Posts by BKL

    I didn't see it and if he did I'm sorry @BKL just thought it was so nice I wanted to make sure everyone seen it.


    RNJ12

    Full credit goes to rnj12 for posting this. I post similar stories when I find them, but rnj12's post was the first time I saw this one. Like Tripod wrote, Great story!

    I currently have a 2016 SL LE with a Bullet Speed canvas top installed. I am looking for some feedback on the F4 5" over stock windshield from owners. I would like to know if it will fit with my Bullet Speed canvas top? I also would like to hear from someone with this same setup as to how it works in the rain? Thanks in advance for any and all responses.

    Check with F4 as I believe they offer special models to properly clear certain Tops. Beware that the taller windshields may also bring some exhaust fumes depending on your exhaust configuration. F4 was offering a modified Honda Gold Wing windshield vent for improved airflow.

    For 3-season or year-round use,consider the Nitto Motivo (Motivo All-Season Ultra High Performance Tire). The Motivo is an AS UHP tire with a 60,000 mile warranty (probably 30,000 on the Slingshot since the rear tire isn't rotated, but the fronts could be for the 60,000 mile warranty). It has a 560 A A rating compared to the 320 AA A rating for the 555 G2 and has higher ratings for wet traction, comfort and quietness, with the 555 G2 only a little better for dry traction. Costs/sizes are similar for the two tires. Since the Motivo is technically an asymmetric tire, some folks may not like it on the rear. I'm getting ready to put Motivos on the front and a 315/35 555 G2 on the rear. Once I see how the two tires wear, I may go with the Motivo on the rear when I have to replace the 555 G2.

    Here's a link to both Rural King and Optima Group 34 battery sizes and they're very close to the Slingshot battery dimensions - Better Battery..., Post # 105. Both of those batteries fit the Slingshot original battery tray and so should the Pep Boys battery.
    I haven't used my battery since June and when I put the battery on a charger yesterday, it showed up as still having 65% charge. I'll know if I need to order a new battery in a couple days when I hopefully start my Slingshot. At that sale price, I may just buy it anyway since my original battery is getting older. The Texas heat seems to reduce battery life to around 2 years or so.

    Damn it... Now I'm definitely getting the rings... Where do I find the information on the wheels I have? Mickey Thompson SC-5 18x9s and 20x10.5?

    Contacting the manufacturer or store you bought them from is the best way to get accurate wheel hub sizing info. The Slingshot has 66.1 mm hubs so that's the inside diameter you need along with whatever outside diameter your wheels need.

    Bingo. Order the right size.


    I only posted those diameters because they were the first metal hub centric rings that popped up on a google.


    I ordered mine in late 2014 and ordered the wrong size. Luckily being off by 1mm on the bore side doesn't really matter.

    I ran into the same size conundrum when I was researching what size hub-centric rings to order. I definitely would have preferred metal rings If I could have found them.

    My Thanks to Dave@DDMWorks for his pm response. I also wish to offer my thanks to all who have offered their help/comments on my situation.


    Here's a status update on what I hope to do -


    My current plan is to use DIY pre-luber (connected via the turbo oil feed line) to force oil under pressure through the engine and hopefully ensure oil is in the engine's internal oil lines and that the oil pump is primed. Before starting the engine, I then plan on removing the spark plugs so the starter can crank the engine more easily and use the process Dave@DDMWorks (Post 2, above) and rabtech (Post 1, paragraph 3, above) have suggested to see if oil is actually being circulated thru the engine. If I then see evidence of oil circulation, I should be good to go. If I do NOT see any evidence of oil being pumped thru the engine, I will know that I need to access the oil pump to check its prime/proper operation or remove all of the turbo plumbing so I can pull the pan again and check for a tight oil intake tube join to the pan as well as a tight seal between the oil pan and the block before reinstalling the turbo equipment.

    If you order hub-centric rings, make sure you order the correct size. I personally prefer metal hub-centric rings, but couldn't find the size I need in metal, so I ended up with plastic.


    This is not meant as a criticism of TravAz, I just don't want someone to click the link and order the incorrect size assuming the link is what they needed. IIRC, when I searched Amazon, I almost ordered the wrong size. Amazon Search returned - "We found 0 results for "66.1 mm inside diameter hub rings to 70.3 mm outside diameter hub rings" Use fewer keywords or try these instead" and then listed hits that matched either set of numbers. Easy to order the wrong size if you're not careful. In his above post, TravAz mentions uisng 73.1 mm outside diameter hub-centric rings for wheels to fit the 66.1 mm inside diameter for the Slingshot hubs. Unfortunately, the Amazon link goes to 67.1 mm inside diameter rings, not the 66.1 mm he referred to in his post. Since the hub-centric rings he linked to are metal, the difference in size may be OK, but I would definitely try to be as exact as possible if the rings are made of plastic. I ordered my plastic rings from JustForWheels.com and ordered 66.1 mm ID and 70.4 mm OD which fit snugly on the axle hub.
    Here's a link to JustForWheels' explanation on hub-centric rings - Understanding how Hub Centric Rings work - JustForWheels.com.

