Posts by BKL

Quote from edwardaneal

Find a car that uses the size battery you want and then search by that car. Should pretty easy

Sent from my iPhone using Polaris Slingshot Info

Easy, IF you know a specific vehicle that uses the same battery/part/whatever. Unfortunately, most auto parts sites do not offer Polaris as a manufacturer, let alone include Slingshot as a model.

It bugs me when I want to look up info on a specific item and the site insists I use a roundabout method of finding the part. What can be more specific than entering item-specific details?

Once again, CostCO is offering the QuickJack 5000 on sale thru March 29 while supplies last -

https://www.costco.com/.product.100460313.html

Just found an email from Pep Boys saying 25% off select Champion & Bosch batteries and showing a pic of a Bosch AGM battery. Unfortunately, the website requires you to search by Vehicle Year Brand and Model and doesn't support the ability to search for a specific model.

Unfortunately, here in the Houston area, the summer heat is bad enough on batteries that I had to replace my Mazda CX-7 battery 3 times in 3 years. It was under warranty, but still made me wonder about the electrical system. Traded the Mazda in on my new 2013 Ford Edge and have had to replace the battery 2 times in just over 5 years of ownership.

I guess the Slingshot's rear battery mount helps battery life by keeping the battery away from engine heat.

I ordered my RK AGM34 battery when I first heard about it back in 2017, but my original large battery in my 2015 SLingshot kept working fine, so I just put the RK battery on the charger every few months. Now, the Slingshot battery is finally starting to drop below 11V when cranking, so I guess I'll swap in the RK AGM battery when I get around to figuring out what to do with my fuel pump, if that is the cause of my engine bogging down under acceleration.

Quote from funinthesun

Howdy. I'm not making any recommendations, but check out this link to an eBay add for the pump only (verified the part number). It might be worth the chance to try it out at the $70 price level since you're not even sure if that's the problem

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FPF-F…Sw2YZbx7A0&frcectupt=true

I was wondering if FPF was assuming their standard Polaris fuel pump would just fit the Slingshot, too. When I went to the EBay listing and actually tried to select 2015 Polaris Slingshot, no mater which model I picked, it said the listed part didn't fit.

Hopefully, FPF will respond to my email and answer my concerns about fit/use.

Per the 2015-17 Service manual, the fuel filters (2 of them) are a non-replaceable part of the fuel pump. Naturally, Polaris doesn't offer just the fuel pump as a replacement item.

I checked 6 Slingshot Parts sources and the best prices I found for the fuel pump assembly plus the fuel pump gasket was $418 from Cycle Parts Nation and Power Parts Plus, both of which operate from the same address in Kalamazoo, MI.

I also found that Fuel Pump Factory offers a replacement in-tank fuel pump for $80 shipped which I assume replaces the fuel pump portion of the Polaris fuel pump assembly. I emailed FPF asking if I could get a copy of the installation instructions to see if I wanted to attempt such a transplant myself.

Per the 2015-17 Service manual - 80% of all EFI problems are caused by wiring harness connections. It would be nice if things were as simple as checking the wiring connections, but I need to remove my Top, roll hoops and rear deck plastics to get to everything, not to mention finding the proper wrench to torque the fuel pump nut to 70 lb-ft. I've seen some wrenches online for between $17-66, but haven't found any with Polaris' specified nomenclature.

Guess I'll need to learn enough to figure out if I want to try it myself () or take the more expensive, easier way out of going to the dealer ($$$).

Thanks for the response. I'm afraid you're probably correct.

I was hoping the problem wouldn't be associated with the fuel pump/fuel system and for some silly reason I was ignoring the fact that gas floats on water, not the other way around.

I wasn't planning on visiting my dealer for another 3000 miles, but it looks like I'll probably need to make the 110 mile drive sooner than that. I guess I'll keep driving and for a while longer and then finally give my tow dolly I bought from AllThingsSlingshot last year a test-run to the dealer. There are several dealers here in the Houston area, but I've never developed a relationship/trust with any of them.

The transmission that GM offers with the Slingshot motor is known for a small percentage of the transmissions to have some problems, primarily related to shifting, IIRC. Just have your dealer check it while under warranty.

Overall, I like the general lines of that top. Personally, I think it looks more streamlined and suited to the Slingshot than Polaris' Slingshade. I don't know about the front supports as I can't envision them in my line of sight from the pics. The one portion of the top that does bother me is the extreme rear tilt of the roll hoops. I'd be concerned about its strength in the event of a rollover or vertical impact. If there was some type of forward support coming up to meet the rear tilt, I'd feel a lot better about it.

