders for cars as well as SS ,ZZ performance has written on their website that a stock GEn3 eco tech can handle 500hp on boost without any mods to the engine...which come to 430rwhp with the approximate 14% loss at the rear wheels..
So I guess my question is has anyone seen any prove of this,? As that long block is less than $2k new and as low as a grand used with low miles on them..if it worked seems like a cheap way to make huge power while saving 3-4K..
? Or is this a case where only the block is a direct swap.. obviously anything can be drop in as prof by the LS V-8’s running around..

Could you just image a stock 3.5 eco boost twin turbo in a SS..AS IVE SEEN the crate eco boost putting down so much torque in stock form in a mustang it had to be De-tuned..like over 600rwTq @3000rpm and 500rwtq @ 1800 rpm and that’s with the gen one..rated at 420tq at 2500rpm in the f150..
I’ve seen stock F150’s with the GEN2 eco3.5 running 11sec 1/4 mile with just a tune and a air filter..man with slicks on a SS quad talk about needing wheelie bars,lol..

That looks so much better than it did with 3 wheels the rear end of it just comes together so much better with four wheels...makes me wonder how it handles compared to stock..as having 3 wheels it’s probally a lot more rear end happy and loose..
Not sure if you have ever pushed it hard or really tracked it,but it would be a good read to see it compared to a SLR on a track ..
It’s really going to hook once you get that turbo installed, that thing with jump out of the hole..back when I used to race,I had a Yamaha banshee with a 424cc about 135rwhp and havimg 4 wheels I would race vetts and even 1000cc bikes on the street and out run them to 100-110mph then I got my lunch handed to me. Lol..

Who’s BOB ? Bob the builder lol..he does some really sweet work..
.

That chart seems to be a little on the smaller size or leaner side of things not leaving much room for era’s.. ... for example ,my factory boosted ZL1 had 56lbs stock injections @58psi with 580hp..and we jumped to ID850’s @56psi once we turned up the boost climbing above the 600rwhp mark ..so there’s no way I would run a 800hp boosted v8 with 63lb injectors based on that chart..or would I run 47lb injectors on a 600hp boosted motor based off that chart especially at the stated @43psi he was referring to..
But like was pointed out there are many ways to do it like a boost@pump which increases voltage and boosts pressure, and meth to over come what might be a lean issue at certain points ..although I’d rather just play it safe and Era on the side of caution with larger injectors,as the conversation is primarily about injectors..
This is the equation we used to teach the kids when I taught at UTI for awhile after being crippled,and what we used at the shop always when we modded customers cars.
So To be 100% correct and safe Follow this formula to determine injector sizing: (Horsepower x BSFC) / (No. of injectors x .80) So, for a NA 600hp V-8 it would work out as such, (600 x .50) / (8 x 0.8) = 46.87 pound per hour injectors ,which rounded is 47lb. If you want to convert to cc/min: multiply x10.50..
If it’s a boosted motor then you multiply The power x .60 instead of .50...
A NA engine has a BFSC of .50 per horse power and .60 BSFC Per horse power for a boosted engine...although if you look at boosted factory engines their injectors tend to be even larger than this equations results if you compare them ...

Also on most all cars The ECM calculates fuel consumption based on formulas and operating data from the engine and not the amount of fuel injected into the cylinders So swapping injectors wouldn’t matter that much ,plus who swaps injectors without reprogramming it ?..very few cars actually Measure the amount of fuel flowed through the systems fuel lines,the main source is either the mass air,or the map sensor,or both to determine load to calculate amount of fuel being used..I’ve not looked into how the SS system works,but

Something else and I know it’s a little off track,but you get different mileage from different brands of gas because they have different densities ,and currently there is no way to accurately measure the difference..even summer and winter gas have different densities changing mpg.

is that plastic painted ? Or some sort of coating ,or molded in color..It’s hard to tell as I was going to In a thread a bunch of totaled SS..some parts seem to be molded in that color others seem to have white or black under the base color.....

If it’s just replacing plastic and there’s no painting go to the dealer...if you need painting I guess it depends on what you have available to ..if u have a well known sling shot performance shop I’d go there..if not I’d find a high end body shop which does performance cars, before I’d go to the corner body shop..all that said I’d still get quotes from the dealer for all the parts for the insurance if it needed painting or not..