Posts by samowens44

    LED have a wide range of operating current. The brightness of the LEDs will not change. LEDs either go on full bright or if voltage and current are too low they will not operate. ON or OFF! So if they don't light, then too much resistance. I think 100 ohms is just right.

    Let me explain why this condition may happen when aux Lights are connected to the Turn Signal System. Again, the Flasher Module monitors the current levels when the Signal are activated and the emergency flashers. The turn signals only operate normally 2 led units front and rear, when the Emergency Flasher is working with the ignition on, there are all the systems drawing current throughout the Slingshot. This lowers the voltage and current into the Flasher module and it may meet the limits with aux lights.

    Here is the problem, when the key is off, when you most likely will use the Emergency Flashers. Now all current is flowing in the Flasher Module. This will allow more voltage and current to flow in the Flasher Module causing the Limits of current to be exceeded.

    Folks, it is clear to me, the after market manufacturers did not investigate the Slingshot Flasher Module and determine how it worked with current limits. All they need to do is ohms law, calculate the draw of current from their product and add the proper resistance to lower the current to meet the Limits of the Flasher module and this thread would have never existed. I hope they see it and take the action needed to properly design the product current draw on the Flasher Module to meet the limits. Simple as that. They could add the resistance to the Driver Module (black box). With only two complains, I feel they have not redesigned the system and each module can have a little different resistance to meet the Flasher. SoCal, please check your Emergency Flashers with the ignition off, and let us know if they flash properly.

    This is important to know if they have made changes to their Driver Module and it does lower the current limits.

    The Flashers are important for road side conditons and need to know they are not failing due to Aux Lighting systems.

    Thanks for your input, I was just made aware of this failure condition.

    thanks for trying the resistor to lower the current to allow the Flasher Module work within limit.

    This will work for any devices added to the turn signal leads. TricLed is only one manufacturer out of many. Thanks mpj220 for your doing the Resistor mod. Thanks for the excellent video. The emergency flashers are important and should be checked after any mod to the Turn Signal System. As seen each may flash for left and right, but fail for Flashing emergency.

    I just check mine and the resistor allows all my turn signal system to work with key off and flasher on.
    I did not think to test this when I developed the resistor mod.

    This is why form discussions are important.

    I am happy SoCal has solved his problem with changing the Black Box. I still want to have folks that are adding LEDs to their Turn Signal system to understand the Flasher Module. There is a chance that a black box change will not fix the problem. I am offering my solution of a fail safe solution, a resistor, 2 watt 100 ohms. Look at my ordering infor in previous post.

    I am talking to the members and new owners that have tried everything and nothing works. Good Luck. I think maybe TricLED has added resistance to the Black Box after reports of failures, if you have these lights, I would try getting an upgraded Driver Module, that is what the Black Box is called. If your are adding your own design LEDs then you may want to pay close attention to the Flasher Module description and adding the resistor if you have problems.

    Bigdog it will be good to hear your results of adding the resistor. As you do the add, please let me know if you have any questions. We need to know how the resistor works for a failure with switchback and sequential light systems. I am looking for a solution to any adds to the turn signal system. I can testify they worked for my application.

    I'd like to add that the belt does not actually stretch...instead, it wears, causing it to be looser over time.

    Thanks for that input. I also want to add to this area of belt wear. Clean the drive pulleys and the belt frequently. Dirt is an abrasive that causes wear. Hard exhilaration is another source of belt wear. This will also cause the pulleys to wear, so down the road if you don't take care of it, the belt and pulleys will let you down. By the way, dirt is a big form of noise from belt squeal. Clean belts run better.

    Bigdog is correct about resistors at each LED by the manufacturer would solve the problem. This would be good for future purchasers of the Light System, but there are so many folks with these without the resistor that are out there causing problems. My solution of adding the resistor to the Turn Sigal Lead will accomplish the same thing as the resistor on the LED. This is a fix for all the folks that have Aux Lighting hooked to their Turn Signal Leads.

    As for where the Resistor is placed does not matter, the resistor just lowers the current to allow the limits in the flasher not to be exceeded. It is that simple. Now add the resistor and report your results. If I had a set of switchbacks I would do this and make a video, Snazzy is in Fla and she is being sold soon, so I am kind of out of the loop.

    I will say one thing - this thread has been enough to re-confirm my lack of desire to make any changes in my lighting


    heck I almost never even ride at night =O

    Edward Neal , It not as bad as it seems. We only need to add a resistor the whatever device we add to the Turn signal lead if you are having a problem. Some of the LEDs exceed the Flasher Module current limits. It is really a 5 min job to add one resistor to the sides that are failing. That is all there is to it. I had to lay down a lot of base understanding to help explain why the resistor is needed. 2 watt 100 ohm resistor, a soldering iron, solder, and some shrink tubing and your Switchbacks will flash again.

    @sam, since I have 3 different “black boxes” per side....if I put a 100 ohm resister on each one is that going to be too much? Or should I use a lesser amount of ohms?


    And if one black box is bad would it have any effect on the other lights? I have 2 switchbacks and one sequencer ... if not then I suspect our flasher module is the problem...

    Bigdog you need only one 2 watt 100 ohm resistor on the turn signal going to the aux black box. If there are 3 boxes, then they would all be hooked to the one resistor. If each box is attached to a different location on the signal lead then you would need a resistor for each black box. 100 ohms should be fine with which ever hookup you have.

    You posted a diagram of a Black Module with three LEDs on the output. I do not understand how 3 boxes would work, that would give you 9 lights on each side. Do you mean 1 black box with three lights on each side.

    If that is the case you need the resistor on the input lead that goes to the signal lead.

