If anyone is in my area I will do the work and they can video. Seeing it would make sense of it and make it look easy.
Posts by Travis
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This is the pulls/sprocket bearing p/n.
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The bearing will have the center hole with grove for grease.
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Yeah, I got it last fall but just now did the zerk. If you are going to do this, make sure you have a new bearing on hand. The old one came out in pieces!
Great job! You nailed it. Glad you found the bushing. I did the same exact thing
getting that bastard out is the worst part. Did you measure how far in yours was before you took it out? I would think they would all be the same but maybe up to a 1/8" it doesn't matter. The bushing is pretty wide. After I installed the new bearing I tried the zerk and the grease went into it perfect. Since it was already packed I didn't add more. -
Took off the SL stock clear before My MadStad came. Don't have to worry about smelling exhaust fumes!
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My RZR 800 is two years old and no fire yet. Only like 600 miles on it.
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But the record... As it shows on your screenshot, is/was 385! That should be how many users at one time... More than likely many guests, but hot damn! Excellent work @rabtech!
I noticed that too. I am damn proud to have my name on there. Just did a build thread so I can keep getting those points. Maybe get to intermediate. Hell if I stick with it get to professional like Tripod! Glad your happy Rab you done fantastic!!!!
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Thank you for the tips. I lied one more question. So is the anything that the bearing seats against, or you just drove it in as deep as the measured amount of the original one?
Not really anything to stop the bearing. That's why I was glad I measured it.
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Okay Travis, one more question and I'll try not to pester you anymore! When you did your mod, did you remove the axle in order to get the bearing out, or can you get it without taking it out? Thanks
I did pull the axle out on the wheel side. It comes out easy once the pulley is off. You should be using a bearing puller from there. I did mine the hard way. Tapped it out from the opposite side. Need to be carefull not to gouge the inside of the axle where the bearing is seated. That was why I had to get a new bearing. I have a puller now but haven't tried it.
The only good thing to come from that was I ground the old bearing outer race down so it was just small enough to slip in the axle hole without being tight at all. Then I use it to tap in the new bearing to the exact distance. In my case it was .611" One can mess that bearing up easy.
Something else to know is after I had it back together and started it the anti-skid light was on. Once I took off and the rear wheel went into motion it went off. Nothing to worry about whit the sensor. I never messed with the sensor or the wheel bearing. -
Also, FYI the new V2 headers can install without removing any studs!
Never took out the studs either. The header isn't bad for the money. Noel has it right!
Good luck and enjoy. -
Just spoke with @Noel Hughes and ordered the prp seats.
@roadog1aj If I decide to give them away you are first on my list lol
That's what I'm about ready to do. Need to get a couple more dollars saved because I'm purchasing the seats loaded (heated w/lumbar).
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Please let me be the first post..
Ok, I reallllllllly am jealous. And because I know he probably won't make me any of these shiny parts I have to pick on you .....
Shawn will make them for anyone with$$$$ Rab
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So from this picture you can see the bearing pressed in from the axle opening surface. That bearing will have to be out to drill clear through. So the pulley would need to be taken off first. From that flat outer surface to the center of my bearing was 1 1/16". Once a new bearing is pressed back in the bearing center groove and hole should be center of the zerk.
I never measured from the outer pulley. Hope this helps. -
oops my bad travis..i meant to say. how far from outside of sprocket? i guess is what i want to know for zerk hole to be drilled?
oops my bad travis..i meant to say. how far from outside of sprocket? i guess is what i want to know for zerk hole to be drilled?
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Glad your aboard Josh. Love my J-Mod!
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how far in is this zerk hole drilled? and is it 1/4"? ..used with a standard bottom tap.or tapered tap? thanks
The hole is drilled from the outside of the axle to the inside of the axle hole. Depending on the thread of the zerk will determine the drill and tap used. There's a couple different sizes. Use a scrap piece of aluminum at least a 1/4" thick to make sure the drill and tap will work correctly. I don't believe a tapered tap is necessary if you use a bit of thread locker.
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One more quick question, did you also replace the bearing bushing when you replaced the bearing. And, in your opinion, does the bushing need to be replaced at the same time? I have the bearing but not the bushing
Never did the bushing. It looked fine. Unless the axle became loose I wouldn't think it would wear enough to replace.
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Great idea, I'm curious though, how hard was it to get the pulley off. And did you use any thread locker on the nut. Thanks
My pulley came off pretty easy I thought. Tapped the axle a little and out it came. When my dealer did the double nut conversion they did use loctite. The inside nut was good and secure. I used the green loctite on the pulley and nuts when reassembling.
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This forum is hopping now. Noel is giving us the Slingshot Only web site to get all those great and Bad Ass mods. I know where I buying my new PRP seats.
