The sway bar did not have the locks on it. Polaris shipped some Slingshots without the stops. For those that do not have the stops, just about an auto parts store has them in stock. The size for the stock sway bar is 1 1/4 inch O.D.
Yep, pretty much exactly what I did. I got mine from Amazon tho'.
Now, that is funny!! Go to a show? Really? Our dealers are all quitting the SlingShot here in the west/northwest, (Closest now is an 8 hour round trip), and we haven't even seen another SlingShot in maybe two years now. So the chances of getting together enough SlingShots to do a showing? Not very bloody likely!!
Aw, I see that the OP is from NM, maybe he might have a better opportunity there!
Bill
And yet the dealer in San Antonio sell 40+ Slingshots per month alone. Heck, he sells and delivers them into Florida! Where everyone drives a SS.
Back to your question about the good/bads about the stock Slingshade:
Before you buy ANY top, go around and see what ones you like. There are different kinds that have different advantages/disadvantages. Go to a show and sit in diff SS with diff roofs. Many people will let you sit in theirs to try them. If you can make it to Texas, there is going to be 3 shows (Houston, Corpus Christi, & Kerrville) in April-May where I'm sure you can see all kinds.
Not any endorsement, but check out Twist Dynamics Roofs or SlingMods Roofs. They have quite a few different roof systems so you can see some of the different styles. There are also a couple other suppliers on here that offer different styles too including at least one temporary/portable system that stores in your cubby until you need it.
Less than an inch thick, less after you sit on it. They aren't really cooling. All the do is blow air through the pad to keep you from sweating and sticking to the seat. But I could tell a big difference when driving in 100+ degree temps.
If you see my friends at the beach today, tell them I'll see them tomorrow
When I kick them out of bed, I will let them know to meet you at the beach.
Display MoreIts going to rain here for the next 5 days so - out comes the detail cart. I am going to go thru the Slingshot and the Talon and have them ready for the break in weather.
I also need to do some more spring cleaning to get ready for Slingshots Uncorked.
This is my entry
I'm in lust with your shop! 
Pho' King near me in Austin::
BTW, You know EjFord is gonna win this just by any one of his dozens (100s?) of photos of bikini beauties in his SS....
That gentleman has more game than Kobe!
OOOOHHH!! I GOT THIS! Turbo Installed!
THIS IS MY ENTRY.
Yes, many people have retrofitted after market seats with heating and/or cooling over the years. (I don't wanna be one of those guys that say "Search", but . . . .) The new Polaris H/C seats are just so expensive compared to what is out there aftermarket that it doesn't make a lot of sense to buy the Polaris ones where there are PRP, Cipher, Braun, and other brands that look so much better at less than 1/2 the cost.
In my case, I only needed cooling seats a couple times a year so I just bought some cooling pads off Amazon/Ebay. Otherwise, I have the Twist Dynamic seats and am very happy with them.
The nice thing about @chavey2's setup is that he has relays protecting each switch so the switch only carries a few milliamps to trigger the relay instead of the full amperage of the circuit being activated.
Yep, that's the way I wired it. Power comes through the fuse to the switch to turn on the relay. Main power then goes to the relay to the unit. I did it this way because I planned on adding a train horn that might be pulling 20-25amps at some point, other wise you could wire it to run 12 circuits (6 on fuse, 6 on relay). My plans have changed now so I don't need that much amperage, which is why I suggested the FZ-1 unit instead. If you don't want it switchable with the ignition, you can just run a regular marine fuse panel such as the Blue Sea Fuse Block.
Call K&N. They warranty those for a million miles. They will prob send you a new one for free. They did for me a few years ago.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app
Me. I ran an entire new 50Amp fuse block. I've got switchable circuits for lights, horns, etc. If I were to do it again however, I would just buy theFZ-1 Block from Slingmods. Would have been much easier install with same results.
I ran the Toyo T1R and it performed very well. I had the stock tire size 305/30/20. I think its discoctinued but you can find it some places -
https://www.discountedwheelwar…D+103Y&partno=Toyo-240490
They may have some at RevDynamics as well since this is a tire they used for all of their aftermarket sets
THAT"S the one I was looking for! That's probably why it wasn't one the Toyo site any more - discontinued.
Since it is discontinued, does anyone know what the direct replacement would be?
Yep, change it at 1500 miles, 5000 miles, then 10000 miles and you should be good for a long time. Just use any name brand/quality stuff.
Actually second, just by a couple minutes
That's what she said! 
Okay, digging up this thread. My Nitto 555 in the rear is about used up. And now with the Turbo, it's gonna get used up faster. Time to order new tires.
I have heard and seen the Toyo Proxes and really like them. But I can't find the thread pattern that I saw live. The ST III's are closest, but that's not exactly what I see the other people in SS's running. Anyone got an idea how the ST IIIs would run given they are a light truck tire?
Currently running Nitto 555 R2s 295/25ZR22's on a Twist Dynamics 22x11 rim so wanna keep same diameter but go as wide as I can. Looking at the 295/30 or /35's below.
