Posts by samowens44

Quote from Bigdog

SoCal, with a semi-severe lack of trained slingshot mechanics.....is it possible that the person you talked to doesn’t know about the flasher unit Sam is talking about?

You have the small flasher relay and then you have the main flasher unit under the dash.

The guy you talked to does not understand the Turn Signal System. That relay is really miss labeled. It really is the Secondary lights including the side marker lights. When it turns on it just powers up all those lights. You need a relay because it is too much current for just wiring. That is what a relay does, takes low current circuit and operates with the contacts proving high current drive. The relay does not have any part in the Flashing of the lights. There is only one flasher and it is underneath the Fuse Box and ECU. Now don't get scared, it is not hard to get to, just watch my video. I do these videos to help with folks that have never tried something. As an instructor in the Telephone Company, I know what folks need to understand how to do something. My video are boring to folks that know this stuff. I did not make it for them.

Let me make this clear. I am proving information from my knowledge of a 2017 Slingshot. I don't have a service manual for 2015, I know they did add the secondary light relay after some problem with the 2015, all lights were power through the Primary Light relay and that caused problems as people started adding lights system. We are talking just about the Flasher Module though, forget the relays.

Folks, I have been explaining about the current issue with the Flasher unit but did not have supporting information to explain it. I found it on line. The reason for this is safety. If a light is not properly flashing, too weak or too strong, the Flasher can tell that something is not normal and will give you an indication by just lighting the dash indicator lights. If it were not for this you could be driving in a dangerous condition thinking that all is working great when you put your turn signals on. So it it does not flash, you have a problem with the lights or the Flasher is bad. As I have eplained, adding LEDs in any way to the circuit will change the current and making the Flasher not work if it exceeds the limits. Hope this eplains what I have been trying to explain and how this should be trouble shot.

This is the type Flasher the Slingshot has. This is the key to the problem, intermittent working means the current limit for your external lights is just at the limits. The resistor is needed to get it below the limits to work all the time, or disconnect and go back to OEM.

Quote from SoCal

samowens44 Thank you! It’s Monday and I will try to digest this over the next few days after work. Very much appreciated!

SoCal, if you find you do not understand something please post a note of how I can better help. I tried to use arrows and text to help explain key areas. As you can see the turn Signal light, and dash indicator lights are shown as circles with an X . the switch is shown with a lever that is at an example, that indicated normally open contacts. When you push the turn lever, it closes those contacts and places grd to start the Flash operation. I know you will discover what is wrong when you use this to start trouble shooting. Good Luck,

I am going to show you the Flasher Pin layout and more information about this system. Now my information is from the 2017 Service Manual. The 2015 may be a little different as to some elements. The main thing is the Flasher with your problem. Look at the diagram and you will see, when you turn the ignition on, power is sent to turn on the Flasher. Now nothing happens until you push the turn signal lever to left or right flash. Look back through the thread and find my video for installing my aux leds and that will show you how to get to the Flasher.

Ok, I see what you are saying. I see now that the Switch Back Lights work as running lights and are white, when you turn your turn signal on they blink amber. This all goes back to my experience of the same problem but a little different. The only way I was to get the extra LEDs to work and not shut every thing down was to lower the current and put in a resistor.

I believe the Flasher unit is monitored by the ECU and it shuts down the relay I think.

I would say disconnect the switch back lights and see if your OME works fine. One may be drawing too much current.

SoCal You need to have someone look at both front turn signal light and rear turn signal to see which light is not burning. If one of the lights has a bad connection and is not drawing the proper current, you can have this problem. So far all I have seen is the green indicator light on instrument panel.

The Left and right Turn signals have to have a light drawing current in both front and rear. If not you get the steady green indicator. If it is the front, it is easy to unplug and re plug the turn signal light plug to see if that will correct it. If you have a failed lamed in the back, you have to drop the bottom deck to get to the plugs.

If both lights are lighted, then you have a possible flasher bad.

Guys, this is the way I do it and what I use! You know I have a video for everything I do. Our windscreens are not Glass, so take some precautions to keep from deteriorating the material with chemicals that are not meant to come in contact with.

If you want it to stay crystal clear then use approved products for your Slingshot Windscreen. Watch my video for all the details.

I am praying and hoping Brenda to wake up in the morning and all is much better. Here is a project I did last Christmas Season, just to show the members what a lovely wife you have. God will be good to her I am sure.

Brenda and FunCycle are going to Disney World, Soon!!!

Quote from SoCal

Follow up question.... I notice that all the relays have the same number on them.

Does this mean they are interchangeable? (4011283) Showing my electrical ignorance but are all the relays the same they just control a different aspect of the SS?

If so then having a spare is a universal good thing

Yes, you can swap them out. If they have same number. For Trouble shooting you could swap two relays to see if the problem changes. You can actually feel the relay click if you put your finger on it. So, with the help of someone to operate a switch or whatever circuit is failing, you could place your finger on relay, if it does not click, then it is bad.

Quote from Bigdog

Where do these go?

Here is a layout of the fuse block under the hood. The information shown in the diagram was for someone else. This is just to show where the Turn Signal Relay is located. Always check your year Owners manual for proper fuses and relays.

Quote from Bigdog

Sam I installed 6 sequential lights, 3 on each side.

So does the resistor/s have to be installed before each separate light or just one before the sequential module?

