Posts by BKL

Like I posted over on TDS, I liked the article because it was positive about our forces and it was written by a fellow service-member form a foreign service.

Sine you evidently already are running a turbo, I'd email Bob from MEFIburn and ask what he thinks. I'd be concerned about unexpected influences on the ECU's feeding of the fuel system. Better safe, than sorry.

@KayTwo, I see what you meant now. Thanks.

Quote from KayTwo

You know you can delete the post, right? It's a click box under the edit option.

I was actually looking for a Delete option, but didn't find one. I did what I did in case someone had read my post and was trying to find it again.
I just tried editing the post and found an option to trash the post, but nothing marked Delete Post.

I posted this over on TDS, but felt it should be here, as well.

Here is the first paragraph of the article from inmilitary.com -
Recently, we stumbled upon a French newspaper that had an op-ed from a French soldier that had served with US soldiers and marines in Afghanistan. His appraisal of U.S. servicemembers is gushing with praise; so much so that many commentators claim that this is simply a propaganda piece by U.S. interests. The debate continues! We invite the reader to decide for yourself.

A French Soldier's View of US Soldiers in Afghanistan - In Military

Update - The 10th Anniversary Cobra Style Black 17x10.5 +28 Wheel I ordered from American Muscle ($150 delivered) was delivered yesterday afternoon.
As explained in the first pic, I think the wheel pattern is enough like the Base Slingshot wheel pattern that if I repaint the Slingshot front wheels Gloss Black and also repaint the shiny rim of the AM wheel, I think the two different patterns will work together, allowing me to mount a 315/35R17 Nitto 555 G2 tire on the rear while maintaining compatibility with the speedo and safety systems, while saving over $100 compared to buying a 295/30R18 tire that is the largest tire I can fit on the original Base 18x9.5 wheel.

As the second pic shows, the AM wheel has a significantly larger interior diameter (just under 15.75" for rotor/caliper clearance) than the 17x7 front wheel from my Slingshot (15.25") and much more clearance than the OE Wheel 17x10.5 I originally tried and (barely 1/16" clearance between the caliper and the wheel). The fourth pic shows the clearance around the caliper with the AM Wheel mounted on the rear of my Slingshot.
The only concern about this approach is the fact that the AM wheel is +28 offset compared to the Slingshot rear wheel's +45 offset. This will cause the mounted tire to be a little off-center (see my approximation in the third pic), but I don't anticipate any other problems.
I still haven't ordered the tire as I can not return the wheel once I mount a tire on it. I plan on test-fitting the wheel on my Slingshot later today.

Deleted as I posted this in the wrong thread. Moved to Wheel/Tire question for Base Slingshot

Not really. It all comes down to whether or not you like the sound. That is really the most important factor when dealing with speakers, costs and sound.
Here is what A quick Google search found -
- People also ask
What is a coaxial speaker?
Coaxial speakers in automobiles are 2- or 3-way loudspeakers in which the tweeter, or the tweeter and a mid-range driver, are mounted in front of the woofer, partially obscuring it. The advantage of this design is the ability to use a smaller area, hence their popularity in car audio.

Coaxial loudspeaker - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_loudspeaker
Search for: What is a coaxial speaker?- What is a component speaker system?
However, component speaker systems (also called "separates") allow you to lift your music to your dash by separating the woofers and the tweeters. Components deliver realistic sound with outstanding imaging in the car, making them the choice of serious audio enthusiasts.

What are component car speakers? - Crutchfield

http://www.crutchfield.com/ISE…learn/learningcenter/.../speakers_component.html
Search for: What is a component speaker system?- What is a two way speaker system?
a 2-way speaker has one woofer for lower frequencies and one tweeter for higher frequencies. A 3-way speaker divides the frequency range into 3 parts with a woofer for lower frequencies, mid-range for middle frequencies and tweeter for high frequencies.

Best Buy Car Speakers : Questions, Answers, How To, FAQs ...

reviews.bestbuy.com/answers/3545/category/abcat0302005/questions.htm?sort...
Search for: What is a two way speaker system?- What is a midrange in a speaker?
A mid-range speaker is a loudspeaker driver that reproduces sound in the frequency range from approximately 300 to 5000 Hz. It is also known as a squawker. Mid-range drivers are usually cone types or, less commonly, dome types, or compression horn drivers.

Mid-range speaker - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mid-range_speaker
Search for: What is a midrange in a speaker?
The one situation I would say can make a significant difference is if you are using a dual-cone speaker instead of a two-way, as dual-cone speakers are definitely a way of cheaping out since, unlike a true two-way co-axial speaker, the dual-cone approach uses a single magnet to drive what is essentially a single speaker, but tries to use the dual cones to produce two different ranges of frequencies. A true two-way coaxial speaker should always produce better sound than a dual-cone speaker.
Generally speaking, component speakers will generally have a little better sound since each component specializes in a limited frequency range. A coaxial speaker also uses separate components, but usually minimizes them for a more compact fit in the space typically occupied by a single speaker, but can still produce good sound. Choosing components vs coaxials really comes down to how much space you have and how much money you want to spend. Again, the final sound is the determining factor. In the case of side pods, they generally don't have space to use separate components and coaxials make perfect sense in that application.

