Posts by Toobad4u

Quote from kenny_h

It usually ends up being expensive!

Yeah, I keep telling myself that's why I didn't start a build thread. Lol.

Stephen

I finally got all the hoses back on after changing to silicone. Filled with fluid and fired it up. Took a while to get up to temp. Finally after about 15 minutes of steady idle it reached 212. Fan kicked on just as it did previously. Once it cooled down to 195 it shut off just like before. The temp dropped just as fast as before so I do not think the shroud hinders airflow at all. When the fan kicked on, I was sitting in my slingshot and could not feel any unwanted hot air coming through the firewall where as before you could feel it instantly when the fan kicked on.
Overall I think this shroud is a positive step in the right direction to help keep the passenger compartment cooler. I do not think it is the end all, be all solution, but this paired with the other known options that are available, this could become a more comfortable ride.
I can't see where it would have any negative effects on actual engine temp ad these motors are designed to run in thr range listed above. Only drawback is that now the hot air is directed straight onto the steering rack. I'm not sure if this will create any issues down the road as there will usually be other airflow around it at most times.

Stephen

Quote from p120ud213azn

get a grom!!

I just bought a Grom a month ago. Fun little bike.
I'm sure it is considerably cheaper than the new hoverboard think in the video.

Stephen

So are you feeding your gauge off the same port? If not your gauge will always be reading a lower psi than the turbo is actually generating. I would think you would want those two to be accurate to each other if possible.

Stephen.

You have the hose going from the turbo housing to the wastegate? Mine runs from the fitting on the intake to the wastegate. Wonder what the actual difference in psi feeding the wastegate is depending on where the line us getting its air from. Would your wastegate think it's getting a higher psi than the motor is actually getting since you lose boost with every bend and going through the intercooler?
Where is everyone tapping in to feed the wastegate? Thanks,
Stephen

You posted as in the console but your description of location would suggest the outer plastic piece of the interior. Drivers left and passenger right. I took console as the transmission tunnel area. Drivers right and passengers left.

Stephen

I thought you were talking about the console area. I was referring to the trans tuned area in my post.
The outer area I'm not sure about. I think it might go behind the area of the black textured fender. If you search some on the installation of the heat management foam from Polaris that comes with the shroud. I saw a post somewhere that had that plastic completely removed.

Stephen

I think Stunna Man on the Facebook forum has speakers in that location. If I come across his pic again soon ill post it up for you.

Stephen

Can you turn off the auto subscribe for when you post in a thread?

Thanks,
Stephen

You guys better be careful. She is a moderator on this forum. LOL

Stephen

Quote from Orangeman

Nice installation write up ...... do you have a coolant temperature gauge ?

With others seeing a significant rise in coolant/engine temperature during low speed or stopped operation on NA Slingshots I am curious how the addition of an inter-cooler in front of the radiator further restricting airflow to the radiator works out .....

.

I do have a temp gauge on mine. Once I get my other parts back I will compare it to the days of old. Granted mine would run aproxinmately 180° while driving but would run up to 212° after sitting at a red light for a couple minutes. The fan would then kick on and the temp would immediately start dropping to about 194° and then turn off. I figure that is about normal operating range. I have had it holding at 163° for hours though when the outside temp was 60° and I was traveling 70mph toward Tampa.
If it gets to 212° and the fan can bring it down some from there, i think everything will be fine with engine temps.

Stephen

Yeah @roadog1aj I had trouble with the bolts too, but as soon as I used something to align one of the holes, the other bolt went right in. Then the same on the other side. Weren't you going to try a different fan switch sensor? How did that work out, or have you not done it yet?

Stephen

I am excited to know I am going cross country with some great people in the Three's Da Life crew from Florida to California. I was hoping to do the complete trek, but only have so much time off work without it falling apart. So I and another sling will be coming back through Vegas where our wives will be joining us for the ride back home.
My brother will be riding to California with me and I am planning on dropping him off with some of his friends near Los Angeles. He will be catching a flight back home.
Should be a great time had by all, so if you can make even one day riding with the group you should do it.

Stephen

As far as I know @StickerDick will be coming in on Friday afternoon. Will be a good time for sure.

Stephen.

The hood is only 4 bolts and it goes back on exactly in the spot it was when removed.
Honestly you could probably do it with the hood on as long as there is enough room height wise to get the radiator out. Just more difficult to get to the areas.

Stephen.

@funinthesun. Here is an option for the install. I won't know how or if it helps yet as mine is still apart for a bit.

Stephen

I just finished up the install of the new radiator shroud from Polaris. The factory instructions call to remove the hood, air box, and then unbolt the front subframe so you can remove the factory aluminum crossmember that holds the radiator. This last part involves removing bolts with nuts on the other side. Mine must have been installed by a gorilla at the factory and with the common hand tools I was using it just wasn't going to happen. I looked for an option to get past this step and came up with one.
Note: the following procedure will cost you an additional $10-$15 to do but it was definitely easier.
After removing hood and air box, remove both radiator hoses and small hose on the top right of the radiator. ( if you have a turbo, remove your intercooler tubes. Be sure to cover the holes well as you don't want to drop anything in it.)
Now unbolt the fan from the radiator. Be sure to unplug the fan as you will be feeding the connector through the hole in the shroud later.
Using the same 10mm as you did for the fan you can unbolt the two bolts and nuts that hold the radiator to the aluminum crossmember.
Next carefully slide the radiator out the top, followed by the fan assembly.
Grab your new shroud and gently, but forcibly slide it down under the aluminum crossmember. Because of my Hahn intercooler, I had to slightly bend the shroud to get it past it. This is no problem as the shroud is pretty flimsy plastic and comes back to shape immediately.
Next slide the fan in and sit it in the new shroud followed by the radiator. Route the electrical plug through the hole at this time. The radiator has two alignment dowels that must sit back in their appropriate rubber bushings in the lower crossmember. You can visually inspect this from the front without jacking it up.
Reattach the radiator to its bracket using the stock nuts and bolts you removed earlier.
Now the fun part, I reused the stock bolts to attack the shroud and fan combination to the radiator. After about 5 minutes of not getting any back in their hole I thought of a little trick which worked out perfectly. I used a small Phillips head screwdriver to help align one of the holes so I could get the bolt started in the other. This worked like a champ as I had all 4 bolts done in about 3 minutes after that. I snugged them down accordingly.
Next you will need to plug in the radiator fan.
And finally you can reinstall your radiator hoses, air intake or intercooler pipes, followed by the hood.
Last step is to refill your cooling system and let it run to get up to temp and get the air out of the system.
I think I got it all in this write up. If you have any questions feel free to ask. I personally haven't finished the last part of the install as I am installing all new radiator hoses later this week.
Once I figure out why my pics aren't loading I will post the ones I took while installing.

Stephen

Thanks Painter for posting this. I'll be removing a few panels for some mods soon and this will help immensely. Can't wait to meet you at SSITS. Your contribution is what will help make this forum the true place for "Slingshot Info".

Stephen.

Quote from rabtech

Repost that picture. I changed how it handles picture.

nope. Still all black.

• Saw this in another forum, lol. Figure I would try it myself. Pretty easy since there is already a line to cut on molded in the factory guard. I used an angle grinder with a cutting wheel on it to make easy work of the big chunk, then put on a flapper wheel to fine tune it to the line. Turned out great in my opinion and personally looks better seeing the whole sprocket. Would look good with a hub lock on there I'm sure. I bought a trim panel push pin to go in the unused hole at the bottom. I cut it down to only about 1/4" was in the hole.

Stephen
Not sure why my pic won't show up now. I posted a couple last night with no problem.