Man... Sounds like I won't be buying anything from tricled...
Well, anything gently used...
Well, if you purchased them,or just about anything else, through Slingmods, they'll take good care of you!
Posts by Solow
-
-
Well, I just checked and I have roughly 5 volts coming out of the black box that connects to the lights. But neither the fans or the lights work. I'm not sure what the voltage is supposed to be, but at least I know it's not a fuse or my wiring that's the problem.
-
I shouldn't have looked at this thread. I was checking my lights out last night, and wouldn't you know it, both my outer led headlights are out! I have them on a separate circuit from the inner ones, so hopefully it's something other than the bulbs or black boxes. Didn't have time last might to check them out.
-
Even though it's been going on 3yrs, I thought I'd check my order history through Slingmods. After not finding my halo order with them, I remembered that I had gotten mine when there was the initial rush of aftermarket companies trying to come up with new mods for this new vehicle called the "Slingshot". I got mine directly from TricLed . Either way, I think I got a good amount of time out of them before starting to turn yellow. And it is just the two inner ones at that.
-
Yeah, my center halos are getting yellow. I just assumed that they would eventually. I ordered my Slingshot in January 2015. At the same time, I ordered the halos. Got the halos before I even had my Slingshot. My wife thought that I was a bit crazy, but having a Slingshot in the middle of winter, in northern Minnesota, I had to do something with it. Lol
-
Like @Orangeman has posted, all of your questions have been answered in different post. Most of them have been on TDS. The thing is, the majority of us have not had the light come on. If your light is on and you don't want to search the forums for the answers, why would you expect everyone else to find them for you. Pretty sure most of us don't like jumping through hoops!
-
The key is to use separate relays to power up the higher draw items, such as the air horn and seat heaters. It takes a very small amperage to trigger a relay.
-
Unless you're super skinny, you'll have to jack it up. What I did was try to gauge how much slack needed to be removed, based on how much space was between the rest pin and the e brake actuator, and remove the same amount of slack underneath. Kind of a pain to do, but you get pretty good at jacking it up, lol. There probably is an easier way to do it. But without an actual lift, It's just going to be trial and error. Plus a good amount of patience.
-
The owner himself wasn't there, but I asked him about it a few months ago. He hinted that there were bugs that needed to be worked out but he wasn't specific about it. He's had it for close to a year now, and you'd think that the "bugs" would've been worked out by now. Considering the price point and all the other tops available in the aftermarket, maybe they wised up and decided to spend their money elsewhere. Just my opinion.
-
Here is a couple of photos of the one and only Polaris top. At least as far as I know. It's one of Polaris's local engineers. We had our county fair today, and he, or his Slingshot always shows up. Mine is the front
-
Either item will work but, that fuse box looks like a lot work. You can get a fuse box that is already wired internally. I did make a mistake on my diagram. Instead of post 86 going to the battery power, it should go to the power side of the glove box outlet. On my 2015 Slingshot, it's the gray with an orange tracer. And post 85 of the relay would go to a chassis ground. Sorry, here's the new diagram; I posted both so you can see where I went wrong. The correct one is right side up
-
I'm not all artsy-fartsy, but here's a drawing of the lay out. Basically, I use the extra fuse box to run various led lights, and my led headlights which are own separate switches.
-
I used a water proof automotive relay. I tucked it up underneath the ledge behind the ecu. Kind of under the windshield to the left of the steering wheel, but in the engine compartment not the cockpit. I soldered all the connections and use marine shrink tube too. I hope I described the location good enough.
-
Display MoreI used this Blue Sea Systems marine-rated 6 circuit fuse block for $35:
It does not allow for both constant and ignition hot, but I had determined that I don't want any constant hot accessories. I kept leaving them on and killing the battery. I wired it from the glove box charging port and grounded it to the frame right above it. Sorry about the pic - my phone has been abused.
I used the exact same box in the same location as you. But as already posted, it's best to power it with a heavy gauge wire directly from the battery. If I remember correctly, I ran a wire from the battery to a relay and used the hot wire from the glove box to energize the relay only when the key is on.
-
Well, you can get caliper parts, I did. When I took the caliper apart to powder coat it, a snap ring inside was broken. I'm sure I broke it somehow, anyways, the only way to get that one frickn snap ring is to buy a kit through Polaris. It's called the ball lift, or something like that. That snap ring cost $85!!. And actually, that's only half the parts in the rear caliper. Needless to say, I treated that snap ring like it was made of gold when I reinstalled it. So who knows? Maybe it did break, or any number of things could have happened. It doesn't affect the regular brakes performance at all.
-
You have to adjust the e brake cable from below. I powdercoated my calipers this winter, and after re-assembling the calipers my e brake doesn't work very well. I've been adjusting the cable tension to see if it helps, and so far a no-go. I probably mucked something up in the rear caliper. It's such a PITA tearing the rear on apart, I may just go with no e brake.
-
I have had great success with the zerk I installed. Never took it in for the swingarm replacement because nothing ever changed with Polaris and I didn't want to do a zerk add on again if I didn't have to.
I did the grease zerk too, and have had zero issues.I didn't get my Swingarm replaced either and I don't plan on it.
-
When you receive, maybe post part numbers and others might be able to order from parts people like @FixMyToysZach?
Well I received the new/different belt guard, and checking the the number on it, came up with zip. Some friends of ours just got a new 2016 SL, with a build date of 2/16, and theirs has the same belt guard as the one I received. I looked on the parts catalog for a 2016 and sure enough, it shows one like this. So, if you wanted one I would imagine you could get one through your dealer.
In the parts catalog, it's listed as two separate pieces that have to be bought separately. Between the two pieces, it's about $46. So I don't think I over paid for the one I received. There was no shipping charges on the ebay one, but it looks like shipping as ncharges basically added to the asking price
. -
The gap between the teeth is completely open. I'd be willing to bet that there is more airflow through the teeth than through the stock grille.
-
When you receive, maybe post part numbers and others might be able to order from parts people like @FixMyToysZach?
I surely will post any numbers I find.