Quote from MACAWS

Look at my build thread I think it was the last post - might explain better

OK. Thanks. I haven't really looked at other folk's builds. Just looked. I originally thought about cutting up the lower wing to keep the box in the center, but I think that approach woulds till require the cross bar support. I need to take a closer look at my Slingshot. A simple metal box that I can attach to the frame, probably using the lower wing mounting points should do everything i need, once I add some intake protection to guard against stuff larger than a small insect from going in there.

Quote from MACAWS

@BKL if you are running a splitter I can show you how to use the original radiator shroud to do just what you are looking for.

Not sure what you mean by "splitter," as I was thinking about removing ALL of the lower wing as shown in the 1st picture and also removing the crossbar that provides additional support to the wing assembly.
Got any pics?

Quote from WraithSS

Wouldn't you want something to protect the radiator?

Yes. I've been thinking about trying to duplicate the size of the ducting portion of the stock lower wings that directs air into the radiator/intercooler area.

Having had a wild hog run in front of me at night and also having seen a wild hog lying on the road that had been hit by a vehicle, that bumper might be what I should have, but I was thinking more along the line of just the top portion running along the curves of the hood.

I think we can place the blame for all of the stripped fasteners we find on our Slingshots to the assemblers who have probably been forced by the Polaris bean counters to use power-tools to speed up the assembly process and they can't take the time to make sure the darned fastener is properly started before tightening it down.

I was wondering what the Slingshot would look like without the Front wing assembly, but was too lazy to actually take it off to see how it looked. I started a thread about this over on TDS. My problem is I seem to constantly need to adjust my front lower wing after hitting small animals/objects/debris during my rides and I'm getting tired of looking at it when it needs adjusting which seems to be just about all of the time.
I've been thinking about removing the entire lower wing(s) assembly and replacing it with either nothing or some type of metal rod bumper/push-bar assembly, or just leaving it naked and w/o the lower support bar still showing in @Thomas Sleight's picture above. I would like some type of grill protection for the radiator/intercooler area, though.
Anybody already done this? Pics? Ideas?

Quote from MACAWS

OK so I have been crazy jealous every time I see a picture of Rabtech sling up on his lift. Since he is the king of great deals and I can never get any deals I started hunting for a lift. I had seen a post on the dark side about the QuickJack 3500 which was reasonably prices and there were a few people who said they were using them. I was talking to Rabtech about them and he mentioned to check and make sure it would reach from the front to the rear and hit both jack points. Sure enough as always he was 100% correct as the 3500 is too short but the QuickJack 5000 looks like it would be perfect. Unfortunately it is $500 more. I am looking at this style because it is completely portable and I can carry it in my trailer and not have it permanently positioned in one spot in my shop.

So here is a link to the lift - I would love to get comments from my fellow slingers http://www.garageautoequipment…-5000SLX-p/bl-5000slx.htm

I know this thread started quite a while back, but I wouldn't have a problem using a piece of 2x or 4x to bridge the entire distance from the front and rear jack points. I haven't actually checked, but I would assume that the Slingshot's tubular frame would be resting on top of the 2x or 4x material and would therefore be receiving solid support along its entire length and would therefore be unlikely to break. This approach would allow the 3500 model to be used and save some money for other mods. If it makes you feel better, you could also add some 2x angle iron along each side of the board as additional reinforcement.

I've been running a 1900x1200 24"screen for years. I like as much vertical display as possible. The past year or so I've been successfully resisting (at least so far) the bug to buy a 4K monitor and either a new display card or building a complete new system! My current i7-2600K-based system is going on 5 years old, but I still don't feel the performance gain of moving to the new i7-6700K would be worth the cost.

Quote from Tripod

Correct, @BKL. Slingshot wheel lugs are 12 x 1.25

Thanks, That's the size I ordered.

OK. Just wondering as I ordered new lug nuts based on the Discount Tire rep's info and now I'm wondering if I got the right stuff. Can't find the new lug nuts amidst the mess in my garage, so I'll have to wait until I find them.

@BONES, I noticed the tire/wheel info you posted showed 12x1.5 lug nuts and locks. Did you change your studs? I ask because over on TDS the Discount Tire rep posted the Slingshot has 12x1.25 lug nuts.

I'm spending way TOO much time on this forum and the old one between waiting for the recall to get done and trying to find an affordable wider rear wheel for when I finally get my turbo installed.