As far as it being the first ATV/UTV/off-road top replacing the roll hoops, I seem to recall someone else, probably a couple of years ago and probably on the old site, having a friend who specialized in that kind of work fab up a top that replaced the roll hoops. IIRC, that one was a chunkier design and not as streamlined as this top looks.

The last 2 rides, as my gas gauge got down to around 3-4 gallons left, my engine started bogging down, usually when accelerating at around 4000 rpm in 3rd or 4th gear. I had filled up after the last ride with what should have been a good Premium gas at Stripes (Sunoco) or Circle K (which sells Valero gas around here), both of which I've been using for a long time. The same bogging occurred during tonight's ride= when the tank got down to around 3-4 gallons. I stopped at Wal-Mart and bought a couple bottles of Heet gas antifreeze and added a bottle (Supposed to treat 20 gallons) to the 3 gallons or so left and tried driving home. At first, after adding the Heet, the Slingshot seemed to drive better, but then the bogging returned, now at slower rpms. It was bogging as low as 2500 rpms and it was almost impossible to accelerate to the speed limit. I limped to the nearest Valero that sells a lot of gas in hopes of finding some good gas and filled the tank. Pulled back out onto the Interstate and the Slingshot seemed to be running normally, so I tend to believe I did have some bad gas.

Would folks agree with me that I probably had some bad gas that somehow left some water in the bottom of the tank? Now for the $64 question - How can I dispose of the bad gas once I get the tank down to where it starts bogging again? Could I mix it with some old motor oil and turn it in at a local oil recycling spot (aka, local auto parts shop)?

After experiencing 2 instances of bogging, I'm not looking forward to going through this again and would like to get rid of whatever bad stuff is in the tank.

Quote from FunCycle

The stock 2016 battery is a Group 26. The Group 34 or the Group 25 both should be pulled all the way to the outside cover before you tighten them down. I have already said this about 25 times. I melted a hole all the way across the bottom of an Optima Group 25. By the way I did not do the install a friend did.

I don't know how I came up with the Group 24 number, but I remembered that someone had posted about using the Group 34 not working well with the Welter Dual exhaust.

Quote from BKL

I just Googled for group 24 battery and got a bunch of hits with batteries staring as low as around $100, delivered. I also checked Rural King's website and it looks like their batteries are now only available for in-store pickup.

I was thinking the 2015 battery was a Group 24, but I may incorrectly dismembered it. Please double-check battery sizes/fitment before ordering.

the Rural King Group 34 AGM battery I have is - 10-1.4" Long, 6-1/2" Wide/Deep and 7-7/8" Tall to top of Electrode posts.

Here's a link to Battery Group Dimensions on JEGS - https://www.jegs.com/Sizecharts/bcigroup.html for easy checking if a battery will fit.

From the chart -

Group # Length Width Height

24 10-1/4 6-13/16 8-7/8

26 8-3/16 6-13/16 7-3/4

34 10-1/4 6-13/16 7-7/8

Keep in mind that Welter performance Dual owners have posted that group 34 batteries may touch up against a the trans tunnel exhaust pipe and recommend Group 26 batteries for clearance, IIRC.

I just Googled for group 24 battery and got a bunch of hits with batteries staring as low as around $100, delivered. I also checked Rural King's website and it looks like their batteries are now only available for in-store pickup.

Quote from See Lion

[/quote]

<p>Thanks for the info Kev. But I'm planning on towing forward. I have already test fitted the SS on the tow dolly and have removed the belt by jacking the rear end up. I did discover that I need to remove the bottom bolt to the shock, no big deal. I also had to build my own "pre" ramps to drive onto the dolly. Again no biggy there either. But I do thank you for your input and expertise in towing backwards.</p>
<p><br></p>
<p>Sent from my SM-T350 using <a href="http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=89765">Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app</a></p>
[/quote]Also I have the Corbin saddle bags which would present a problem in Towing backwards.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app

Back in August 2014, I contacted Polaris about towing using an A-frame attached to the front of the Slingshot or using a tow dolly and they replied that the Slingshot should only be transported on a flatbed trailer/tow truck.

