Posts by McClendons

I would loosen the passengers cable slightly, which will bring the passenger and drivers more in line. Will probably see a little more movement in the handle

My hood lever from factory (or dealer prep) was incredibly tight. The handle would barely move at all, and I felt I was going to break it. After the recall work, in which they must have removed hood, it would not even open.

After looking at the situation, I found the passenger cable to the latch was VERY tight. What I did.

Raise hood, and push each of the 4 latches closed....front first as the back triggers off the front. I then slowly pushed the lever, (multiple times thru process) to watch when the latches released. I loosened the cables until the hood latch handle would pivot about a third a way through its range. From stock, would barely move. I then adjusted both sides to trigger at the same time. Once the fronts triggered at same time, with good rotation on the release lever, I checked the back two to make sure they triggered at same time as front....both did.

Hood is now very easy to open, with little pressure required. By having the cables too tight, the mechanism does not rotate, and therefore you have very little to no leverage. No idea why the factory adjusted that way. Whole process took me 20-30 minutes, most of which was reviewing how the latch works, and determining the cables were too tight...not loose.

Quote from slingmods

Who all would be interested in a group buy and I can contact them and see where we stand! I know with @rabtech harness it took a little longer than originally expected but I can see where they stand with them and the stock of that harness..

I would be in for a t harness. Hoping to get one very soon.

Quote from MACAWS

What ever happened to the group buy for the T harness?

Agree. I am going to order one myself.

Quote from Rob the Slob

@McClendons, I had to remove the 2 forward studs on mine. I watched SlingShot Only install headers at the Hill Country event and none of the ones I saw needed to have the studs removed. So I would say it is the luck of the draw. It's not hard to pull them though.

Rob, Were the posts locktited in, or were they easy to undo with a torx socket? Read about broken studs and it scared me........

I have a 1320 header being delivered tomorrow, along with the Welter Stealth exhaust. Does anybody have a link (working) the 1320 header install that is on SlingMods? The SlingMods link seems broken.

My header is the non turbo, and I am trying to understand if I will need to pull the studs. Seems allot of conflicting info in all the posts I've found.

Thanks

Quote from Joker256

Just talked to Ed at Guard Dawg. They do have the T harness in stock right now. $70.
BUT, he said that if there are several people that want it, he can do a Group Buy for the forum and bring the price down some If you guys are interested.

Also, about the remote start:
They don't reveal to the public how they do it due to security reasons, but, here are the steps to getting it done. (They have after hours support for this as well)

If you bought it directly from them, You scan your drivers license and sent it to them, they verify it in their system.
They also require a credit card for further verification and charge $1 to verify it and then refund you the $1.
And then they will do their Super Secret Process. (A 5 minute process)

If you purchased it through a vendor like Slingmods, they don't have your information.
So the steps are the same, BUT, they have to verify your purchase with the selling vendor.
Now, if this happens outside of the vendors business hours, you would have to wait until they are open to verify the info.

(Personally, I think the Secret Process involves Flying Monkeys bring you a code, but he wouldn't confirm that)

Hope this helps!

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I'm in for one of the T harnesses, especially if the rice drops a little due to group buy. Would like to pull trigger in a week or so. Thanks for the idea, hope others come on board

For mcclendons, pls make mine a 5k as well. Thx

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If you were able to get a significant discount for a group buy, I would be in. Undecided if I would go the small or medium.

Quote from angie@WP

We installed several at the Texas show. All happy customers
30 day money back guarantee if it's not all you hoped it would be IF PURCHASED DIRECTLY THROUGH US. Give me a call 1-877-455-3089
-Angie

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Angie, Are you going to be at any shows in central FL area? The install looks pretty easy, but without a lift would require allot of sliding on the floor under jack stands......

Also, do you advise the Stealth vs the saddlebag for one with Corbins? I like the look of the stealth, just not sure if anything changes with the bags. Thanks

Has anyone put one of these on yet? If so, how significant are the fumes?

