Posts by MrGrey

    yea... that was my BIGGEST mistake yesterday. I left the SS running while connecting wires..


    i’ll check the voltage on all of the fuses in the fuse box later when I get home. Hopefully, it’s just the fuse. After this, I won’t do any more electrical.....


    Seeems like we have similar issue, but did you also lose signal lights and hazard? it seems kinda odd that mine went off altogether.

    I have no power to tail lights, rear fin, license plate, hazard, and signal lights, BUT i have lights in dash (no code in dash), push to start button, headlights (high and low), and fog lights in ACC mode and even when the engine is running.



    In my old setup, I have an old camera mounted to the back of the license plate bracket and I used a wire connector to tap into the positive wire from the cable that powers up the rear license plate light to power it up, and it works fine.


    I took out the old camera, mounted the new camera, and I used the same wire connector to power it up. It powers up the camera fine at first install, but I thought of connecting the camera to a reverse light instead, so it shows the guidance line when I go on reverse.


    I have the SS running, while doing all this. I took out the wire connector from the license plate light cable. I couldn’t locate the reverse light, so I gave up on connecting the camera there, so decided to move the wire connector to the same cable I have used before and hooked up the red cable from the camera.


    As soon as I secured the wire connector, I noticed my tail lights went out, but I noticed it’s very dim inside. So, I took out the cables and the wire connectors out again, turn off the engine, gave it a few minutes and turn it to ACC and see if tail lights came up, but no luck even with the engine running.


    Is there a fuse that I might have blown in the process while hooking up the red cable from the camera while the SS is running? I couldn’t see anything from the manual. I’m thinking of disconnecting the battery tomorrow and leaving it disconnected for a few minutes before trying again.


    Just want to check if anyone experience something similar before I take it to the dealer.



    I just set up this new dual dash rear view camera (AutoVOX X1 Pro) in my SS and I thought I'd share it with you guys.
    I will add more details later and put pictures on how I did the install as I have done several modifications with the help of the vendor to make it work in the SS, since this is usually a replacement for an older cars that uses rear view mirror with the bracket that attaches to the windshield.


    Here's some of the features that sold me to it.

    • STREAM MEDIA,AHD&WDR,SUPER BACKUP CAMERA WITH 3 ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY : The Stream Media dash cam will synchronously display the rear image in real time;It can present super night vision under all weather conditions with the Analogy High Definition and Wide Dynamic Range technology; Offering the best parking guard for you!
    • 9.88” FULL TOUCH SCREEN: X1-PRO Mirror Dash Cam can provide you crystal image right away with the 9.88 full screen and Dual-recording Cameras with Sony sensor. 140 wide viewing angle adjusted 1296P front camera and 720P backup camera lets you see whole road no matter in day and night,even raining day.
    • ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT LOOK with HIGH COMPATIBILITY: With the bracket, X1PRO can be anti-vibrated under various bumpy road.It matches over 97% car models.Its OEM look makes the dash cam perfectly integrate with other parts of your cars. And 8.5M video cable can be used with pick up, suv, mini car, trailer hook up and motorhome etc.
    • AUTO ADJUSTING BRIGHTNESS & REAR VIEW ANGLE: X1-PRO dash cam can automatically adjust its display’s brightness to the appropriate level for the current ambient light, ensuring your safe driving at all the time. It also can be adjusted by your finger. And it also has an advantage in automatically switching rear view angle accordingly and showing parking line with 720P resolution, eliminating any blind spot behind when parking.
    • TWO ADVANCED FEATURES: LDWS&GPS. Lane Departure Warning System will deliver an audible alarm when your car is off track or veering into another lane when your speed at above 40Mph. X1-PRO GPS tracking system records precise Speed, Direction and Route when you drive. You can play back on PC easily by the included Player.

    Setup Pics:








    Front camera set to 1298P
    Rear camera set to 780P ONLY :(


    Here's a review of the dash cam along with the video of daytime and nighttime riding.


    P.S. You might want to lower the volume since the recorded video from the dash camera is a little loud.



    Anyway, what do you guys think? :)

    Personal opinion here....I don’t think you want the alarm running off an accessory fuse box....instructions say connect directly to the battery. There could be a hardware/software conflict with the neutrinos.....a direct battery connection assures that won’t happen...it’s a pain to run that wire back there but ....
    Main hot wire from battery comes in at the top of the picture into a circuit breaker, then to hot buss (red) aux fuse box (circled) is fed from it. It’s always hot. My neutrino is also fed from the buss. There is also a ground buss on the right.

    i really like this setup, and I agree that alarm should be installed directly to the battery, but didn’t want to risk it draining the battery long term, which is why i bought the neutrino fuse box cause I thought I could control everything from there.


    One cable run, then I can program circuits any way I want and on top of that is to shutdown all device if the battery goes down certain voltage.

    Use a fuse box like the Neutrino which will allow you to set each connection to always on or Key-on. That way, you only need one connection to an Acc circuit.

    i already have a neutrino box set up. Three of those cable I have it hooked already.


    Yellow wire from neutrino -> cigarette lighter
    black wire from neutrino -> black screw
    red wire from neutrino -> positive in battery


    From my understanding, the cigarette lighter is a constant power, correct? so even if the vehicle is off, it will still be running. This is exactly what I need for the alarm, another unit im working on that also requires constant power, and the neutrino box.


    what I hope to accomplish is to simplify the cabling.


    For example, if i connect a power strip to the wall outlet, then I can hook multiple devices into that power strip, rather than one device, one outlet.

    Anyone know the max number of things that can be tap into the cigarette ignition wire?


    Right now, I have one cable that’s tapped into it which is the yellow wire from neutrino.


    I’m hooking up another device that requires ground, positive, and yellow wire for ACC. As of now, since i’m still testing it, I have that wire combined with the cable from the end of neutrino box end the popsi lock, and not tapped directly to the cigarette lighter.


    I didn’t want to run multiple wires from the cigarette wire and risk of it blowing the fuse, and wanted it to look clean.


    Now, I have a scorpio alarm that I will be hooking up, and need Acc connection too, not sure if this is safe to hook it up too using the same wire.


    Just wanted to make sure I don’t blow the fuse or anything.


    Also, I almost forgot, I have the alpha variable exhaust plugged into the cigarette port inside. I was hoping to get rid of it that connection and eventually hook it up to the neutrino black box, anyone know how to do this?

    I plan on using the factory plugs... I’ve been searching and I haven’t seen any yellow “fog”
    Lights that would work and look good on our front end.


    Has anyone ever seen the elusive factory fog lights? Or even a picture?

    you mean like this? not sure if you can see but if you look at my lower bumper, i have a DRL LED that i put yellow tiny vinyl on top. This is day time when I took the photo, but you can kinda see it. I can take another night picture and show how bright it is.