    Okay, and what do the hub centric rings give me? Are they a requirement for the tire to fit, or just play matchy-match lookwise with the stock? My lack of information is generally why I stay in the peanut gallery.... :00008862:

    If you look at your drake disc, you should see a small lip on the axle inside the circle formed by the lug bolts. That lip should be the same diameter as the opening in the center of the wheel and aligns the wheel with the axle, ensuring the wheel is properly centered so it will roll smoothly. Hub-centric rings are used when a wheel has a center opening larger than the lip on the axle and match the center hole diameter of the wheel, securely holding the wheel centered against the axle. While it IS possible to mount wheels w/o using hub-centric rings, it is not advisable as you are then relying solely on the lug nuts to keep the wheel tightly centered to the brake disc instead of the axle and it is possible for the wheel to be mounted slightly off-center with respect to the axle and may cause noticeable vibration as you drive.

    I also would not recommend mounting a wheel with a smaller center opening than the lip on the brake drum as that can result in a wheel which is not securely mounted flat against the brake disc with the wheel being held against the edge of the lip instead of making uniform contact with the surface of the brake disc, possibly introducing undesirable handling impacts.

    okay, so what offset am I looking for... 45mm?

    Trying to figure out spacers and their impact on wheel offset/centering of the wheel is a PITA.
    The Slingshot's rear wheel offset is + 45 mm. If the wheel you buy is less than that, you either need to live with it or find a new wheel. Here's an example where someone bought wheels with 40 mm offset - Do tire spacers do anything to the Wheel Offset?. In this case, adding a 10 mm spacer actually has the effect of reducing the offset to 30 mm. The offset and backspace numbers for the wheel do NOT change, but the effect of adding a spacer shifts the wheel further out compared to where the wheel was located before the spacer was added.

    When I click on the Pep Boys site it will only let me shop in stores in Houston and Spring, TX..... They are building one in Michigan City, IN ( 5 miles from me--not open yet) and planning on in La Porte, IN (5 miles in the other direction...none closer than 75 miles at this point. Thanks for the info.

    That may be inherent in the Pep Boys link I copied for the Spring, TX area. I know Pep Boys has other locations.

    Dead battery...going to pull it out shortly and see if I can get one locally....
    Did somebody mention a Walmart Battery that would work in the Slingshot?

    Nemesis1701 mentioned a Wal-Mart battery for $50 that fits the 2015 Slingshot. Would probably need an adapter for Slingshots with the new, smaller battery. See - Better Battery..., Post # 113 & 116.
    Technically, I believe the Slingshot battery is supposed to be a Group 34 size and that Wal-Mart battery is a Group 65. Nemessis1701 says it fits, though. The Group 65 at $50 has a 1 yr warranty. Wal-Mart also has a 3-yr warranty battery for $110 - 16795235. Both batteries are rated 660 CCA.
    If you're near a PepBoys, they have a Bosch AGM Group 34 battery with 4-yr warranty for $134 - Bosch Platinum Series AGM Battery Group, Size 34 | 838883 | Pep Boys.

    A year or so again, during a night ride, a deer ran across the road in front of, followed by a fawn suddenly jumping up from where it was hiding in roadside grass and jump right in front of me. Hit it with my right front tire/wheel and killed it good. Felt sorry for the doe standing on the other side waiting for it to cross the road.

    Would the combination of the wing and shade put too much stress on the hoops

    Just looking at the hoops/Top/Wing, I wouldn't think so as the hoops are designed to support the Slingshot in the event of a rollover. In that event, I don't think the top or the wing would have much impact on the hoops as I'd expect the Top or the wing/brackets to either deform or break. If the top remained intact, I'd think the larger contact area presented by the Top's perimeter frame would lessen strain on the hoops. During normal operation, I would expect any stresses placed on the hoops by the Top/Wing to be much less than the impact force the hoops are supposed to be designed to handle.

    The funny thing about all this is it sounds like the problem lies with a Twist Dynamics product. Just to try and clarify, is TD refusing to fix their evidently poor design or is the problem with Slingshotonly? As a retailer of TD products, you'd think it wouldn't be that hard for Slingshotonly to tell TD to try and fix the problem or get dropped as a supplier.

    If I sold a business, I'd want to try and include language in the sale contract to require fulfillment of existing warranties. I would expect the buyer to factor possible warranty costs as part of the offer. If I were buying a business, I'd expect to see the books so I could know what warranty returns, among other things, have been costing. A few years ago, my Wife and I declined to purchase a used book store (a dream we have long shared). The owner didn't offer a look at their books, but a quick glance at an expense/profit statement told us it was not a viable proposition, The eventual buyer was out of business a little over a year later.


    While I was still working, several of us in the office used to frequent a Chinese restaurant that was eventually sold to a new owner. The new owner did such a poor job running the restaurant the original owners bought it back to save their good name. It was quickly restored to its previous popularity.

    Still, if a business is sold and continues doing business under the same name, I'd expect them to honor warranties from the original business, especially if the product was manufactured by another business that is still manufacturing the product in question.