Posts by Roy658

Couldn't take the drifting and fixed it myself. The warranty repair appears to be a pointed pinch bolt to crush the outer shaft. Not very elegant but it is cheap. Did mine back at the begging og October when nobody was admitting a problem.
My apologies, thr bolt is an m8 not 6.

Quote from Nemesis1701

Does the laser alignment correct the left and right wondering or is the steering dead spot the culprit?
What has been done, what have you done to correct this issue? Can it be totally corrected?

I had about half inch of play at the steering center on my 2015. Ended up having to pull the steering shaft to correct. The upper shaft slides over the lower shaft as a means of colapse in case something slower is in the way. If you look at the shaft near the floor board you will see a collar and an adjusting bolt. The bolt on mine was incredibly tight and didn't take up any slack between the two shafts. With the shaft carefully secured to prevent movement relative to the clock spring and sensor
, unbolted and removed the shaft. Removed the adjust bolt and using a centering bit drilled a pilot hole in the upper shaft followed by a 6m hole. Then I tapped the new bore. Reassembled the two shaft pieces and reinstalled. Once bolted into place, I used a 20mm long flat bottom bolt with grease on the flat and adjusted until tight. The flat bottom bolt allows the inner shaft to move in a wreck. Once this was done, I've had no more dead spot issues. This info was given to me by lilb93 over on the other forum. He has a complete procedure written up. I have to assume that the new pointed bolt is meant to collapse the outer shaft enough to take up the slack between the shafts. As the upper shaft is 0.12 inches thick, its gonna take some real force to move.

@Ruptured Duck, I just replaced my sb with ddm. Do you need another to play with? I'm in Conyers Ga. Bar has about 9k miles and looks good

Link to a continuosly variable SC. imagine near full boost at 1000 to 1500 rpm and no waste gate. @rabtech, this should make you drool.
Variable-boost Superchargers Helps Maintain Boost

Unfortunately, you seem to be very correct Bill. They had better realize that the owners are the front line sales people. We can't stop anywhere without a tour of the bike to someone or some group! The owners alone could sink the sling with adverse publicity.

Quote from MBMedic

"inspect & replace if necessary"

I have the same quote in my letter. How does a dealership inspect and replace IF NECESSARY. Maybe use that old xray unit in the back of the shop or bring in a trained dye penetration tester? Seems like Polaris is tossing a lot of legal ramifications onto the dealers. Who is at fault if a previously inspected - and passed - swingarm fails and causes a lot of damage? Maybe they are just doing a cya to avoid a class action and are replacing all swingarms ( I hope)

@'MACAWS, you have a beautiful machine. If you don't mind, I'd like to copy your front camera mount. That was a really neat inovation. Couldn't find a way to keep my gopro stable.

Thanks to everyone for a really great time. Just rolled in from Murphy after a 3 hour drive. 2 up 3 back, go figure. I may have spent too much time trying to catch the high power crowd. Got a list of "improvements" for which to save. wife won't be thrilled, she says it reminds her of a catholic high school - Our Lady of the Perptual Upgrade. Again, thanks for the friendship, companionship, the knowledge and especially the great rides. Definitely need more power. There were a few times that I lost sight of the tail lights on that low flying white jet. Nice run rabtech!

From the select by model, it appears that every slingshot made is eligible for a swingarm. 2015 models get nuts also! (I hope it helps with acceleration) 2016 on are possible for brake seals. My 15 is listed for swingarm w/nuts and fuel line (3784, Mar 15). There is only one recall listed as a stop sale, SAF 15-01. I'm going to Murphy on the 11-12 run and will be driving the sling from Atlanta area. Its made the trip 4 other times so I'll trust it since its not listed as stop ride.

Tell em the truth @Dogs, its worse than the dragon cause half the traffic can't figure out the line in the middle and at dusk the deer declare it a pedestrian mall!

I'll meet up with @Dogs on the 10th and look forward to meeting everyone. Add another NA to the list.

Maybe look into interupting the battery wire to the starter and if really worried a second switch in the starter solenoid circuit. Sling can't be started and power is maintained to the clock and ecu. I don't know if the ecu memory is affected by prolonged power loss but my gm truck surely was.

mniron, Are those bushings inserts in the bearings?

I had the same problem with movement until mniron outlined the procedure. I had read in numerous places that you need not adjust the pivot shaft if only adjusting belt tension. Made a big difference for me but still took some effort to move. I guess that there was some corrosion in the slot.
See the pix in post #7 above. Polaris lists #2 as "Bushing, Pivot, Ball" and #18 as "Bushing, Needle, Axle". The bushings encapsulate the 2 bearings on the left side of the pivot shaft. They can't be there just for bearing retention as #3 is a retaining ring. I haven't disassembled the swingarm but the drawing makes it look like the bushings ride inside the bearings which would make them a bearing surface. Bushing 18 on the axle looks like it fits into bearing #17. If they do insert into the bearings and you have any wear on those, you can't get the sprockets parallel.

Don't know how far your dealer is from you but I would be talking to the repair tech before I pulled the shaft.

could you have a bushing thats slightly worn? That would cause the swingarm to cant slightly. Just a thought.

mniron, Thank again. Followed the outline you wrote and though not a pleasant job the result is great. Just took it for a 10 mile test and its quiet! Considering.
Couldn't find a 22mm allen anywhere so I used an M14 bolt and a couple of 22mm nuts, spot welded the thing together and it worked. They have a nice one on Amazon for 10 bucks that I ordered in case there is a next time.
Thanks for your time as this old man really needed the education.

Thank you Sir. I think I see it but will have to wait till morning so I can get under it. At least its beginning to make sense.

mniron, does the cv joint then provide the slack for movement of the angle drive? How does turning the cross shaft adjust belt position?

Thanks for the info. I bought mine used and i've been working through some problems.

Fixit, I dont know if you have seen the parts breakdown on the Polaris site. If you haven't are pix of the rt angle drive and the swingarm.

I can see the oval track in the angle drive where the swingarm shaft moves. But the only way I can see for belt position adjustment is if the shoulder on the swingarm cross shaft is not concentric and could change the angle of the swingarm???

Below are links to the polaris pages. They heve a nice zoom feature to see detail. Hope this helps cause I'm at a loss to explain that adjustment.

Parts | Polaris Slingshot Store

Parts | Polaris Slingshot Store

Belt was really tight on mine and I was finding it impossible to move the wheel assy forward. While setting the bolt torques for adjustment I had a flash. Let the sling move it. I set the adjust torques to 20 and 10 and loosened the adjuster bolt about a half turn. Backed out of the garage about 40 feet or so and did a couple of power starts, with short chirps from back tire. Back into garage and found the assy tight against the adjust bolt. I repeated again to get a lot of slack in the belt. Tomorrow I will slowly adjust to spec. I was afraid to open the adjuster too much for fear of really slamming the assy forward. Figured it was better to move in small increments. So for those needing to get some belt slack, this worked beautifully without having to beat on the sling anymore.
One other helpful tool is a $13, 25 inch breaker bar from harbor freight.