Posts by Gadgeteer

    My rattle happens when I let off the gas at low speeds, almost like a hiss, loud when I first let off the gas, only lasting about a second or two, gradually getting quieter. Very consistent. The sound comes from inside the muffler, nothing loose on the outside, everything that I can see and touch is nice and snug. Very annoying, but I love the overall sound, so I don't want to change it, just want to fix the rattle. I guess I may just have to take off the variable controller part and have a peek around in there, but that makes me a little nervous, without knowing exactly what I'm looking for, or if I need to align something to put it back together.

    Being a part time ninja, I vote for the smoke screen. 8)

    Coincidentally, I'm getting my stock muffler replaced this week for the same reason. Rattles as engine drops to idle, especially before things warm up. I thought it was the heat shield rattling against the muffler but after a thorough inspection the dealer determined it was inside. Probably a broken weld on a baffle is my guess.


    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

    I turned away from religion a long time ago but there are still times, like this, when I have to ask myself, "What would Jesus do?" Unfortunately, I'm still on the fence so let's... go to the polls!


    Well crap on a biscuit... the poll I added to my post only shows up in a web browser and isn't visible on Tapatalk or the forum app. At least not the Android version. :(


    So far, I'm pretty disappointed with how limiting both of them are. Dag nabbit! Well, I'm counting on y'all to offer some guidance, so if you're getting your fix via either app, switch to the browser for minute and check out the poll! Thx!


    Sent from my Nexus 6P

    That was my very first post in this thread because there are no other witnesses...the computer can’t lie..and I feel that info is critical...if it’s there or if it’s not. If it was mine I would surely want to know what’s on it.


    I turned away from religion a long time ago but there are still times, like this, when I have to ask myself, "What would Jesus do?" Unfortunately, I'm still on the fence so let's... go to the polls!

    If you look at your drake disc, you should see a small lip on the axle inside the circle formed by the lug bolts. That lip should be the same diameter as the opening in the center of the wheel and aligns the wheel with the axle, ensuring the wheel is properly centered so it will roll smoothly. Hub-centric rings are used when a wheel has a center opening larger than the lip on the axle and match the center hole diameter of the wheel, securely holding the wheel centered against the axle. While it IS possible to mount wheels w/o using hub-centric rings, it is not advisable as you are then relying solely on the lug nuts to keep the wheel tightly centered to the brake disc instead of the axle and it is possible for the wheel to be mounted slightly off-center with respect to the axle and may cause noticeable vibration as you drive.

    I also would not recommend mounting a wheel with a smaller center opening than the lip on the brake drum as that can result in a wheel which is not securely mounted flat against the brake disc with the wheel being held against the edge of the lip instead of making uniform contact with the surface of the brake disc, possibly introducing undesirable handling impacts.

    Thanks! I was wondering about it and hoping I wouldn't have to look it up! :thumbup:


    As surprising as it may be to some, I freely admit that I don't know EVERYTHING. ;)


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    Since I never said it before now, I too am glad that @aznative75 is well and no other vehicles or people came to any harm. I know all too well how it feels to have a tree that lives a boring and sedentary life take out its frustrations on your Slingshot. I could swear at the time of my accident, my tree bore a sadistic grin of satisfaction and wielded a menacing looking ice ray-gun, but no sign of weapon or sentience could be found after the crash. ;)


    Also, despite my uh,... monologue(?)... related to statistics and odds, I agree there may be some value to checking the logs for possible error codes. I don't think a full forensic dissection of the vehicle would be of much help, but if an electronic system threw an error, that should show up. @Red makes a valid point about the lack of time stamps leaving too much room for speculation on causality coinciding with the time of the accident. At the same time, I agree with @aznative75 and @Bigdog that there may be some solace in knowing if there was something tangible that might have been a contributing factor. It probably won't be the proverbial "smoking gun", but it may be helpful in some other way, even if only to provide a sense of validation. That alone may be worth the expense to have it checked and I see no reason or need to involve the insurance and I doubt they would intervene anyway. However, if the factory intervened, that would be another story. On that, I'm sure we can all agree.


