Posts by Garrett Taguchi

    After a very quick glance at that website, I'd say you could find a decent system for between $500 - $800. You could even go cheaper, but at the sacrifice of video editing speed. Personally, I'd prefer a display in the 1920x1080 range, followed by the 1600x900. I'd recommend a system with at least a Quad-core AMD CPU or an Intel I5 or i7 CPU. Generally, AMD CPUs will be less powerful compared to Intel CPUs. An easy way to see what Intel CPU an AMD CPU is equivalent to is to copy the full AMD CPU name listed for the laptop and then do a Google search for "AMD CPU NAME Intel CPU equivalent" to see its corresponding Intel CPU. Here's an example - AMD A-Series Dual-Core A9-9420 Processor Intel CPU equivalent

    Wow.. Thanks for the info... Well at this point I think any new laptop will be an upgrade from what I currently have... I'm willing to spend around a grand if it will mean I will be happy with it for another 7 years or so... If it weren't for video editing, my current laptop would still be perfectly fine for what I need... But now I got kids, taking a lot of HD video with the gopro and phone, so an upgrade is definitely necessary

    So my lease is up on my Lexus SUV next June... I was hoping to purchase the model 3, but turns out I won't be able to purchase one until late 2018 since I never reserved one... So I was looking at the used model S... They're running around 50kish with 30 to 40k miles.... What are pros n cons? My main concern is how long the battery would last.. We have solar panels (we lease them, not own), we are paying 15 cents per kilowatt hour... With all the talk about tesla losing money daily, just wondering if it would be a smart buy.

    @TravAZ so I went to pep boys (after spending a lot of time searching through internet, including Amazon) and ccould not find anything with the specs 7/32 or 7/64... Ideally I'd like to use the valve stem (not sure that's what it's called) under the intake manifold with the extra ports for gauges etc... Since I couldn't find a brass fitting that has a barbed 7/64 nipple, I bought 2 of these universal reducers... I'm just gonna cut the hose that goes from the waste gate to the "valve stem", use a reducer on each end, put a piece of 7/64 hose (that came with the aem gauge) on each reducer, and then use the T fitting that came with it... So will this affect the turbo since the hose will start as 7/32, reduce down to 7/64 and then back to 7/32?

    @Garrett Taguchi try shifting as close or higher then 5500 rpms the tune is rich and the fuel system on the slingshot is not the greatest.nothing you can do about the tune thats the way bob has. when you get a gauge in if you haven't .you will see your afr reading as low as 9 when stepping on it and not what we want to really be seeing almost if the motor is flowing out you lose all power then comes right back

    That's where I've been shifting lol... Since I've had the turbo installed, I've been too scared to take it passed that.

    This info is for my turbo buddies. I have no personal experience with the supercharged slingshots.


    This is going to ruffle feathers for some. But the truth is the truth.....Soon as I ditched the factory ECU I was able red line every gear with the Haltech. I also was able to use an electronic boost controller with the Haltech.


    I have never never never never seen a turbo slingshot with a tuned ECU that would act correctly and not stumble when you bump the rev limiter and shift. AND I have never seen one that would allow a electronic boost controller to be used correctly.

    So in other words, chances are we will have to upgrade the ecu of we want to eliminate this problem... I've never hit the Rev limiter in any of my 3 setups (stock, bolt ons, turbo).. But my issue only happens with the turbo and aggressive driving... Sigh... I don't think I'm ready to fork out another grand for an upgraded ecm lol... Just gonna have to learn to live with it

    Nope, mine still does it, I try and be mindful when I shift at certain times but it still lets me know if I don't.
    Mine did it since new in pure stock setup. I wish I knew the answer but I don't. I now have built engine with smaller pulley on the SC, so a lot has been changed yet the issue is still there, so I know it's not sensors/spark plugs, Ect.... the ECM was flashed so it's not software but I do suspect the ECM still since not all have issue.

    Yea mine never did it stock, nor did it do it with the Cai, header/exhaust, Bob's tune setup..didnt happened until I installed the turbo... I've done general searches on Google and it seems it's a common issue among turbos in general.. Some say it was fixed with a tune, others say coils, others say spark plugs, injectors etc... So it seems they're might not be a real solution...i bought the aem fail safe gauge... As soon as I install it, I'll post some data logs and hopefully someone will see something... I won't know how to read it lol

    We did not take a ride... Bob was very busy, and meeting up with him was a last minute thing, so he did not have time... It happens on more or less all gears (haven't tried it from 4th to 5th)...if I'm accelerating hard, then shift gears and get right back on the throttle, it will sputter, I can almost do it on command now... Here's what rabtech said, and it makes sense:

    Yea, glad Bob got a hold of me when he did.... Guess I was too excited over a custom tune... Anyways, do u experience the sputtering? I read a thread on this forum where @rabtech mentioned that the charged air did not have enough time to discharge before accelerating on the next gear, which would have caused it to sputter.. I see that it's a common problem, so that makes me feel better... I double checked all clamps, hoses, etc...

    So I do notice the sputtering while switching into the next gear in aggressive (not redline) driving and the tc did not engage... This also did it with my friends ecu... Is this normal? It doesn't happen all the time. Also notice some loud clanks when accelerating hard, the sound is similar to the spring setting on my rear shock (but I know it's not that). I'm guessing it's my belt skipping teeth? Should I tighten the belt? Right now it's looser than factory setting because that's what a lot of people on the forums have been suggesting to avoid bearing failure...