If the Sequential module is connected into the Flasher module, then that will only require one resistor between the Sequence Mod and the turn signal leads for left and right. Since your SEQ Mod has it's own power supply, you may not need it, just depends on how much current the Seq mod will draw. Try it without, if it fails, you know what to do.

Quote from Bigdog

Sam I installed 6 sequential lights, 3 on each side.

So does the resistor/s have to be installed before each separate light or just one before the sequential module?

SoCal when dealer diagnoses and finds the problem, please post the findings. We all want to know how to fix this type of problem, as you can not safely drive without proper turn signal operation. Most of us are out of warranty. Thanks for creating the thread ans sharing with us.

The wiring diagram shows my original idea, for placement of LED Strips on each Support Arm of the mirrors. I changed it and put both LEDs side by side on the Drivers Side. That way I can see either LED Strip with no problem.

Quote from Bigdog

So you didn’t actually use the relay to trigger the lights?

Did not use it as a relay, wanted a resistor of about 75 to 100 ohm and did not have them. I had the two relays that had a 75 ohm coil. I wired it in series with the LED Strips. I did not use the relay contacts at all. I make things work, McGiver kind of stuff.

Here is the wiring diagram I made for aux LED turn sign indicators. At the spice location is where I installed my resister, my video show where I placed the relays. I exchanged the relays with the 100 ohm relay. If anyone adds LED Strips for the turn signals this is something that can cause a problem in the system. The resistor will correct it. I added the Flasher to the diagram.

SoCal I need to add another bit of info that I remember about my research into adding the LEDs to the Turn Signal system. I hooked it all up. No resistors or relay, just straight wire into existing turn signal lead. I tested the system and the LEDs Blinked along with the system turn signal lights. I thought all was working as planned. I wanted to take a test drive and see how well it performed under driving condition and visibility. I cranked up and checked the signals one more time and that is when I discovered that it would blink once and stay green. So I determined that with the engine running, there is something about the engine and running system that is causing this. I thought about this and figured there is only one reason, a change in current that will occur with the engine running. I had already installed single LED lamps that worked fine. I disconnected them thinking that may be causing the problem. It still failed with engine running. I thought of the way to lower the current is to install resistance. I had two relays from my inventory of parts and installed the relay coil in series with the LEDs and OEM turn signal lights. I found the resistance was 75 ohm for the relay coil. I determined that the issue was a current one with the LEDs and I solved the problem. I ordered some 100 ohm resistors and changed out the relays. All is working fine now.

I can not explain why it just started failing now, but if you add a resistor to the LEDs I feel it may solve your problem. One other possible problem could be the Flasher module.

I am relating my experience with the problems I had, to help explain how current can cause the flasher module to not flash. Adding a parallel extra LED light will cause more current to flow in the flasher. I have found, LED Strips draw a lot more current than one LED or light.

I would like to know what it turns out to be.

The previous post about installing LED AuxTurn Signal Indicators was a second attempt to improve the one I first install at the center dash area. They just did not get my attention. A strip of LED's is needed and it needs to be near the Drivers Rear View Mirror. This video will show the access to the Turn Signal Flasher for a better hookup to the Turn Signal Circuit.

Guys, I have already been into this area and found some things that may help. A while back I installed LED Light Strips to my driver side Rear View Mirror Support arm. I hooked them up to the Turn Signal Leads. I found that they would only blink one time and stay on solid. I found the Led's were drawing too much current and would stop system from flashing. I installed a 100 ohm resister in series with the leads to the Signal leads. Wala, the system will now blink. I found this all out by installing a relay in the circuit to relay the blink to the light. It worked and found the resistance of the relay was around 75 ohms. Couldn't find a 75 Ohm resister but did find a 100 ohm resister and it is in the range to work. The LED's are just as bright.

So, if you have any external indicator lights hooked up it can cause the flasher to stop flashing. Current sensitive circuit. Here is my video about hooking up the LEDs.

Happy Birthday, your birthday present of colorful background for the nice lady and your Slingshot in Tennessee.

Members, it is getting close to the time for Thanksgiving and Turkey Cooking. I do have a video on Trash Can Turkey Cooking. All the steps to make it and use it. Turkey comes out perfect and great entertainment for the family or groups of friends. I wanted the same thing for cooking Chickens. I came up with a smaller Pet Food Pale that I use as the trash can. I show how to condition it for cooking and how to prepare and place everything for a perfect cooked chicken. It is really tender, moist and melt in your mouth great. For now take a look at my cookers, I will post both for viewing.

Youtube Video Link

Youtube Video Link

Rick Roth battery voltage has to be in the range of about 11.0 to 12.8 volts to get the starter enough current to turn over. When you hear nothing or clatter sounds when you hit start button, voltage is too low. First thing is to check voltage for starting range. You will need to charge battery. If voltage is too low, battery may not be able to hold full charge voltage of 12.6 to 12.8 for a health battery. You should purchase a voltage monitor that can be plugged into power port for quick view of battery condition. They only cost $10 to $15 @ auto parts store or on Amazon. I have a page on this forum that has lots of information design to help new owners. I thank BKL for giving my YouTube channel. Here is my page, Sam Owens media and info Section this thread, New Owners Important Slingshot Infomation

I have a number of post covering the subject of the Battery.