Posts by iNewton

Imo, if your finances arre so tight that you can't pay the 600 extra for an intercooler, don't go turbo.

Quote from SlingRider

We are on Disney this week. They increase in security and metal detectors is huge!!

Good to hear. Heading there with my familly in august and was wondering about this.

Well,

Just finished building the engine and reinstalled the entire turbo kit.

First startup went well, gave it 4-5 10 sec starts with no coil plugged until I got 40 psi oil pressure on my gauge, the plugged in the coils and it started on the first turn.

I was warned about piston noise on forged pistons, and tbh honest I was a bit stressed that something was loose or badly installed, but engine runs good, idles perfect, no hesitation, no oil burning, and on follwing startups where I let the engine build heat more, it starts to fade a lot.

If it sunny tomorow, I might just take it for a spin and see how it goes on low load.

@Bugzilla

I don't think the pin is offset.

I didn't get it balanced, the final weight of the pistons and rods is 1g lighter than my lightest oem parts, and my oem rods and pistons had 8g difference between the lightest and heavyest pistons and rods.

If we where pushing redline, I would get it balanced but for 6000rpm (which I rarely hit because of tire spin in the first 3 gears.) with the weight difference I don't think it makes mich difference.

This winter, I might decide to go all out and take the entire thing out, get it sleaved, balanced, remove the balance shafts, reaplace bearings with clevite, get a 2.0L head in the block, valves and spring, etc and get the redline bumped to 9000rpm, but that would require a standalone ecu and tuning also.

i will se after this summer if I get tired of the power like it is now lol.

@Speedr117 yes, I am not touching the rods.

The Eagle 2.2 rods are larger at the big end than OEM rods.

This is not an issue on the 3 other pistons, just on the 4th one where the side of the rod contacts the block right where the crankshaft sensor bolts.

I assume that rods made for the 2.4 would not have this issue and would be narrower at the big end to clear the bump.

If you look at the video I made (I know its dark), this is filmed looking down from the oil passage on top of the block, with the back light you can see that the block catches the edge of the rod. It doesn't require a lot of metal to be removed, but its enough to stop the engine rotation solid and well, I wouldn't even try to start it like that lol

Just FYI, I found that the 2.2L rods has a binding issue on the 4 piston (the one closer to the flywheel).

There is a bump in the block for the crank sensor bolt. Its very thick for no apparent reason, and it hits the rod:

Its the bump you see on the left side of the image.
Because I didn't want to take the engine appart, or out of the SS, what I did it get a long narrow cold chisel, and I chipped away at the bump until I got around 1/3 of an inch of clearance. Its hard to do, but it was the best way to do it, vs grinding that would have thrown aluminum all over the place, the chisel has the advantage of making big chunks that are easy to pick up after.

This is the result, its not pretty but it works:

Now the rod clears with plenty of space and the rebuild can continue

Finally after so much waiting, time to start reassembling this engine.

Pistons looks sweet

@ConnMan I think most poeple would go with the F compound, not the R or N. The R is most for mild racing / aggressive street use and N is full out racing. I think F is prefered for street use.

hard to get a good shot but this is what I mean:

Yeah the springs I got are the 82 but I find they are VERY close... Like piece of paper close.

Ok so great mind think alike lol. What springs are you using? I went with zzp's springs with titanium retainers.

My only issue is that once installed I find they are very very close to the head "bridges" where their is a machined path its too close, I will need to take the valves out again and grind some material off to get more clearance. Not much but I assume that the springs must move a bit when the engine is running and if it rubs it will end being a disaster lol.

When you install the rods, are you using a stretch gauge or just torque?

Well, I know that eagle doesn't make rods for the 2.4 so those must be for the 2.2 which means they are a but longer than stock, so your piston had to get the pin hole repositioned higher on the piston.

If that is the case, that build is the exact same one I came up with lol

Did you guys do anything to the valve train?

Hey guys,

Just finished installing Hawk pads on the front of my SS.

These things are breeze to install. Anyone on the fence about these fearing the fit shouldn't worry at all. The only modification needed is the removal of the metal bracket that warns the pads needs replacing.

You install the pads with the dots to the inside of the caliper, and the flat pads on the outside.

• Took me 15 minutes to install including pictures.

Quote from Bugzilla

What would you like to know about it? Like what is on the inside? Maybe, just maybe, this....

Display More

Its a good start, you get the idea

I like to learn of the details of building it, like how you measured the bore, adjusted ring gaps, what pistons you went with etc...

Much more interesting than wastergate springs imo

Good work, only I find it sad that no information of pics about engine building is posted...

Wish vendors who actually have this experience and knowledge would show more than wastegate spring swaps...

Well according to Hawks website its the letter in the part number that changes:

HB275F.620 is ceramic standard pads
HB275R.620 is street race pads

Etc.

I ordered street race pads, its the last step before going to BBK...

I have a hard time believing you need 14inch disks to stop a 760kg machine. We will see how the pads do on the track.

Anyone tried the other compounds for the same pads? For track use for example

I don't have spacers, I just don't like the idea of finding out my studs are not strong / long enough for racing while doing 120 on a stretch

Quote from rabtech

Longer studs?? I don't. But maybe using the Dorman part number you can find them.

How much longer do you need them?

I would need to measure, but just thinking that for track use it might be a good idea.

The lug nuts seam to work from Nissan and Infinity models, same with the studs, looking at the doorman specs, they look like WRX studs might work from ARP's specs.