    Having gone through the post-accident process myself, I can offer a piece of advice/insight. If you are going to have the dealer try to pull codes from the vehicle, call them on the phone right now, tell them to do it immediately (or as soon as humanly possible) and have them bill you directly, just like they would if they were changing your oil. Why the urgency? Because you still own the vehicle and you call the shots. Not the factory and not the insurance company. I cannot stress this enough. You had it towed, to the location of your choice, and you are responsible for the bills that the insurance company doesn't pay on your behalf. When you settle with the insurance company, they are literally buying your busted vehicle from you and paying you the value written on the check. If you accept, you have sold your ownership and any rights or interests attached to it. Until then, if anyone says they are not allowed to pull the codes or share certain information about the vehicle with you, they need to be reminded that it is your vehicle and the bills are in your name. Neither the insurance company nor the factory has the authority to override your request as long as you are the registered owner. Act now, while you still can and before any "evidence" might get lost. I don't know if a dead/disconnected battery would reset the code logs, but why take the chance? Get what info you can, while you can.


    Sick'em Kujo! 8o

    No kidding I was just finishing up the last line and POW @Gadgeteer had already hit send.



    Sent from my iPad using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app

    Sorry to steal it, but you gotta admit that if I picked up on it, it was a little too easy. I just wish I had picked up on it before I submitted.


    Don't worry, I am sure it won't be too long before I serve up another. When I do, I'll be sure to let you guys have the first swing. :thumbup:


    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

    Based on your expert opinion from hundreds of miles away? I'm simply trying to eliminate ANY mechanical problems since that's probably the easiest thing to determine since it's objective.


    Um, no... not based on my expert opinion... but nice that you think I'm an expert! (See? I can be sarcastic too. :D )


    No, based on real statistical odds which, I (mistakenly) assumed are common knowledge. To remedy that mistake, I offer the following excerpt from an article posted by The Center for Internet and Society at Stanford Law School (Human error as a cause of vehicle crashes | Center for Internet and Society)


    • (1) The most thorough analysis of crash causation, the Tri-Level Study of the Causes of Traffic Accidents published in 1979, found that "human errors and deficiencies" were a definite or probable cause in 90-93% of the incidents examined. The executive summary is here (see vii), and the two-part final report is here and here. The study continues to be cited, and the Venn diagram on this page provides a useful summary.
    • (2) A UK study published in 1980 (summarized here at 88-89) likewise identifies driver error, pedestrian error, or impairment as the "main contributory factor[]" in 95% of the crashes examined.
    • (3) Another US study published in 2001 (available here) found that “a driver behavioral error caused or contributed to” 99% of the crashes investigated.
    • (4) An annual UK crash report (available here with updated data here in table RAS50002) identifies 78 potential contributing factors, most of which suggest human error. However, multiple factors were recorded for some crashes, and none were recorded for others.
    • (5) NHTSA’s 2008 National Motor Vehicle Crash Causation Survey is probably the primary source for the common assertion by NHTSA officials that “[h]uman error is the critical reason for 93% of crashes” (at least if “human error” and “driver error” are conflated). The 93% figure is absent from the report itself (probably intentionally) but calculable from the totals given on page 24.


    So, as I said, THE ODDS favor driver error. I was not criticizing you or your driving ability and I was not offering an opinion, expert or otherwise. Since we have nothing to go on other than speculation, I was only stating that the odds favored driver error, not mechanical failure. Perhaps something did fail. Perhaps you couldn't turn away from the tree because the wheel linkage had already started to fall apart and the tree just finished the job. Perhaps, perhaps, perhaps... All speculation. However, as you stated from the beginning...

    Tried to get it under control but my main concern was to avoid rolling and not hitting other vehicles. Ended up going off the highway and into a tree. Luckily, I did not hit any other vehicles and no one hit me as I swerved across traffic.

    ...so we have to assume you had some degree of control and the steering was working before you went off the road. Again, that is just speculation. You seem pretty convinced that you did nothing wrong when, if you really think about it, you probably did. Whatever happened to initiate the wheel slip is not the cause of the accident. The failure of the traction control, assuming it did fail, or the failure of any other safety system, is not the cause of the accident either. These systems only assist the driver's recovery efforts; they are not responsible for making recovery efforts for the driver.


