Posts by Phantomx

    I don’t know if you can add anything it would change the impedance, Factory units can be a bit finicky. If you run them in parallel it lowers the impedance and in series raises it. Your best bet to not put to much strain on the stock radio is adding an amp. It’s not very hard to do just put it under the driver seat I’ve done a few there now and it works great. The stock radio has no rear channels just left and right.

    At that point it really opens up your audio options to add side pods, rear pods, waterfall to get more into the cabin. I have a 5 channel amp that runs the under glove box, replaced the factory speakers with the Memphis audio ones and a waterfall with 2 more 6.5’ speakers. The behind the head pods are great as well.

    We now officially have our 4th slingshot we love them that much. My 2018 has taken a long journey and a stupid amount of money Here is a picture of the day I picked it up still on the lot at Cyclesprings until just recently.

    There are a lot of mods that you can't see in the pictures. Some of the major upgrades include:

    22" Rims/Tires, Stoptech big brake kit, Sway bar, Engine dress kit, CAI, Custom Tune, Header, Welter Exhaust, Twist Roof, Twist Wing, UAG Spoiler, Lite the Nite LED's, Custom Stereo with 2 6" JL Audios and all new 6.5's with waterfall, PRP Seats, NRG CF steering wheel, CF radio shade, lots of interior dress stuff, F4 Customs, LED's, Mats, and who knows what else LOL.

    Yea basically adjusts the throttle latency, makes it more responsive, you can dial it up or down to make it less or more sensitive from lazy to super twitchy. It doesn't add any more horsepower just makes it more sensitive so it will fell peppier but it's won't be any faster, WOT is still WOT throttle and it doesn't change any engine parameters. if you run across a turbo and SC Slingshot, don't race him, you'll still lose LOL.

    Personally I don't car much for all the hardware all over the place with that screen. I love the F4 windscreens personally. I've had the all the Rippers, and ridden in ones with the Nascar and the Madstad. Overall comfort the F4 is the best and its incredibly durable. I've had one on 3 slings for 4 years and it still looks great. I found it the best balance of comfort, protection, calm cockpit, etc.

    It's an update issue. They have to do an update but nobody has the tool they need to do the update. The PDI list even says to skip over it.

    You can do a few things to help for now. I had to try a few different cables but I finally found one that works consistently. When it does the radio is very very very slow to respond. You can still play music just click play on the phone. Eventually the radio will show the track on the screen but it will take a long time. I just don't use that screen. I think it's indexing your whole music library every time you plug in. Just flip to the nav screen.

    The rider screens will take a long time to load to. Just remove the radio widget from that screen, flip to Nav and flip back they'll load up faster. Just control the music from your phone for now.

    Also for Bluetooth make sure your phone is the only phone in the list, if you have more than one it just doesn't like it. There are no updates on line yet either for the 2020 only the 2019 and below.

    Worked all day. Then did mostly nothing just like yesterday and the day before, and day before and day before and wait what were we talking about. Going a bit stir crazy to be fair. I mean you can only clean the cars and slingshots so many times before they even say "DUDE go do something else".

    Yea they have to do an update but nobody has the right equipment to do it.

    However I did find a workaround. I had to go thru about 3 different cables but I got one that works. The screens will still take forever to load and you can't use the controls but if you hit play it'll play through and you can use the volume control. Eventually it will load but it takes forever.

    Also don't have more than 1 BT device. Delete them all and only put one.

    The other driver ride command screens will also take forever to load. A workaround for that is to take the radio widget off the screens put anything else on but that. If you hit the nav button the map will show then hit the button to show the ride command widgets and they will load up.

    Eventually the radio screen will load and you can see your tracks but it takes forever. I think it's indexing all the music on your phone every time you plug in.

    So my wife was a driving the 2020 today and I was on my Triumph Bobber. We came to stop sign to make a right, my buddy up front took off but there wasn’t enough room for me to get her and I out, I stopped, she was looking left and thought I went, hit the gas realized I was still there and jammed the brakes. Now to be clear this was entirely her fault so I’m not blaming the SS, but it probably wouldn’t have happened the way it did or as hard as it did if the autodrive hadn’t bucked. She bumped into my rear tire and pushed me over and I fell down on top of the bike,

    The challenge with the Autodrive is on quick gas/brake or even just slowing down the system bucks a little bit. It can’t move as fast with the clutch in/out as say a DCT would. So when she jumped on the brake the SS bucked, jumped forward and right into me. Yes she was too close to me had she been a few feet back and paying more attention she would have stopped in time, but she’s still learning the SS and it’s a little clumsy on the start stop type scenarios. The combo of the two put me on my ass.

    Damage. Well me and my buddy were able to disassemble the front end somewhat, find all the brackets that were bent, remove them, bang them straight again and then with our trusty tape measure get everything back into spec. the only issue now is one of the tabs is broken on the passenger piece below the headlight (the black/blue part that connects to the lower spoiler) and the hood panel has a couple scratches and gouges. Some gonna try to order those new panels and just replace them and it should look as if nothing happened to it. It did push the passenger front corner up and back about 2” and bent a bunch of little brackets. We got that sorted pretty well though.

    The Bobber thankfully I had crash bars on it or it would have really been screwed up. It needs both brake levers, a mirror and some paint touch up on the exhaust and crash bar (which we had to bend back into shape). Overall it coulda been much worse. I’m a little scraped up but nothing big and thank God for helmets. A big scratch mark in the back shows where i would have smashed my head on the ground. I know my head hit the ground but with my helmet on I never actually felt it at all.

    One takeaway I would say for anyone with the automatic is give your self some room in front of you, this thing kinda bucks and jumps when coming to a stop, it’s not as smooth as a DCT or regular automatic or even as smooth as someone who’s experienced driving a stick. it’s a little clumsy and bucks around a bit so give yourself a few extra feet just to be safe...

    A couple pics

    Most decent half tons these days can tow 11-12k lbs. That would be no issue. I tow an 8.5 x 16 enclosed trailer with my Raptor with no issues and total weight is over 5000lbs loaded. Aside from the gas mileage sucking you barely know it’s back there.

    Pick up a 7x14 (if all your towing is the SS) utility trailer. They have a 3500lb floor rating, plenty of places to strap too you should be able to drive right up the gate into the back. I had one and worked a treat. they are pretty inexpensive and can be had anywhere and they weigh <1000 lbs empty. I used to back the truck up on some of those rhino ramps to tilt the trailer up to give me plenty of room to drive the SS up on it. Actually that’s the trailer I used to tow my first SS to the First Maggie Valley show. They key is make sure it’s wide enough for the front end which if I recall is 79” wide. 7’ wide (if the wheel wells are on the outside) should be fine. They are also more common.

    I like towing. Doesn’t matter what crappy weather you encounter going up and back, half the time it’s raining all the way home for some reason so for me it’s nice. Plus you can take all the extra stuff you want to take with you and you have plenty of space, We do also drive our SS long distance as well, I have packed it for weeklong trips, with a little planning and the bags it’s doable. It’s just easier with towing it. I can bring extra tools, cleaning supplies, extra gear for any weird weather, it’s just convenient. I’m currently selling my enclosed trailer so I can get a 8x24 flatbed to tow both our Slings at the same time. I thought about a 24’ enclosed but it starts to get over 7000lbs and the Raptor is rated for 8000lbs. It’ll do it though. TFL trucks did a 100 mile loop with a 20’ with 7000lbs with no issues on the new Raptor.

    I thought there was something with the transmission where you couldn’t tow it on a dolly??