By February 2015, the first rear wheel tow dolly had been designed and used by a Slingshot owner (@Ribrunner on www.slingshot forums.com, aka The Dark Side). Since then, several other owners have built their own tow dollyies, each of which has been designed to minimize the chances of dragging the lower front wing. @kev's tow dolly represents a combination of the best of the existing designs. I bought one myself.

Typical conventional tow dollies, designed to hold the front wheels of the towed vehicle, may have clearance problems with the lower front wing and also will likely place increased loads on the rear wheel & swing-arm, possibly causing problems.

Good Luck with whatever you end up trying and post your experiences.

Quote from chavey2

BTW, what's with it being just the TX people up late?

It's not just Texas. Before I retired as an Army Civilian Intelligence Analyst, the Wife and I lived in Northern Virginia & typically stayed up until close to 0100 even though we had to get up at 0600 to get the kids and ourselves ready for school and work. Now that we're retired, we both typically go to bed around 0300, read for another few hours and then get up sometime between Noon and 1400. At least we now tend to get 8-10 hours sleep. Nothing beats a customized schedule! The only thing I dislike about getting up so late is I don't like the shortened work day when trying to do stuff outside since I don't want to disturb the neighbors after dark.

Keep in mind that if you have a Welter Performance exhaust that goes thru the transmission tunnel, a Group 34 battery may not fit properly and will hit the exhaust, IIRC. A Group 26 battery should clear the exhaust pipe.

I bought one of the Rural King batteries back in late 2017 and had it shipped. The sale price at the time was around $100-130, IIRC. I have seen Pep Boys advertise a Bosch AGM battery that looks identical to the RK battery. PB normally sells the Bosch battery for close to $200, but every now and then has offered it for around $150 or a little less. Unfortunately, I don't know if PB still carries it.

As far as mounting a larger battery on the newer models equipped for the 400A motorcycle type battery, I'd think it shouldn't be too hard to make a new battery mount from 1/8" aluminum plate and bolt it to the existing battery platform with some flat-head bolts. I'd also recommend adding a small lip or a couple pieces of aluminum angle to help keep the battery from sliding. The battery could then be held down either with a metal bracket or a rubber or leather strap. I admit I haven't looked at the battery area in a while, so I'm going from memory.

If, as someone already posted, a longer battery cable is needed, I think an Auto shop can help fab one if you can't find the proper length.

After reading about exhaust smells, I was researching high-flow cats and came across this video about a guy going to pick-up his new-to-him modded Slingshot. The first few seconds shows him briefly hydroplane/skid, but the video cuts out. The first half or so of the video is pretty much driving to pick it up, followed by driving back to his shop int he rain. Starting around 20:00 minutes is his wrap-up about the ride and then he learns the rain has stopped and the sun is out!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-MeTTbeGOI&t=1216s

Quote from Ruptured Duck

It will be interesting to see what does change. The real question will be if these parts can be swapped onto the older SS. Don't expect Polaris to offer these parts as I'm sure they want you to trade in on the new model. They are in the business of selling SS not upgrades.

Yes, Polaris wants to sell additional Slingshots, but they will be required to supply repair parts, so we should have access to new body panels, etc. Of course, Polaris doesn't need to price any new parts affordably!

Quote from HB45

I would like to know if anyone has a shift light, since supercharging my sling it revs pretty fast and I would like an indicator to help with shifting. summit and jags both have a lot to choose from. any help would welcome.

Sounds like you've already SC'd your ride. What Boost/AFR gauge(s) are you using as some like the Innovate SCG-1 or PSB-1 have a built-in shift light. I believe AEM offers similar functionality i some of their products.

If you don't have a Boost or AFR or combo gauge, while they aren't as necessary on a SC system compared to a TC system, I'd recommend one of the combo AFR/Boost gauges and if you want a shift light, I'd look for a setup that includes that capability.

Looking at the stand-alone shift light units, none of the less expensive units seems to have decent reviews, so it might make sense to go with a name brand all-in-one gauge to get reliable functionality. I'd also recommend going with a unit that offers a data-logging capability since that can be a great help if you ever run into fueling problems. Now that I've written that, I must mention that my Innovate SCG-1 AFR/Boost gauge seems to have developed a short in the sensor cabling since the AFR reading sometimes freezes or doesn't display, even though the Boost display has continued to work.

Quote from War Hoop

AMEN! That's the ticket. Hey maybe they could tie up an employee and throw them into an active volcano as a sacrifice to the motorcycle gods, that would be cool.

Would it help if the employee's name is Joe (after the movie "Joe and the Volcano)?