I have the saddlebags, and am really interested in a header and exhaust. Just afraid that the fumes will collect in the void under the tail *with the saddlebags holding them in), and the fumes will be problematic.

Thanks for any inputs

Quote from slingmods

Hey guys,

heard back from the MFG and the T harness is an extra $70 and its currently on a back order of about 4-6 weeks they say..

Expensive, but will take one when available. Please post when you have them...

Quote from jluna317

I believe the factory camera is made to work with polaris's factory system which is integrated in to the can bus from my understanding. So the factory camera would have came with a little plug and not naked wires for u to tie into. That plug would then plug into the harness that's back there under the fin somewhere but u having a base model not sure u would have the harness or not I beleieve it comes with the whole infotainment setup. Not sure .so if u are wiring the camera it self to the radio I don't see how. Did u splice open a video cable and plug it in to the back of your Pioneer stereo . I don't think you will be able to see video like that .thats not how the after market radio will work. If the radio doesn't know it's a video feed how's it's suppose to display it. You need video wire coming from camera to head unit

The slingmods kit plugs into the harness for the camera, even the base models have the harness. You just need to add the camera and an aftermarket headunit (supposedly) The harness has the right connectors to convert the base camera/harness to an rca connection.

I used an aftermarket camera, so just ran the rca myself. Probably could have cut into the harness and soldered on rca connectors, would not have been worth the trouble, and the harness was not available at the time.. Probably something simple, but I can't picture it....

Quote from Mmahoney79

Hi!

Yes I did. Spoke with the harness manufacturer and got a question for you?

Is your sling a SL or one that came with a camera? This seems to be my issue. I have a base and purchased the slingmods kits and an oem camera. I am told their lies my problem. Not sure how or why, but that's what I'm being told.

Mike

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Mine is a base, but I did not use the harness. Ran an rca cable myself.

I aasume your stereo is mounted, but in case you still have access to back....Do you have access to anything with an RCA video out. Could be a laptop, portable DVD player etc. If so, I would try to run the video from that output to the same plug on the pioneer (backup camera in). Put in reverse, and if you get video, that would indicate something in the harness or oem camera is off. If you still do not get video, would likely tell me a setting in the pioneer. I mentioned a couple of other things to check on the other site (camera ouput type etc). I had to toggle a couple of settings....

I replied on the other site. First two things to check: !. Did you plug backup into the brown yellow connector, or the bright yellow. The bright is video in, not backup. Second, go to the radio settings for camera, my 4200 had the backup turned off from the box. Good luck

Very Nice!!!! That color and the blue/white are both gorgeous. Now the fun starts (breaking your bank account for mods.......)

Agree on the kit fly buddy mentioned, although I used a different Pioneer.

I tried the Clarion CMS5 first. It lasted about 8 months, then the knob started acting up. Specifically, when I turned the know, channels in the amp with get static or shut down. I thought it was an amp issue, so replaced amps ---problem stayed as bad or worse. Did a little research, and others had the problem or more. I swapped to the pioneer. I now have to careful about rain, but it works 100% better. Very Happy.

Based on above, I can't advise the Clarion. In addition to what I mention, it takes FOREVER to boot up, making the backup camera useless. Menus are slow to respond, and the way it interfaced with my iPod was flaky at best. I might have just had a bad unity, but I bought it when it was $800......not happy.

Have not seen the JL, but they build good product.

Quote from slingmods

Yes. The mfg removed this in an effort to bring the retail cost of the unit down. We can still get the "T" harness for you if you'd like. This will also allow you normal operation of the "keyed" ignition.

Slingmods, I would like to get the T Harness, did not know that was an option. What do I need to do, and how much? Thanks

That looks amazing..... Maybe Honda (instead of Polaris) powered in 18..... What a great job.

It is $370 to $820 depending on speaker selection and if you get an amp. On their page, select "Services", then audio, then scroll down to slingshot. They have several things there.