Sounds like he 
s it! 
Posts by BKL
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What @Orangeman said!
Personally, I replaced my factory angle drive fluid with Redline Heavy Shockproof which seemed to at least partially quiet the noise. Others have used Royal Purple, Amsoil or whatever brand they prefer or just added a lot of their favorite lube additive with varying results. Try searching for angle drive noise to see what folks have done.
In some ways, I feel tires can make as much difference in the noise level as anything else. -
I am talking about the ones that kept self destructing due to a chemical imbalance in the compound, what ever happened after they self destroyed is irrelevant for the purpose of this conversation .
Point taken. I have to admit that I don't know if the two issues were connected or not as I don't remember hearing about Firestone tires having what would definitely have to be considered a design flaw.
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I have Motivos on the front of my Slingshot now. No complaints. As the chart above shows, the Motivo rates better than the 555 G2 for life, wet road performance, noise and comfort, but it is rated slightly less capable on dry roads compared to the 555 G2. Given the Slingshot's willingness to hydroplane and the Motivo's overall ratings, I think I will probably try one next time.
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Ok I will give this a try but i don't expect much.
It is a fact that sport(performance) tires accomplish their higher stickiness by having a softer compound that due to its softness shreds easily, so what do you think will happen if you have a big meaty tire made of very soft compound?Here is a hint, firestone found out back in the early 2000s when they tried it on their SUV tires.......
If you're referring to the Explorer roll-over fiasco, I still feel that apart of the problem was with Ford's design of a relatively tall Explorer compared to its width and managed to shift most of the blame onto Firestone. Just my opinion and that's worth exactly what I just got paid to post it!
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So far, I've been reasonably happy with the 555 G2. I can still spin it, but it looks like I should hopefully get about the same mileage from my 315/35ZR17 555 G2 as I got from the stock Kendas (around 10-11K miles). My only complaint is I'd like a little more life from a tire that costs about 2x what the stock Kendas cost. Miles per tire is the only reason I'd consider trying the Motivo since it has a much higher tread life rating and cost about the same as the 555 G2 in the same size. Of course, with the stresses placed on the Slingshot's rear tire, having almost 2x the tread life rating doesn't translate to 2x the mileage, but any additional life from a $250 tire is nice for my wallet as long as it still performs well. Looking at Nottos ratings above, the Motivo may be slightly more prone to spinning on dry pavement but should do a little better if I get caught on wet roads. Hopefully, @edwardaneal will post more on his experience with the Motivo before I need one.
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I'll never know for sure about the Kenda... I got my 2017 SLR with 2580 miles on it and the center was almost to the wear bars when I got it. But that's because all the tires had 40 PSI in them and that will wear the center section out fast on the slingshot. I get caught in rain sometimes quite often so I need a tire with good wet traction as well. The 555 G2 should be a good tire to go with for both wet and dry. I guess I'm gonna find out.
The only potential drawback for the Nitto Motivo vs the 555 G2 is the fact that the Motivo is an asymmetric tire. I've had an asymmetric tire on the rear and never noticed any handling issues, so I may try a Motivo when my 555 G2 needs replacing. Here's Nitto's rating info for both tires -
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Interesting look at F1 cars on normal roads -F1 Cars Are Woefully Ill-Equipped for US City Streets - Also a commercial for Red Bull.
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Why don’t you just set up a cot there?
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I thought he'd already spent enough $$ there to now be at least a part-owner!
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That brings up another question...does the rear swing arm have built in stops...like motorcycle handlebars?
Uh...The coilovers?
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The Germans actually made a rifle designed to shoot around corners during WWII. It just didn't have the extreme bend shown in the rifle above!
Krummlauf - Wikipedia
Forgotten Weapons: The Nazis' Desperate Attempts to Curve a Bullet -
@rabtech, just got the re-ordered stein that you felt wasn't the correct color. Decide for yourself.
Picture from store site -
I liked the color I originally received, so have any future test orders sent to yourself, please. Thanks for your efforts, but I am happy with what I have.
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Try using some double-stick foam tape so you can easily remove them if you don't like them.
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Hey @kev whats all involved in remiving the pan? Did you need a new gasket ir is it gasket maker paste type? Did you do it on a lift to make it easier
I was probably the last or one of the last to install Hahn's turbo kit using the oil pan return. I bought a pre-modded oil pan that already had the return oil bung welded in place. I actually used some instructions originally written for the Alpha turbo kit and modified by @Blitzkrieg from the old forum when I pulled the oil pan. See my post # 19708 here for more info - What was today's Sling project-Mods , goodies.....?. Basically, I had my Slingshot on jackstands and used a floorjack to lift the transmission and engine block so I could use some wood blocks under the engine mounts to hold the engine up while removing the oil pan.
Brass brushes and brake cleaner or gasket remover work best for removing the old gasket material. Some folks use metal scrapers, but I do NOT recommend that since it's all too easy to score the aluminum mating surfaces. You can safely use a plastic razor blade as a scraper (available from Amazon and other places). If you use spray brake cleaner, try spraying some in a small can and then use a cheap brush to apply the cleaner so you don't spray it all over the place. (That stuff will remove any paint it touches). Let the brake cleaner or gasket remover sit a little while to soften the gasket. Getting all of the gasket cleaner off the pan and block mating surfaces is definitely the worst part. Be sure to NOT touch the gasket material during re-installation or you may get a leak and need to pull, clean and replace the pan again! Don't ask me how I know this!
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My first Kenda on the rear was at 16,600 miles when I took it off, it was just down to the wear bars and I wanted a new tire for SSITS
on my 5th back tire in 68,000 miles. I also have three spares for the back right now Kenda, Raptor, and a Nexon
...and I thought I did well averaging 10000 miles on the rar Kendas! I'm hoping to get around 10-11000 miles on my current Nitto 555 G2 315 tire.
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Nothing mysterious about it: 2019 SS
BillThanks for the post. I had Googled many times in the past and against the Federal regulations looking for maximum motorcycle weight and variations on that w/o success to the point that I pretty much stopped looking. I also had totally forgotten @kev's rather clear explanation as to how the weight limit was calculated.
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I guess so @MiM sad to see no actual improvements we're done though.
Polaris seems to think a change in color is a significant improvement.
It seems the biggest obstacle to changes in the Slingshot is the "mysterious" weight limit Polaris has referred to, but none of us seems to have been able to find. I would certainly like to know more about it. -
Spray it with some WD40.
For some strange reason, I never thought of that and have just been putting up with it.
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No offense, but I think I preferred the pic of your surgeon!
I did say we'd settle for the good news! Life's a lot easier when you can keep a sense of humor.