    So, like the statistical majority of all the other accidents that have been reported in the past 30+ years, both here and in other countries, the most likely cause of the accident (failure to avoid hitting the tree) was driver error. There's no shame in it. Obviously, you're not the only one. In fact, I've been in my fair share of accidents and I know there were things I failed to do to prevent it from happening because I wasn't expecting something to go wrong. That's how accidents happen. Also, it doesn't matter if something mechanical failed.


    Years ago, I actually saw a guy in a 2-seat convertible roadster (1970's MG, I think) lose his rear wheel while driving in the third lane of a four lane highway. The lugs nuts scattered across the road and the entire wheel shot up a good 15ft. and went bouncing down the road to parts unknown. Somehow, the guy knew he was in trouble but still had the presence of mind to hit his turn signal and steer gently across 3 lanes of highway traffic and bring the car to a stop on the shoulder. We pulled up behind him as he jumped out and ran around to see what had happened, saw the wheel was not there, then broke down and cried his eyes out. He maintained control and didn't hit anyone or anything. Coincidentally, neither did the flying wheel. He didn't have any nanny systems helping him either. Maybe God was with him, but the rag top was down and I didn't see anyone else in the car.


    In contrast, my own brother, a veteran motorcycle rider and certified motorcycle safety instructor for 19 yrs., fatally crashed his motorcycle and after assessing the damage to the bike I found there was no mechanical failure of any kind. Except for a bunch of dents, scrapes, bent handle bars and rims, everything was in working order. I searched the road for something he might have slipped on and, like you, I found nothing. It was warm, no rain, no traffic that we know of (a passing driver noticed the bike's headlight shining out of the woods onto the road and stopped to check it out), no solid evidence of anything that would cause him to lose control. It could have been a deer in the road because that area was know for such, but we'll never know for sure. The only thing I do know for sure is that something went wrong and he couldn't recover it. He laid the bike down, it slid off the road, and before he could get clear of the bike, the tires hit a root which launched both him and the his Harley Road King into the air and into the trees. I put the chain of event together based on the skid marks and the path of destruction the bike made from the time it left the pavement until it tumbled up against a tree, standing on its tires with its headlight casting its beam out toward the road. If not for the root, he might have had a chance but he had already made too many errors and his luck ran out.


    Driver (rider, in this case) error was the cause of the actual accident. Was the guy that lost his car wheel lucky? You bet your bippy he was. But he managed to get the car safely off the road because he did not make a single error. Everything he did was deliberate, smooth, and perfectly executed. Was it skill or instinct? Don't know and it doesn't matter. He was the one driving so he gets all the credit. My brother was the one driving the bike so he gets all the credit too. It doesn't matter if the Slingshot's Traction Control failed, what matters is that as the driver, you failed to control the vehicle before it hit that tree. That was the accident, accidents happen, and they happen to newbies as well as skilled drivers (ever watch a NASCAR race?).


    So, although you didn't ask for it, THAT is my informed (not expert) opinion on the matter. Unless there is some evidence that there was no possible way of avoiding that tree and that there was absolutely nothing you could have done differently to change the final outcome, driver error played a large part in the whole thing, whether you realize it or not. If it makes you feel any better, the odds are that at least 90% (probably more) of the other drivers that wrecked their Slingshots screwed up too, including me. Welcome to the club. :thumbup:

    Have not had any problems, anything I can do as preventive maintenance before it cracks???

    You could have it analyzed for weaknesses, mirco-fractures, or other signs of potential failure, then fab and weld reinforcing material around suspect areas. Unfortunately, I have no idea how much that would cost or where to get it done. The only other thing you can do to ensure it doesn't crack is to stop using it and install something else which would probably be a lot less hassle.


    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

    Don't think I have seen that said about the shocks before. But makes sense when you think about it. Thanks!


    Really don't want to spend close to 1k for shocks. Any suggestions in the under $500 range that would be a major inprovment from the O.E.M shocks?


    Have not done research on our shocks. Are they sub-standard for our application?

    I had forgotten about the technique until we were at Summit Point for Track Day last spring and @Jdin said he used it to recover from sliding out of a tight turn. Except for his tires (G-max AS-05's and a g-Force Comp2 A/S on the rear) he, he was running all stock, so yes, the factory shocks and other suspension components can handle it with no problem.


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