    As far as black boxes going bad, it would only effect the way the lights flash. The black box is only a switching device.

    I will post one more time as to adding a resistor to the turn signal lead to lower current. Socal ordered a 100 ohm resistor of 1/2 watt value. This may be a little light on the requirement. I was going to post the 2 watt 100 ohm resistor I order from ebay for my project. It works great.


    This is great! Now, all others that are having problems may want to contact the same guy SoCal talked to.

    Bigdog - way cool on the laundry list- some of these were on my mind as well. Polarity was one of them. Showing how tall my learning curve is on this one.


    Hopefully I will get this done tomorrow or the next. I have a doctors appointment on Friday morning I’ll have a 65 mile turnaround. I would imagine that this will be a good test.


    If this does work give me a PM with your address as I would be happy to mail you as many of these as you would like as I will have 98 left over😉

    SoCal, I know all have lots of questions and we will answer them after we find the results of your test. What we are doing is engineering the Switchbacks to work properly with our Turn Signal System. The After Market Dealers should be doing this. But we want the lights, they are installed and I think it will work, it worked for mine.

    When hooking up the resistor with test leads and clips, make sure to insulate (tape) all clips from touching anything metal on the slingshot. Secure with zip ties.

    There is another resister question...


    Your picture of the ones you bought say 1/2 watt. They come in many different watt ratings....so how do we know the right wattage to use? Does that mean it’s all it can handle? If you go over 1/2 watt then what? Does it quit working? Blow a fuse....catastrophic explosion?

    I did notice it was 1/2 watt, but he has them coming today. Mine are 2 watt and they work fine. Due to the flashing of current, on and off, I think it will be fine. This is a test to see if the Switchbacks will even flash and if they do, does it cause the Flasher Module to still fail. We are engineering on the fly. I am not sure what size wattage we should use, but watts are calculated for a circuit by Volts X Amps. 12 volts, not sure of the amps flowing. SoCal should feel if the resistor gets hot as it is flashing, If it is too low in wattage it will get hot. Really, the higher the wattage the better for what we are doing. There are Resistors that have cooling fins just for high wattage needs.

    I really think that people that are having problems with adding Aux lighting to the turn signal system and have problem should tell the place they buy them from and let them engineer the proper resistance before selling them.

    For now, lets just see what SoCal s results when he hooks his resistors up, he will feel them for heat and report his finding. No heat or very low will work.

    Bigdog first, a resistor is a device that controls the amount of current in a circuit. It is like a valve on a you faucet. The higher the resistance the less current. Polarity does not matter.

    As far as adding resistors to all the LEDs you add, no, this is just when you try to add lights to the turn signal leads. The Flasher Module is not heavy duty enough to handle them. It is really the responsibility of the After Market dealers to provide products that match the requirements of the Polaris Slingshot. In my opinion, they missed the mark on this one. Polaris Slingshot should not have to design their equipment to meet the accessories that we want to add.

    The After Market folks should provide a Switchback Light that will meet the current requirements.

    Lets wait for SoCal to finish his testing of the resistor addition to his Switchback Lights to see how they work. Then we can let the folks at the After Market dealers fix this as a lot of owners are having problems.

    I am offering a solution that I found that worked for me when I installed my LEDs to the Turn Signal leads.

    You only possibly need a resistor if you turn signals fail with extra lights on the turn signal leads.

    Have these coming tomorrow.....100 should do the trick 😎


    That is quick, that should do the job 100 is over kill, but the price is right. This is a current on and off for very short time periods, this resistor will work fine. I am sure you are just on the edge of the Flasher Module Current limits as it works most of the time. Looking forward to the results. If this works, you can be the distributor for the fix all of the Flasher problem!!

    Sam I have great news for you and all my fellow slingers....I am currently producing glossy 8”x12” autographed pictures of my 2015 fast gray slingshot. Prices for different packages start at $75...

    Post a copy for me and I will see if it will fit one of the Months on my Calendar, after I work it over with some of my magic. Hope you sell a lot of them, everyone needs an autographed copy of you Slingshot.

    thank you! Wish there were still RadioShack’s around town.

    Yes, Radio Shack was great for resistors. You have displayed the say ones I got, a 5 pack. Now when you are getting supplys, pick up some 3 or 4 ft test leads with clips on each end and you could just clip the wire ends to resistor and do a test ride, make sure you tape all bare wires or you may have a new problem. Then go get the soldering iron and solder along with shrink tubing to do it up right. Lets do the temp hook up and test and find out if it corrects the problem. Once sure all is ok, finish the connections permanently. If other side becomes a problem, you know what to do.

    Now if it does fail, you may need higher resistance, you just connect another resistor in series with the first one. This will give you 200 ohms. I don't think we are going to need this, but it will save you letting me know and what is the next step.

    You have 5 resistors, you go until it works, so get some. Once you arrive at the correct resistance, we order that resistor value. SoCal, you are going to pioneer what it takes to get the Switchback Lights to work without failure. We are cheering you on!!!

    Thank you samowens44 !


    So knowing that the signals work (switchbacks included) putting a 100 ohm resister in line right before the slingmods connection point on the yellow lead should do the trick?

    SoCal with the swichbacks passing test of lighting properly, then you move to add the 100 ohm resitstor, can be any value close to that if you can't find 100 ohms. to be clear, I attached the photo with some directions as to where to install the resistor along with soldering techniques and using heat shrink tubing.


    Folks, I have created a video for the whole world to understand the flasher module of the Slingshot. I have seen numerous post on all the forums of the same problems we have discussed. No one has a sulution. I do, and my video will tell all. Watch all the way through, I cover it all and where we need to go for the true solution above the relay.