Bolt is 4 years old now and weighs 100 pounds, but I figured everyone here might like a baby picture 
Posts by Edward Neal
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Uh, didn't you basically ask this question here - Tools? I was going to point you to my response there with a list of what I carry on my Slingshot when I realized you started that thread, too!
I find the Milwaukee ratcheting screwdriver, supplemented with the HF long-stem drivers to be really handy for most Slingshot fasteners.I was being a bit more specific here in only wanting to know the basic torx and allen wrenches needed
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I have no torx drivers and only one or 2 metric allen wrenches. Can someone give me a short list of what sizes of these I should get for very basic work on my Slingshot.
Thanks.
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Sorry, but I have to disagree. Here in the Palm Springs area super cars like that are a very common sight as such my Slingshot seems to draw much more attention. most people dont even know what it is.
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Got my Master Lock Street Cuffs. I must say that are much more robust than I expected, The chain is massive.
Master Lock says it is bolt cutter proof and I believe them.
and if you turn the wheels before locking it the Slingshot cant even be rolled except in circles
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Okay - just ordered a set of the Master Lock Street Cuffs. Looks like a good solution that will be easy to deal with.
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I see that the Master Lock Cuffs I see that they come in more than one length. Can those who use this tell me which length you bought?
Thanks
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Thanks Tripod. I will have it fixed when I go in for service. at only 3 months and 4000 miles it is still very much under warranty. Heck when we got it my wife insisted that we even get the extended warranty so it will be a long time before I have to worry much about such things
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I had the dealer tighten it up because it wouldn't hold the bike....about 3weeks later I had the wheels removed to have metal valve stems installed at my tire shop...when I got home that day the e brake didn't work again...it will not hold the bike and it's pulled all the way up....there is no resistance when pulling it up.....just like before the dealer fixed it...
There are adjustment nuts under the e brake handle that take out the cable slack...can you adjust them from on top or do you have to get under the bike to reach them?
As per the service manual...2 clicks the dash e brake light should come on, 8 clicks the wheel should not move if turned by hand...I'm assuming that's jacked up...and 10 clicks the bike should not roll...
Interesting - it doesnt how many clicks I pull the e break the light on the dash never comes on
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I was thinking one of these would work very well - it locks the steering wheel to either the clutch pedal or the break
The Club CL303 Pedal to steering Wheel Lock
On the other hand now days most punks that would try cant even drive a stick
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God Bless you Paul for for your service and god bless all of you for this amazing thing you have done. I haven't had the chance to actually meet any of you yet having only had my sling for a short time, but It seems that I have been blessed to have this chance to get to know a great bunch of people
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We will have something in AZ this fall. There are several turbo and supercharger machines you can ride in around here. Also a couple of people with intakes, full exhaust, and MEFI tunes.
AZ would be great - I actually went to ASU. Also in November we will be at Lake Havasu for a week and we have family in Sadona
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Just want to make sure we have this in writing so when we get to take @edwardaneal for a ride in a DDMWorks supercharged Sling we can give him the classic " I told you so " when he changes his mind.
Will we be seeing you at any events @edwardaneal ??? If there are any events in the South West (CA, AZ, NV) I would love to be there - Heck I think there should be a Palm Springs Take Over
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Okay, I have no plans on ever going with a turbo or super charger. As such using bolt on mods like exhaust and cold air intake and ecu programming what would be the max power I could possibly get?
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Well, My Bikerhelmets.com Carbonator with peak came today and I love it. Much smaller and lighter than the Skidlid 1/2 helmet it will replace and much better looking
It as close to not wearing a helmet as you can get
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Glad I asked this question - I am learning things I didn't know
Thank you all
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Very well said @funinthesun. @edwardaneal You are talking about springs now. When you started this you were talking about shocks. Two different things entirely.
Okay, perhaps I am confused. in an earlier post in this thread someone said that a softer rear shock let the rear "squat" and increased traction. - what did they mean by "softer" if they were not revering to the spring? - With coil overs I assumed the firmness or softness is a function of the spring or the tightness of the spring. Please help me understand where I am going wrong
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@edwardaneal We do not run slicks at very very low tire pressures that heated and become sticky as heck from a prior burn out.
We are not trying to sell you better shocks, and by all means if you feel the stock shocks will provide you better traction during a hard acceleration then please keep the original shocks. It's all about what you prefer, and everyone had their own opinion.I know you are not trying to sell me anything, I am just trying to understand the process. When we accelerate weight shifts to the rear - this is physics, I am trying to reconcile in my own head how having a softer spring at the rear helps transfer this weight shift to the tire and ground - it seems intuitive to me that a softer spring would reduce the pressure transmitted to the tire by absorbing some of it before it gets to the tire. Please dont think I am trying to be argumentative if I am coming off that way please forgive me - I just would like a technical explanation as to how having that softer spring helps instead of hurting.
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can I change the oil in my sling without lifting it?
If so any pointers to make it easier
My dealer is over an hour away and I would love to do it at home, but being as low as it is I am not sure if I can easily get to the drain plug without lifting. My F-150 was easy to get under to the drain plug, but it wasnt 4 inches off the ground
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Tank you Rob. What you want is the rear to squat and help transfer the power to the pavement. The stock shocks are so stiff that they will rattle your teeth out. If you do not get the back to squat then you are not moving the weight to the rear tire which will assist with traction. My personal opinion is the first mod every new Slingshot owner should perform is replacing the terribly stiff stock shocks.
I am not sure I agree - the weight shifting to the rear is happening weather the car "squats" or not. the weight transfer is a function of acceleration. To me it would seem that a stiffer shock in the back would actually force this weight transfer to increase the down force on the rear wheel which would improve traction where as a soft shock would actually soften the downward pressure on the rear wheel as it would be absorbed by the shock and not transferred to the ground. It seems to me that a softer shock causing the car to "squat" to the rear more is actually a sign that the shock is lessening the downward pressure put on the rear wheel.
As a side note I just did some investigative research and Top fuel Dragsters, which clearly would want the maximum traction, don't even have rear shocks or for that matter any suspension at all - if soft shocks helped weight transfer to the rear you would thing they would want this advantage
